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Author Topic: Engine build - exhaust  (Read 6621 times)
BSB67
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« Reply #100 on: March 20, 2020, 06:42:41 PM »

Where did you get the SS thermostat housing from?
Motor looks sharp.

Polished aluminum I bet.
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500" NA, Eddy head, pump gas, exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 exhaust with tailpipes
4150 lbs with driver, 3.23 gear, stock converter
11.68 @ 120.2 mph
green69rt
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« Reply #101 on: March 21, 2020, 07:12:25 AM »

Natural SS.  I shied away from aluminum because I thought it might be to soft and distort.  Then wouldn't seal.  It was expensive but I thought of it as jewelry on the engine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prs-1064
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70 sublime
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next project 1969 Charger 383 auto


« Reply #102 on: March 21, 2020, 07:55:14 AM »

Natural SS.  I shied away from aluminum because I thought it might be to soft and distort.  Then wouldn't seal.  It was expensive but I thought of it as jewelry on the engine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prs-1064

Ouch that works out to $135.59 Canadian

PS green69rt did you notice with your last post you have 3,333 posts  icon_smile_tongue
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current project 69 Charger Daytona clone F6 green
next project 70 Charger FJ5 green
sy440m
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« Reply #103 on: March 21, 2020, 08:26:56 AM »

Natural SS.  I shied away from aluminum because I thought it might be to soft and distort.  Then wouldn't seal.  It was expensive but I thought of it as jewelry on the engine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prs-1064


Thanks for the info
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green69rt
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« Reply #104 on: March 21, 2020, 02:01:11 PM »

Natural SS.  I shied away from aluminum because I thought it might be to soft and distort.  Then wouldn't seal.  It was expensive but I thought of it as jewelry on the engine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prs-1064

Ouch that works out to $135.59 Canadian

PS green69rt did you notice with your last post you have 3,333 posts  icon_smile_tongue

Took almost exactly 11 years to get there.  Also note that the same eleven years is how long I've been working on my car!!  I had to learn so much along the way, welding, metal work, body work, painting, electrical, etc, etc, etc.  I worked fairly steadily, sometimes only 3 or 4 hours in a week, sometimes 6 hours in one day, sometimes no work for weeks.  Getting soooooo close!


(oops, now it's 3334)
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TexasStroker
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« Reply #105 on: March 22, 2020, 04:54:16 PM »

Looks great...getting close to hitting the streets AND with great gas prices!
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Founder, Amarillo Area Mopars
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Contact me for info!
green69rt
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« Reply #106 on: March 28, 2020, 11:29:36 AM »

When I bought this car, years ago, the previous owner had purchased a bunch of stuff.  Among the stuff was a new exhaust system.  First picture shows what he bought.   I suspect it came from Summit but I have no receipt.  I got underneath to see what would fit.  The front pipes won't fit at all.  They go in the junk pile (I'll save them just in case.)   I talked to CDR and his opinion is that the mufflers are also junk.  So, maybe I can use the tail pipes.

First step, call TTI and get a H-pipe that will fit.  Test fitted and they look like they'll work  (second pic.)


Still need mufflers.


* DSC08286 (900x675).jpg (262.35 KB, 900x675 - viewed 442 times.)

* DSC08287 (900x675).jpg (271.09 KB, 900x675 - viewed 450 times.)
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green69rt
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« Reply #107 on: March 29, 2020, 01:15:03 PM »

So, started shopping for a muffler.  Usual choices.  To thin the herd, I think I'll stick with Flowmaster or Dynomax.  Chambered or straight thru?  I really don't want a lot of noise when I drive into my driveway (neighbors) but some won't hurt(another of those wishy-washy specs  icon_smile_big ).  First look came up with the flowmaster delta flow 50.  This is a chambered unit.  Haven't investigated the dynomax yet.
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c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #108 on: March 29, 2020, 03:57:51 PM »

The standard 50s are not my favorite. For a chambered muffler, If you want a ripe muscle car sound without insane tin can and resonance, the flowmaster super 50 is the way to go.
   https://youtu.be/9gpncCxfZ44.

