Ignition 1, ignition 2

[flyinlow]

Not  sure what the door looks and windows pull amp wise. I just made a guess at 10 amps for discussion.  The windows and door locks are an intermentant load so you can use a smaller gauge wire if you want. A 10 gauge wire is a heavier wire than the stock alternator charging wire was. Having a heavier wire is fine as long as it is fuse or breaker protected.

How does the window up function of arming the alarm know when the windows are fully up and stop trying to raise them?

[Dino]

The window modules that intercept the stock power window wires have built in relays and resistors. Once the module senses an increase in load, such as hitting the end of travel or a hand in the way, it stops the window. There are also dip switches on the side to fine tune the resistors themselves as the old inefficient motors can prematurely stop the window as well. The modules also turn the stock window switches into one-touch switches.

[flyinlow]

 

Lots of 12vdc wire current charts online. 16 gauge handles a lot of jobs.

[Dino]

Yeah, I have to figure out how long the wires will be. 16 gauge wires would help to actually run them. A dozen of 10 gauge wires becomes quite the bundle!

[cdr]

i would use circuit breakers for the power windows, the factory did on most. 

[Dino]

Yes the stock wiring has a circuit breaker and a relay going to the ignition. I was told I didn't need to hook up the stock power wire since these modules now provide power. If I do however I'll be using a circuit breaker.

[Dino]

I'm looking at the alarm's wiring harness and I need to know what size fuses to use. I want to mount a fuse block with a common power wire near the battery where all the power wires can run to.

The power wire for the alarm has a 15 amp fuse on it to protect the module. If I extend the wire to a fuse block near the battery with a 10 awg wire then what size fuse does it need? Also 15 amps? More or less?

The wire that feeds the parking lights has a 10 amp fuse on it and it'll be going to a relay. What size fuse and wire to power that relay? 15A and 16 awg or same gauge as the alarm's wire? I was told I can have 15 amp fuses protect each of the relays I'll be running.

The wire that powers the remote starter has a 30 amp fuse protecting that module. Same question here, what size fuse on the 10 awg wire running to the fuse block?

The window modules are each protected by a 20 amp fuse and I'm also going to run 10 awg wire to the fuse block. Do I simply use the same value fuse there?

So assuming the fuses on the power wires have the same values as the ones protecting the modules, and 15 amp fuses for each relay I get to a total of 175 amps. Now those will never be running at the same time so would it be alright to get something like this? It has 12 slots for fuses and a stud for a common power wire. Max capacity is 105 amps.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/bussmann-ganged-fuse-panel-12-position.html

I may look for something else, I'm not sure where to mount it yet. But this is just to get an idea. I may try to mount it under the battery but the vacuum can might be in the way.

Edit: I just looked and I have barely 1.5" between the bottom of the tray and the vacuum can so that's out. I'll see if I can mount it on the rad frame near the headlight mod relays.   

[Pete in NH]

Hi  Dino,

Use the fuse value suggested my the individual manufacturers of the modules. That fuse block will be okay, as you say you will never have everything powered up at the same time.


Wire size and fuse rating are sometimes closely linked but not always. For example, in house wiring a 10 gauge wire would be protected by code with a 30 amp breaker or fuse. This accounts for the possible wire temperature with 30 amps with wires that are buried in wall insulation and can not really cool themselves in surrounding air. In a car, a 10 gauge wire could safely handle 40 to 50 amps. I might warm up a bit but, no big deal. I would fuse a 10 gauge at 40 amps and never worry about it.

What you are doing is using a heavy wire to minimize voltage drops to your modules. In this case you want to size the fuses to protect the module not the wire.

[Dino]

Thanks Pete that makes perfect sense.

Do you think it would be okay to run 16 gauge power wires with 15 amp fuses to each relay? The relays will trigger the door and trunk locks. Turns out I don't need to relay the ground when armed ouput and the wire for the parking lamps comes with a 10 amp fuse so I may not need one there either.

[Pete in NH]

Thanks Pete that makes perfect sense.

Do you think it would be okay to run 16 gauge power wires with 15 amp fuses to each relay? The relays will trigger the door and trunk locks. Turns out I don't need to relay the ground when armed ouput and the wire for the parking lamps comes with a 10 amp fuse so I may not need one there either.

I'm not sure I quite understand the question. But, if you are talking about using 16 gauge wire on the relay control coils, I would fuse them very lightly, something like 3/4 amp for each relay coil.

[Dino]

Thanks Pete that makes perfect sense.

Do you think it would be okay to run 16 gauge power wires with 15 amp fuses to each relay? The relays will trigger the door and trunk locks. Turns out I don't need to relay the ground when armed ouput and the wire for the parking lamps comes with a 10 amp fuse so I may not need one there either.

