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Author Topic: POSTING PICS AND UPDATES THE RESTORATION AS IT UNFOLDS ON MY 69 DAYTONA CLONE  (Read 1780 times)
kevs1969daytona
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« on: September 02, 2017, 02:12:28 PM »

Trying to figure out if my Clone has the correct size rear window also if it flat of curved glass ?? thanks


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WINGMAN
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« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2017, 02:36:52 PM »

  It is curved glass, what dimension is yours. Side to side, up and down. (Wingman)  Jay.
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69 Daytona XX29L9B409032 , 02 Ram Cummins,
kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2017, 03:11:33 PM »

Ok from the INSIDE of the chrome 42 1/2 by 20 1/2 I am pretty sure its just a regular charger back window. Ya just measured my 70 it's the same size.
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A383Wing
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« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2017, 06:37:55 PM »

looks like a stock tunnel back glass raised up and molded to a fastback style.....the OE Daytona & C500 rear glass is longer from top to bottom
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Moparsaver
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« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2017, 06:25:00 AM »

Great car Kevin.  Thanks for sharing.   What is the diagnosis on the engine noise?  Thanks Tom
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2017, 01:25:04 PM »

Looks like a bad rod, having the owner of a local speed shop come by today and give me a quote.  I have 2 extra engines to take as part trade for him.
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2017, 02:55:09 PM »

He just came by, he too thinks the rod is knocking, said for $7000 Cdn thats about $5600 USA plus all my engine parts from the 440 and 413.  His shop will replace the engine with about 425 hp, 440, balanced, new rad and cooling system R and R.  Will drop off the car on Thursday.   Will take a few weeks.
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white
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« Reply #7 on: September 03, 2017, 05:59:56 PM »

I just had a 440 rebuilt to stock spec but can run on unleaded for $3,900 USD in Feb this year. That included break in and dyno.
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #8 on: September 03, 2017, 06:31:49 PM »

It's Canada everything is expensive here, was quoted $16000 for a 500 hp motor from one shop
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white
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« Reply #9 on: September 03, 2017, 07:34:12 PM »

Sorry missed that part, your correct about it being more in Canada.
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aerolith
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Hot Rod Magazine picture of me, plus an old Mopar?


« Reply #10 on: September 04, 2017, 12:26:21 PM »

Thats crazy money for a 440 motor!
I can't get more than 3000 for a fully rebuilt 440 here in the UK!!! slap

Every one I build I lose money on, but hey, its better than watching the Simpsons... eek eek eek

If the exchange rate was better I would send you one of my 70 date coded engines, 500+hp and used to run tens in a street driven Roadrunner... 2thumbs
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alfaitalia
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« Reply #11 on: September 04, 2017, 02:36:23 PM »

3000..? For a stock factory style rebuild with stockish compression pistons and factory type power output?....or a tuned up build?
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aerolith
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« Reply #12 on: September 07, 2017, 01:50:05 PM »

Hi Alfa,
Every build is different so pricing is difficult to pin down.
Most UK 440's are ex jensen engines with HD rods and 8.2 to 1 pistons, they are in fact 1973-1976 hd truck engines with a 4bbl manifold.
When they put them in the MK111 Interceptors they were slower than the 383 MK11's.
This prompted a few real HP high comp engines to be built and put into super-rare Six-pack models, based on the 70-71 SP engine.

So when a 440 turns up its all about what it is and how much abuse it has had?
Date coded 68-71 440's are probably twice the price of cobbled up motors from a motorhome etc.
There are no 'bad' 440 blocks or post 67 iron heads, plus all 'steel crank' engines are of premium quality anyways.
The rest of the parts are down to budget, which can run and run and run.into thousands.

I rebuilt a low-comp 73 ex jenny 440 motor for 500 a while back and its still running good, ten years on!
I also built a 5000 race 440, that lasted about a week or two...

You win some you lose some... shruggy
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #13 on: September 08, 2017, 07:46:42 PM »

Just dropped off the entire 2 engines 440 and 413 plus tons of parts.  Cars in the shop (Pro Stock, performance, in Edmonton) about to get the engine (bad rod) pulled in these pics


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70 sublime
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next project 1969 Charger 383 auto


« Reply #14 on: September 08, 2017, 11:33:42 PM »

Progress

First picture I have seen under the hood
Do you have the part that fills the space between the rad support and the nose cone off or just never had one on your car ?
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #15 on: September 09, 2017, 07:06:06 AM »

no tray, the z brackets are way to close as well,have to spread them to put the signal lights in when the new grill comes
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white
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« Reply #16 on: September 09, 2017, 08:26:01 AM »

Nice car! Good thing you have all those extra engine parts. You will be up and running soon and with a smile on your face!
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #17 on: September 10, 2017, 01:41:02 AM »

