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Author Topic: Heater Box Restoration  (Read 47308 times)
Shakey
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1969 Dodge Charger R/T SE - 440 AUTO


« on: May 01, 2006, 07:10:28 AM »

Start off with a thanks to those who told me how simple it was to remove the heater box and offered their tips.  Not being sarcastic either, it was not difficult whatsoever.  Which makes me wonder why whoever did the bodywork on my car didn't take the time to remove it prior to sandblasting the body before priming and painting.  You can the mess I was dealing with.  Anyways....

Who here has restored their heater box?  Anyone have some advice they'd like to share?

Looking at the casing I see that it is made of fibreglass and that it is hidden pretty good under the dash.  Has anyone taken the time to sand it lightly and apply a fresh coat of paint?

I have the core here at work getting pressure tested and cleaned up.  I plan on lightly sandblasting all the metal pieces and painting them.

What about the insulation pad that mounts between the heater box & firewall?  Are they being reproduced correctly?

Please share some photos & tips.

Thanks in advance.



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ScottW
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« Reply #1 on: May 01, 2006, 11:11:20 AM »

Here's a Mopar Muscle article that may be of interest to you - it's for an A/C system but still has some good info.

As pointed out below, I forgot the link.   Embarrassed

http://moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/34500/



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1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1974 Dodge Charger SE 360/4v Sunroof
doctorpimp
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« Reply #2 on: May 01, 2006, 11:34:59 AM »

Here's a Mopar Muscle article that may be of interest to you - it's for an A/C system but still has some good info.


ahum
You forgot the link.
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'73 Coupe, 470, Keisler 5spd, 3.55 SG; Petty Blue; Hideaway Headlights.

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Dennis K
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« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2006, 09:25:38 PM »

If you want to restore the heater box, here's some parts you will need. Almost everyone sells the firewall insulation. Year One, Paddock, Harding's, Jack's, etc. http://www.restorick.com/products.asp
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Shakey
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« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2006, 06:09:30 AM »

Thanks for the links folks.
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nh_mopar_fan
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« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2006, 06:54:35 AM »

I'm about to tackle this myself on the wife's Valiant. Thanks for the info.

One question, the article mentions "dumb dumb" strips. Where do I buy those?
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ScottW
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« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2006, 07:24:34 AM »

I'm about to tackle this myself on the wife's Valiant. Thanks for the info.

One question, the article mentions "dumb dumb" strips. Where do I buy those?

It looks like RestoRick carriers that as well - look for heater box caulk on page 4 of the above link.
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1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1974 Dodge Charger SE 360/4v Sunroof
nh_mopar_fan
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« Reply #7 on: May 02, 2006, 07:45:44 AM »

Excellent. Thanks.

The front half (the firewall side) of my box is still mounted in the car. I'm hoping to leave it that way and replacing the core and the back side which is missing.
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doctorpimp
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« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2006, 10:44:21 AM »

Thanks icon_smile_big
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terrible one
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« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2006, 04:27:58 PM »

Great info guys
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grek
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« Reply #10 on: May 03, 2006, 10:19:01 PM »

I took my ac/ heater box apart and noticed there is insulation on the heater side (core) of the box and thin slabs of styro foam on the ac side (condensor).  I acquired some thin pieces of styro foam that will work great for replacing the old however what type of insulation should be used for the heater core side.

Thank you for all of the great info mentioned above.

Grek
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runningman
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« Reply #11 on: May 08, 2006, 08:04:47 AM »

I bought this kit from www.restorationfullcircle.com  but haven't used it yet.  Supposed to refinish the fiberglass
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runningman
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« Reply #12 on: May 08, 2006, 08:21:48 AM »

Also I have been using www.safestrustremover.com , this stuff is pretty cool.  If you have enough you could dip the whole unit inside and it would remove rust from the metal parts.  You could then use some clearcoat on them.  I just did my brake pedal assy, I will try to get some pics posted this week of the before and after.   
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defiance
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« Reply #13 on: May 12, 2006, 01:49:23 PM »

Curse you all!  You convinced me to pull out my box and check it out, now I find I've got a LOT of work to do!! Sad

(Actually, I'm VERY grateful for the info and inspiration!  If I didn't do this now, I would've had to pull it apart later when something came apart or started leaking or just didn't work)...
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Dodge Don
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« Reply #14 on: May 20, 2006, 07:26:14 AM »

