Radiator Opinions/Options for 69 Charger R/T with 22" Radiator support

[ChargerRT69]

Hello Charger Land!

I continue to work on getting my Charger R/T on the road and try to stay ahead of physical work by planning ahead. One of the subjects that I ask for help on this go around is proven recommendations for radiators and cooling fans to keep a the following build cool:

•   440 bored 0.030 over
•   440 Source Stealth heads
•   Lunati- Cam and Lifters (PN 10230703LK - 226/234  .494/.513)
•   Mancini Racing High Volume Aluminum Water Pump
•   Edelbrock Performer RPM intake topped with FiTech Go EFI 4 600HP System Matte Black.
•   Compression estimated to be 10:1

The Charger is an original R/T, but had no AC originally. So from what I have found the 22" radiator was typically used. I am adding an aftermarket Classic Auto Air system, so will come into play. I want to be able to keep it cool so when running at low RPM (Parades, etc) and running A/C, I do not overheat. The car is already painted so upgrading to a 26" radiator support is not an option, so whatever is recommended I need to fit it into the 22" support frame.

I have read version things, but wanted to get some new opinions on this subject and see what others have done with success!!

Thanks in advance for all feedback!

[Mopar Nut]

I went with a U.S. Radiator 22" four row, keeps my car between 175 to 185. I don't have A/C. But if you're looking for stock appearance, buy a Glen Ray 22" modified three row.

Is yours a automatic or manual?

[ChargerRT69]

I went with a U.S. Radiator 22" four row, keeps my car between 175 to 185. I don't have A/C. But if you're looking for stock appearance, buy a Glen Ray 22" modified three row.

Is yours a automatic or manual?

Automatic

[justcruisin]

I have used a champion 22" with 3 rows of 3/4" tubes, but you wouldn't mistake it for stock. There are others out there that look more original and that is what I would go for if I did it again, I had to fab up a shroud as the original would not fit. I don't have AC, my engine is a similar build to yours and in traffic on hot days I think I would see the temp climb beyond 200 if I let it. I installed a 17" Derale fan on the front as an assist to my engine driven clutch fan along with a 190 degree thermo switch and it works well. The fan kicks in and drops the temp then switches off, never had an issue.

[ChargerRT69]

I have used a champion 22" with 3 rows of 3/4" tubes, but you wouldn't mistake it for stock. There are others out there that look more original and that is what I would go for if I did it again, I had to fab up a shroud as the original would not fit. I don't have AC, my engine is a similar build to yours and in traffic on hot days I think I would see the temp climb beyond 200 if I let it. I installed a 17" Derale fan on the front as an assist to my engine driven clutch fan along with a 190 degree thermo switch and it works well. The fan kicks in and drops the temp then switches off, never had an issue.

Thanks justcruisin, I was wondering if there was other people out there that would give me more feedback!

[ChargerRT69]

Has anyone ever used Engineered Cooling Products (ECP)? Their website is http://www.speedcooling.com/radiators/. They talked a good game, but wonder how their product really is?

[c00nhunterjoe]

I have found that in most cases, a high volume waterpump will cause overheating issues. Have you ever seen how much water the stock pump moves at just 1500 rpm? Its ALOT.  I have several friends with several different brand aluminum radiators ranging from high dollar becool to the cheap 189 champions. I feel it is more sized to your particular application regarding core size, tube size, and arrangment then brand. Fwiw, i have a stock style 22" downflow 4 row champion in my 700 hp, filled block 440. It keeps my setup up running cool in summer heat on the street and between rounds at the track.

[ChargerRT69]

I have found that in most cases, a high volume waterpump will cause overheating issues. Have you ever seen how much water the stock pump moves at just 1500 rpm? Its ALOT.  I have several friends with several different brand aluminum radiators ranging from high dollar becool to the cheap 189 champions. I feel it is more sized to your particular application regarding core size, tube size, and arrangment then brand. Fwiw, i have a stock style 22" downflow 4 row champion in my 700 hp, filled block 440. It keeps my setup up running cool in summer heat on the street and between rounds at the track.

Thanks C00nhunterjoe!

[Challenger340]

In my experience the factory 22" radiator works just fine.  

Our '69 R/T 440/auto with the stock/original Parts & Radiator stays plenty cool even idling in traffic. Yes, I know I'm in Canada, but I've driven it in 100*F Las Vegas Heat/bumper to bumper traffic as well with NO issues.
Stock W/P, stock radiator, and stock 160*F "summer" thermostat as recommended back in the service manuals of the day,
and yes...
"back in the day" Mopar recommended summer 160*F and winter 190*F Thermostats as part of "winterizing" maintenance for colder climates.
And as anyone who actually drove these Cars back in those days in -20*F winters with a 160*F summer thermostat can attest..... freezing ur nutz off and NOT being able to see squat out the frozen windows was no fun !  because the heater only blew luke warm air !   We used 190*F winter thermostats in winter, and 160*F summer thermostats in summers.

My point being twofold
1.) I don't believe the 22" radiator opening is an issue to good cooling, given a good quality radiator is installed
and
2.) I have NO idea why today many people install 190*F Thermostats, then wonder WHY their Cars overheat idling in 80-90-100*F traffic  

[justcruisin]

I agree with Joe that brand is not the main thing, in my experience the well constructed cheaper ones work well, IMO  air flow through the radiator at idle is key.

[c00nhunterjoe]

I will say that 90% of the overheating issues i have seen are airflow related, 5% are overengineered changes, and 5% are actually the radiators fault.

[hemi68charger]

I have a Daytona, and like any Winged car with the nose, there can be heating problems. Mine was no exception. I did eventually change out my anti-freeze and replaced all the fluid I could get out with nothing but distilled water and a product called "Water Wetter"....... I used to have real bad overheating problems, but after this fluid change, I haven't had another single cooling issue.........  just my own personal experience.........

[DanielRobert]

I went to a 2 row with 1" tubes radiator for a problematic Olds motor (had a brand new 3 row radiator).   Did the trick. They definitely cool better than the tight 3 row 1/2"

[darbgnik]

Quoted from the eBay add of the rad I bought, might have some truth to it?:

A large 2- row aluminum radiator will cool better the a 3-row or even 4-row aluminum radiator. Aluminum is NOT LIKE COPPER where more tubes/rows means more cooling. It is the size of the tubes/rows that provide the best cooling. The highest cooling efficiency is with 2 rows 1 inch to 1&1/8 inch wide. Do your research and you will find any major name brand radiator shop will be building them with 2-large rows. Usually at a premium price.