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Installing Dr Diff Stage 2 front disc break system

Started by green69rt, July 15, 2017, 08:52:11 AM

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green69rt

I just finished installing this kit.  Here is what happened.  Several posts here to start.

First a list of extra parts you will need to complete the job.

5/8 X 2 1/2 Grade 8 bolts with locking nuts.   Need two to attach the lower ball joint to the spindle. Pic #1
5/8 Hardened steel washers for spacers so the castle nuts will be at the correct height to engage the cotter pins.  Various thickness. Pic #2
Removable Loctite (if you like to use this stuff, I do.)
Upper and lower ball joints (If you don't want to use your old ones.)  Got mine at O Reilly Auto Parts.  

cdr

I just did the same thing on mine. I reused the original bolts.
LINK TO MY STORY http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/11/16/ride-shares-charlie-keel-battles-cancer-ms-to-build-brilliant-1968-dodge-charger/  
                                                                                           
68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
Charger55 by Charlie Keel, on Flickr

green69rt

Wrenches - 5/16, 15/16, 7/8, 1 1/16, 1/2, 5/8, 3/8  (Sockets or wrenches, some may need more than one.)
3/8 allen wrench or bit for the new 5/8 2 1/2 grade 8 bolts (if you bought new.)
3/16 allen wrench for dust shield screws.
Pliers for cotter pins
Torque wrench
Bearing grease packer

green69rt

Pic #1 - I started with this.
Pic #2 - coated the new spindle knuckle with RPM
Pic #3 - install zerk fitting into lower ball joint and bolt, w the new 5/8 grade 8 bolts (above), to the knuckle.  Tighten by hand, you'll torque it later.
Pic #4 - Mount knuckle to U & L control arms.  Here's where it get a little uncertain for me.  MY FSM said to torque the ball joint stud nuts to 50-80 ftlbs.  So I torqued to 60 then used extra torque to align the castle nuts with key ways so the cotter pins would go in.  I also used the appropriate washer so the the cotter key would completely engage the castle nut.   Then torque the lower ball joint to the knuckle to 120 ftlbs.

green69rt

Pic #1 - this is where you are now.
Pic #2 - attach dust shield with screws provided in kit.  I added a drop of loctite.
pic #3 - grease wheel bearings.
Pic #4 - install inner bearing and grease seal.  My discs came with an inner races installed so I just threw the ones that came with the bearings away.

green69rt

Pic #1 - install the caliper bracket and torque to 85 ftlbs with a drop of loctite.  Then mount the disc on the spindle, insert the front wheel bearing, grease shield (or washer), nut, nut retainer and cotter pin.  My FSM said torque the nut to 90 inlbs to preload the bearings.
Pic #2 - install the grease cup.
Pic #3 - The calipers come powder coated so you'll need to clean the surface that mates to the caliper brackets.
Pic #4 - bend the tabs on the shoes to make sure they grip the caliper tight so they don't rattle.  Instruction sheet.

green69rt

Pic #1 - install the caliper retaining clips per the instructions.
Pic #2 - Attach the flexible brake hose.  Now you are ready to attach the brake hose to the hard line.