Ya no tray on the front and totally agree the z brackets are way too close, when I send it to the body guy I will have to get them apart so the signal lights will fit.  What I am missing is as follows, wood grain steering wheel, 69 bucket front seats, the gas gauge is toast, the speedo does not work, front end about 2 inchs too high, the nose grill, 69 valiant signal lights, wing supports for the trunk, and need and probably the most expensive the rear plug/window is not right with rear window ( I have decided that I need to do it right, "in for a penny in for a pound") .  I have budgeted about $20000 to be correct.
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #18 on: September 13, 2017, 09:41:47 PM »

Took the engine out today will find out tomorrow what the real cause for the knock.  Also picked up a set of Valiant signal lights $200 cdn about $150 US.  Got them from a super nice guy owns a  flata auto wreck in Tilly Alberta, said he has 4 1969 valiant's in the yard.  He supposed to have tons of MOPAR parts.


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FJMG
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« Reply #19 on: September 14, 2017, 07:51:31 AM »

no tray, the z brackets are way to close as well,have to spread them to put the signal lights in when the new grill comes

Will you modify yours or will you be looking for repo Z-brackets?
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next project 1969 Charger 383 auto


« Reply #20 on: September 14, 2017, 10:36:07 AM »

Was the engine hoist long enough to lift the motor out over the nose cone or did it come out sideways over the fender ?
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #21 on: September 14, 2017, 06:28:45 PM »

I will ask about the engine removal, but to answer the the z brackets they are loose inside there, I will have to separate the z brackets.  Theres a different type of bracket in there not straight like others I have seen on this site,  the support brackets holding the nose on is at a 45 degree angle (will take some pics soon of the bracket).  So yesterday I went by the shop, the guy tells me he can't find the main caps for the date coded 70 440 block (which he tested and it's a good block) however, without the caps the block is worthless according to him.  He ask me if I have them.  I say "I will have a look". So when I get of of work last night at 0500 hrs, I find the main caps for the bearings on the shelf, ok cool no problems.  So at 4pm this afternoon I show up at the shop with the caps.  The guy dips his head and says "I just sent the block to the metal recycle's" we don't have enough room here he says. I say WTF !!!!!. So I rush over to this metal junk yard place, and luckily enough the block with a few other blocks are laying a a puddle of mud (wrecked my new running shoes in 1 foot of mud).   Even the guy who runs the yard was shaking his head.  They gave the shop $12 for a date code 1970 440 block.  Was not very happy.  The block is heading back to were it belongs  
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BLK 68 R/T
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« Reply #22 on: September 14, 2017, 07:07:18 PM »

Me thinks you need to find a new engine shop asap. They have proven what dumbshits they are! Would not trust them with anything!

Glad to got your block back though.
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FJMG
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« Reply #23 on: September 14, 2017, 09:46:26 PM »

Wait, what?...
THEY THROUGH OUT YOUR ENGINE BLOCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! flame RantExplode brickwall

And they did not respect you or your property enough to go retrieve it after you wanted it back?HuhHuh?

If you are seriously staying with them I think you need to let them know, in no uncertain terms, that ANYTHING, EVEN A BOLT, that they think is "worthless" be placed in a box and you will pick up at the end of the day.

What blk said; glad you got it back!
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #24 on: September 14, 2017, 10:35:50 PM »

Totally agree, I went by the shop, spoke with the owners daughter who works in the office.  Apparently this is turning into a big deal, I think someone is in huge trouble.  The shop owner is super pissed as well.   I took some pics of the brackets,  are these regular 1969 brackets Huh these are at a angle all the others I have ever seen come straight out.   One pic shows a little arrow were the hood pins are supposed to go.  The body shop will have to correct that.  They took the engine out pulling it out sideways, too long with the cone, hood stayed on guy said no issues. 


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70 sublime
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next project 1969 Charger 383 auto


« Reply #25 on: September 15, 2017, 03:59:48 AM »

Looks like part of the regular 69 bumper is still on the car
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DAY CLONA
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« Reply #26 on: September 15, 2017, 01:27:28 PM »

  I took some pics of the brackets,  are these regular 1969 brackets Huh these are at a angle all the others I have ever seen come straight out.  




