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What is the best modification you've made to your Charger?

Started by JR, May 03, 2017, 06:20:02 PM

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JR

I thought the front page was looking sort of stale here, and have a thread topic I've been wanting to start for a while now.

So, like title states, what's the best modification you've made to your Charger?  Be it for better drivability, appearance, reliability, or anything.

What is the best dollar spent per enjoyment returned modification you've made to your car?

More power? Big brakes? Bitchin' surfer foot gas pedal and cowgirl mudflaps?

Mine is a really hard decision between the EFI and the 17 inch modern tires.

Both improved the drivability and the fun of driving the car immensely, and have justified their purchase price many times over with how much better the car performs now.

So with that said, I'm wondering, what are some of the best modifications you've made to your Chargers?
70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

71charger_fan


cbrestorations


JR

DUDE THATS LOOKING AWESOME!

Can't wait for on track videos of Daisy.
70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

Kern Dog

I like those wheels, Chris. I'm used to seeing them on import cars so its nice to see them squeezed in there!

Dans 68

1973 SE 400 727  1 of 19,645                                        1968 383 4bbl 4spds  2 of 259

Kern Dog

To answer the OPs question....
My Charger was a 318-904-8.25-4 wheel drum car originally. It is hard to single out one specific change that made the most impact on me. Pretty much every change made a nice difference. Visually, the body and paint is an easy choice. The 440/493 obviously makes more power than the 130,000 mile 318. The suspension and steering modifications/changes resulted in a better handling car. The brakes evolved from 4 wheel drums to front disc/rear drum, then to 4 wheel discs.

6bblgt

Quote from: Kern Dog on May 03, 2017, 08:08:56 PM
I like those wheels, Chris. I'm used to seeing them on import cars so its nice to see them squeezed in there!

but, but, but, those tires are directional, right?  is the car built for going forward or reverse?  :scratchchin:

cbrestorations

Quote from: 6bblgt on May 03, 2017, 11:31:33 PM
Quote from: Kern Dog on May 03, 2017, 08:08:56 PM
I like those wheels, Chris. I'm used to seeing them on import cars so its nice to see them squeezed in there!

but, but, but, those tires are directional, right?  is the car built for going forward or reverse?  :scratchchin:
It's the craziest thing...when you turn the steering wheel it then directs the tread pattern in the direction you wanna go

Laowho

Scheduled for the Passon 4-speed OD, and then we'll add sub-frame connectors outa 2x3 stock, leafs/shocks and bigger sway bar. After that, this 17" wheel thing is what's on every must have list and guess we'll have to seriously look into it. Just dunno that I ever saw any that managed to look stock enuf for me and our mild driver. In fact, was parked next to a beautiful 71 RR last nite, all 500+hp of its 383/pistol-gripped 4-speed with 17" torque thrusters, and it was all pretty clear that he's in one lane and we're in the other w/ our 15" rallye wheels and all the rest that came w/ a white top. UNLESS the handling trade-off is as there as some say. Then we'll gladly jump, but might start w/ 60s instead of 70s. That'll help handling.

CRW-FK5


Just 6T9 CHGR

Larger front swaybar & addition of a rear with Bilstein shocks...Oh yeah front power discs helped too!
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


DAY CLONA

Tremec TKO 600 5 spd .64 OD, behind a 440/6, how else can you do 140-150 MPH with 4:10 gears  :coolgleamA: only regret is I wish I had parked a Tremec T56 6 spd Viper .50 OD behind it instead


4 wheel power disc brakes is second on the list for best mods performed/made...

fizz

Overdrive auto trans. Low gears for scootin and low rpm interstate cruise

comet_666

When I started the restoration of my car it was a poorly built 440/ 4 speed 3:91,  4 wheel drum car that was so badly rusted it was pretty much split in half. I drove it like that for 10 years.
The car after restoration has frame ties, torque boxes, front sway bar, new rear frame rails, dick brakes in the front, 3.23 gears /727 and a 512 stroker motor. By not doing 1 upgrade at a time it is very hard to tell what upgrades did what, but I can tell you that being able to stop the car helps!

taxspeaker

replaced 383 with crate hemi
then replaced torque converter
then replaced tranny
then replaced torque converter again
then replaced torque converter again
then replaced owner

Dino

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

BLK 68 R/T

So far, I think the change to EFI has been the best upgrade.


WHITE AND RED 69

1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

74Rallye

Changing the auto out for a 4 sp and $hit canning my Edelbrock for a Demon carb. Next will be the rear suspension as the axel wraps up too much and breaks stuff.

alfaitalia

Still in production and classified....but....8.71....nuff said!
If at first you don't succeed, skydiving is not for you !!


