News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

How does an a-pillar molding go on?

Started by 69bronzeT5, May 13, 2008, 10:20:19 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

69bronzeT5

Hey guys. I'm just toying around with some ideas here for my car. I'm really considering rocker moldings and a-pillar moldings. How does an a-pillar molding go on?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

kab69440

You mean a 500/ Daytona style piece? You drill holes in the rain channel and screw it to that. Rocker mouldings are attatched via plastic retaining clips.
Imagination was given to man to compensate him for what he is not;  a sense of humor to console him for what he is.      Francis Bacon

WANT TO BUY:
Looking for a CD by  'The Sub-Mersians'  entitled "Raw Love Songs From My Garage To Your Bedroom"

Also, any of the various surf-revival compilation albums this band has contributed to.
Thank you,    Kenny

Jesus drove a Honda. He wasn't proud of it, though...
John 12: 49     "...for I did not speak of my own Accord."

hotrod98

You have to remove the factory molding before installing the new molding.


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

69bronzeT5

Quote from: hotrod98 on May 14, 2008, 10:54:58 AM
You have to remove the factory molding before installing the new molding.

Remove just the trim or remove the channels?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

daytonalo


hotrod98

Just remove the one piece of slender trim. The new molding fits right into place. There should be tabs on the edge with holes for screws. I've seen a few variations of the originals.
The superbird version uses two additional screws in the face of the molding. Maybe they thought that they would stay on better...don't know.


Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams

69bronzeT5

So how much customization would be needed to stick a-pillar moldings onto my base '69? Which trim would need to be removed?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

hemigeno

Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on May 14, 2008, 03:57:51 PM
Which trim would need to be removed?

Piece to be removed is marked with the yellow arrow...

:cheers:

CornDogsCharger

1966 Dodge Charger
1969 Dodge Charger (DMCL Project)
1969 Dodge Charger (WB General Lee "GL#004")
1969 Dodge Super Bee

A383Wing

I didn't think the Daytona's had the screws holding them in......I thought only the 'Birds were attached this way?

Bryan   :scratchchin:

pettybird

Quote from: A383Wing on May 14, 2008, 08:14:15 PM
I didn't think the Daytona's had the screws holding them in......I thought only the 'Birds were attached this way?

Bryan   :scratchchin:



that IS a bird


the racers screwed them down on the aero cars...they sure are a lot easier to install that way!

69bronzeT5

Quote from: hemigeno on May 14, 2008, 05:14:15 PM
Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on May 14, 2008, 03:57:51 PM
Which trim would need to be removed?

Piece to be removed is marked with the yellow arrow...

:cheers:

So the trim there is removed...but is the built in channel (on the body) removed too?
Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

hemigeno

Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on May 14, 2008, 11:36:25 PM
So the trim there is removed...but is the built in channel (on the body) removed too?

:scratchchin:

Well, seeing as how that is a Daytona in the picture, I'd say no...    ;)

You can see in the picture below that there are tabs on one side of the mouldings.  These get jammed in between the windshield weatherstrip and its lockstrip.  They ran the screws right through the weatherstrip and into the A Pillar.  You'd be able to see the screws on every Daytona if they hadn't goobered up the weatherstrip with black caulk to seal things up.

On the back side, the screws (you can see the holes for them in the A Pillar mouldings) are also fastened to the A pillar, basically on the backside of the built-in channel you asked about.

Word to the wise... be very careful installing the A-Pillar trim on a painted car.  If the moulding isn't positioned just right, when you go to close the door the top front of the door will catch the bottom of the A-Pillar Trim.  Heard some horror stories about that...

:cheers:


69bronzeT5

Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1970 Challenger R/T: FC7 Plum Crazy 440 Automatic
1970 GTO: Black 400 Ram Air III 4-Speed
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
1972 Charger: FE5 Red 360 Automatic
1973 Charger Rallye: FY1 Top Banana 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Road Runner: FE5 Red 440 Automatic
1973 Plymouth Duster: FC7 Plum Crazy 318 Automatic

Old Moparz

If I recall, daytonalo (Larry) made some that mount differently from the stock ones. Search his threads & I'm sure you'll find it.
               Bob                



              I Gotta Stop Taking The Bus

metallicareload99

Quote from: hemigeno on May 14, 2008, 05:14:15 PM
Quote from: 69bronzeT5 on May 14, 2008, 03:57:51 PM
Which trim would need to be removed?

Piece to be removed is marked with the yellow arrow...

:cheers:


Does that piece of stainless below the arrow or further in to the door jam need to be removed in order to install the Daytona A pillar moulding?  And then that same piece gets reinstalled?



Also, I'm 99% sure I know the answer to this obvious question but, if the car never came from the factory with these moldings, then I will have to drill holes for the screws right?  I.E. the holes in the moldings will not line up with any existing holes on a non Daytona/500.

Lastly, should this piece of stainless also be removed?



Thanks for any help/advice!
1968, When Dinosaurs Ruled The Earth

hemi68charger

metallicareload99:

If you want to put the wind deflectors in with the least amount of trouble, just go ahead and removed the upper door seal channel.. It is very easy.. The rubber basically pushes into the channel, remove it to gain access to the multiple philips-head screws holding it in place. If you already have the windshield removed along with the vertical drip-trough and window molding on either side of the windshield, then you're set. Just lay the deflector over the a-pillar and mark your six spots to drill a hole for the attach screws. Now, Creative didn't move the rubber seal channel I believe, they just removed the two vertical moldings, positioned the deflector and forced the screws into place. On every Dodge AeroCar I have ever owned, you can see the scratch marks on the seal channels right where the deflector attach tabs are....

Cheers,
Troy
'69 Charger Daytona 440 auto 4.10 Dana ( now 426 HEMI )
'70 Superbird 426 Hemi auto: Lindsley Bonneville Salt Flat world record holder (220.2mph)
Houston Mopar Club Connection

metallicareload99

Quote from: hemi68charger on June 08, 2018, 11:44:24 AM
metallicareload99:

If you want to put the wind deflectors in with the least amount of trouble, just go ahead and removed the upper door seal channel.. It is very easy.. The rubber basically pushes into the channel, remove it to gain access to the multiple philips-head screws holding it in place. If you already have the windshield removed along with the vertical drip-trough and window molding on either side of the windshield, then you're set. Just lay the deflector over the a-pillar and mark your six spots to drill a hole for the attach screws. Now, Creative didn't move the rubber seal channel I believe, they just removed the two vertical moldings, positioned the deflector and forced the screws into place. On every Dodge AeroCar I have ever owned, you can see the scratch marks on the seal channels right where the deflector attach tabs are....

Cheers,

Thanks for the info, got em installed!
1968, When Dinosaurs Ruled The Earth