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Vacuum & cams

Started by taxspeaker, October 30, 2018, 07:58:46 PM

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taxspeaker

On our bluebird that we bought from the hippie drag racer we have an issue with both the headlights and the power brakes. rakes are mushy, even after we did a complete brake job, bled all carefully and adjusted, and headlight doors don't close, but lines appear fine. The engine has some kind of cam that was added that has a small "lope" and what little is left of my memory tells me that the lift or duration or something like that ruins the vacuum generation, which would affect both of the above issues.

Is there a measurement or reading that can tell me if the engine generates enough vacuum to cure these issues?
Thanks

BTW get ready for an anthracite gray (gloss) color picture on this bird by Christmas as we are working on it now.
Bob

odcics2

What's your vacuum at idle?
I've never owned anything but a MoPar. Can you say that?

hemi-hampton

Yes, there is a Vacuum gauge to measure Vacuum. I had the same problem with my Car with big cam. Forgot what the Vacuum # should read but somewhere around 16 if I remember right. LEON.

taxspeaker

Thanks, I get home tomorrow night and will stick a gauge on it and see

DAY CLONA

If the car is a 4spd, 10 inches of vac reading is about the minimum at idle, for a power brake vehicle, an automatic will require 12 inches minimum at idle to have a successful recovery of vacuum to safety perform repeated braking, the manual tranny vehicle recovers faster due to clutching the engine for braking, if the vehicle has a dual diaphram brake booster you'll need at least a minimum of 12-14 inches at idle for safe repetitive braking with an automatic.... your light pod issue sounds like switch/vac resv canister related? or perhaps deteriorated vacuum lines also?  if the cam is robbing you of vacuum due to it's overlap profile, your only choice is cam change or vacuum pump assist...

hemi68charger

Bob..

I would also get a simple hand vacuum pump from your local auto parts store and manually try to close your headlamp buckets? It is easy to just disconnect the connect up front ( there should be a connector near the vicinity of the nose. Close the doors and just hold it there and see if they start to open again caused by the safety springs ( if they are still on the car ). This way you have isolated the vacuum system from the headlamp bucket pods....... Then work yourself backwards.... Also, isolate the vacuum can under the battery to see if it still holds vacuum by the same principle using the hand vacuum pump....

Troy
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

Moparpoolman

I would check the power booster, maybe when checking the vacuum with a gauge disconnect the booster and plug the line just to make sure you're not losing vacuum from the booster

taxspeaker

Thanks for the leads. Pulling only 6" at idle-pretty strong cam (unknown numbers-before my ownership). Guess the next step is an electric vacuum pump. Anyone have one of them installed?

taxspeaker

I have listed car for sale in Craigslist Louisville by the way.

303 Mopar

Quote from: taxspeaker on November 03, 2018, 06:25:11 PM
Thanks for the leads. Pulling only 6" at idle-pretty strong cam (unknown numbers-before my ownership). Guess the next step is an electric vacuum pump. Anyone have one of them installed?

I installed one in the trunk of my '71 Challenger. It was loud an obnoxious despite the rubber mounts.  This would be my last choice.
1968 Charger - 1970 Cuda - 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible

odcics2

Maybe a smaller cam would help sell it?   :Twocents:
I've never owned anything but a MoPar. Can you say that?