I'm not sure I quite understand the question. But, if you are talking about using 16 gauge wire on the relay control coils, I would fuse them very lightly, something like 3/4 amp for each relay coil.

I need to run a power wire from each relay to the new fuse box near the battery. It's probably a 5-6 foot run so I figured 16 gauge would be alright.

[flyinlow]

16 gauge wire, 15amp fuse , 6ft. run, intermittent use will be fine.

You can use smaller wires for the control side of the relay....like 22 gauge for about a one amp load.

You can use 10 gauge wire for everything if you want , but you will feel bad when a Prius smokes you at a traffic light because you Charger weighs 6000 lbs.

[Dino]

 

Yeah I would feel pretty bad!

The problem is that I have no clue what the amp draw on these locks are. The trunk lock is out of an 80's Diplomat. The door locks are aftermarket actuators. I can run 18 gauge with a 10 amp fuse or less as long as it's enough. But to me this is a guessing game which is why I'm bugging you guys.   

[Pete in NH]

16 gauge wire, 15amp fuse , 6ft. run, intermittent use will be fine.

You can use smaller wires for the control side of the relay....like 22 gauge for about a one amp load.

You can use 10 gauge wire for everything if you want , but you will feel bad when a Prius smokes you at a traffic light because you Charger weighs 6000 lbs.

I agree, 16 gauge fused at 15 amps will be fine.

[Dino]

Great! Thanks guys. 

I ordered a 10 gang fuse box with cover and led indicators for blown fuses, relays & connectors, and some odds and ends. I should have everything late next week so I'll be back with more questions I'm sure.   

[frank1966]

I put in a new ign switch, I tested the leads coming off the switch, IGN 2 only has 10V when the key is in start. All other leads show 12V in ACC, Start and Run. IF that is a bypass to supply 12V why iam I reading 10v at the switch?

[flyinlow]

Is the starter cranking the engine when you read 10 volts?

[frank1966]

Yes, 12V on the yellow lead, strange right?

[flyinlow]

Yes, 12V on the yellow lead, strange right?

zxs


Maybe  not.  The whole electrical system voltage drops when cranking the engine.

Put the car in drive (so the starter won't crank, assuming your neutral safety switch works)  read the voltage in with the key in the start position with out the starter draw down.

[igozumn]

Yep.  Normal. 

[Dino]

Well I did it again...I have confused myself. I swear it's my super power...

I have two wires coming off the remote starter; one is supposed to go to ignition 1 and one to ignition 2. However since ignition 1 and 2 are joined then I should be able to ignore the hookup for ignition 2 right?

Now, I have tied the brown and blue wires together at the bulkhead connector. The wires are still individual from the ignition switch to the BH connector. Once there they are joined into a single packard connector in the BH.

Here's where I got confused: do I still splice both remote start wires to the brown and blue or is one going to be reduntand since brown and blue are joined down the line? Would it hurt if I spliced both?
If I hook up only the ignition 1 remote starter wire then can I just pick either brown or blue or is this not going to work because I'm splicing into the wire before the spot where they join?

Help...

[b5blue]

  I don't really know but think for your add on stuff the confusion starts from similar number and function labels that are not equivalent.  Ign. 1 and Ign.2 in the kit could be Ign. on and Ign. cranking...while on the car the same ID. is only to the coil. I've wired navigation systems for the USAF, Houseboats, Homes and condos, built elevator control panels, factory and industrial equipment and even fixed the legendary British sports cars but you've got me stumped. 
  You need to make a wiring diagram and include schematics for each sub set of add on accessory. Then create an interface to Charger diagram or later your screwed if anything acts up.       

[John_Kunkel]

Problems with the separate ignition systems has been discussed before; for any apparatus that needs ignition power in both Start and Run, the diagram below using a ISO relay will provide constant ignition power at the "12V" terminal.

[Dino]

I like that relay diagram! Thanks John.

I've been researching this remote starter again. It has three power wires to it. One powers the module itself, one powers ignition 1 and the last one powers ignition two. I think I've been looking at this the wrong way. I thought because both IGN1 and IGN2 are joined on my car that I don't need to hook up the IGN2 remote start wires. But it may be that I do need to hook them up so that these wires can be powered when I hit the remote start button. If I leave one off then I either don't give the remote starter module power at crank or at run, so the car wouldn't start or wouldn't stay running.

These power wires also bypass the original power wires because I'm starting the car with the ignition off. Only when I turn on the key with the engine running does the stock wiring take over and the remote starter seizes function.

Does that make sense?

So I'll go ahead and wire up both IGN1 and IGN2...and hope I don't fry the hell out of this car...

Thanks for bearing with me fellas, I know I'm a hassle.