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69 daytona headlights operation

Started by kiwitrev, May 17, 2016, 03:42:28 PM

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kiwitrev

on my 69 Daytona the headlights don't raise up when turned on. on my superbird they raise by themselves when the car is not running. so I suspect that the previous owner disabled the Daytona headlight actuators or do they work different. well id like instructions on how to get them working again
if it was easy anyone could do it

joining the list my cars group
69 Daytona
70 superbird
66 charger
60 corvette
63 corvette split window
tesla S
96 bronco
10 aston DBS
64 DB5
59 custom cpe deville
TR4
lotus super 7
GTD40
32 roadster and coupe
62 nova57 chev 210 hard top

nascarxx29

It could be vacuum switch on headlight switch at back of cluster not getting vacuum or hoses downline or vacuum can under battey tray .on the wingcars if it still has the headlight springs that will allow headlight doors to creep open overtime with any slight vacuum leak in the system.Also check  actuator attachment points.They use a 961 vacuum actuator if yours is bad or missi ng

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=19205.0
1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701

kiwitrev

my hoses look like the attached
if it was easy anyone could do it

joining the list my cars group
69 Daytona
70 superbird
66 charger
60 corvette
63 corvette split window
tesla S
96 bronco
10 aston DBS
64 DB5
59 custom cpe deville
TR4
lotus super 7
GTD40
32 roadster and coupe
62 nova57 chev 210 hard top

DAY CLONA

Quote from: kiwitrev on May 17, 2016, 03:42:28 PM
on my 69 Daytona the headlights don't raise up when turned on. on my superbird they raise by themselves when the car is not running. so I suspect that the previous owner disabled the Daytona headlight actuators or do they work different. well id like instructions on how to get them working again




I know you mentioned the car had the vacuum harness redone, I'll detail what the stock harness should look like and it's function


Starting at the main firewall, between the wiper motor and the master cylinder there should be a firewall rubber plug with 3 vacuum hoses coming from it, all 3 hoses connect to the switch under the dash, as they leave the firewall grommet, the 2 longest ones head out to the nosecone, the shortest of the 3 hoses goes to the small port on the vacuum reserve canister located under the battery tray, there should be another hose with a larger diameter hose on the larger nipple on the reserve vacuum canister located under the battery tray, that travels back towards the firewall, over the master cylinder along the firewall and attaches to the back of the intake manifold on the engine, this is the main vacuum source for the vacuum reserve canister located under the battery tray

The vacuum hose harness in the nose cone will consist of 2 long main hoses, each one is tee'd off with a shorter hose, one hose and matching tee'd short hose will go to the front port of the vacuum actuators, and the other long hose with a matching short tee'd hose will go to the rear port on the vacuum actuators the lift/lower the lights, both long hoses in the nosecone attach to the 2 longest main harness vaccum hoses, if your lights go up (engine running) with the switch in the off position just swap the 2 long hose connections (main harness to nose cone harness white splice connections located at the battery/radiator yoke area) to correct the vacuum signal(pull)

If you have the original rubber block connection under the dash at the switch ports, it can only be installed one way or not at all

I know you mentioned ZERO function of your vacuum system to activate the lights, problems could be, the vacuum reserve canister could be defective, rusted out, the check valve could be clogged with rust or ruptured, the dash vacuum switch may not be connected, the vacuum dash switch could be defective, the slider arm is broken, or something as simple as the routing of the vacuum connections are not on their proper ports, or components are missing, you'll need to inspect the entire system, it is very simple once you learn what does what, and what goes where

Mike

I'll post some pics as I find them

DAY CLONA

starting with the switch, 2 switches in one, the electrical rocker portion, and the added white vacuum slider selection switch, they are connected by the arm you can see in the pic coming off the chrome rocker, both switches are linked together mechanically but function separate systems, if you look closley you can see the rectangular rubber block that attaches the 3 vacuum lines to the rear of the white slider switch, the 3 rubber vacuum lines are molded into the rectangular rubber block, the port connections on the white slider switch are Asymmetrical so that the block can only go on one way


bottom pick shows the rear of the white slider vacuum switch and the 3 ports

DAY CLONA

Here what the rubber molded block and lines going to the white slider dash switch should look like, and the vacuum reserve canister located under the battery tray...do you have these?, are they functional to your knowledge? are they "hooked up"? does the vacuum harness in your Daytona have the green and yellow stripe identification?