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Started by rikubot, April 29, 2017, 10:00:20 PM
Quote from: rikubot on May 16, 2017, 01:09:33 AMDo you have any recommendations for an epoxy primer in an aerosol can?
Quote from: six-tee-nine on May 18, 2017, 09:30:58 AMQuote from: rikubot on May 16, 2017, 01:09:33 AMDo you have any recommendations for an epoxy primer in an aerosol can?Yeah...... dont buy that stuff.Buy a paint gun and a compressor and pressure reducer/water separator. No need for a fancy devillbiss paint gun of several hundereds of dollars. To apply primer you can buy alot cheaper and get nice resutls.Buy epoxy primer and highbuild primer in large cans along with reducer and hardener. Works alot faster, alot cheaper in the end. And you can still use that stuff later on for instance on interior parts or smaller parts to get a better rattle can paint result. You can paint smaller things alot nicer with rattle cans if the parts were prepped with primer from a spray gun. thicker coats will give you more material to smooth stuff out and will give you a better result when using thin spray can paint. And ont the large surfaces of the body it will work alot faster to shoot primer.
Quote from: rikubot on May 20, 2017, 12:18:47 PMDamn it I had just ordered a cab from jegs... is there anywhere I can put it to make use of it? LolAlso, I have a question about spot welding. I've got one from my buddy's shop, what kind of metal prep do I have to do to use it? My research has brought up mixed answers. Is that AMD coating ok to leave on? What about POR15? What conditions do I need to make a nice spot weld?
Quote from: rikubot on May 20, 2017, 09:30:29 PMThanks for the tip. That makes perfect sense. The video I watched on YouTube he did the same thing. Any preference for weld thru primers? We ended up cutting the old roof off. The metal underneath was in really good shape except for right under the lip in the center of the windshield, but I think it's still usable without any repair other than smoothing it out for the new skin's lip. The work didn't suck too bad! I ended up storing my buddy's car and parking mine in his garage. I'll post some pics if you guys are interested in checking out the progress. I guess the next step is to wire wheel the frame and coat it with some POR15. Then prep the seams for the new metal.
Quote from: rikubot on May 21, 2017, 10:33:41 AMI've got a whole mess of people telling me to glue the skin down with panel bond. What are your thoughts on that?
Quote from: rikubot on May 21, 2017, 12:00:28 PMAgreed. So you would do it at the windshield and back glass, and drip rails, but only weld the A and C pillars? I read somewhere that a guy glued the drip rails only, but that almost defeats the purpose IMO.
Quote from: rikubot on May 21, 2017, 09:10:08 PMThe skin fits kinda strangely on the left C-Pillar. Did any of you guys experience this with your skins? The bottom edge where it meets the drip rail... The skin isn't clamped down but I don't think that will help that lip reach the drip rail any better. Id post a pic but I can't seem to figure out how to compress my photos and retain good enough quality.
Quote from: darbgnik on May 22, 2017, 12:55:53 AMQuote from: rikubot on May 21, 2017, 09:10:08 PMThe skin fits kinda strangely on the left C-Pillar. Did any of you guys experience this with your skins? The bottom edge where it meets the drip rail... The skin isn't clamped down but I don't think that will help that lip reach the drip rail any better. Id post a pic but I can't seem to figure out how to compress my photos and retain good enough quality. A shortcut I've found to resize pics for this site while keeping them from turning miniscule, is, if you take them with your phone camera, text the pic to yourself. Then upload the received texted pic. The compression used in text is pretty impressive. The pic shows a lot of detail, yet is 200K or under. If it's still a little over 200k, you can resize it using windows paint from there, and it'll still be pretty good.
Quote from: rikubot on May 22, 2017, 09:33:53 AMFigured I would just host it and keep the size large. Here you can see the lower part of that rear seam pretty well. I can get more pics later. http://unpluggedupd.com/downloads.html
Quote from: rikubot on May 22, 2017, 11:15:30 AMDo you have any close ups of your seams during your build?
Quote from: rikubot on May 22, 2017, 06:13:33 PMIf anyone has any pics of their roof seems, I'd sure like to see them. Dreamcar, Do you know when you'll be stickin those quartrs on? I assume you'll be documenting it right?
QuoteWithin a month or two. Yes, I'll be documenting. Did you take pics before and while you took the skin off? Was I right that the AMD skin tucks under the factory quarter?The picture is of the AMD quarter C pillar. The drop-down flange is where the factory roof skin goes on top off, which like I said would the opposite of what you have based on the picture you provided.
Quote from: charger_fan_4ever on May 22, 2017, 09:07:33 PMThe 3m panel bond acts as a sealer at same time Welded a piece into the C section onto the 1/4, so that only a skim coat of filler is needed.Welded along the front and rear window. Panel bond for the sides and cross supports. We stripped all the e coat off the amd panels and put good epoxy on.For your everyday car id leave the e coat and just scuff and prime overtop. But on a resto not taking any chances.
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