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1968 Charger- no start- no 12v power

Started by whitehatspecial, April 25, 2017, 12:01:01 PM

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whitehatspecial

Hello

I have a problem with my '68 Charger, 318 automatic. The car has been trouble-free and is a driver, although it is very original 50,000 mile 1 family car. This past weekend I started the car and was in the process of warming it up when it stalled. The attempted to restart the car when I heard a small electrical pop (similar to a fuse blowing), everything went dead after that. No starter, no lights, no horn, etc. The battery measures 12.5v from positive to ground as does the smaller red cable going to the starter relay terminal.

I don't see any fusible link, and I'm wondering if it may be the amp gauge. Any ideas or similar experiences such as this.

I will add that there have been no alterations to any of the wiring or gauges, and that the car has always been garaged.

Thank you.
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

birdsandbees

Check this "Purple" wire first.. you have power to the starter relay lug, do you have power at the bulkhead connector. This is the fusable link and it may have blown. If you do have power at the bulkhead connector check the same location inside the car. Could be a bad male to female connection and proceed from there..
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

comet_666


whitehatspecial

OK. Thanks. I do have 12v to the large terminal on the starter relay, but whn I checked several open female connectors on the bulkhead connectors, there is no voltage. How do I remove the fusible connector from the bulkhead connector (without breaking anything) so I can do an ohm test? I tried pulling a bit with a small needle nose but it didn't budge.

Thanks.
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

M5Ivan

You need to remove the engine harness connector at the bulkhead first to get to the other side. The fusible link can be removed by squeezing the end that's in the connector together.

whitehatspecial

Quote from: M5Ivan on April 25, 2017, 01:44:18 PM
You need to remove the engine harness connector at the bulkhead first to get to the other side. The fusible link can be removed by squeezing the end that's in the connector together.

So there's no way to unplug the fusible link from the engine bay side without unplugging the main harness (and releasing the clip) from under the dash?  :shruggy:
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

M5Ivan

You do remove it from the engine side. Remove the middle connector from the bulkhead and you'll see the other side of the fusible link. Easy.

Gold Rush

And when you remove that middle bulkhead connector you will not actually have to remove the fusable link to check it.  If you have 12 volts on both sides the link is good.
24 years USAF, 25 years consumer electronics repair technician.  Now I ride a Honda Goldwing trike and wrench my latest project.  Children and Grandchildren are gown so I have to find other places to spend my time and money!

birdsandbees

Should have been no need to remove anything.. jam the volt meter test tip into the purple wires position on the connector. No voltage,  your fusable link blew.

No voltage, follow what the others stated...
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

whitehatspecial

Update. I do have continuity from the fusible link to the bulkhead connector. I'm looking at 2 possibilities from here. My battery ground cable isn't in good shape and I've ordered a new one. When I'm up to it ( I had a hip replacement 3 weeks ago) I'll get under the dash to check the voltage gauge and maybe bypass it. Thanks for the help and suggestions so far.
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

nvrbdn

This is exactly what was wrong with my car. It would run one day, and not the next. The male tab going into the bulkhead was arcing and melted. Very lucky I didn't have a fire. Check that connection.
70 Dodge Charger 500
70 Duster (Moulin Rouge)
73 Challenger
50 Dodge Pilot House

birdsandbees

Yep.. why I replaced mine to be on the safe side..
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

nvrbdn

That is exactly what mine looked like. :yesnod:
70 Dodge Charger 500
70 Duster (Moulin Rouge)
73 Challenger
50 Dodge Pilot House

70 sublime

Quote from: birdsandbees on April 26, 2017, 06:40:00 PM
Yep.. why I replaced mine to be on the safe side..

Could not figure what was wrong when you posted the first time but it seems you swapped pictures and now it makes more sense  :yesnod:
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

whitehatspecial

My connectors look good, no burn marks or melting. There is a little white corrosion which i'm going to clean up brfore I plug things back together. I haven't found any obvious arching faults yet.
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

birdsandbees

Quote from: 70 sublime on April 26, 2017, 07:29:57 PM
Quote from: birdsandbees on April 26, 2017, 06:40:00 PM
Yep.. why I replaced mine to be on the safe side..

Could not figure what was wrong when you posted the first time but it seems you swapped pictures and now it makes more sense  :yesnod:

it's like when you go to the optometrist... which is better 1 ooorrr 2??  :lol:
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

70 sublime

next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

Nacho-RT74

If the fuse link blown makes me wonder WHY it blow? It must be something into the main circuits system, not protected by the fuses at box.

I can make a testament about what to check. Alt-amm wires, headlight wires... ign switch wires.

Or maybe just the fuse link got grounded accidentally ( peeled cover somehow and chassis contact )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Need to note the melting process is not ALLWAYS an arching failure. It is usually an overload in teminal due low capacity of the terminal to handle the load OR loosen/dirty terminals.

Believe or not, getting bigger capacity alts will save HALF of the overheating due the overloads on bulkhead... yes it seems to be contradictory, but it is for real
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

whitehatspecial

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on May 01, 2017, 08:27:09 AM
Need to note the melting process is not ALLWAYS an arching failure. It is usually an overload in teminal due low capacity of the terminal to handle the load OR loosen/dirty terminals.

Believe or not, getting bigger capacity alts will save HALF of the overheating due the overloads on bulkhead... yes it seems to be contradictory, but it is for real

Are you responding the OP? My fusible link did not blow nor did the bulkhead show any signs of deformation by heat.
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

whitehatspecial

I ended up replacing both battery cables. They were originals and the ground was really deteriorated.
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

nvrbdn

do we have power now and engine cranking?
70 Dodge Charger 500
70 Duster (Moulin Rouge)
73 Challenger
50 Dodge Pilot House

whitehatspecial

Quote from: nvrbdn on June 03, 2017, 01:36:47 PM
do we have power now and engine cranking?


Yes. It fired right up. I replaced both cables with ones from eBay. I was really impressed with the ground cable I purchased from acdcwireandsupply.  They'll make any length you need (1/0 gauge wire) very reasonably Made in USA. I bought the positive from Olsmokey46. Both cables less than 50.00. Of course they're not concourse reproductions, but I've been done with that crap for some time now.
Cars owned:
1968 Dodge Charger, 48k orig. miles, family owned since new.
Not a Hemi, a mini-hemi 340.

nvrbdn

70 Dodge Charger 500
70 Duster (Moulin Rouge)
73 Challenger
50 Dodge Pilot House

PocketThunder

Quote from: whitehatspecial on June 03, 2017, 01:22:46 PM
I ended up replacing both battery cables. They were originals and the ground was really deteriorated.

How does a battery cable go bad though?  The connection between the clamp and the wires?

Paul
"Liberalism is a disease that attacks one's ability to understand logic. Extreme manifestations include the willingness to continue down a path of self destruction, based solely on a delusional belief in a failed ideology."

Troy

Quote from: PocketThunder on July 19, 2017, 03:10:35 PM
Quote from: whitehatspecial on June 03, 2017, 01:22:46 PM
I ended up replacing both battery cables. They were originals and the ground was really deteriorated.

How does a battery cable go bad though?  The connection between the clamp and the wires?

Paul

They can corrode from the inside out. I was just helping my step dad the other day with his truck. The wires were hard as a rock! Split the covering and they were green almost all the way through.

Troy
Sarcasm detector, that's a real good invention.