Radiator Cooling Question:

[Captain D]

Hi gents,

An off-question here, but I was thinking about changing out my radiator with this scenario:

I'd like to use my 69' Charger in parades again, but of course, at the slower speeds, things begin to heat up rather quickly & I don't have an electric fan auxiliary (don't plan to get one to make a story short for other reasons I won't bore you with). But, without an electric fan set-up, I was playing with the idea of removing my 22" radiator & replacing it with a 26" four row core (extra $125) from Championship Cooling that come in either standard or a wide core model. Of the two, and despite it using additional coolant, the 4 core / wide core model may help to keep the engine's temperature at an even safer reading during such events. However, on the other hand, my question is ~ would this set-up keep the engine 'too cool' during simple / routine daily driving excursions though...?

Link:
https://shop.championcooling.com/Performance-Radiators/Dodge/Charger/1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-Dodge-Charger-SKU-375

Thanks for looking & sharing any opinions...

[c00nhunterjoe]

The opening in your core support is most likely only the 22". So unless you cut it out, the 26" radiator wont see the extra airflow over the 22. Which brings you to the next issue- airflow. If it is heating up in traffic and parades, its airflow related, so more surface area will not help you without the airflow.

[Bronzedodge]

Hi gents,
~ would this set-up keep the engine 'too cool' during simple / routine daily driving excursions though...?

^  What Joe said.  Also...

No.  The "low limit" of a cooling system is determined by the thermostat at the water neck.  180* thermostat, working properly, will keep your car at 180.  the real question is - are you overheating in city/parade driving?  Something is wrong.  It wasn't sold doing that back in the day.  Low speed cooling is heavily dependent on the fan system and shroud working properly.

After finding a 1967 factory thermostat in an old intake several years ago, I began to wonder if the aftermarket goofed up Mopar folks in the 70's by standarzing to a GM design.  I bought an EMP/Stewart high flow and it solved all my issues.

[justcruisin]

Build up in the block can be an issue and cause it to over heat, as said - air flow is the key at low speeds, the more the better. If you want to do the parade thing you will need the air flow, aux electric is a good way to go. People say ( it was good enough in the day or mine works great) but if it is over heating - it's over heating. Lots of guys have the same problem with no obvious faults with the factory set up.
160 stat, clean passages in the entire cooling system, good radiator, shroud, clutch fan and a front mount high flow electric, bout the best bang for the buck and effective.
You could go for a 26" radiator and a mercedes 850 watt fan but to hook that up properly will run into some serious coin.
I don't think a 4 core radiator is the way to go.

[Captain D]

Thanks guys for the info,

It's interesting that a 26" is made for the 69' Charger despite the core support being only 22" - apparently, some Chargers came from factory with the larger core support.

Although Champion Cooling doesn't make the wide core in a 22" like they do for the 26," (at least I haven't seen it yet) they do have a 4 core aluminum radiator for an extra $125.

https://shop.championcooling.com/1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-1973-Dodge-Charger-SKU-2375?search=69%20charger

Speaking of which, mine doesn't come anywhere near to overheating during regular routine driving by any means - I'm very happy with Champion Cooling. And, during parades, it does fairly well too. But, by the end of the event, it's creeping close to (if not dang nearly at) the 200 mark. Not terrible, I realize, but it's close enough for comfort + the name of the game is to keep it as cool as possible as long as possible just in case because once you're in line; you're there. I've heard that the factory / mechanical fan is still good to have in there. But, if there is anything else better to use in this situation (since I'm not going to run an auxiliary electric fan), I'm always open to thoughts too.

Thanks again for the info...

[70 sublime]

If you get really stuck you can always turn on the heater inside the car
If you are driving with all the windows down anyways it might not be too bad and is better than boiling over

[firefighter3931]

The ECP radiators look good to me. I have an AFCO racing radiator which is not stock appearing but cools extremely well. The ECP does look stock and uses the same 2 row with 1in tubes which is more efficient than the traditional 3-4 core design. The more cores...the smaller the tubes. Don't be fooled by the extra rows resulting in better heat transfer.

I will be using the ECP rad in my next buildup ! 

http://www.speedcooling.com/22-Mopar-BIG-BLOCK-HD-Aluminum-Radiator.html



Ron

[justcruisin]

Here is something to chew on, I had a 22" champion, 3 rows or 3/4" tubes, tight fitting shroud, clutch fan and a high flow electric in the front, worked great, slow traffic, idle all day in 90 degree + temps. I swapped the 22" for a 26", same 3 row 3/4 tubes. Was no better than the 22", maybe took longer to heat up - maybe.
The swap was due to a bit of a ding in the front requiring new radiator support panels.
The 2 rows of 1" tubes is a good way to go, proven to work.

[comet_666]

I went with this one
https://wizardcooling.com/1966-1969-26-b-b-mopar-applications-aluminum-radiator/

I got the 1.25 inch tubes and their shroud and a clutch fan, worked great until I switched my carb over to fi tech, now it runs hotter and actually got to 202 in a traffic jam last year.
I'm going to pull their shroud and replace with brush less fan package and let the fi tech control it.

[Captain D]

Thanks guys for chiming in,

It's been interesting to receive some experiences from folks. Speaking of which, one local I know actually carries a cooler in his car during parades. When things begin to heat up, he takes out a bag of ice, places it on the intake, & he said that he gets through just fine. The hillbilly way I guess one can say, lol...

