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Door Glass Seal

Started by john108, November 16, 2019, 02:16:20 PM

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john108

1968 Charger - Door Glass Seal
I think I have seen this here before but can't find it.

Can the door window rear edge seal be replaced without removing the window?

HOW can it be done??

Thank You
John

john108


green69rt

Quote from: john108 on January 12, 2020, 01:25:11 PM
?? ::)

Not absolutely sure but that seal can only be removed with the glass out.

Maybe this thread will help.  One caution if you remove the window glass.  The felt that goes on the front of the window is RARE and expensive.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,39415.0.html

john108

Mitch
I was hoping not to pull the glass.
When doing the quarter window, bolts broke and had to be drilled out and re-tapped.
There is a channel that guides the aft edge of the door window.
I have access to almost the full seal with the window up, except for a short section down in the channel.
It looks like there are 2 bolts that hold that channel to the door frame.
I thought about removing those bolts and lower that channel to give me access to the hidden rear edge of the glass.
I don't know if it is possible but I think if the window height is adjusted, the hidden section of the seal may be accessible from inside the door frame??
I believe the seal is bonded in place.
Still procrastinating!

green69rt

I have my doubt's about pulling that seal with the glass installed. It's not "glued" but just pressed into place and held by the "stickyness" of the rubber that goes between the metal and the glass.   Maybe, if you take out the rear channel first, but even that seems a chore.  That seal and the channel it rides in have some other parts, down inside that may make it hard.  Here's a thread with some pics of what goes between the channel and the seal.  I'll look to see if I can find some others.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,130658.msg1625140.html#msg1625140


green69rt

I was just thinking about the process of pulling that seal with the glass installed.  One BIG problem I see concerns the Front seal.  That seal is fixed in place with some plastic runners.  If you pull the rear seal off and that causes the front of the glass to put much pull on the front seal and messes it up, then you got a real problem.  For sure, you will be taking the complete window assembly out and replacing that front seal.  Those front seals are rare and expensive if you can even find them.  Last time I looked they cost around $100 per side!  You'll have got be super careful when pulling on the rear seal to make sure the glass does not move at all.

green69rt

Just reading thru this thread and I don't think that I understand what you are trying to do.  

Pic #1 is the seal between the quarter window and the metal trim on the back of the front window.  Allows the front and back windows to slide.
Pic #2 is the seal between the front window and the metal trim.  It's fixed to the front window.

So are you trying to replace #1, #2, both, something else?

And here is the stuff that I used to seal the front windows to the rear metal trim (pic #2).  If you buy this, get several different thicknesses.  
http://stores.restorationspecialties.com/glass-setting-tape-liners/

john108

Mitch
Still brain storming.
What do you think about scraping out the seal, on the back of the door window that seals against the quarter window, down to or close to the track that the window rides in (window all the way up). Then splice the new seal to the old seal while bonding it in place, at the splice on/into the door window?

I got wordy here but hope my thought is clear.
John

john108

Picture

john108

Channel

green69rt

OK, I understand better.   If it's only the very rear seal, as you show, just give it a try.  No harm, no foul.  if it doesn't work out then go to the next step.  The seal is only captured by the metal rail but may be glued at the factory or by a previous owner.  You'll have to be very diligent to clean any adhesive but getting very far below the door metal probably isn't worth it.  You'll be able to tell.

When I did mine I did put a couple of dabs of adhesive to make sure the seal did not move around.  Some times you just need to do what's logical.


green69rt

Quote from: john108 on January 12, 2020, 09:20:23 PM
Picture

Sounds OK to me.  Notice the slit in the new seal (should be close to the top)?  It is a position index..  There should be a metal tab sticking out at a corresponding place on the channel.  Insures correct position.  So how is it working out?

john108

When trying to see how to remove the seal, I find that it does have adhesive along the full length.
I haven't fully tackled it yet.  Still deciding between the risk associated in lowering the guide channel versus splicing the seal above the top of the guide.  (NOTE: I am the original owner so no one else has messed with it.)

green69rt

Quote from: john108 on January 14, 2020, 03:35:39 PM
When trying to see how to remove the seal, I find that it does have adhesive along the full length.
I haven't fully tackled it yet.  Still deciding between the risk associated in lowering the guide channel versus splicing the seal above the top of the guide.  (NOTE: I am the original owner so no one else has messed with it.)

You are a rare breed. I wish I had kept my original.