Good info. I'm doing mine soon.
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terrible one
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« Reply #15 on: May 22, 2006, 09:33:57 AM »

Shakey, have you progressed on yours any? I think I speak for all of us when I say I would love some more pics yesnod
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ScottW
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« Reply #16 on: May 22, 2006, 10:51:08 AM »

Shakey, have you progressed on yours any? I think I speak for all of us when I say I would love some more pics yesnod

I second that motion!   yesnod
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1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1974 Dodge Charger SE 360/4v Sunroof
Shakey
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1969 Dodge Charger R/T SE - 440 AUTO


« Reply #17 on: May 23, 2006, 06:01:15 AM »

Hi Fellas,

I didn't do anything this past weekend as I was on a golfing trip with some of my buddies.  I did however do some work last weekend, the 13-14th. 

My heater core was NFG so I got a new one from YO.  My heater motor is OK, I have taken the air chuck and blown out some of the debris / sand and will apply a few drops of oil prior to installing it.  The wire wound resistor is NFG, I am having the electrical engineers here at work repair it for me, lucky me. 

As far as the box itself, I have taken it completely apart and my plan was to sand and paint everything.  Well, the sheet metal pieces were relatively easy.  Just light surface rust that was sanded with a somewhat fine sandpaper.  Thinking back, it was whatever was handy.  Some 400, maybe a bit of 800.   Just clean it up the best you can and get the majority of the surface rust off of the sheet metal.  Once it looks OK, clean it prior to priming it.  I use a lot of Eastwood's products.  I used PRE to clean it all before applying  the self-etching primer.

The sheet metal looks like it was just bare metal from the factory so I used Detail Gray from Eastwood.  I did make a mistake, as I painted all of the sheet metal the same gray colour when in fact one of the pieces, the one that holds the resistor in place and can be seen from inside the car on the passenger side is supposed to be black.  Not a big deal as I can cover the gray with black but just not thinking clearly while working on the car.

As far as the heater box housing goes I have decided to simply scrub and clean it rather than sand it all down.  Waaay to much work for something that no-one will see.  I will let you know how that works out.

I also did the fresh air box from the drivers side.  Simply removed it, took it all apart and washed it really good.  Dried it and painted it black.  I taped up the rubber gasket as I didn't want to have to replace it.

Here are some photos for you.  Maybe this upcoming weekend I will get to assemble eveything.


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terrible one
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« Reply #18 on: May 27, 2006, 09:38:53 PM »

VERY nice man! Thanks for taking time to share all of the information and post pictures!
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Dodge Don
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« Reply #19 on: May 29, 2006, 06:20:14 PM »

Mike......we both tracking on the same stuff  yesnod

http://1970chargerregistry.com/70messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=3171
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Shakey
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« Reply #20 on: June 11, 2006, 07:36:09 PM »

Finally finished.

Thanks again to all who helped.



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Just 6T9 CHGR
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« Reply #21 on: June 11, 2006, 07:46:31 PM »

Awesome!  cheers
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4402tuff4u
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« Reply #22 on: June 12, 2006, 06:05:54 AM »

You did a nice job Mike!! Looks fantastic!! 2thumbs
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« Reply #23 on: June 12, 2006, 06:19:00 AM »

 scope  nice job  thumbs
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Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
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Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
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C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
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Interesting pictures & Stuff 
  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.0.html
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694spdRT
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« Reply #24 on: June 12, 2006, 07:12:14 AM »

Looks very nice!  yesnod

I need to add that to the list of things to do someday.
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1969 Charger R/T 440 4 speed
1970 Charger 500 440 auto
1972 Challenger 318
1976 W200 Club Cab 4x4 400 auto 
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runningman
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« Reply #25 on: June 12, 2006, 10:11:46 AM »

awesome, hopefully mine will come out half as nice
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terrible one
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« Reply #26 on: June 12, 2006, 10:18:35 AM »

That looks way awesome man, congrats!
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Shakey
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« Reply #27 on: June 12, 2006, 10:39:37 AM »

Thanks guys!
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MadScientist
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« Reply #28 on: June 25, 2006, 10:19:46 PM »

what black did you user for the box?
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Shakey
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« Reply #29 on: June 26, 2006, 11:37:52 AM »

what black did you user for the box?