I also like the fx series from flowmaster. It is a straight through style like the dynomax ultrflo for half the cost.
https://youtu.be/e9LkLjOifiM
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bee1971
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« Reply #109 on: March 31, 2020, 11:20:42 AM »

Thanks for posting.

It looks like the valve train is going away at 4600 - 4700 rpm or so.  The data look a bit unreliable after that.  I don't think the little changes you were making between runs explains the large swings in performance from run to run.  Did you guys actually do something to improve the valve train performance?  

I bet graphing the data of all runs on one large graph would be telling.

What was your oil pressure, and what weight oil did you use?

Lifters I am guessing , and why advance the cam two more degrees when four is already built in

Way to low RPMs for those E Street Heads and that Camshaft



I have two friends that run that same setup on 383 Strokers , and make great power past 5500 On those same E Street Heads I installed and same camshaft

I know the original poster talked a lot about valve spring pressure later on , those same #5792 Valve Springs are used on most RPM heads also and have been good past 6,000 RPMs

Torque is awesome down low , but to drop off so much at 4700 RPMs Is not the norm

Anyways canít wait for him to get it on the street and see the progress

Beautiful Car  2thumbs

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myk
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« Reply #110 on: April 04, 2020, 01:47:43 AM »

So, started shopping for a muffler.  Usual choices.  To thin the herd, I think I'll stick with Flowmaster or Dynomax.  Chambered or straight thru?  I really don't want a lot of noise when I drive into my driveway (neighbors) but some won't hurt(another of those wishy-washy specs  icon_smile_big ).  First look came up with the flowmaster delta flow 50.  This is a chambered unit.  Haven't investigated the dynomax yet.

I was always told from members on here that the Dynomax Ultra Flo's are the best performing; not necessarily the "best sounding."  But, I was interested in making this pig move so I went with the Ultra Flo's...
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c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #111 on: April 04, 2020, 02:33:47 PM »

So, started shopping for a muffler.  Usual choices.  To thin the herd, I think I'll stick with Flowmaster or Dynomax.  Chambered or straight thru?  I really don't want a lot of noise when I drive into my driveway (neighbors) but some won't hurt(another of those wishy-washy specs  icon_smile_big ).  First look came up with the flowmaster delta flow 50.  This is a chambered unit.  Haven't investigated the dynomax yet.

I was always told from members on here that the Dynomax Ultra Flo's are the best performing; not necessarily the "best sounding."  But, I was interested in making this pig move so I went with the Ultra Flo's...

"Best sounding" is 100% opinion. What i like, you may not, and the next and next. Its the joy of customizing your car. Its for you, not me. The ultraflos are a good choice for performance based soley on design being straight through vs chambered. But on a street car, you are splitting hairs if you shop 100% based on performance in a muffler. I always say, pick what you like the sound of, moreso then the advertised hp gains over another.
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green69rt
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« Reply #112 on: April 05, 2020, 05:37:55 PM »

Finally went with MagnaFlow 12256 from Summit.  I really won't know how I like them till the car is running. 
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green69rt
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« Reply #113 on: April 05, 2020, 05:41:05 PM »

Thanks for posting.

It looks like the valve train is going away at 4600 - 4700 rpm or so.  The data look a bit unreliable after that.  I don't think the little changes you were making between runs explains the large swings in performance from run to run.  Did you guys actually do something to improve the valve train performance?  

I bet graphing the data of all runs on one large graph would be telling.

What was your oil pressure, and what weight oil did you use?

