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Hard to start, carb problem?

Started by Tmb84, September 15, 2019, 11:39:59 AM

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Tmb84

When i got the car it had original Carter 4bbl.  After three years it didnt have the power from ca3000rpm, sometimes it was boogging. I thougt it was lean on fuel and a carb problem so i changed to a dp4b alu manifold and a new edelbrock 1406 with el-choke.
But that didnt help, the problem was the point ignition, changed to pertronix.

Cold start is always fine, start right up and works like it should. But when its warm and i stall it for more than 5 minutes i have to crank it minimum 7-8 seconds with the pedal all down. I have also tried to pump it 1-2 times, 4-5 times before start, but it doesnt help. Yesterday i innstalled the edelbrock wood isolate spacer. That didnt help either..

When the old Carter was on the hot start was just fine.. timing is set at 16/39. Its a low compression engine.

Any suggestions?
I am thinking of to change the carb to an edelbrock 650 avs2
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green69rt

I would check your fuel delivery before you go changing things again, do a couple of checks.  When the car won't start, take the air cleaner off and make sure the carb accelerator pump is working.  Also, if you have a way to measure the fuel pressure, that would be a good thing to check.

Tmb84

today i opened the carb and everything looks ok, the float level is correct. i didnt have time to test anything today, but i set the acc pump to middle insted of rich, and i will try to disconnect the choke next time at hot start.

i have talked with a few guys and they think its a flooding problem because it needs more air to ignite.  i dont have any tools to check fuel pressure..
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b5blue

What is electric choke fed by? I fed mine (On a Proform 750) by a relay that is turned on by ignition. This way the choke's load isn't draining voltage from coil/ignition. I suggest you get a spark plug and check quality of spark at various plug ends. Read voltage at coil. 

Tmb84

it get power from the ballast resistor mounted on the firewall. i have new coil, new spark plug wires and new spark plugs, but i can check the voltage anyway
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RollinThunder

I used to crank at 21 degrees for initial timing.  The cheap positive cables we get now just crimp the big starter cable to the pos battery lug clamp.  Real ones have the cable soldered to a clamp ring that is molded inside the pos battery lug.  A much superior design (read as in NOS cables).
The scenario above left me stranded once, with no tow truck accepting the tow after an hour.  Finally someone helped and noticed the pos battery cable at the battery was arching.  He pushed it in as hard as he could (I had already backed off timing) and it started.
I now crank at 13 degrees initial and run manifold vacuum which adds another 15 max.  So it idles at 28 degrees (but cranks at 13).  This greatly reduces the hot restarting load to the starter and to the electrical system.

b5blue

Good point and tip cuz the same thing happened with my new cable. The fix is a block of wood and hammer.

c00nhunterjoe

Sounds like multiple tuning problems. The long crank hot sounds like fuel boiling. The wood spacers are junk. Eddy/carter avs afb are always lean out of the box. Changing the pump shot pin setting will not fix your problem. Jets metering rods and springs will.

Tmb84

I am also thinking fuel boiling.. but im a noob in carb tuning
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krops cars

Call  edelbrock they helped me when I was stuck on one. I believe also flooding.

Tmb84

70' Charger 383 -top banana
71' hemicuda Sox&Martin "tribute"

Tmb84

Fast respond from edelbrock and they think its related to float level. So i will check it again tomorrow. They also told me to check if the float contains any liquid.
70' Charger 383 -top banana
71' hemicuda Sox&Martin "tribute"

c00nhunterjoe

What valley pan did you use.
Have you verified pump squirt when hot yet

Put a coolcarbtechnolgies insulator on it, run a valley tray without egr port. Make sure your fuel lines are not touching any part of the engine. Insulate them if neccessary.  VERIFY FUEL OR NOT WHEN THE HARD START OCCURS.

Tmb84

today i adjusted the float level like edelbrock recomends, and it helped alot. first time i wasnt accurate enough.
now i just have to crank it 2-3 seconds without touching the accelerator.

thanks for all help :cheers:
70' Charger 383 -top banana
71' hemicuda Sox&Martin "tribute"

c00nhunterjoe

What about the bog amd loss of power at 3k

Tmb84

maybe i was a bit unclear in the first post, i thougt the booging and loss of power was the old Carter carb, but it was the point ignition. with new pertronix it woke upp!
i choose to stay with the new carb, even with hot start problem. now its finally sorted out :2thumbs:
70' Charger 383 -top banana
71' hemicuda Sox&Martin "tribute"