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Carburetor has me stumped

Started by john108, May 26, 2020, 10:40:35 AM

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john108

1968 Dodge Charger R/T 505 stroked.
I am at a total Loss how to Proceed.
The engine was dyno with a proform 950 Carb. Then the Carb was removed and stored in its box.
I didn't look at it until I just decided to put it on.

I was expecting to see linkage to hook up the Kick-Down and throttle.  But I don't recognize any of that.
I do have the HLY-20-7 adapter but I don't think that it will solve the problem.

I know almost nothing about carburetors.  The proform is commonly recommended on this site.
I hope someone here can help me perform this install properly.
Thank You,
John


BLK 68 R/T

In addition to the adapter for the carb. Something like this might work? Don't know with that spacer though?
http://arengineering.com/products/440-with-kickdown-pivot/

john108

Thanks BLK 68 R/T.  I will look into it.  The Carb shown is different.

I attached the HLY 20-7 Bracket.

XH29N0G

I think the HLY 20-7 you installed is right, and needed to make it so the factory pedal will open the blades all the way for the given pedal travel.  The kickdown is another thing altogether and I honestly do not know how that is done because I am uasing a manual.  I am guessing there are other parts needed and those might also be in something like a factory service manual, but they will need to be adjusted because of the height of your manifold and spacer.  Someone here ill pipe in I am sure.

Good luck with this.  I'll be interested to see how it all turns out when complete.  Sounds fun.   :cheers:
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

green69rt

Hey John, here's a picture of my 850 Proform setup.  I used the Bouchillon setup but needed one modification.In the second picture I had to move the pivot that I have my finger on  (just drilled another hole.).  Needed the move so the throttle plate would fully open.  Notice that my bracket is mounted to the carb, not the manifold so  it doen't need to account for spacers, hi rise intakes, etc.




john108

When I bought the carburetor, I guess I may not have known as much as I should have.
It is referred as a race Carb.  It doesn't have a choke and a few other features that appear on my original carb.
I was planning on using the original throttle and kick-down linkage (pic attached, Haven't put on horizontal rod yet)). 
I am hoping that someone using this setup or experienced with it would please chime in.
Thank You, John

XH29N0G

I will respond until you get someone who can explain this better than me.  As you know I do not have a kickdown linkage so I am hopefully not too far off base, but looking at what you have set up, I see the bracket on the carb you installed (HLY 20-7) and that is correct and needed to make it so the carb opens fully for the throttle cable travel available. 

I also see the bracket for the throttle and kickdown linkage (just pictured in blue) and in another recent thread you started about installing it.  I suspect the problem is related to trying to use this bracket with the Street Dominator manifold.  I suspect you need a bracket that attached more closely to the carburetor and is like the Bouchillon one in the picture (above) by Green69RT.  That bracket moves the throttle cable closer to the carburetor linkage and raises the throttle cable position and the kickdown cable position so they will align more closely with the carburetor bracket and linkage.  I do not know if this solves the issue of how the kickdown is attached to the carb, but looking at what Green69rt posted and using something like that should work.

I suspect the issue might be mixing the original bracket, which was designed for a lower carburetor position with the new carb position that is determined by the Street Dominator manifold.  I also suspect that you will have to buy an aftermarket linkage like the one pictured.

I think the carburetor linkage is not that different for your carb to one with a choke (I have used both and they have had similar linkages).  The only thing you will have to deal with is a little cold start issue and initial warm up, but that isn't bad (I don't have a choke either and it works fine). Otherwise, you will find the carb very adjustable and as a result learn a lot about tuning it. 

Good luck with this.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

firefighter3931

Hi John,

With a Street Dominator & spacer combo the carb will be raised over stock height. Mancini makes a nice bracket that fits with aftermarket intake manifolds. This bracket keeps the throttle cable and factory kickdown linkage in-line. You will also need to mount the factory stud on the 20-7 adapter to complete the installation.

Mancini bracket :  https://www.manciniracing.com/thbrwikido4v.html

Here's a good pic of the way it should look
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

john108

Ron
Yes, I can see the angle difference.  Does that affect operation?  Would the vertical kick-down rod be too short?

Big Question:  My carb doesn't have the choke or air horn on top.  Is that a bigger problem.  Should or can it be added??

XH29N0G

Ron will know, but my thoughts.  If temperature is higher then 40-50 F, with my MSD and not minding waiting for it to warm up, I have no problem without a choke.  I think c00nhunter has said similarly in another post. 

The choke is convenient if it is colder or if you are not willing to wait to warm up.  I also think the MSD helps in my case.  :Twocents:

Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

john108

XH29N0G - Thank you for the information in both of your responses. 
Installing the kick-down linkage under the car had its difficulties because of the headers.
But, using the original linkage, without any adjustments, everything slid into place.
At the time, my concern was attaching the horizontal linkage above the engine (shown in pic).
And, yes, the throttle cable is stretched to its limit, and everything is angled, but seems to function.
We will see when I try to see if everything adjusts correctly.
Last resort, I may have to follow green69rt.
I am sure you are correct.  I hope Ron concurs with the no-choke.
It ran fine on the dyno but those guys control everything.

c00nhunterjoe

I have no choke horn and mine fires up in the dead of winter just fine. Is that really a 950? What do you have it on?

john108

The picture above has it 950 stamped on the side and the box is marked.
I could have easily been scammed.
I don't know what you mean "have on it" unless you are referring to blue tape.
It keeps me from dropping screws and sockets into the carb and accidentally opening the throttle plates.
The engine ran fine on the dyno.  The dyno curves are in my post in the proven engine section.

c00nhunterjoe

I will look up the post in the proven section. I see its a 505, my mistake, thought it was on a stockish 440 for some reason last night. 950 will be fine on even a mild 505.

firefighter3931

Quote from: john108 on May 29, 2020, 03:12:25 PM
Ron
Yes, I can see the angle difference.  Does that affect operation?  Would the vertical kick-down rod be too short?

Big Question:  My carb doesn't have the choke or air horn on top.  Is that a bigger problem.  Should or can it be added??



Hi John,

Looks like you made the factory bracket work ok. Did you raise it up ?

No problem with a slight angle as long as it doesn't bind up and you have full throttle travel. Check to make sure the throttle blades are fully open with the pedal on the floor.  ;)

With regards to the Mancini bracket ; yes the stock kickdown linkage has enough adjustment should you decide to go that route.  :2thumbs:

As for the choke ; you don't really need it in California. I'm in the Great White North and i've started mine at sub zero temps. Just feather the throttle on cold days and let it warm up before heading out for a drive.


Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

XH29N0G



The phrase 'Great white north' always makes me think of these guys.
Who in their right mind would say

"The science should not stand in the way of this."? 

Science is just observation and hypothesis.  Policy stands in the way.........

Or maybe it protects us. 

I suppose it depends on the specific case.....

john108

Ron
I had to stack 1/2 of washers under the bracket and use a 1/2 inch longer bolt to get the leg on the bracket to sit close to square on the step on the manifold.
John

firefighter3931

John,

That should work fine. If you find the throttle cable is too short you can order up a slant 6 cable (Dodge Dart) from Rock Auto. That's what I used on mine with the high rise intake. The slant 6 cable is 24in long which is a few inches longer than the factory 440 cable.  :yesnod:

Ron
68 Charger R/T "Black Pig" Street/Strip bruiser, 70 Charger R/T 440-6bbl Cruiser. Firecore ignition  authorized dealer ; contact me with your needs

john108