Lifters I am guessing , and why advance the cam two more degrees when four is already built in

Way to low RPMs for those E Street Heads and that Camshaft



I have two friends that run that same setup on 383 Strokers , and make great power past 5500 On those same E Street Heads I installed and same camshaft

I know the original poster talked a lot about valve spring pressure later on , those same #5792 Valve Springs are used on most RPM heads also and have been good past 6,000 RPMs

Torque is awesome down low , but to drop off so much at 4700 RPMs Is not the norm

Anyways canít wait for him to get it on the street and see the progress

Beautiful Car  2thumbs



You may be right but no way to tell until the car is running.  There will be some sorting out to do.  It would have been really expensive to put the engine back on the dyno and it can be sorted while in the car.  Only thing missing will be matching dyno run documentation to show results.
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c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #114 on: April 06, 2020, 10:25:00 AM »

Finally went with MagnaFlow 12256 from Summit.  I really won't know how I like them till the car is running. 

Nice choice. Will sound like the dynomax ultraflo- same basic design. With an h pipe, it will have a deep, angry muscle car sound to it, but not overwhelming volume.
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green69rt
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« Reply #115 on: May 26, 2020, 02:53:32 PM »

I've been a slacker about getting stuff up.  Been doing stuff just not telling anyone. Grin

Lots of little things needed to get the engine running again.  Mostly around the front of the engine, belts and pullys.

The AC bracket that came with my Classic Air kit did not work at all for me so I spent some time on the phone with them and finally they sent my a different bracket and it all came together.

So I have the pulleys installed for the water pump, alt, AC and PS.  Belts arrive Friday from Rockauto.



* DSC08362 (732x549).jpg (280.66 KB, 732x549 - viewed 216 times.)
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b5blue
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« Reply #116 on: May 26, 2020, 04:14:09 PM »

 2thumbs Got springs for inside the feed pump hose?  scratchchin I got mine from CJ's Mustang Supply
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green69rt
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« Reply #117 on: May 26, 2020, 05:46:28 PM »

2thumbs Got springs for inside the feed pump hose?  scratchchin I got mine from CJ's Mustang Supply

Took me a second to realize what you were talking about.  Radiator hoses?  As soon as the belts arrive and I get everything done, then get the new radiator and fans in.  I think there will be little or no room to do stuff after they are in.  The engine compartment is really getting full!
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b5blue
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« Reply #118 on: May 27, 2020, 08:44:52 AM »

Your at that point where missing parts could slow you down. Keep at it!  2thumbs
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green69rt
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« Reply #119 on: May 27, 2020, 09:58:23 AM »

Your at that point where missing parts could slow you down. Keep at it!  2thumbs

Exactly.  Need exhaust tips to finish the exhaust.  (Year One' vendor delaying shipment, I bet they come from China  eek.)
Need belts to finish the engine.  (arrive Friday from Rock Auto, fingers crossed.)
Need door panels to finish the interior.  (Legendary shut down till June 1)

I have been spending time doing details like hooking up temp sender, oil press sender, speedo, cleaning up routing of wires and hoses.  Keep moving forward but seems like parts is a big roadblock.
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green69rt
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« Reply #120 on: May 31, 2020, 06:18:25 AM »

Belts on.  Time to start putting the radiator in and add some liquids!


* DSC08363 (732x549).jpg (259.79 KB, 732x549 - viewed 164 times.)
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cdr
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« Reply #121 on: June 08, 2020, 09:26:57 AM »

 Shocked  IT RUNS !!!  yesnod Mitch is one happy man after 13 years

https://youtu.be/u6vx6G_OTC8
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b5blue
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« Reply #122 on: June 08, 2020, 06:11:47 PM »

SWEET!!  cheers
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c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #123 on: June 09, 2020, 07:40:53 AM »

Nice choice on the carb. I like the black/purple. Also neat take on the gauges. Modern amenities in a classic stockish style package. What are they?
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green69rt
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« Reply #124 on: June 09, 2020, 08:24:08 AM »

Nice choice on the carb. I like the black/purple. Also neat take on the gauges. Modern amenities in a classic stockish style package. What are they?

The dash is Dakota Digital.  All LED lights with electronic gauges.  No dash wiring to worry about, everything wires to an ECU with one Cat5 cable to the instrument cluster.  Amp meter is gone, volt meter replaced it.  Gas gauge is now programmable.  I can put any transmitter in the tank and then use a custom calibration so it reads correctly.
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