303 Mopar

Auto to a 4 speed jumped the fun of driving my car, but it was a few thousand to do it.  Best bang for the buck has to be subframe connectors.  Amazing how much more solid the car is now for not that much money.
1968 Charger - 1970 Cuda - 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible

XH29N0G

Mine is probably upping the power by having the engine rebuilt from the HP 383 to a 450 stroker.  I have yet to do brakes and suspension and look forward to that.  I like sticky tires now.  I am probably most proud of the restoration that brought it back to better than its original shape, and I like most of all the continuous tinkering (which would be all of them, to infinity and beyond).
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....


chargerperson

Restomodded my non #s matching 67.  of all the upgrades the 392 hemi was probably the best upgrade for the money.  The RMS suspension and wilwood brakes are nice but pricey.

BDF


Finn

AirRide probably...

Close second would be changing from open 3.23 gears to 3.55 with suregrip.
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

Laowho

Quote from: JR on May 03, 2017, 06:20:02 PM


Mine is a really hard decision between the EFI and the 17 inch modern tires.

Both improved the drivability and the fun of driving the car immensely, and have justified their purchase price many times over with how much better the car performs now.

So with that said, I'm wondering, what are some of the best modifications you've made to your Chargers?

Broke down and got the 17" x 9" wheels yesterday, and 245/50r17 Pirelli tires. Only 3/4" shorter than current setup. LOL Can't wait to see how they are behind the 4-speed OD. Like I told my wife as each classic car exited the last show, "Hear that, hun? Not an auto." Just as important is what we're NOT doin (aluminum heads), as we don't feel the need to chase down that last 500 rpm in our cam. And even the EFI may have gotten chopped.

JR

Quote from: Laowho on May 06, 2017, 08:29:49 AM
Quote from: JR on May 03, 2017, 06:20:02 PM


Mine is a really hard decision between the EFI and the 17 inch modern tires.

Both improved the drivability and the fun of driving the car immensely, and have justified their purchase price many times over with how much better the car performs now.

So with that said, I'm wondering, what are some of the best modifications you've made to your Chargers?

Broke down and got the 17" x 9" wheels yesterday, and 245/50r17 Pirelli tires. Only 3/4" shorter than current setup. LOL Can't wait to see how they are behind the 4-speed OD. Like I told my wife as each classic car exited the last show, "Hear that, hun? Not an auto." Just as important is what we're NOT doin (aluminum heads), as we don't feel the need to chase down that last 500 rpm in our cam. And even the EFI may have gotten chopped.


Thats great, the difference in road manners is very noticeable.  15 inch BFG TAs are like driving on hard plastic in comparison.

Id also highly recommend pairing them with front and rear swaybars if you want better body control. I have the biggest ones Helwig offers for a 70, and they pair great with modern rubber. They cured the extreme understeer condition I was battling at the autocross, along with body roll in the corners, and also dont make the ride any firmer.

Post pics of your new wheels once you get them on.
70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

BrianShaughnessy

Black Betty:  1969 Charger R/T - X9 440 six pack, TKO600 5 speed, 3.73 Dana 60.
Sinnamon:  1969 Charger R/T - T5 440, 727, 3.23 8 3/4 high school sweetheart.

Laowho

Quote from: JR on May 06, 2017, 08:56:14 AM
Quote from: Laowho on May 06, 2017, 08:29:49 AM
Quote from: JR on May 03, 2017, 06:20:02 PM


Mine is a really hard decision between the EFI and the 17 inch modern tires.

Both improved the drivability and the fun of driving the car immensely, and have justified their purchase price many times over with how much better the car performs now.

So with that said, I'm wondering, what are some of the best modifications you've made to your Chargers?

Broke down and got the 17" x 9" wheels yesterday, and 245/50r17 Pirelli tires. Only 3/4" shorter than current setup. LOL Can't wait to see how they are behind the 4-speed OD. Like I told my wife as each classic car exited the last show, "Hear that, hun? Not an auto." Just as important is what we're NOT doin (aluminum heads), as we don't feel the need to chase down that last 500 rpm in our cam. And even the EFI may have gotten chopped.


Thats great, the difference in road manners is very noticeable.  15 inch BFG TAs are like driving on hard plastic in comparison.

Id also highly recommend pairing them with front and rear swaybars if you want better body control. I have the biggest ones Helwig offers for a 70, and they pair great with modern rubber. They cured the extreme understeer condition I was battling at the autocross, along with body roll in the corners, and also dont make the ride any firmer.