I used Flat Black.  Can't even remember the name brand.  Nothing fancy, just some cheap stuff at $8.00 CDN a can.  I figured it would be on a heater box that is tucked underneath and no one will see it.  I did give it about 2 - 3 coats though!
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dodgecharger-fan
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« Reply #30 on: June 27, 2006, 01:52:38 PM »

I'll bring mine up to you this afternoon, k?   Grin

Seriously, though, that looks real good. It inspires me to get my butt in gear.
As it happens, my heater box is in my way right now. Maybe restoring it as well as you have done will earn it a spot inside the house.  icon_smile_cool
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70sixpkrt
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« Reply #31 on: September 04, 2007, 10:32:45 PM »

I just found this post. Excellent information. Those grommets/hoses on the nipples of the heater core that go thru the firewall, are those foam or rubber?
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Dodge Don
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« Reply #32 on: October 03, 2007, 06:08:50 PM »

I just found this post. Excellent information. Those grommets/hoses on the nipples of the heater core that go thru the firewall, are those foam or rubber?

Foam
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bull
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« Reply #33 on: March 24, 2009, 08:06:41 AM »

what black did you user for the box?

I used Flat Black.  Can't even remember the name brand.  Nothing fancy, just some cheap stuff at $8.00 CDN a can.  I figured it would be on a heater box that is tucked underneath and no one will see it.  I did give it about 2 - 3 coats though!

Hey Shakey, did you mask off and paint the metal brackets attached to the fiberglass box where they were or did you remove, paint and replace them?
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Shakey
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« Reply #34 on: March 24, 2009, 02:33:35 PM »


I painted them first, let them dry and then taped them up and painted the box.
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bull
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« Reply #35 on: March 24, 2009, 06:52:26 PM »


I painted them first, let them dry and then taped them up and painted the box.

Thanks. One other thing I just thought of; did you just use an ohm meter to test the resistor and what is the resistance supposed to be?
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Shakey
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« Reply #36 on: March 25, 2009, 05:07:12 AM »


I painted them first, let them dry and then taped them up and painted the box.

Thanks. One other thing I just thought of; did you just use an ohm meter to test the resistor and what is the resistance supposed to be?

No.  My resistor was NFG so I grabbed a spare during one of my salvage yard tours.  I tested the motor and made sure the wheel was balanced before I installed it.  After I installed it into the box, I tested it again.

No idea what the resistance was/is supposed to be.  Perhaps one of the electrical guys can step in tell us both.
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bull
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« Reply #37 on: March 25, 2009, 06:12:55 AM »


I painted them first, let them dry and then taped them up and painted the box.

Thanks. One other thing I just thought of; did you just use an ohm meter to test the resistor and what is the resistance supposed to be?

No.  My resistor was NFG so I grabbed a spare during one of my salvage yard tours.  I tested the motor and made sure the wheel was balanced before I installed it.  After I installed it into the box, I tested it again.

No idea what the resistance was/is supposed to be.  Perhaps one of the electrical guys can step in tell us both.


Did you just hook the motor up to a 12v source to test it? I'm thinking of just getting a new one anyway. Autozone sells them new, not rebuilt, for $20 and they carry a lifetime warranty. Of course a warranty doesn't pull the motor back out of the box and put it in for you if it fails.
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Shakey
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« Reply #38 on: March 25, 2009, 08:35:20 AM »


I painted them first, let them dry and then taped them up and painted the box.

Thanks. One other thing I just thought of; did you just use an ohm meter to test the resistor and what is the resistance supposed to be?

No.  My resistor was NFG so I grabbed a spare during one of my salvage yard tours.  I tested the motor and made sure the wheel was balanced before I installed it.  After I installed it into the box, I tested it again.

No idea what the resistance was/is supposed to be.  Perhaps one of the electrical guys can step in tell us both.


Did you just hook the motor up to a 12v source to test it? I'm thinking of just getting a new one anyway. Autozone sells them new, not rebuilt, for $20 and they carry a lifetime warranty. Of course a warranty doesn't pull the motor back out of the box and put it in for you if it fails.

