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No electrical power?

Started by Danny Gutierrez, April 12, 2016, 06:50:35 PM

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Danny Gutierrez

Hey guys I have browsed the site and am mystified by my problem. I have power at the battery but none to anything else. If I jump the solenoid relay the car cranks fine but no start. Also no power to the interior or exterior lights. Not even brake lights. The ignition switch is also dead. Where do I start?
1969 Dodge Charger, second owner.  The first owner was my Dad.

Pete in NH

Hi,

It could be a blown fusible link. The  fusible link is a last ditch safety fuse. It is located between the 5/16" battery stud terminal on the starter relay and one of the bulk head connector pins. The original should be blue in color and often has a molded tag saying "fuse" or "link". Some times they corrode open with age or it did its job and melted due to a major short circuit somewhere.

Danny Gutierrez

This is it. How do I test it? Also it is part of the bulk connector. How would I replace it?
1969 Dodge Charger, second owner.  The first owner was my Dad.

crj1968

It would be part of the bulkhead connector. Ohm it out out with a meter to see if it is blown.
Replace it by buying a new one like this.....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-Fusible-Link-Universal-Type-/121944709080?hash=item1c647897d8:g:YzUAAOSwjVVViDbR&vxp=mtr

Yours may look different

Danny Gutierrez

Thanks guys. I will work on it today.
1969 Dodge Charger, second owner.  The first owner was my Dad.

nascarxx29

Wont hurt to check ammeter connections
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

Danny Gutierrez

I pulled and stripped the link. It is fine. I will get a replacement and start looking under the dash.
1969 Dodge Charger, second owner.  The first owner was my Dad.

Danny Gutierrez

Can I just disconnect my ammeter? After browsing the forums I feel it may be the culprit. Also I would not miss it.
1969 Dodge Charger, second owner.  The first owner was my Dad.

crj1968


You cant just take the wires off it and tape them up, as the circuit needs to be complete for just about everything else to work.
Easiest thing is to bypass it by putting both wires on the same post....doesnt matter which side.

Or  take both wires off completely, runs a small nut and bolt through to tie them together and wrap it all up good with electrical tape... either way.

I've had a couple issues with stock ammeters so I always bypass them and then add a voltage gauge instead.

VegasCharger

Before you jump to the conclusions of the ammeter being the culprit like most do, please check your bulkhead connector as well. The "J" cavity which is the large red wire and the "P" cavity which is the large black wire on the dash side and the blue fusible link on the engine compartment side are the weak points due to the high current flow going thru them. They heat up and melt the walls of the cavity. Then corrosion sets in making them prone for a poor connection.

Below are pics of my OEM bulkhead connector after removing all of the wires. It has the typical melted out J & P ports.

Danny Gutierrez

Thanks VegasCharger. I already checked that and all the connections are good. I actually had the car completely rewired with YearOne harnesses about 13 years ago.
1969 Dodge Charger, second owner.  The first owner was my Dad.

mopar0166

yea, most bypass the ammeter.  At least you have  anew harness, but in an original design, moisture is the enemy

VegasCharger

Quote from: Danny Gutierrez on April 14, 2016, 06:10:09 AM
Thanks VegasCharger. I already checked that and all the connections are good. I actually had the car completely rewired with YearOne harnesses about 13 years ago.

:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:

Danny Gutierrez

Update. Pulled the dash and bypassed the ammeter. I now have power! Interior and exterior lights are working. She starts with starting fluid but dies. She has been sitting in the garage for over a year so the carb probably needs to be freshened up. Thanks for the help guys. Oh where can I get a stock looking volt gauge?
1969 Dodge Charger, second owner.  The first owner was my Dad.

crj1968

Good deal.

Stock looking voltage gauge/    :scratchchin:   I dunno

Danny Gutierrez

Quote from: crj1968 on April 15, 2016, 07:46:26 PM
Good deal.

Stock looking voltage gauge/    :scratchchin:   I dunno
Well at least a decent alternative. I realize I am way behind with this electric stuff. I figured this was common stuff.
1969 Dodge Charger, second owner.  The first owner was my Dad.

nascarxx29

Amp gauge always where I check for trouble first
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

b5blue

  You can replace you old gauge with a new OER brand ALT gauge that still works as the factory intended. They are rated higher at 60 amp over the factory 40 amp. The other option is to send an ALT gauge to Redline for modification to a VOLT gauge.
  If the car sat for a year or so don't be upset if you find it needs the carb removed to be cleaned. They can develop a varnish from modern fuel after sitting around not being used.