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Author Topic: Superbird Headlight Actuators  (Read 569 times)
rickroadrunner
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« on: January 28, 2018, 07:22:56 AM »

I have one headlight actuator with a slight leak. I'm considering buying 2 new actuators. I understand there is no supplier of Superbird/Daytona repop actuators , closest is 68 Charger.
Would I be better to have my originals rebuilt( I read in a thread, Wilson Productions, who restores air grabbers can do it)?
I was thinking it could be better to fit new units. There seem to be a few suppliers, with varying prices. They all seem to use part number 107-68A, or similar.
Are they all made by the same manufacturer?
Is the quality OK?
Thanks
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nascarxx29
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« Reply #1 on: January 28, 2018, 09:33:40 AM »

Use what works either 68 or required 961
Friend made it work with gto pods
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1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701
nascarxx29
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« Reply #2 on: January 28, 2018, 09:35:47 AM »

It mounts to this plate


* a2e23996.jpg (17.51 KB, 480x360 - viewed 289 times.)
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1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701
Charger-Bodie
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« Reply #3 on: January 28, 2018, 09:46:18 AM »

You would need a VERY healthy vac source to overcome the weight of the lids and the 68 internal magnet. Find good 69 style or get rebuilt.
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
69 Charger R/t B7 blue no vinyl top. White interior. Tailstripe delete. 472 Hemi 4 speed . 
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
DAY CLONA
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« Reply #4 on: January 28, 2018, 10:52:35 AM »

You would need a VERY healthy vac source to overcome the weight of the lids and the 68 internal magnet. Find good 69 style or get rebuilt.



You beat me to it Brian!, as said avoid any 68 units, the 69 unit has a smaller magnet internally, IIRC the 69 PN# cast on the pod is 2926691

All the aftermarket pods leak... if you can't find any, send your old ones to Wilson for repair, to test used pods, push the plunger rod all the way in, block the rear port, front port open and try and pull the plunger rod out/extended, if the rod pulls out all the way extended and stays there you have a ruptured diaphram or leak in the casing
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still winging it at www.officialdayclona.com
nascarxx29
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« Reply #5 on: January 28, 2018, 01:52:39 PM »

 I think the part number is #961 last three


* pods.jpg (5.46 KB, 160x120 - viewed 253 times.)
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1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701
Charger-Bodie
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« Reply #6 on: January 28, 2018, 02:14:54 PM »

I think the part number is #961 last three



Yup
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
69 Charger R/t B7 blue no vinyl top. White interior. Tailstripe delete. 472 Hemi 4 speed . 
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
rickroadrunner
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« Reply #7 on: January 29, 2018, 05:42:33 AM »

Thanks for your advice,I'll skip the aftermarket units.
 I spoke to Allen Wilson, he was very helpful and is sorting my problem.
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70Sbird
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« Reply #8 on: January 29, 2018, 09:25:37 AM »

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,41716.0.html
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Scott Faulkner
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« Reply #9 on: January 29, 2018, 09:27:06 AM »

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,46281.0.html
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Scott Faulkner
kw mopar
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« Reply #10 on: January 29, 2018, 12:32:07 PM »

Great timing for this thread. I also have a bad actuator. It has been several years since I finished the Daytona. Do I have to remove the entire nose cone to remove and replace the actuator? I did not really see any other way to get back in there. If so that is a lot of bolts that will get chipped paint. 
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DAY CLONA
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« Reply #11 on: January 30, 2018, 11:23:48 PM »

Great timing for this thread. I also have a bad actuator. It has been several years since I finished the Daytona. Do I have to remove the entire nose cone to remove and replace the actuator? I did not really see any other way to get back in there. If so that is a lot of bolts that will get chipped paint.  




If you have patience, and long arms and fingers, you can do it in car, remove the headlite bulbs and cups so you can access the pod's rod pin and clip on the headlite pivot frame to release the rod  by going thru the headlight holes in the fiberglass outer door, then depending on how long your reach is, remove the latchtray for a little more room to reach in the corner of the fender/cone area at the back of the headlite bucket to remove the 4 screws/washer assys shimming out the pod mounting plate, the pod will be attached to the plate by two 1/4-20 nuts, the pod and plate can come out as an assy, you'll need to undo the front vacuum line off the pod, as well as the rear line, chances are if you have the proper stack of washers on the 4 screws they will scatter all over, when you mount the new pod to the mounting plate, I would superglue the washer stacks to the plate, so that your only wrestling with the plate/pod and 4 screws trying to re-install the pod/plate assy,...if you can't access thru the latchtray/fender/cone area because your reach is short, remove the lower valance and work from under there, it's much easier, but just more stuff to remove from the car

Mike
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still winging it at www.officialdayclona.com
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