Hooked it up to the car battery.
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lexxman
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« Reply #39 on: March 25, 2009, 06:22:20 PM »

That likes great I can't wait to do mine now.
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GF7Bee
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« Reply #40 on: August 08, 2013, 08:47:15 AM »

Can you help me with the way the vacuum lines go to each actuator? I think the mechanic I had messed them up as mine no longer goes to max a/c from a/c. Thanks.
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shovelcharger
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« Reply #41 on: September 17, 2013, 06:45:19 AM »

Over the summer i just refurbisher the heater box in my 69. I cleaned and repainted the metal parts but as for the fiberglass, it didnt have paint on it to begin with so i spent about a day cleaning the crap out of it and it looks great. Dont know how far you are into it by now but figured id throw my 2cents in.
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« Reply #42 on: September 17, 2013, 07:57:27 PM »

Mine is all done and waiting to go back into the car. Now I just need to finish the car. yesnod
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dodgedarren
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« Reply #43 on: November 18, 2013, 10:12:49 PM »

Finally finished.

Thanks again to all who helped.




Shakey, I did a complete resto on my non-A/C heater box but forgot how to wire it back up. Any pics or onformation would be much appreciated.
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MxRacer855
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« Reply #44 on: December 04, 2013, 09:01:26 PM »

Did you drill the rivets that are connecting the steel brackets to the fiberglass out? I'm currently giving mine a go after I saw this and have to pull it out to replace the heater core anyway. LOOKS AMAZING! I just don't know what to do with those steel brackets. shruggy
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dodgedarren
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« Reply #45 on: December 10, 2013, 09:43:06 AM »


I painted them first, let them dry and then taped them up and painted the box.

Thanks. One other thing I just thought of; did you just use an ohm meter to test the resistor and what is the resistance supposed to be?

No.  My resistor was NFG so I grabbed a spare during one of my salvage yard tours.  I tested the motor and made sure the wheel was balanced before I installed it.  After I installed it into the box, I tested it again.

No idea what the resistance was/is supposed to be.  Perhaps one of the electrical guys can step in tell us both.


Did you just hook the motor up to a 12v source to test it? I'm thinking of just getting a new one anyway. Autozone sells them new, not rebuilt, for $20 and they carry a lifetime warranty. Of course a warranty doesn't pull the motor back out of the box and put it in for you if it fails.

Hooked it up to the car battery.


Shakey, I did a complete resto on my non-A/C heater box but forgot how to wire it back up. Any pics or onformation would be much appreciated.
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Ghoste
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« Reply #46 on: December 10, 2013, 12:27:37 PM »

I don't think Shakey has been on here in over a year.
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« Reply #47 on: April 15, 2014, 05:52:29 AM »

I should have thought of that effort when I had mine out.
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birdsandbees
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« Reply #48 on: March 12, 2016, 03:21:11 PM »

In process of doing mine, does anyone know what these decals looked like originally??


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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
birdsandbees
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« Reply #49 on: March 13, 2016, 11:53:33 AM »

Anyone ?  shruggy

Also be aware that Detroit Muscle's heater box refurbishment kit does not include a blower motor rubber mounting seal. If yours is like mine you'll be needing to find, order and secure one to put the box back together. Currently working on that.

Also note in the classifieds that I'm looking for the fresh air box, passenger side, cable bracket that rivets to the fiberglass heat box assembly.
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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
birdsandbees
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« Reply #50 on: March 15, 2016, 10:13:56 AM »

Does anyone know where you can get the moulded rubber blower motor mounting gasket for the '69 B body heat box??? Can't find as much as even a picture of one Googling. Closest I've found is a Ford gasket from Denis Carpenter Ford Restoration Parts

Also anyone on what those stickers would have been??  shruggy
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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
72Charger72
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« Reply #51 on: March 15, 2016, 10:41:21 AM »

Not sure if this would help if you cant find the gasket.....just posted by b5blue
For odd ball stuff like that I use "Sugru". It's like putty that hardens to rubber.
https://sugru.com
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birdsandbees
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« Reply #52 on: March 15, 2016, 07:53:26 PM »

Thanks, fixed up what I had so I could complete the box and move onto my dash next.


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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
birdsandbees
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« Reply #53 on: March 17, 2016, 09:37:46 PM »

Rubbed the metal down with gun oil today. What a visual difference and shouldn't rust again in my life time. Probably should have done the inside as well, but I'm not pulling it back apart!  rotz


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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
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« Reply #54 on: October 24, 2016, 06:35:43 PM »

Does anyone know what these two "decals" would have been originally on the '69 heater box. Lynch Rd car...