Post pics of your new wheels once you get them on.

Took some time with the car to know what to do, but I always wanted the 4-speed and nobody has backed me up yet, even now that it's ordered. YET, the single best improvement so far here is the manual overdrives. I'm obviously askin the wrong people. Sway bars check. Could only get the wheels in 9" and have been worried the 245s would be a little tight, but I was determined to have both so have been massaging my own research.

edit: Swapped out for the 8" wheel. Should be a decent fill. Have the SFCs, wheels/tires, springs (ESPO), shocks (Bilstein), and rear sway bar (Hellwig).

pipeliner

T-56 Magnum close ratio from SST with billet flywheel, hydraulic set up and a new pistol grip from Hurst with the 6 speed lens for my 70 RT.

Dino

Quote from: pipeliner on May 07, 2017, 05:02:24 PM
T-56 Magnum close ratio from SST with billet flywheel, hydraulic set up and a new pistol grip from Hurst with the 6 speed lens for my 70 RT.

Nice!

Going to do a T-56 install myself. Any tips are welcome!
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

JR

All this talk of overdrive has me wondering.

What's the ballpark pricing for that SST T56 setup? I'm guessing 5-7k?

Seems like a lot to swallow at first, but if you go Gear Vendors, that runs 3500 or so, and you end up with a .78 overdrive gear. So I definitely see the appeal of the Tremec.

What's the shifter feel like for you guys who've made the swap? Is it smooth? Ive heard the older TKO swaps we're really notchy and hard to speed shift.
70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

c00nhunterjoe

So many upgrades, hard to pick just one. Engine aside, the biggest "felt" improvement would be the frame connectors. I swapped from drum to disc but my drums were in good working order and  always stopped great. My dana 60 swap was a great improvement in reliability, but drives the same. There are soooo many. Each one has had its important place and it wouldnt be my car without them.

Ryan.C

Quote from: JR on May 07, 2017, 07:21:03 PM
All this talk of overdrive has me wondering.

What's the ballpark pricing for that SST T56 setup? I'm guessing 5-7k?

Seems like a lot to swallow at first, but if you go Gear Vendors, that runs 3500 or so, and you end up with a .78 overdrive gear. So I definitely see the appeal of the Tremec.

What's the shifter feel like for you guys who've made the swap? Is it smooth? Ive heard the older TKO swaps we're really notchy and hard to speed shift.

I paid 1,700 for the trans and 550 for the quick time bell to attach it to my 440. I can tell you it is not "notchy" at all. I cannot speak to all T56's but the 2004 Viper I got my trans out of is very smooth and easy to shift. I highly recommend it.
There are few problems in life that cannot be solved with C-4.

JR

Wow, I had no idea they were that affordable.

Ive been wanting O/D forever, but the thought of spending 3500+ for the Gear vendors 727 kit seems like alot for so little overdrive.

I may have to reconsider a manual swap.

Where does your shifter end up if you go with the Viper trans? Can you use an original console?
70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

Ryan.C

The trans is a top loader vs a side loader like a 833. So the factory console is use-able. The tape measure is taken from the firewall. 
There are few problems in life that cannot be solved with C-4.

Ryan.C

Oh and to further reduce costs I pilfered a clutch pedal from a E36 BMW in a local junk yard and welded it to my auto pedal assy.  :Twocents:
There are few problems in life that cannot be solved with C-4.

DAY CLONA

Quote from: JR on May 07, 2017, 07:21:03 PM
All this talk of overdrive has me wondering.

What's the ballpark pricing for that SST T56 setup? I'm guessing 5-7k?

Seems like a lot to swallow at first, but if you go Gear Vendors, that runs 3500 or so, and you end up with a .78 overdrive gear. So I definitely see the appeal of the Tremec.

What's the shifter feel like for you guys who've made the swap? Is it smooth? Ive heard the older TKO swaps we're really notchy and hard to speed shift.



Tremec T56 is the way to go if you don't mind modding the floor and transmission cross member, your price quote is right on, all depends on what you require in the way of additional parts, or transmission options, you can go as deep as a .50 OD

If a TKO 5spd is more to your liking, don't waste time with the TKO500, purchase a TKO600, personally I prefer the .64 OD with a hyd. throw out bearing, TKO's are quirky or notchy shifting until you get about 200-500 miles on them break in time, if speed shifting or over 6K RPM shifts are your bag, then order a carbon fiber upgrade to the syncros over the stock bronze, or even have it faceplated if you plan on serious strip action

The TKO will run you the same money as the T56, IMHO all you guys that missed the 5 spd "ship", it sailed about 5 yrs ago it's "old school" now, T56 6spd suppliers/kits are now abundant and is truly the best upgrade IMHO if you don't mind the mods to fit it, you'll still have some minor floor mods with the TKO as well 

DAY CLONA

Quote from: JR on May 07, 2017, 10:11:28 PM
Wow, I had no idea they were that affordable.

