News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Connecting the gauges?

Started by euroZ06, January 25, 2018, 01:33:45 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

euroZ06

Hi guys,

I recently bought a 68 charger, the car is in prestige condition and a lot of restoration work was done on it. The interior is all new, including all the gauges. It has tic-tac-toe as well. Once again, all gauges are new and all the lighting works. The fuel and temp gauge don't work, I think they are not connected  :shruggy: there are additional 3 additional gauges under the dash (aftermarket) Including temp gauge and vaccume. I would like to have the normal gauges to work, at leaaaast the fuel gauge.

Before I start taking anything apart, any ideas what my first step should be? Do I have to take out the whole panel or can I just take out the middle panel? Can I hook it up from under the dash? Would I need any hardware to make it work?

I'm not sure why these gauges weren't connected, as it seems everything else about the car is perfect and attention to detail is incredible (even has little rubber caps on sun visor slots). 
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

303 Mopar

A lot of guys install aftermarket gauges because they are more accurate than stock, and therefore switch the connection.  However, your fuel gauge should work although newer fuel sending units are not accurate.  I would start by grounding the sending unit at the tank and see if the gauge moves.  If it does not the gauge is broken.  If the gauge moves then you have a grounding issue, so start at the sending unit and work your way to the dash.
1968 Charger - 1970 Cuda - 1969 Sport Satellite Convertible

BLK 68 R/T

If you have the ignition on, and then ground the temp sensor wire (not more than a few seconds) the gauge should peg all the way hot. That will tell you if its a gauge problem or sending unit issue. Check the fuel sending unit wire with a test light, light will pulsate on and off if you are getting power to the sending unit.

euroZ06

So I need to remove the gauge cluster?

The aftermarket gauge cluster works, shows temp etc.

Is fuel sending unit under the car?
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

BLK 68 R/T

No need to remove the gauge cluster. How is the aftermarket temp gauge hooked up on the engine? is the factory one still there and a wire connected to it?
Fuel sending unit is in the front of the gas tank. Have to jack the rear of the car up.

euroZ06



Not sure what this is


The back of aftermarket gauges



From under the panel, u can see the little panel window. The thingy on the right seems to have a connected, and nothing is connected. I have a strong feeling that these gauges just need to be connected, but I don't know how and from where... would seem impossible without removing the cluster.
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

euroZ06

I think I'll have to push this to another time, not feeling too well.

My logic was to switch over the contacts from the aftermarket gauges and connect the fuel gauge, but I can't figure out what is what and where to plug it in.
68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

BLK 68 R/T

Doesn't look like your oil pressure is working either...

My guess is a bad instrument voltage regulator



Not sure what this is Looks like the capacitor for the ignition light




The small rectangle silver part that plugs into the back of the cluster housing is the voltage limiter for the gauges. It has a 12v input and 5v output for the gauges to operate on.
From under the panel, u can see the little panel window. The thingy on the right seems to have a connected, and nothing is connected. I have a strong feeling that these gauges just need to be connected, but I don't know how and from where... would seem impossible without removing the cluster.

[/quote]

euroZ06

Thank you. So on the gauge cluster the fuel/oil pressure/temp doesn't work, but alt works. On the aftermarket gauges the temp and oil pressure do work.

68 charger, 383, 727, 3.55

BLK 68 R/T

You will have to start by verifying that the factory gauges have their wiring all hooked up. Amp gauge is totally separate from the rest of the gauges. Also depending on how the aftermarket gauges are hooked up could have an effect on the rest of them. Although I can't see the fuel gauge wiring getting messed with to install aftermarket gauges??

Are they new reproduction gauges or restored "new" ones?