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Author Topic: Bird headlight door / pivot bracket issues  (Read 511 times)
graybo
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« on: July 20, 2020, 04:43:58 PM »

I am installing my original headlight door and pivot brackets into "new" headlight buckets.  I have a clearance issue.  I can get the doors flush and fitting nice in the nose...however,,  When I try to attach my vacuum actuators there is no room.  the bottom/inside vacuum hose bib is hitting the pivot bracket and forces the headlight door to rise, thus making my nose not flush or fitted.  I measured my aftermarket buckets and compared to my original the depth is the same? So I hope I'm missing something?  Any ideas fellas??? Thanks in advance.   The pics are "trying" to show the clearance issues.


* bucket clearance 1.jpeg (27.33 KB, 433x577 - viewed 255 times.)
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graybo
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« Reply #1 on: July 20, 2020, 04:46:20 PM »

another pic


* bucket clearance.jpeg (26.06 KB, 577x433 - viewed 244 times.)
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Sgt Superbird
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« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2020, 08:05:58 PM »

I'm going by memory, and what I think I see in your photos... Do you have part #26 on the headlight assembly diagram installed on the back of the bucket when you fit your actuators? I'm thinking that the plate adds a little more distance. If that's NOT what the issue is - sorry to chime in.
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Sgt Superbird
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« Reply #3 on: July 20, 2020, 08:07:35 PM »

3412 636 is the part number (X2)
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graybo
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« Reply #4 on: July 21, 2020, 05:23:36 AM »

I do have the plate #26.  Still the pivot frame is too close to the back of the bucket.
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Sgt Superbird
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« Reply #5 on: July 21, 2020, 05:45:17 AM »

Are you able to slide part #32 forward any? (The bucket assembly will have to fit "deeper" in the nose to re-align the doors, though.)
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graybo
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« Reply #6 on: July 21, 2020, 06:48:34 AM »

Are you able to slide part #32 forward any? (The bucket assembly will have to fit "deeper" in the nose to re-align the doors, though.)

I don't know the part #.  What is part #32.  Thanks. 
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nascarxx29
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« Reply #7 on: July 21, 2020, 07:42:39 AM »

http://www.superbirdbob.com/superbird-parts-list/superbird-parts-list/7680413
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1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701
nascarxx29
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« Reply #8 on: July 21, 2020, 11:47:26 AM »

Do you have these flat actuator bracket s
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=16631.0
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1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701
graybo
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« Reply #9 on: July 21, 2020, 02:15:59 PM »

Do you have these flat actuator bracket s
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=16631.0

I do have my original ones.  ONLY thing not original are the buckets.  Guess I'll keep working on it?Huh??
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DAY CLONA
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« Reply #10 on: July 21, 2020, 03:49:04 PM »

Usually there's 3 very thick washers for each of the 4 screws that hold the actuator plate stacked between the plate and the bucket to space the plate/actuator rearward for the pivot to close down against the inside of the bucket, they can be a chore to install, I usually superglue the stack of washers together on the plate... the washers are approx .060-.070 thick each, so a stack is a good 3/16" +....


might be hard to see but this is where the washer stacks must be, between the bucket and actuator plate, plus there is usually one 1/4" washer about 1/16" thick (one on each stud) that goes on the actuator stud BEFORE you mount it to the plate and nut it with a 1/4-20 nut w/spinning washer, this spaces out the actuator another 1/16"...so the total the actuator is away from the bucket surface is now a good 1/4" plus the mounting plate thickness


FYI... if you need thick small diameter washers for the 4 mounting screws to shim the plate, I find the aluminum "backing/backing plate washers" for 3/16 diameter pop rivets are the perfect candidate... cheap and plentiful at your local hardware store, you'll need 24 washers, usually come in packs of 10,20,50


Mike


* bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbuccckkkkkkkkkket.JPG (37.12 KB, 775x820 - viewed 154 times.)
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graybo
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« Reply #11 on: July 21, 2020, 04:22:57 PM »

Usually there's 3 very thick washers for each of the 4 screws that hold the actuator plate stacked between the plate and the bucket to space the plate/actuator rearward for the pivot to close down against the inside of the bucket, they can be a chore to install, I usually superglue the stack of washers together on the plate... the washers are approx .060-.070 thick each, so a stack is a good 3/16" +....


might be hard to see but this is where the washer stacks must be, between the bucket and actuator plate, plus there is usually one 1/4" washer about 1/16" thick (one on each stud) that goes on the actuator stud BEFORE you mount it to the plate and nut it with a 1/4-20 nut w/spinning washer, this spaces out the actuator another 1/16"...so the total the actuator is away from the bucket surface is now a good 1/4" plus the mounting plate thickness


FYI... if you need thick small diameter washers for the 4 mounting screws to shim the plate, I find the aluminum "backing/backing plate washers" for 3/16 diameter pop rivets are the perfect candidate... cheap and plentiful at your local hardware store, you'll need 24 washers, usually come in packs of 10,20,

Mike

Thank you Mike.  That was very well explained and much appreciated.  Doing what you stated, Does this make the vacuum hose very very tight to the back of the bucket?  Because mine will be hard to get the hose on it.
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DAY CLONA
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« Reply #12 on: July 21, 2020, 08:44:34 PM »

Usually there's 3 very thick washers for each of the 4 screws that hold the actuator plate stacked between the plate and the bucket to space the plate/actuator rearward for the pivot to close down against the inside of the bucket, they can be a chore to install, I usually superglue the stack of washers together on the plate... the washers are approx .060-.070 thick each, so a stack is a good 3/16" +....


might be hard to see but this is where the washer stacks must be, between the bucket and actuator plate, plus there is usually one 1/4" washer about 1/16" thick (one on each stud) that goes on the actuator stud BEFORE you mount it to the plate and nut it with a 1/4-20 nut w/spinning washer, this spaces out the actuator another 1/16"...so the total the actuator is away from the bucket surface is now a good 1/4" plus the mounting plate thickness


FYI... if you need thick small diameter washers for the 4 mounting screws to shim the plate, I find the aluminum "backing/backing plate washers" for 3/16 diameter pop rivets are the perfect candidate... cheap and plentiful at your local hardware store, you'll need 24 washers, usually come in packs of 10,20,

Mike

Thank you Mike.  That was very well explained and much appreciated.  Doing what you stated, Does this make the vacuum hose very very tight to the back of the bucket?  Because mine will be hard to get the hose on it.


It shouldn't, you can always adjust the amount of shimming you need for clearance, put the hose on before bolting in the actuator/bracket assy...are you using 68 or 69 vacuum actuators? I know the air grabber actuators have the vacuum vent tubes at different angles, the 68-9 actuators will be a 2XXXXXX part number, the air grabber canisters are a 35XXXXX pn IIRC... worst comes to worst, you can increase the opening in the bucket to clearance the line/port...

Mike
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still winging it at www.officialdayclona.com
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