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73 Dodge Charger 400 big block help!!!

Started by Michaelgt450, September 24, 2020, 08:25:08 PM

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Nacho-RT74

check this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html

A bit old, maybe some things have changed but nice to be with eyes open.

Most of aluminium water pump housings are to pre 72 engine setups. 73s and lates housings were a more recent release.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Michaelgt450

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on September 30, 2020, 07:24:50 AM
check this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html

A bit old, maybe some things have changed but nice to be with eyes open.

Most of aluminium water pump housings are to pre 72 engine setups. 73s and lates housings were a more recent release.

Thank you so much for this I was about to make a big mistake so I guess don't get the aluminum housing stick with the stock one okay well now I know thanks... how about the rear main seal should I try to find the Rope Style?

Nacho-RT74

KB240 pistons ( old desing, new design got same size valve pockets )



this say to sit .020" down the hole with a blue printed block ( correctly decked per factory specs... which usually is not, but a bit higher ). Stock pistons usally sit .110-.130 down the hole or so





rear seal...

when making a rebuilt, rope seal is the best for me ( IMHO ), But with engine built, is nearly imposible to install it, so rubber seal is the only way to go. Some ppl would advice to install it a bit offset to prevent the leaks with matching edges between seal ends and cap.



this is not excluisve for mopars ALTHOUGHT its not uncommon having a Mopar and leave its oil mark ( couple of drops maybe ) where it parks LOL. That's just marking its territory LOL.

Pay attention to cap side seals. Sometimes we think the crack seal is the problem, but really the side seals could be a reason!!!
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Nacho-RT74

need to note I NOT MECHANIC!!! just fan of my car and learnt a lot while building... and i don't have life at this moment so hence the reason why I reply quick LOL... there are ppl with WAY more knowledgement than me. About mechanic at least!!!!

Quote from: Michaelgt450 on September 30, 2020, 08:04:32 AM
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on September 30, 2020, 07:24:50 AM
check this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html

A bit old, maybe some things have changed but nice to be with eyes open.

Most of aluminium water pump housings are to pre 72 engine setups. 73s and lates housings were a more recent release.

Thank you so much for this I was about to make a big mistake so I guess don't get the aluminum housing stick with the stock one okay well now I know thanks... how about the rear main seal should I try to find the Rope Style?

It is an interesting read BUT some stuff could have been changed since that. I know there are couple of more manufacturers now, and on those days just the pre 72 setup was available ( which gets the bottom outlet to driver side, while 73 and lates is passenger side ) from THAT manufacturer/seller. Juts pay attention on this if thinking on that part for your car.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Michaelgt450

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on September 30, 2020, 08:21:54 AM
need to note I NOT MECHANIC!!! just fan of my car and learnt a lot while building... and i don't have life at this moment so hence the reason why I reply quick LOL... there are ppl with WAY more knowledgement than me. About mechanic at least!!!!

Quote from: Michaelgt450 on September 30, 2020, 08:04:32 AM
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on September 30, 2020, 07:24:50 AM
check this:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60599.0.html

A bit old, maybe some things have changed but nice to be with eyes open.

Most of aluminium water pump housings are to pre 72 engine setups. 73s and lates housings were a more recent release.

Thank you so much for this I was about to make a big mistake so I guess don't get the aluminum housing stick with the stock one okay well now I know thanks... how about the rear main seal should I try to find the Rope Style?

It is an interesting read BUT some stuff could have been changed since that. I know there are couple of more manufacturers now, and on those days just the pre 72 setup was available ( which gets the bottom outlet to driver side, while 73 and lates is passenger side ) from THAT manufacturer/seller. Juts pay attention on this if thinking on that part for your car.


Thank you for all your knowledge your experience still matters this is not my first time rebuilding an engine so I know that the OEM stuff is way better than the aftermarket stuff there just no comparison... also when I was looking at that aluminum housing it said only for non-ac which my car has AC and I want to use it so that's out of the question also that's pretty cool to learn about those Pistons also I found some New Old Stock Parts rear main seal wondering if they would work on my engine https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Mopar-891457-Rear-Main-Rope-Seal-4-PC-Pkg/293575792280

Michaelgt450

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on September 30, 2020, 08:12:31 AM
KB240 pistons ( old desing, new design got same size valve pockets )



this say to sit .020" down the hole with a blue printed block ( correctly decked per factory specs... which usually is not, but a bit higher ). Stock pistons usally sit .110-.130 down the hole or so





rear seal...

when making a rebuilt, rope seal is the best for me ( IMHO ), But with engine built, is nearly imposible to install it, so rubber seal is the only way to go. Some ppl would advice to install it a bit offset to prevent the leaks with matching edges between seal ends and cap.



this is not excluisve for mopars ALTHOUGHT its not uncommon having a Mopar and leave its oil mark ( couple of drops maybe ) where it parks LOL. That's just marking its territory LOL.

Pay attention to cap side seals. Sometimes we think the crack seal is the problem, but really the side seals could be a reason!!!

Those Pistons are definitely not on my car... way different mind look

Michaelgt450

I have another question what size headers should I get for this engine 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 I'm looking at long tubes

Michaelgt450

This is how the engine looks now

Michaelgt450

My question is do I have to run a PCV valve with this breathers


Michaelgt450

If anybody's interested this was the video that we showed him my dad his car the reveal
https://youtu.be/_HSmGXPw4vI

spyder

You guys did a great job, beautiful car, love the ol' skool wheels.

