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Author Topic: Engine build - exhaust  (Read 6622 times)
green69rt
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« Reply #125 on: June 14, 2020, 01:52:12 PM »

In Charlie's video, he commented that I had no tail pipes.  The car sounded pretty loud without them.  Probably the exhaust was causing some drumming under the car plus the muffler clamps were not tight so they rattled.  All is fixed now, got my new tips from Y1 on Friday, installed them yesterday along with the tail pipes.  Tightened everything up.  Fired it up and sounds nice.  Charlie will have to post another video to show how it sounds (I don't know how.)

So the car runs, but have some things to do.  Need the vacuum to the brake booster, I rolled the car out of the garage to clean the garage and that was exciting.   Lots of muscle to stop!

So....
Pic #1 tail pipes and tips installed
Pic #2 car setting outside  (under its own power!) for the first time in 13 years.
Pic #3 the empty garage, seems a little strange to have this much room.


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b5blue
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« Reply #126 on: June 14, 2020, 03:07:46 PM »

Hey nice tips! 2thumbs
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c00nhunterjoe
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« Reply #127 on: June 14, 2020, 03:34:42 PM »

Looks and sounds good
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Nickrc3
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« Reply #128 on: July 17, 2020, 08:17:05 PM »

 Mitch, I didn't observe a lift within your garage so I'm assuming you installed the engine from the top with a cherry picker? How did that go with the newly-painted engine compartment? Was the transmission mounted to engine or bolted in place from underneath vehicle? Any specific precautions taken (like applying layers of masking tape to fenderwells/shock towers) to prevent scratching?

Thanks.
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green69rt
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« Reply #129 on: July 18, 2020, 01:39:13 PM »

Mitch, I didn't observe a lift within your garage so I'm assuming you installed the engine from the top with a cherry picker? How did that go with the newly-painted engine compartment? Was the transmission mounted to engine or bolted in place from underneath vehicle? Any specific precautions taken (like applying layers of masking tape to fenderwells/shock towers) to prevent scratching?

Thanks.

Yes, I put the engine in from the top using an engine hoist.  I don't have the means or the roof height to go under, as some can.  Order of installation.
1. roll the trans under the car ( I could get the car high enough to do this.)
2. lower the car (still high enough to get under and work ( tires on blocks about 12" high)
3. lift the engine over the front and then tilt it down at the back.
4. tape blankets over both fenders (took these off later because I could see I had plenty of room and they were blocking my view.  But to prevent scratching and to help position the block, I used a lot of blocks of wood to hold the engine away from the firewall and fenders)
5. Lower the engine by very small amounts and move the blocks of wood around to keep everything in position and moving like I wanted. Check, check check.
6. When I could see that I was getting close to the point where I might be able to get the bell housing bolted up, stop.
7. Now start jacking the trans up in the front, I  used my floor jack under some plywood squares so I didn't damage the trans pan.  Support the tail shaft on a wooden cradle.
8. move the engine, move the trans, move the engine, move the trans.  Over and over.  
9 After about 30 or 40 minutes, I got it real close and tried to insert the dowls that line up the trans with the block.
10.  At this point I was pushing things around with my hands and finally got the dowls in and some of the bolts started.
11.  Kept jiggering things around till all bolts were started,  I was able to start them all by hand, I did NOT want to strip anything.
12.  Pull the bolts up snug but not torqued.
13.  The engine/trans is now supported on the front by the engine hoist and by the trans at the tail piece with some boards that I had made into a little cradle.
14.  Put the headers in and onto the head studs, don't bolt them up.  (What I missed here is to install the starter AND the wiring to the starter.  Caught it before I went to far but it was a close thing.)
15. Lower block onto motor mounts (You may want to test fit the motor mounts to the block before you lower the block because I had a bugger of a time getting some of the bolts to clear the headers.)
16. Bolt up the mounts and transmission mount.  ( test this before you start the engine install as bolt holes may need a little opening up.
17. Bolt up exhaust.

This is probably more than you wanted to know but it's pretty hot in Houston and I procrastinating on going outside to work on the car.

Cheers,
Mitch

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green69rt
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« Reply #130 on: July 18, 2020, 01:43:00 PM »

Mitch, I didn't observe a lift within your garage so I'm assuming you installed the engine from the top with a cherry picker? How did that go with the newly-painted engine compartment? Was the transmission mounted to engine or bolted in place from underneath vehicle? Any specific precautions taken (like applying layers of masking tape to fenderwells/shock towers) to prevent scratching?

Thanks.

Forgot to say that I have a automatic so no worry about lining up a trans input shaft to the crank or flywheel.
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green69rt
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« Reply #131 on: August 02, 2020, 11:29:58 AM »

Been hot in Houston so work going slow.  But I have needed to roll the car in and out of the garage.  One time when I was backing out, I goosed the gas a little too much.  Car didn't move more that 12" but broke the tires loose so easy, I was amazed.  I went back into the garage after parking outside.  This is what I found (took this picture later, just for fun!)

How many folks have burnout marks INSIDE their garage!



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birdsandbees
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« Reply #132 on: August 02, 2020, 01:34:06 PM »

 icon_smile_big


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« Reply #133 on: August 02, 2020, 02:29:09 PM »

Looks and sounds good

iagree
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"Dear God, my prayer for 2019 is a fat bank account and a thin body. Please don't mix these up like you did the last four years."
green69rt
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« Reply #134 on: August 02, 2020, 02:31:20 PM »

icon_smile_big

 lol
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b5blue
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« Reply #135 on: August 03, 2020, 07:17:39 AM »

 cheers
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