Ive been wanting O/D forever, but the thought of spending 3500+ for the Gear vendors 727 kit seems like alot for so little overdrive.

I may have to reconsider a manual swap.

Where does your shifter end up if you go with the Viper trans? Can you use an original console?


A used T56 can run $1500-$2500, and all T56's are not the same, internally or externally, the stock T56 shifter location can vary depending on the units initial application (Viper, GM. Cadillac, Ford, etc), but none will fall in the stock 68-70 B body location, SST, AP or Hurst re-machine/mod the case internals and externals to relocate the shifter forward on the case in their kit offerings, by the time you add in the quick time bell, clutch, flywheel, sourcing a hyd TOB, driveshaft shortened, making all the mods to install, you've saved at best $1K-$2K max and still have a used transmission with the shifter in a compromised position, unless you have the skill set and equipment to mod the case/shift rails to relocate the shifter

IMHO your better off purchasing a kit from the likes of SST or AP or Hurst, start with a new transmission modded for your application, proven components, plus a warranty.  ...if you like the task of fitting and engineering your own application, then go for it

pipeliner

Quote from: Dino on May 07, 2017, 05:33:16 PM
Quote from: pipeliner on May 07, 2017, 05:02:24 PM
T-56 Magnum close ratio from SST with billet flywheel, hydraulic set up and a new pistol grip from Hurst with the 6 speed lens for my 70 RT.

Nice!

Going to do a T-56 install myself. Any tips are welcome!
Im working away and my body man is going to do it for me. I priced this kit which included what I mentioned above, with clutch and shifter and it was around $7500. I called them back and said that I had a budget of $7k and if they didn't want it I was going back to a 4 speed. They took me up on my offer and the rest is history. I'm using a non-console shifter and the shifter they sent is a knock off. It's a nice piece but not a Hurst. So I sent it back and called Hurst and they sent me one for a 6 speed and it was actually $5 cheaper lol. My T-56 is a .63 and I'm running 3.91 gears.

RiverRaider

Engineered Cooling Products radiator.
Factory shroud bolted right to it.
My first Charger was a Stock Car.

M5Ivan

Bilstein shocks, subframe connectors and ProCar Rally seats. I'm sure I'll be happy with my working A/C once the weather heats up around here  ;D

LaOtto70Charger

Disc brakes so I can drive wit out freaking out, a dakota starter since it starts SO much quicker, and cup holders!

RollinThunder

I have owned my charger for many years.  Since 1979.  Made many mistakes, that is how we learn.  Most noticeable improvements that come to mind:
o Many of you are not going to like this, Removing 9 year old Firestone Firehawk 500's, 215/70R15 frt and 275/60r15 rr mounted on AR 505 rims, with Hankook P215/75R14's and stock SE W15 deep dish wheel covers.  These tires also have a 5/8" white side wall, which for me...is close enough.  For the money ($317 for all 4 mounted and balanced), the ride is the best, and these are also very quiet tires.  Very good riding...did I say the ride was a big improvement...
o Getting the ignition timing and fuel air ratio correct.  No more over heating and no more stinking, or smelling like gasoline after a drive.
o Sound deadner (believe it was bread board product) to floors.
o By-passing the bulkhead connector for the charging feed in and out.  Still use the amp meter, but the big red and black wires have their own entrance into and out of the firewall (no tiny 1/4" spade connector to corrode or overheat).  Learning how to test for voltage drop.
o Electronic voltage requlator system (dual field alternator) upgrade.
o Replacing u-joints, or any bad suspension part.
o Getting rid of urethane bushings and going back to stock rubber.
o Learning to fit brake shoes to drums, and getting help bleeding. Using dot5 silicone.


Kern Dog

 "Many of you are not going to like this, Removing 9 year old Firestone Firehawk 500's, 215/70R15 frt and 275/60r15 rr mounted on AR 505 rims, with....."

Who cares what others think? Its your car, man! Enjoy yourself with it!

Laowho


Dropped car off yesterday for the manual OD swap, and they said they'd go ahead and drop in the SFCs too, but one guy kinda kept pushing the torque boxes, which sent me back to researching. Turns out that probably the single greatest structural improvement you can make is lower radiator support--you just don't hear about it very often.  :shruggy: