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Road race 4 links

Started by J-440, May 11, 2018, 06:26:52 PM

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J-440

 Was comparing 4 link rear ends and was wondering what some of ya'll use.  I've built the car for road racing and am getting rid of the ladder bar setup I have now.  Thoughts?
68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede

myk

Wow I don't think anyone here uses a 4 link....
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JB400


Lennard

I have a Ride-tech 4 link under my '68 but the car isn't finished yet so i have no experience driving with it.

J-440

 Yeah I guess these old farts don't like to turn!! :icon_smile_big: I was looking at the RideTech and it looked like a solid kit for the price.  I guess you bolt it in then weld the critical parts?
68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede

Lennard

Quote from: J-440 on May 12, 2018, 11:48:05 AM
Yeah I guess these old farts don't like to turn!! :icon_smile_big: I was looking at the RideTech and it looked like a solid kit for the price.  I guess you bolt it in then weld the critical parts?
Chris (cbrestorations) is building my car and he welded it in. He also thought that it didn't fit tight enough between the frame rails, so he cut up my $1400 kit and made it fit better.  :icon_smile_big:

Start the video at 7 minutes and 50 seconds and you'll see the 4 link bars welded to the frame:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=bWAujohZG4c

JR

I was just about to say cbrestorations is the member to ask here.

I'm all for the cornering improvements, I want a car that can handle. I just don't have the budget for anything really trick at the moment. :icon_smile_big:
70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

myk

Same here.  It's in the plans though.   Hotchkiss will fill the gaps for now...
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RallyeMike

QuoteYeah I guess these old farts don't like to turn!! icon_smile_big

I guess maybe I'm an ancient fart  :rotz:  I like to turn but I'm happy on leaf springs with a sway bar.

Would love to see pics of your installation when it gets going.
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

HPP

if you are road racing it, do you have a rule set you have to be compliant with or are we talking about open track days with no limitation?

Biggest thing with a 4 link turning left and right is to make sure you have one that doesn't bind up with body roll and allows full suspension articulation with a minimal amount of geometric changes through the range of motion. A number of racing doobies prefer three links over four links for these reasons.

J-440

 Well to be honest the car will be 70/30 use.  70 street and 30 road coarse/autocross.  Checked out Magnumforce's setup and it's a little pricey but hey, I've come this far right?  Just getting opinions. 
68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede

Rolling_Thunder

I don't consider myself an "old fart" and I do like a good handling car...      if you're so hard pushed to modify your rear suspension why go with a 4-link?  you can use a truck arm suspension, Watts link, IRS, etc etc....      Most of the pro-touring guys seem to be going to the Watts link set up - a bit pricey but probably the best system from what I've seen / heard from others....      before that it was the truck arm suspension


I'm completely happy with my leafs and sway bar - honestly they are predictable, simple, and they push my charger to about where I am comfortable on a course.

If I was building a lighter / smaller car like a duster I would go a different route - I personally dont think my charger belongs on a road course - lots of metal to whip around.
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

J-440

 What would the benefits of a Watts linkage be over a 4 link?  Better geometry and more options for handling?
68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede

Rolling_Thunder

The Watts link provides a very linear movement of the differential - it also uses a central pivot with connected arms - this allows the diff to move up and down and stay completely centered - they usually employ coil overs mounted to either tube and some sort of forward anchor point - either a single panhard bar or truck arms or other....      the Watts basically just adds precision to the suspension and allows effectively 0 deflection / shift
1968 Dodge Charger - 6.1L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.55 Sure Grip

2013 Dodge Challenger R/T - 5.7L Hemi / 6-speed / 3.73 Limited Slip

1964 Dodge Polara 500 - 440 / 4-speed / 3.91 Sure Grip

1973 Dodge Challenger Rallye - 340 / A-518 / 3.23 Sure Grip

HPP

A watts link is only one part of a link suspension. Its the equivilent of a panhard bar, part of a suspension but not the whole thing.  A panhard bar moves in an arc, a watts link moves in an even plane. Even a watts link suspension will need a 3 or 4 link or truck arm to suspend and llocate the rest of the system.

IMO, a very capable suspension can be built on  leaf springs. If you want additional adjustability, you can swap the front bushings for  eye pivots and add an adjustable panhard or watts. Biggest drawbacks to leaf springs are simply their weight and the complexity of swapping them to change rates. The original race AAR and TA used these type of suspensions with  panhards and watts. Dodge used the watts initially but swapped to a panhard after a few races.

I  don't think many of the aftermarket link style suspension offer much in adjustability other than ride height and spring rates, except for drag racing four links which  have a pretty broad range.  Most other street oriented ones are install it and forget it.

Places to research alternate rear suspensions: Alterkation, Magnumforce, Hemi Denny, XV, Freak Ride, Hot Rods from Hell, QA1, Unlawful Racing. None are going to be particularly inexpensive, but, then  again, neither is a really good leaf set up either.

J-440

 Some good info.  Thanks for the input.
68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede

1974dodgecharger

Quote from: HPP on May 26, 2018, 10:18:29 AM
A watts link is only one part of a link suspension. Its the equivilent of a panhard bar, part of a suspension but not the whole thing.  A panhard bar moves in an arc, a watts link moves in an even plane. Even a watts link suspension will need a 3 or 4 link or truck arm to suspend and llocate the rest of the system.

IMO, a very capable suspension can be built on  leaf springs. If you want additional adjustability, you can swap the front bushings for  eye pivots and add an adjustable panhard or watts. Biggest drawbacks to leaf springs are simply their weight and the complexity of swapping them to change rates. The original race AAR and TA used these type of suspensions with  panhards and watts. Dodge used the watts initially but swapped to a panhard after a few races.

I  don't think many of the aftermarket link style suspension offer much in adjustability other than ride height and spring rates, except for drag racing four links which  have a pretty broad range.  Most other street oriented ones are install it and forget it.

Places to research alternate rear suspensions: Alterkation, Magnumforce, Hemi Denny, XV, Freak Ride, Hot Rods from Hell, QA1, Unlawful Racing. None are going to be particularly inexpensive, but, then  again, neither is a really good leaf set up either.

I personally wouldn't get a mangumforce based on personal experience with them and customer service, but RMS the owner Bill is a great guy with great customer service.

J-440

 I was leading toward the Ridetech setup.  I also want to use their bolt on magnetic ride shock system.  Shit ain't cheap though.  Looks like I have a lot of overtime to work...or dip into the kid's college fund. :2thumbs:
68 R/T, 440/727 6-speed, SC G-machine...black suede