What you have are fiberglass repro brackets/Z bars that have been "fubar'd", all the other steel brackets/braces and what appears to be the stock 70 Charger front bumper are all hiding in there, it appears they used the 70 Charger bumper as the hanging point as well as the construction point to create a Daytona nose..... FYI: factory Z bars are steel, they are supported by steel C frames that bolt on where the factory stock Charger front bumper brackets were, the latchtray bolts to the top of the Z bars and to a brace welded onto the front of the radiator yoke, I suspect the hidden bumper/brackets inside your nose cone are doing all the support work, you need to decide if your going to rip it all out?, or just fabricate what you need to do to mount a latchtray, your front directionals, etc, etc


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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #27 on: September 15, 2017, 06:02:19 PM »

Thanks I will need all this info when I send it off to the body shop.  I am sure they have never dealt with this kind of thing before  cheers
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #28 on: September 18, 2017, 02:33:38 PM »

So spoke with the engine shop, said my block (1973 block) is toast, something to do the the main oil port is done.  So guess what engine they are going to build up.  Yes the date coded 1970 block the one they through out.  Glad I went and got it from the metal recyclers.
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BLK 68 R/T
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68 Charger R/T, 493 stroker engine, 727 auto.


« Reply #29 on: September 18, 2017, 04:31:49 PM »

Make sure you get the other block back. I have a hard time believing anything can be wrong with an oil port on it judging by what they did with your other block. Even if the threads are messed up on the oil pickup, they can be drilled and tapped for a 1/2 oil pickup.
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #30 on: September 18, 2017, 07:32:26 PM »

I will double check thanks, something about the number 1 main being 50 thousand of  inch.  Way out of my league when it comes to old engines.
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Stevetona
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« Reply #31 on: September 19, 2017, 05:51:41 PM »

I'd be so pissed they took the block to the dump that I would take my business elsewhere even if it cost twice as much!
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #32 on: September 20, 2017, 03:07:15 PM »

Here's a picture of the heads getting done, we talked about getting headers for the car instead of regular exhaust manifolds, said maybe 45 more hp and better cooling.  Also looked at the engine that was knocking in the car, definitely bearing knock, the back main bearing was completely worn down.


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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #33 on: September 22, 2017, 07:56:19 AM »

So I was looking at my rear plug and hate it, way too high, I always seem to look at the worst part of my car when I am looking at it.  So I found a vega plug a little rusty at the bottom, but it should work, window is clean and chrome ok, I know I need to change the upper trunk molding with a "Plymouth Dutchman panel" I am not too sure were I would get one of those.  Getting parts for this car is becoming a pain in my ass.   I read ADM sells them for a few $100s, but what year and model would I get HuhHuh


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Dave Kanofsky
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« Reply #34 on: September 22, 2017, 10:15:48 AM »

I can't give any guidance on  the Vega/Dutchman panel, just wanted to encourage you to keep up the good work.  These cars can be a challenge, but are a blast when you drive them and make it all worth it.

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« Reply #35 on: September 22, 2017, 10:36:30 AM »

Think what you have to decide is did they cut the trunk lid off in a straight line ( easier to do and bend the edge over) or are you going to try to go more original look and make the front edge of trunk lid have a curve to it
On mine I think I can live with it just being straight
I have a couple 73 B body parts cars around and have been told the trunk filler on them will work to get the right shape for the gasket to sit in along the front edge
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #36 on: September 22, 2017, 11:11:01 AM »

Oh I thought with the vega window, it's absolutely necessary to get the Dutchman, I can live with a straight edge, most people would know the difference, I didn't when I saw it for the first time even having owned 2x 1970 chargers 1x 70 Challenger since the late 80's.  But now (since I been on this site) with that window being so high and not curved, it truly bugs the hell out of me.    icon_smile_dissapprove
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DAY CLONA
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« Reply #37 on: September 22, 2017, 10:31:37 PM »

Oh I thought with the vega window, it's absolutely necessary to get the Dutchman, I can live with a straight edge, most people would know the difference, I didn't when I saw it for the first time even having owned 2x 1970 chargers 1x 70 Challenger since the late 80's.  But now (since I been on this site) with that window being so high and not curved, it truly bugs the hell out of me.    icon_smile_dissapprove




If your going to do the Vega plug, and want to simulate the Daytona/Charger 500 trunk lid/Dutchman curvature, use the 71-74 RR/GTX/SAT/Charger B body dutchman panel (new are available from AMD) your only going to use the trunk gutter from the panel and graft it to the Vega plug
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #38 on: September 23, 2017, 06:34:37 AM »

Got ya thanks for the info
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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #39 on: September 23, 2017, 02:10:43 PM »

Went by the engine shop here's the 70 date coded 440 block they sent to the metal recyclers with the main caps on it lol, they start Monday rebuilding it. Also Got the 69 valiant signal lights (for the front cone) in today lens and body really good shape but the blubs had rusted to the inside of the blub reciprocal, easy fix I think.  


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kevs1969daytona
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« Reply #40 on: October 05, 2017, 06:35:32 PM »

Went by the engine shop they are almost done getting the engine together they are putting in Keith Black pistons, and Comp Cam Extreme Energy, considering TTI headers aswell instead of the H.P manifolds.  shruggy


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