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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
Charger-Bodie
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« Reply #55 on: October 24, 2016, 08:25:52 PM »

Not factory to my knowledge .
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
birdsandbees
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« Reply #56 on: October 24, 2016, 08:30:50 PM »

Cars been in my family it's entire life... nobody put them there. Definitely some mfg stickers / part number or something. I media blasted them off when I restored the box. Just hoping someone has an idea what should be on a '69 box to be correct. My '70 'Bird box has a stamped part number. My '69 Bee never had same, just these stickers.
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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
moparnation74
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« Reply #57 on: October 25, 2016, 11:37:39 AM »

Never seen those two decals...

Both of my 69's has the PN Stamp....One had the paper "Factory OK" tag on the heat control arm on top of the box(was suppose to be removed on the assembly line)

Beautiful job on the box BTW 2thumbs
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birdsandbees
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« Reply #58 on: October 25, 2016, 01:36:22 PM »

Thanks, is it the same part number stamp as the '70? The one in my 'Bird is factory stamped still...
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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
moparnation74
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« Reply #59 on: October 25, 2016, 01:47:33 PM »

They are different......your welcome to borrow my stamp, just cover shipping....

It is 2837500
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birdsandbees
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« Reply #60 on: October 25, 2016, 02:00:12 PM »

They are different......your welcome to borrow my stamp, just cover shipping....

It is 2837500

THANKS! very much, I will keep it in mind as I work towards final assembly. Might be cheaper to have the local stationary guy make me one vs the postage from Texas to here and back, but we'll see. Again thanks for the offer!!  2thumbs

To edit.. just ordered a stamp online thru staples for $21 Cdn to my door. Will see how close it is to correct when I get it..  scratchchin
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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
birdsandbees
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« Reply #61 on: November 05, 2016, 01:07:12 PM »

What colour paint are you guys using for the stamp? Got my stamp already.. and want to give it a trial run..   yesnod
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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
birdsandbees
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« Reply #62 on: December 30, 2016, 08:23:19 PM »

Guess I'll just color match to the stamp on my '70 Bird box, thought someone would have a color for stamping..
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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
chargedup68
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« Reply #63 on: December 20, 2017, 09:03:33 PM »

Shakey, thanks for sharing the process!  Going to tackle mine after Christmas.
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68 Charger, 608/683 505 cu in. Muscle Motors Stroker, MASS Flo EFI. Reilly Motorsports Alterkation/Street Lynx suspension, Wilwood brakes, Strange Dana 60 4.11 gears, Tremec TKO 600
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« Reply #64 on: January 01, 2018, 11:16:17 AM »

Took me all weekend, but I got it taken apart cleaned up and put back together.  The 50 year old fiberglass is brittle so my advice after doing this is be gentle!  I tightened down the fasteners just a little bit at a time all the way around the perimeter like I would if I was torquing a head since the new foam fits in snug.  Also, take lots of pictures as you go it will make the reassembly much easier.  I checked the fan motor and it was still good so lubed it up and put it back in.  My heater core was bad, but fortunately I had a spare so it got the fresh one.


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* alort432.jpg (109.02 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 1561 times.)

* alpdfe4.jpg (89.62 KB, 1280x960 - viewed 1599 times.)
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68 Charger, 608/683 505 cu in. Muscle Motors Stroker, MASS Flo EFI. Reilly Motorsports Alterkation/Street Lynx suspension, Wilwood brakes, Strange Dana 60 4.11 gears, Tremec TKO 600
66FBCharger
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« Reply #65 on: January 16, 2019, 03:58:59 PM »

Guess I'll just color match to the stamp on my '70 Bird box, thought someone would have a color for stamping..
So birds and bees, Can u tell me what you used for the yellow paint for the part number stamp? A brand and part number or description would be a great help. I'm redoing my heater box now and would like to have the paint for when I'm ready to stamp the part number.
Thanks in advance for the info.
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'69 Charger R/T 440 4 speed T5, '70 Road Runner 440+6 4 speed, '73 'Cuda 340 4 speed, '66 Charger 383 Auto
SOLD!:'69 Charger R/T S.E. 440 4 speed 3.54 Dana rolling body
birdsandbees
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« Reply #66 on: January 16, 2019, 05:19:48 PM »

Some can of yellow I had sitting on the shelf in the shop, I'll have to see it I wrote it down in my log.  That said I've since been kicking my ass as I asked many if they'd ever seen a paper sticker like mine had on the cover and everyone said no. I have since learned that this was a QC sticker and the part number may have been printed on the longer label and not stamped. Oh well.. it looks purdy!  lol


