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Seperating Spindle from upper ball joint...Tricks???? :-(

Started by AKcharger, June 15, 2018, 06:12:28 PM

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AKcharger

Hey Guys I'm stuck here. Doing the A-body disc mod and can't get the spindle off the ball joint. I've tried two forks and I bottom both of them out...Suggestions?

- Jack is just positioned under it, full spring tension is pulling down on the spindle
- Same issue both sides
- Fork is bottomed out, tried reasonable amount of pounding...nothing

Thanks in advance

JB400

Tried hitting the spindle at the ball joint with a hammer on both sides, at the same time?  Hold a hammer against one side, while hitting it on the other.


Kern Dog

Quote from: JB400 on June 15, 2018, 07:25:52 PM
Tried hitting the spindle at the ball joint with a hammer on both sides, at the same time?  Hold a hammer against one side, while hitting it on the other.

THis often works.

If you are tossing the old parts, cut the ball joint  shank with a sawzall.

AKcharger

So you guys are saying hit the spindle when it has spring tension on it and that should release it??

Ball joint seem good so will keep if I can :-)

JB400

Yes, from both sides, at same time. Or at least with sickle fork having pressure on it

MoParJW

Putting tension on it with a Ball joint/pulley puller and a sharp strike with a hammer did the trick for me.
'68 Plymouth Satellite sedan 318

Jonas_N

Quote from: JB400 on June 15, 2018, 07:25:52 PM
Tried hitting the spindle at the ball joint with a hammer on both sides, at the same time?  Hold a hammer against one side, while hitting it on the other.

This.
Worked for me, having a big heavy hammer on one side and hitting it on the other side, going around it.

John_Kunkel

Quote from: JB400 on June 15, 2018, 07:25:52 PM
Tried hitting the spindle at the ball joint with a hammer on both sides, at the same time?  Hold a hammer against one side, while hitting it on the other.

Problem with that is, if you miss with the BFH, you can damage the control arm (us old folks don't always shoot straight) so I prefer an air hammer with a flush set...easier to control and only needed on one side.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

AKcharger

Hammer and hammers...no workie. I already cleaned up shop for the night will try the impact hammer idea tomorrow...if that fails I guess there's a super secret tool for this??

One thing I should have recalled, EVERY job on the '70 takes about 6 times longer than it should for some reason. Surprisingly the '72 always seem to go smoothly? Perhaps an old voodoo curse or somthing??  :smilielol:

440

It has to be a big heavy hammer and a brisk solid strike. I normally only unthread the castle nut a couple of turns so that the assembly doesn't just fall apart when the ball joint pops.

It may be in vain but sometimes for stubborn joints I'll soak with penetrating spray.


The air chisel attachment is probably easier on the parts than a hammer though.

charger Downunder

Lower the jack so its not holding it up, loosen the nut off and wack that sucker with two heavy hammers at the same time right on the spindle.
[/quote]

b5blue

Quote from: AKcharger on June 16, 2018, 05:24:19 PM
Hammer and hammers...no workie. I already cleaned up shop for the night will try the impact hammer idea tomorrow...if that fails I guess there's a super secret tool for this??

One thing I should have recalled, EVERY job on the '70 takes about 6 times longer than it should for some reason. Surprisingly the '72 always seem to go smoothly? Perhaps an old voodoo curse or somthing??  :smilielol:
I got the tool from Mancini, Like a big nut/bolt that unscrews to press the stud out. Load up pressure and wack! (Worth having)

John_Kunkel

Here's the recommended tool in use.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

hemi71x

John K.
I was just going to post, if anyone's ever used that Miller Special Tools C-3711 in removing upper control arms, on Mopar automobiles.
I have had one of those in my toolbox, since the 1970's and i doubt i have ever used it.
The pickle forks, or the air hammer have always worked for me, when i was professionally wrenching, or taking cars apart at the Pick-N-Pull wrecking yards.

The tool is placed between the studs of the ball joints, screw the adjustment nut to put pressure on the stud, and smack the side of the spindle to remove the stud of the ball joint, out of the spindle taper.

Guess it's Easy Peasy with the tool.
Jim V.
hemi71x


RF-4C Phantom 69-370 Zweibrucken, Germany

AKcharger

Well, got one side using a hammer and dolly, pax is still uncooperative. I soaked it in spray lube as I go to work, try again in a few days. Thanks for tool post. At least I have a back-up now  :2thumbs:

440


AKcharger

Yeah, but it's best I got, I'll get another when I get back. I was going to use air hammer but lost the lil' hammer attachment  :icon_smile_angry:

hemi71x

Quote from: 440 on June 17, 2018, 05:38:29 PM
That hammer is too light

Ya, no wonder your having problems.
Everyone here was figuring that you would be using a Big F%#*@+G Hammer, at least a three pounder, whacking on that pickle fork.

RF-4C Phantom 69-370 Zweibrucken, Germany

JB400


RallyeMike

You used a finish hammer .....and it actually came apart? You have to be pulling our legs :lol:
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

66FBCharger

Quote from: hemi71x on June 17, 2018, 03:49:26 PM
John K.
I was just going to post, if anyone's ever used that Miller Special Tools C-3711 in removing upper control arms, on Mopar automobiles.
I have had one of those in my toolbox, since the 1970's and i doubt i have ever used it.
The pickle forks, or the air hammer have always worked for me, when i was professionally wrenching, or taking cars apart at the Pick-N-Pull wrecking yards.

The tool is placed between the studs of the ball joints, screw the adjustment nut to put pressure on the stud, and smack the side of the spindle to remove the stud of the ball joint, out of the spindle taper.

Guess it's Easy Peasy with the tool.
Jim V.
hemi71x



I tried everything mentioned to separate the upper ball joint and had no success until I used the Miller tool. I put some pressure on the ball joint studs with the tool, wacked the spindle a few times with a big hammer and the ball joint popped out. In my opinion the tool makes the job quick and easy.
'69 Charger R/T 440 4 speed T5, '70 Road Runner 440+6 4 speed, '73 'Cuda 340 4 speed, '66 Charger 383 Auto
SOLD!:'69 Charger R/T S.E. 440 4 speed 3.54 Dana rolling body

CDN72SE

Good, luck I'll be watching this thread, unfortunately my stuff is already off the car.
1972 Charger SE

AKcharger

OK got a 4lb hammer and beat it to death for about 10 mins...it aint budging. Does anyone have a source for the miller tool? Internet searches brought up lots of mopar tool sites but not that one.


Will buy or rent if someone has one??

On a good note the drivers side is pretty much together :-)



hemi71x

That Miller Special Tools has been obsolete for decades.
Probably wasn't that popular of a tool to be used back in 1970 anyway.
Gotta be an old timer, like me, to ever have something like that.

Your at the point in not ever saving that upper ball joint anyway.
Time to beg, borrow, rent, steal, a "flame wrench" or grinder, and cut the stud of the ball joint in two.
Rip off whats left of that grease boot, and wipe away all the grease that you can, and heat up the top portion of the spindle to expand the metal, the best it can.
Then give the pickle fork some good whacks, and see if it comes apart.
You really don't have much of a choice.
Or get out the grinder and cut the stud in two.
Then go and buy yourself a new ball joint, and then we will probably be reading a posting on how the best way to remove and install a upper ball joint.
Good luck.
Been following your troubles here.



RF-4C Phantom 69-370 Zweibrucken, Germany