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Author Topic: Newer type alternator. Pics.  (Read 18647 times)
dkn1997
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Long Island, NY


« Reply #75 on: December 07, 2009, 01:39:53 PM »

 I'll probably have to go your route because the electrical items will just keep getting added on. 

It gets better. They make this fuse box in larger sizes so If I run out of room, I can move up to the bigger one and just drill an extra hole.

  What made you decide to run an electric fuel pump, by the way?  Does it have to be regulated? 

I set up the fuel system for a holley projection I was running. When I put the carb back on, I had sold off my mechanical pump.  seemed easier to just put a carb electric pump on.  it's a mallory comp 110.  I don't think it has to be regulated, but I had the reg from when I was running a holley blue pump so I kept it.

  Also, are you still running the mechanical fan along with the electrical fans?

NO, just two 1300 cfm spal fans. no issues yet.  It's a monster evans radiator so that helps. 

Which H4 light kit did you use?

They are Hellas, got them on ebay. 150 bucks for all 4 housings with bulbs and adaptor pigtails included

Has it started snowing in New York yet?  Lol...

Not yet. but our warm spell is over and it's steadily in the high 30's low 40's now.  It will start soon. But her on Long Island, we dont' really get much snow so I can't complain. I can pretty much drive the charger through the winter if I want.
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myk
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« Reply #76 on: December 07, 2009, 02:03:52 PM »

You know I went to West Marine's site and didn't see your panel.  Do you have a part number?  

What you've done with the fans is something I've always been interested in.  If you're good with two 1300 cfm fans then I should be alright, even in San Diego heat, although...you do have a trick radiator though-I'm still running a stock 26".

By the way I wasn't sure if I could power things off of the starter relay, so thanks for clearing that up for me.  My 'alt output stud already has 4 ring terminals on it and it's getting REALLY crowded.

Now, if I were to wire in H4 bulbs, I noticed that some of the pre-fab wiring harnesses have 3 wires or connectors on them.  The way I have my halogens set up now with the relay upgrade I just did is with 4 connections: power in, out, ground and feed from the alternator.  How do you go about wiring in the new H4's? 

Finally, I asked about the snow because my 'ex moved out there and I've been waiting for the chance to tease her about the cold weather.  

Anyway, thanks for your input, the car and I appreciate it!

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dkn1997
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« Reply #77 on: December 07, 2009, 07:03:29 PM »

I don't know about that wiring on the amount of wires.  I actually used my stock harness coming out of my relays to the lights.  I may replace them, but I didn't. so my aftermarket headlights just plugged into them prettty much.

with the fans, i wouldn't worry about the radiator.  it's the quality of the fans.  use either spal or a factory OE fan out of a high performance car like a lincoln mark VIII, mercedes, etc... 
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mopar0166
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« Reply #78 on: August 25, 2014, 09:22:13 AM »

SO more of the same I recently upgraded my charging wiring to 8 GA and added a separate 12 source from the battery via an under dash switch for power/ fuses to all the non stock stuff.  I also made a new supply via 8 GA wire through a maxi a fuse to the Main splice to give the dash power. 

my question is I just bought the 120 amp alt because my 60 am p cant handle charging my battery with the load.  I am no going to upgrade to 4 GA wire.   can I route it directly to the battery or should I still junction it at the starter relay?  would be my first question

also I had my headlight relay harness connected to my starter relay for a constant 12 v source and the new dash splice supply wire to feed dash.  I have all these connections on a junction and then one line to the starter relay so If I run 4g wire directly to battery , I could then run a feed wire from the batter to the junction to feed the dash and headlight relays.?

any suggestions would be great   , thanks in advance
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1974dodgecharger
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« Reply #79 on: August 25, 2014, 09:26:21 PM »

you can go either way up to you I chose straight to the battery instead of the stud only because my wire is 3/000 welding wire.
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mopar0166
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« Reply #80 on: August 26, 2014, 11:43:04 AM »

sounds good, but the alt I got last night was not correct from the store so I have to go back . 

I see you went with the big 200 amp alt and fit ment issues , maybe I missed that ?
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1974dodgecharger
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« Reply #81 on: August 26, 2014, 11:36:43 PM »

180amp/320 output max. no fitment issues except bought a spacer at ACE hardware for 2.50 I believe an inch to extend it to align the belts correctly.
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mopar0166
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« Reply #82 on: August 27, 2014, 06:52:37 AM »

Yeha  I don't need that big of an alt but the work you did looks great!

Im waiting on the second attempt to get the alt I ordered sunday, after I get it tonight ill let you know how I made out.  thanks
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mopar0166
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« Reply #83 on: August 28, 2014, 07:56:22 AM »

well I've been trying since Sunday to get the right alternator, major disconnect in communications at the place I went.  luckily I knew the manager of the speed shop and he is resolving the issue with in. 

they tried telling me that part number 7552204 is the same as 13313, they are both 120 am p alternators but that's it.
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darbgnik
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« Reply #84 on: October 24, 2017, 08:25:17 PM »

OK, dredging up a super old thread here, but I'm gonna ask:

Did anyone notice when they ordered the Nippodenso alternator, from say, a 1988 D150 with a double v belt pulley already on it, that the pulley grooves are a little smaller than what comes on the car? Like maybe they're metric?
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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
darbgnik
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« Reply #85 on: October 26, 2017, 02:10:11 AM »

Well, the new alternator is in. Ended up buying some 1/4" gas nipples, hogging the inside out to 3/8 for a nice tight fit on the bolts, and cutting them to the length needed. I packed up the old spacers with the old alternator. Bought a shorter belt, a Gates 7440, and ran a 8 gauge power wire to the starter solenoid to take most of the load. I ended up welding a turn stop onto a 5/16 nut, and used a 2" long bolt on the adjuster side, so it's still a one man job to tension it.

Fired it up, and lo and behold, 14 volts at a low lopey idle, I'll call that a win. The belt definitely doesn't sit as low in the new pulley as the others, but it works.
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Brad

1970 Charger 500. Born a 318, AC, console auto, now 440/727
Build thread:  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,127291.0.html
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