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Author Topic: Superbird Radiator  (Read 922 times)
oldchevelle541
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« on: May 14, 2017, 07:40:13 AM »

Greetings,
changing oil this weekend and I noticed my radiator is seeping at the lower drivers side corner where the add on metal corner bracing is. I want to consider repairing as well as new. It appears this radiator has been repaired before since a tag was added naming the radiator repair shop business. My question is: did the originals receive any kind of date code vs the standard 2998956 and 20446 numbers on the top tank. How can I tell if this was truly the original to the car. Was OEM 3 or 4 row and finally where is best place to get a new exact OEM drop in unit.

Any help appreciated.   
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BLK 68 R/T
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68 Charger R/T, 493 stroker engine, 727 auto.


« Reply #1 on: May 14, 2017, 08:37:06 AM »

Only place I know of that does 100% correct radiators. They can most likely fix/restore yours as well instead of buying a brand new one.
http://www.restorationradiators.com/
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WINGIN IT
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« Reply #2 on: May 14, 2017, 10:57:24 AM »

I'll second that.
Whether you are restoring original or buying a repro yesnod
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6bblgt
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« Reply #3 on: May 14, 2017, 07:43:57 PM »

the passenger side mounting strap is stamped/dated 132 9 (132rd day of 1969) etc.
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chaaargerb
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« Reply #4 on: May 15, 2017, 02:03:08 PM »

Just got mine back from Glen Ray's. I think they did a wonderful job. My date looks to be 291 9


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oldchevelle541
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« Reply #5 on: May 15, 2017, 05:37:42 PM »

Thanks everyone.

I spoke with Bob earlier today at Glen Ray. Very nice man and patient with speaking to you on the phone. My car was built on day 318 according to Galen and date code on radiator is 3129 hence I believe it is original to car. I have sent photos to Bob to get more of his opinion on likelihood of restoring the original as it is in very good condition and was last serviced by Goldies Radiator in Sioux Falls back in September 2005.
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Hoser2455
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« Reply #6 on: May 16, 2017, 12:39:02 AM »

Glen ray is the place to go. Did a great job on my radiator.  I also had them put in larger tubes on the radiator to help it run cooler.  This is used by a lot of people with birds because of their overheating problems.  You have to look real close to tell the difference. I also run Evans coolant in my radiator. A little more pricey, about twice as much, but it won't get super hot either.  Watch a couple of the episodes of Jay Leno's garage and search for the Evans coolant.  This stuff works real well and better than antifreeze.  I can idle my car for 15 minutes, hood down, in 98 degree weather and it still runs about 190 degrees.
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62 Max
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« Reply #7 on: May 16, 2017, 06:33:11 AM »

Glen ray is the place to go. Did a great job on my radiator.  I also had them put in larger tubes on the radiator to help it run cooler.  This is used by a lot of people with birds because of their overheating problems.  You have to look real close to tell the difference. I also run Evans coolant in my radiator. A little more pricey, about twice as much, but it won't get super hot either.  Watch a couple of the episodes of Jay Leno's garage and search for the Evans coolant.  This stuff works real well and better than antifreeze.  I can idle my car for 15 minutes, hood down, in 98 degree weather and it still runs about 190 degrees.

Mine does the same thing with the original radiator and Prestone !!   shruggy
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chaaargerb
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« Reply #8 on: May 16, 2017, 06:47:26 AM »

Glen ray is the place to go. Did a great job on my radiator.  I also had them put in larger tubes on the radiator to help it run cooler.  This is used by a lot of people with birds because of their overheating problems.  You have to look real close to tell the difference. I also run Evans coolant in my radiator. A little more pricey, about twice as much, but it won't get super hot either.  Watch a couple of the episodes of Jay Leno's garage and search for the Evans coolant.  This stuff works real well and better than antifreeze.  I can idle my car for 15 minutes, hood down, in 98 degree weather and it still runs about 190 degrees.

I had Glen ray's put the larger tubes in my radiator also. I figured it's better to be safe then sorry.
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maxwellwedge
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« Reply #9 on: May 16, 2017, 07:59:20 AM »

Thanks everyone.

I spoke with Bob earlier today at Glen Ray. Very nice man and patient with speaking to you on the phone. My car was built on day 318 according to Galen and date code on radiator is 3129 hence I believe it is original to car. I have sent photos to Bob to get more of his opinion on likelihood of restoring the original as it is in very good condition and was last serviced by Goldies Radiator in Sioux Falls back in September 2005.

