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Suspension install, order of operation

Started by Dino, July 11, 2017, 11:50:59 AM

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Dino

Yes it seems that I have forgotten much about this car. Damn life and its priorities....

So I just want to make sure that I do this right. At the moment I have my front suspension and steering just mocked up. The only thing I tightened down (without torquing) are the UCAs and upper ball joints (torqued). The torsion bars have yet to be installed. LCA and strut rods are in place but not tightened at all.

So what's the next step? Slide the torsion bars in place? If I recall, I need to have the suspension hang as low as possible when I insert the bars. Do they need to be keyed? Then I can tighten everything? The car won't be on its wheels for a while and I know that's when I do the torquing so in the meantime can I snug everything up and grease the joints or does it need to be on the ground first?
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

randy73

Mine is still not on its feet yet (waiting to order torsion bars), but my suspension is back in the car and tightened up. You will need the car on its feet to set ride height and alignment, but everything else should be able to do with car not sitting on its wheels.

Dino

Yeah I was just thinking I'm going to have to get the car on the ground first. Wasn't in the plan so time for some adaptation!
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Bronzedodge

The lower control arm stud is LAST, gets tightened with the ride height set or very close.  Weight on the tires.
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cdr

Quote from: Bronzedodge on July 11, 2017, 04:23:56 PM
The lower control arm stud is LAST, gets tightened with the ride height set or very close.  Weight on the tires.

same for the uppers
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Dino

Quote from: cdr on July 11, 2017, 04:28:56 PM
Quote from: Bronzedodge on July 11, 2017, 04:23:56 PM
The lower control arm stud is LAST, gets tightened with the ride height set or very close.  Weight on the tires.

same for the uppers

Okay, I loosen the uppers a bit then. Can I tighten everything so that it's almost snug though? It's more fun to work on when it's not all loose.

Thanks gents!  :cheers:
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

375instroke

The lower control arm pivot to K-frame needs the car's weight on it.  Ride height doesn't matter because the adjuster pivots the arm around the adjusting blade, but everything of weight should be installed.  Ride height should be set before torquing the upper control arm adjusters.  Depending on the type of strut rod bushings you are using, having the strut rod somewhat level to the ground will help to center the bushing, and prevent it from getting pinched as you torque it.  That's all I can think of.

Dino

Very helpful thank you!   :cheers:

I have the stock strut rod bushings. I simply turned both nuts on the rods enough so not to lose those nuts. I'll be sure to pay extra attention to those bushings when I tighten them.

I'll get my torsion bars painted over the weekend. I ordered the balloon seals and clips but they may take a while to get here. I don't have the brake rotors yet either but I can put the old Wilwoods on there for a while just so I can put the wheels back on and drop the car.

Which reminds me....

Once the suspension and steering components are all torqued I'm putting the car back on stands. Do I need to support the suspension at that time or can I let it hang? It'll be on stands for a long time... make that a very long time.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

randy73

Mine was hanging for over a year, not sure if this is best practice, but the whole suspension was rebuilt.