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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
69bfan
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« Reply #67 on: January 16, 2019, 07:35:01 PM »

In reading the various post on this subject in regards to the two paper tags, the A12 guys may have some input on the actual contents of what was printed on the tags.  Personally, I do not recall seeing them before.  They could very well be as you state some sort of quality control check.  Very interesting piece of history to be further researched.
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Restoration Parts and Materials
Weatherstripping is our specialty, but we stock a wide assortment of restoration needs.
www.restorationpartsandmaterials.com
66FBCharger
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« Reply #68 on: January 17, 2019, 09:25:03 AM »

Some can of yellow I had sitting on the shelf in the shop, I'll have to see it I wrote it down in my log.  That said I've since been kicking my ass as I asked many if they'd ever seen a paper sticker like mine had on the cover and everyone said no. I have since learned that this was a QC sticker and the part number may have been printed on the longer label and not stamped. Oh well.. it looks purdy!  lol
Thanks birdsandbees. I want to match the yellow before I strip the paint off. if you could find any info on the yellow you used for the stamp, it would be greatly appreciated.
John
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'69 Charger R/T 440 4 speed T5, '70 Road Runner 440+6 4 speed, '73 'Cuda 340 4 speed, '66 Charger 383 Auto
SOLD!:'69 Charger R/T S.E. 440 4 speed 3.54 Dana rolling body
birdsandbees
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« Reply #69 on: January 17, 2019, 01:59:08 PM »

I'm not going to certify that the colour is OE correct, but I held my test stamp (on black headliner material) up against my super birds heater box stamp and it's damn close, especially allowing 49 years for fade!

Krylon Fusion for plastic. Sunbeam 42330. I sprayed it out of the can onto a piece of cardboard, dipped the stamp and did a few test stamps to get it wet, Then new spray, dip.. stamp box.
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1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487
rikubot
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« Reply #70 on: May 11, 2020, 11:50:44 PM »

I know this is a pretty old thread but I thought the answer to my question might add some good information to it.

What kind of rivets do I used to replace the ones Iím going to drill out? Iím fairly certain that they are called ďsemi-hollow truss rivetsĒ but I am not sure what size and what tool to use and where to get the rivets.
Thanks in advance.
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'69 Charger, 440/727
rikubot
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« Reply #71 on: May 12, 2020, 08:32:32 PM »

I also noticed that the rivets are steel, not aluminum. Do I need to use stainless steel rivets?
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'69 Charger, 440/727
Texasdoc
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« Reply #72 on: November 20, 2021, 02:41:28 PM »

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/mopar-b-body-66-70-72-93-dodge-truck-non-ac-heater-blower-motor-gasket/

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/69-charger/

https://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/
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https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/members/69chargerr-tse.36841/
Spend the money and do it right the first time, or spend more money and do it over, so it's right.
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« Reply #73 on: February 10, 2022, 07:40:36 PM »

Guess I'll just color match to the stamp on my '70 Bird box, thought someone would have a color for stamping..
So birds and bees, Can u tell me what you used for the yellow paint for the part number stamp? A brand and part number or description would be a great help. I'm redoing my heater box now and would like to have the paint for when I'm ready to stamp the part number.
Thanks in advance for the info.


https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Acrylic-Craft-Paints/FolkArt-Acrylic-Paint/p/192
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https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/members/69chargerr-tse.36841/
Spend the money and do it right the first time, or spend more money and do it over, so it's right.
66FBCharger
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« Reply #74 on: February 11, 2022, 06:31:52 AM »

Guess I'll just color match to the stamp on my '70 Bird box, thought someone would have a color for stamping..
So birds and bees, Can u tell me what you used for the yellow paint for the part number stamp? A brand and part number or description would be a great help. I'm redoing my heater box now and would like to have the paint for when I'm ready to stamp the part number.
Thanks in advance for the info.


https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Stencils-Craft-Paints/Acrylic-Craft-Paints/FolkArt-Acrylic-Paint/p/192


Thanks Texasdoc!
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'69 Charger R/T 440 4 speed T5, '70 Road Runner 440+6 4 speed, '73 'Cuda 340 4 speed, '66 Charger 383 Auto
SOLD!:'69 Charger R/T S.E. 440 4 speed 3.54 Dana rolling body
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