Me - I would always restore an original component. 2thumbs
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oldchevelle541
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« Reply #10 on: May 16, 2017, 05:24:12 PM »

Thanks everyone for your valued comments. I will be talking to Bob again soon to make some decisions.

Not as easy as I thought.

Part of me wants the dependability of new with the date code transferred over and not worry about it again for years to come but on the other hand original is top dog. If I go new I will definitely keep the old and if the car is ever sold it will go with the car. 
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Hemi Runner
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« Reply #11 on: May 18, 2017, 05:12:28 AM »

What's the cost of having Glen Ray go through a radiator?
What's a 956 radiator worth? I have one in my roadrunner but was thinking of going to an aluminum radiator.
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DAY CLONA
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« Reply #12 on: May 18, 2017, 07:42:38 AM »

What's the cost of having Glen Ray go through a radiator?
What's a 956 radiator worth? I have one in my roadrunner but was thinking of going to an aluminum radiator.



depends upon condition, the amount of work desired/required...but you'll spend from $500 up to $1000, at that point just buy a new unit from Glen Ray, unless you absolutely must have your original, but the Glen Ray repros are so nice you can't tell original from repro
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still winging it at www.officialdayclona.com
oldchevelle541
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« Reply #13 on: May 18, 2017, 07:09:30 PM »

Bob quoted me a range of 400-700 depending on the work to be done. The cost item that has to be considered is cost of shipping to and back......not cheap. When you look at total investment it may be worth a few more hundred to have peace of mind and reliability with a new unit. I will likely keep my old unit and it will go with the car someday. I saw the same rad on ebay sell for 740.00 used.

PS: anyone know what that second number on the top tank stands for.
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maxwellwedge
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« Reply #14 on: May 19, 2017, 08:29:37 AM »

It is a vendor number.
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odcics2
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« Reply #15 on: May 19, 2017, 12:22:41 PM »

Thanks everyone.

I spoke with Bob earlier today at Glen Ray. Very nice man and patient with speaking to you on the phone. My car was built on day 318 according to Galen and date code on radiator is 3129 hence I believe it is original to car. I have sent photos to Bob to get more of his opinion on likelihood of restoring the original as it is in very good condition and was last serviced by Goldies Radiator in Sioux Falls back in September 2005.

Me - I would always restore an original component. 2thumbs

I agree.   cheers The ONLY way to restore a car. "OE" of OEM = "Original Equipment" = as it left the factory....    It's only original once.
Now, if you did not have the original rad, sure the second best thing is the currently available repop. From what I have seen, as close as original, without it being original.   Twocents 

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I've never owned anything but a MoPar. Can you say that?
oldchevelle541
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« Reply #16 on: June 03, 2017, 06:18:28 AM »

Does anyone know best place to purchase upper and lower radiator hoses and factory clamps. Not sure of part numbers, want to make sure correct ones are ordered.

Thanks again.
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maxwellwedge
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« Reply #17 on: June 05, 2017, 10:01:55 AM »

Frank Badalson   2thumbs

http://www.rogergibsonautorestoration.com/parts/parts-supply-home/
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #18 on: June 05, 2017, 10:57:51 AM »

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I'll ask anyway because it seems like shipping cost is always a consideration in buying or selling OEM radiators.  I had quite a few laying around too but knew the cores were bad.  I cut the cores out for scrap metal but saved the tops, bottoms and sides thinking maybe the shops did that  anyway in putting new cores in on numbers parts.  It that possible or what they do with people putting in bigger tubes etc in old components?  Seems like it would be a cheaper cost to cut them out and send in the other pieces for refit. 
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odcics2
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« Reply #19 on: June 17, 2017, 09:24:35 AM »

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I'll ask anyway because it seems like shipping cost is always a consideration in buying or selling OEM radiators.  I had quite a few laying around too but knew the cores were bad.  I cut the cores out for scrap metal but saved the tops, bottoms and sides thinking maybe the shops did that  anyway in putting new cores in on numbers parts.  It that possible or what they do with people putting in bigger tubes etc in old components?  Seems like it would be a cheaper cost to cut them out and send in the other pieces for refit. 

That's what was done in the old days and any local guy did it for you!  No shipping, day or 2 turnaround and WAY cheaper.

In your case, you can sell your tanks/sides and let the buyer have a core installed locally to him.   Twocents
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I've never owned anything but a MoPar. Can you say that?
oldcarnut
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« Reply #20 on: June 17, 2017, 09:33:50 AM »

I called Glen Ray and asked him about just sending tanks and sides and they sure no problem.
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