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Help with building wiring harnesse

Started by rikubot, January 09, 2019, 02:04:34 AM

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Nacho-RT74

Quote from: rikubot on January 10, 2019, 12:42:13 PM

I don't really care to stay 100% factory correct. I'd rather my car be safe and work better. I'd like to kind of stay close though.


you can keep same stock terminals and if you don't find the specific housing/plug, replace it with some of ones available on both ends to match them. SOME DAY IN THE FUTURE will be just about replace the housing/plug for the correct one if you find it new or used, but terminals job will be already made.

just my 2 cents
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

OOOH God!!! what I could do with all those suppliers close to me!!!! won't need to get JYs harnesses donors anymore to get correct setup on my car, or friends cars!

Maybe could make my own bussines about that!!!
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

rikubot

I'm a little concerned that their wire is only rated up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit.
'69 Charger, 440/727

rikubot

Here's the *a/c control harness I'm going to rebuild. Should be pretty simple. If anyone has one laying around I'd love to know the proper length.

'69 Charger, 440/727

mopar0166

i bought the 21 circ, painless.  mainly because i have aftermarket stuff to run.  BUT what i did was lay out the pain and stock harness next to each other. i then put the factory wiring dia gram and painless instructions and combined them as i needed.   I t worked excellent and was able to still use factory fitting and have upgraded wire where it was needed. 


rikubot

I really wish I had done that. My harness was a butchered mess but my buddy has an original I could have looked at. I'm sure I'd have saved money too.  :brickwall:
'69 Charger, 440/727

rikubot

I got some good wire off eBay and a few different terminals from repair connector. Ten colors 25 feet long 18G. I was looking for something like the terminal that goes into the glove box light but can't seem to find anything. I'll post some pics of the harnesses I'm building. Im pretty happy with the wires and terminals.
'69 Charger, 440/727

jlatessa

Used the Painless kit on the 70 Charger.
I like terminating them myself to ensure it's done right.

Bought a terminal kit from Terminal Supply that had Quality terminal to use where
the Painless ones were not appropriate.

I soldered all high current terminals.

Between the Painless instructions and the FSM, it was a good learning experience
on the workings of your car, the Painless tech help was top-notch with advice.

Bought a Painless kit for our 71 RR too, haven't started on that car yet, though.

Good luck on what path you choose....Joe

rikubot

Thanks for the tips jlatessa. I wish I had done that before I bought the dash harness by M&H from Year One. I've done a little bit of wiring with the ignition and map light harnesses. Slow going but progress is progress.

I haven't gotten to the door pin part of the map harness so I'm still not sure what I'm gonna do there. It's the bullet connector that also has a female bullet line coming off of it.
'69 Charger, 440/727

Dino

Quote from: rikubot on January 11, 2019, 09:32:20 AM
Here's the *a/c control harness I'm going to rebuild. Should be pretty simple. If anyone has one laying around I'd love to know the proper length.



I installed mine a few weeks ago, it's not a whole lot longer than that. Make it a bit longer to give yourself room to play if you want, but that's a pretty straightforward plug and play.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

rikubot

Thanks Dino! I started on that little one tonight. The terminals are giving me trouble when I go to crimp them. I bought a Molex style tool and they still take a lot of work fir me to get it right. Here's what I've been working on:

'69 Charger, 440/727

rikubot

Just little stuff but it's progress. Shouldn't take much to get the rest of the dash accessory harnesses finished.
'69 Charger, 440/727

Dino

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Nacho-RT74

That was I remembered... wires were straight attached to the AC switch on a 70 I was working on! no plastic plug on them. I think in fact got solded ( with terminals ) maybe ? can't recall
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

rikubot

That's a great reference thank you. I was going off the diagram and it doesn't match that OR what I had comin out of mine. I was unsure how much mine was messed with but I think it matches yours. The diagram is wrong! I think the wire with tape on it was originally light green.
'69 Charger, 440/727

Nacho-RT74

Sometimes diagrams are referential but I have found several times mistakes on them ( specially the ones uploaded at MyMopar ). Also splices are not on same locations diagrams show.

Light green is usally mid fan speed. Tan is the lower which is the default speed still if you disconect the fan lever switch system ( not posible on 2nd gens, but is posible on 3rd gens ). Dark green is high speed and doesn't go through the resistor block althougt a dark green wire gets to it, but just because is the ouput from resistor block up to blower for the rest of speeds. Brown is heater speed which in A/C cars is an exclusive and only speed available for heater.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

rikubot

Most that I have come across are pretty close to what I've pulled out, but I have seen more than a couple instances of variation. It's not a big deal but has been a tad confusing at times. This one seems pretty simple. Do you know about what gauge the tan and brown ones are? They look to be 16 or 17G.

This second gen has another switch just for the fan speed. It's very unique too so it's going to be a bigger to fix. I'll see if I have a pic of mine on my phone.
'69 Charger, 440/727

Nacho-RT74

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

rikubot

Know where I can get something like this?

Also I was wondering what tape is best to use. I heard that the sticky tape is not a good idea.
'69 Charger, 440/727

rikubot

I was thinking about using these and just going over them with some heat shrink tubing.
'69 Charger, 440/727

Nacho-RT74

those are the ones I use to conect on the existant bullet sources and also use shinking tube to isolate them

Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

about the tape... it exists the non sticky tape which is the used at factory. Sticky works but the heat comes that becomes on a total mess. There is also selfbonding tape which is my favorite for engine bay due the extra protection, but is not posible to unwrappe it for fix or modify LOL. Needs to be cut
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

rikubot

I'll get some of those ordered then. I've got some shrink wrap so I'll probab just double up on it after I crimp the wire in. Do you have any recommendations for what tape to use? Also I was able to go check out my buddy's charger today. Turns out it DIDNT come with the AO1 light package so I'm gonna have to keep looking for something to help me mock up my warning light buzzer harness.
'69 Charger, 440/727

rikubot

Does anyone know what these are called? I need one for my ignition lamp and this one is cracked.
'69 Charger, 440/727