Btw, I too upgraded to EFI but there hasn't been any changes in temp. Thanks again for the chats.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Laying ice on a big block mopar intake is fruitless as there is no coolant in it.

[Captain D]

...or somewhere under the hood ~ I've personally never tried it, and doubt that I ever will 

[cdr]

I went with this one
https://wizardcooling.com/1966-1969-26-b-b-mopar-applications-aluminum-radiator/

I got the 1.25 inch tubes and their shroud and a clutch fan, worked great until I switched my carb over to fi tech, now it runs hotter and actually got to 202 in a traffic jam last year.
I'm going to pull their shroud and replace with brush less fan package and let the fi tech control it.

If the Fitech is controlling ign timing that is more than likely the cause of running hot now.

[BSB67]

But why is it overheating?  You should determine that.  Everything else is a band aid.

18 psi cap
30% antifreeze/70% water
let her idle as a test.  If it does not go over 230°F, don't worry about it.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Couple quick things on thermostats as i saw the reccomended slap a 160 in it post up there. A 160 stat will flow the same water as a 180, or a 195, or a 210. The only difference is the temperature at which they START to open. And that is what the advertised number means. A 160 stat does not mean your engine will maintain 160. The same with any other stat. It is when it starts to open. It will tak 20- 30 degrees of additional water temp to become fully open at max flow. So your 180 stat may not full flow until 200 or 210 and thats perfectly normal and acceptable and explains why alot of cars "creep up" in traffic. It doesnt neccesarily mean your car is broken.

[green69rt]

And, if all the trouble shooting says that you need a bigger radiator, then this is what yo need.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-26-RADIATOR-SUPPORT-BRACKET-68-70-B-BODY-/310126159052

[Canadian1968]

But what about the water pump.......

sorry had to !

[c00nhunterjoe]

But what about the water pump.......

sorry had to !

[justcruisin]

Rating for rating all thermostats do not result in the same running temp. I had a 160 high flow and it ran at 160, I then swapped it for a 180 hi flow and it runs just above 170. It would seem that the hi flow thermostat open early and will flow enough at a low opening position to maintain temp. I have run standard thermostats before and they have never run at the opening rating.
I like to run a 160 stat - or to be more accurate - run at 170 degrees as I find that I don't get any detonation if I keep it cooler.
Each situation is different, engine, climate, usage, sometimes you gots ta experiment a bit.

[c00nhunterjoe]

Rating for rating all thermostats do not result in the same running temp. I had a 160 high flow and it ran at 160, I then swapped it for a 180 hi flow and it runs just above 170. It would seem that the hi flow thermostat open early and will flow enough at a low opening position to maintain temp. I have run standard thermostats before and they have never run at the opening rating.
I like to run a 160 stat - or to be more accurate - run at 170 degrees as I find that I don't get any detonation if I keep it cooler.
Each situation is different, engine, climate, usage, sometimes you gots ta experiment a bit.

And every thermostat is also different. I have found there is little to no quality control here. You can take 4 of the same part number stats and test them and they are all different. Thus my statement about the window of working temp....

[comet_666]

I went with this one
https://wizardcooling.com/1966-1969-26-b-b-mopar-applications-aluminum-radiator/

I got the 1.25 inch tubes and their shroud and a clutch fan, worked great until I switched my carb over to fi tech, now it runs hotter and actually got to 202 in a traffic jam last year.
I'm going to pull their shroud and replace with brush less fan package and let the fi tech control it.

If the Fitech is controlling ign timing that is more than likely the cause of running hot now.

It wasnt really letting advance work properly, I corrected this and it still runs hotter...but to me running at 190 while driving instead of 183 is hot. I even replaced clutch fan and same. And now in traffic jam it gets toasty much more than I like. Might be because it runs much leaner?

[cdr]

I went with this one
https://wizardcooling.com/1966-1969-26-b-b-mopar-applications-aluminum-radiator/

I got the 1.25 inch tubes and their shroud and a clutch fan, worked great until I switched my carb over to fi tech, now it runs hotter and actually got to 202 in a traffic jam last year.
I'm going to pull their shroud and replace with brush less fan package and let the fi tech control it.

If the Fitech is controlling ign timing that is more than likely the cause of running hot now.

It wasnt really letting advance work properly, I corrected this and it still runs hotter...but to me running at 190 while driving instead of 183 is hot. I even replaced clutch fan and same. And now in traffic jam it gets toasty much more than I like. Might be because it runs much leaner?

Yes lean will make them run a little hotter, what is your timing table, picture ? at 1800 -2500 light cruise Im at 42 deg total, Idle 28

[comet_666]

Just by my fi tech data log looks like i'm around 24.4 idle and at 3000 i'm at 31.9 (spark advance)

[cdr]

Just by my fi tech data log looks like i'm around 24.4 idle and at 3000 i'm at 31.9 (spark advance)

light cruise will need more, like when a vac advance works. I do not know all of your engine parameters, you need to play with the timing & listen for ping & missfires 

[comet_666]

Thanks cdr, as soon as the weather stops sucking here (3 more months) i will take it out and start messing with it again.
Sorry to the OP for hijacking thread