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Problem with Head lights

Started by ray230, February 15, 2016, 06:46:45 PM

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ray230

I am fighting a nagging problem of the headlights randomly going out and back on. Need a little help finding the issue. I will try to go through what I've done so far.

It started 2 years ago when the ammeter smoked its self. I had a restoration shop install a new dash and engine harness. This included a full restoration of the gauges, dash panel and a new head light switch. We eliminated the ammeter and replaced with a volt meter too. After this everything else is working fine, except this issue with the head lights. They seem to go out more when the high beams are on, but will go out both ways.

I don't drive the car much at night so I have been slow to get this fixed. This winter I have been working on it and replaced the front lighting harness and dimmer switch. I also made a bare metal ground area for the front harness ground wires. I thought that would fix it because I found some corrosion in the old harness. But it is still there. Since it is winter my testing is with the car not running ad just sitting in the garage. No other lights are effected, not dash or rear. Only headlights and high beam light on the dash if on high.

Testing today I was able to determine that when the lights go out, there is no power to the center L2-16LGN to the dimmer switch. That traces back to the top wire connected to the headlamp switch. Could it be a bad switch? All other lights controlled by that switch work fine. Also what would cause it to be random?  Moving the wires with the lights on does not cause them to go out so I don't think it is a connection.

I am scratching my head. Thanks for any help you can give.

birdsandbees

Mine did that back as a kid in '80 or so... firewall terminal block. Find the right wires and give the connection a good push together.
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

A383Wing

if lights are going out and then back on...sounds like the circuit breaker inside the switch is tripping the power...bad switch is my guess....

I would also consider installing the headlight relay upgrade also

someone here will post the picture or link of relay diagram

ray230

Birdsandbees

I was thinking the block too, but how could it be the block if I am losing power at the dimmer before power goes through the block?
I looked and don't think I can get to the block without removing the HVAC box. Is that right?

ray230

Quote from: A383Wing on February 15, 2016, 07:40:41 PM
if lights are going out and then back on...sounds like the circuit breaker inside the switch is tripping the power...bad switch is my guess....

I would also consider installing the headlight relay upgrade also

someone here will post the picture or link of relay diagram

A383
I hate to think the new switch is bad, but it sounds like that might be the case. Bad from day one when the dash was restored. Can you buy the circuit breaker or just another new switch?

The relay sounds interesting, hopefully someone will post. Thanks

Dino

Your foot switch could also be the culprit.  Check all connections and while you're at it check all the wiring.  The new switch could definitely be at fault here by the way.

Here's a diagram on how to the the upgrade, it's very easy to do.  Instead of the fuses I run power straight from the battery through a circuit breaker.  Just make sure to have something close to your power source to keep the wiring safe.  And don't run both low and high beam through a single relay because if it goes you won't have any lights.  When one of two relays pop you'll at least have one or the other to get you home safely.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

A383Wing

you cannot buy just the circuit breaker...you must buy a new switch....any warranty on the one you already got? Was it a "new" switch?

I have never seen a foot switch toggle the power on and off to the lights...but it's easy to check...use a test light on the green middle wire when lights go off, if no power at green wire, then problem is likely the headlight switch...if you do have power at the dimmer switch, test the other wires at the switch, one should have power and the other will not....

Dino

Sorry, bad wording on my part.  I meant the power wire connector going to the foot switch may be loose or corroded.  It's worth a look.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

ray230

Quote from: A383Wing on February 15, 2016, 08:42:25 PM
you cannot buy just the circuit breaker...you must buy a new switch....any warranty on the one you already got? Was it a "new" switch?

I have never seen a foot switch toggle the power on and off to the lights...but it's easy to check...use a test light on the green middle wire when lights go off, if no power at green wire, then problem is likely the headlight switch...if you do have power at the dimmer switch, test the other wires at the switch, one should have power and the other will not....

Yes, that is how I narrowed it down. With lights on power coming in to the dimmer through the green center wire. If on low beams there is also power to the bottom wire, L4-16V, going out to the firewall. If on high beam its center green and top red , L3-16R, wires that are hot. When the lights go out there is no power to the green coming. Sounds like the switch then.

The switch was a "new" reproduction. Not sure of the supplier. Since its been 2 years I'm sure no warranty now.

Where is the best place to get a new switch? Any suppliers better than another?

Thanks

A383Wing

what I did with mine is I took the switch apart and soldered the circuit breaker together, then put the switch back together. I used an external circuit breaker in the headlight circuit to take the place of the internal one...I did this because I could not find decent new or used one back in the 90's when we were putting the car together.....

And the relay mod is next for me, that will take the load off the switch, foot switch, and the bulkhead connections