Judging by your description those are probably an old set of "Arias" pistons, looks like they'd have plenty of compression, make sure you're running sufficient octane to prevent damaging the motor.

moparstuart

Quote from: Michaelgt450 on February 03, 2022, 12:40:52 AM
If anybody's interested this was the video that we showed him my dad his car the reveal
https://youtu.be/_HSmGXPw4vI
Fantastic    ,  great father son project     :2thumbs:
GO SELL CRAZY SOMEWHERE ELSE WE ARE ALL STOCKED UP HERE

Nacho-RT74

wowo! how clean it looks! is nice to keep the old paint waxed and how it came out, still with those paint chips!

I'd just replace the tail lights due the yellowed back up lense section, and done!

( damn how I miss my Charger!!! :'( )
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Michaelgt450

Quote from: spyder on February 03, 2022, 10:01:43 AM
You guys did a great job, beautiful car, love the ol' skool wheels.

Judging by your description those are probably an old set of "Arias" pistons, looks like they'd have plenty of compression, make sure you're running sufficient octane to prevent damaging the motor.
Thank you and I plan on keeping the old school Wheels and it sure feels pretty powerful I am using 91 I don't hear any destination I think the cam that I'm using lowered the compression a little so I think that helped... still need a lot of work to be done I'm thinking of changing the rear end to 355

Michaelgt450

Quote from: moparstuart on February 03, 2022, 10:43:21 AM
Quote from: Michaelgt450 on February 03, 2022, 12:40:52 AM
If anybody's interested this was the video that we showed him my dad his car the reveal
https://youtu.be/_HSmGXPw4vI
Fantastic    ,  great father son project     :2thumbs:

It still needs a lot of work when my dad was alive he wanted to paint it orange but I like black but I think I'm going to go with orange

Michaelgt450

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on February 03, 2022, 10:54:00 AM
wowo! how clean it looks! is nice to keep the old paint waxed and how it came out, still with those paint chips!

I'd just replace the tail lights due the yellowed back up lense section, and done!

( damn how I miss my Charger!!! :'( )

You know where is a good source to get the tail light... I don't know if you saw the video but in the video you can hear the valves too tight I had to get a adjustable rockers and it doesn't sound like that anymore..👍 I'm also thinking about getting aluminum driveshaft and an MSD ignition 6al or what do you think should I stick with the stock Mopar electrical ignition or should I upgrade to msdu or should I stick with the stock Driveline or aluminum

Nacho-RT74

I'm not an MSD lover soooo... my opinion is byassed. Not because they are bad since they are a valid option, but because most of the times for regular use an MSD system is not necesary. Some ppl have tested in races against some stock setups and the win is minimum. But at each own. It will depend on the rest of engine parts too.

Tail lights lenses. They are available repro allmost at any resto shop on $250-300 rate Sometimes good used can be found with aged look but not so yellowed if you want to match the rest of the car like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/324990385085 and this https://www.ebay.com/itm/224244822246 ( althought buying separatelly they could not match unless a light wax makes them look equal ), but it seems you got new grilles anyway, so new tail light lenses will be a nice add too.

housings, just used... and good luck with that if you wannna try!
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

Michaelgt450

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on February 03, 2022, 05:39:01 PM
I'm not an MSD lover soooo... my opinion is byassed. Not because they are bad since they are a valid option, but because most of the times for regular use an MSD system is not necesary. Some ppl have tested in races against some stock setups and the win is minimum. But at each own. It will depend on the rest of engine parts too.

Tail lights lenses. They are available repro allmost at any resto shop on $250-300 rate Sometimes good used can be found with aged look but not so yellowed if you want to match the rest of the car like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/324990385085 and this https://www.ebay.com/itm/224244822246 ( althought buying separatelly they could not match unless a light wax makes them look equal ), but it seems you got new grilles anyway, so new tail light lenses will be a nice add too.

housings, just used... and good luck with that if you wannna try!

The MSD I'm still thinking about still need to do more research about it just want to hear what other people have to say about that.. maybe the car starts better with the MSD don't know... definitely will be getting the tail light lens... I definitely want to get a fiberglass Hood also it definitely needs new carpet.. have you ever tried aluminum driveshaft??

Nacho-RT74

I don't have money for an aluminum driveshaft and export it to Venezuela LOL. Mostly sure some local shop could make it, but my money must go to another priorities right now.

There are A LOT of Fans of the MSD around and will post their positive opinions. Is true a faster start up and a cleaner gas burnt could be achieved. But still, I'm not a lover of it, but because I'm a stockish look guy. Before get my car into the body shop I was running the Rev-N-Nator ign module. But they are having stock issues as far I know.
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

RallyeMike

Awesome story.....  and love the 10 inch slots  :icon_smile_big:

Denny's Driveshafts (search on-line) makes really nice aluminum driveshafts.
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

ODZKing

Agree with Nacho on the MSD. First I believe they are less reliable than the Mopar boxes. I have had about 6 acquaintances get rid of them because they failed, some away from home.
Second the Mopar box is available just about everywhere so IF you break down on the road, you walk into an Auto Zone or Napa and pick one up. I have one on both my Chargers and only had 1 issue after all these years.
Just my  :Twocents:

Michaelgt450

Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on February 04, 2022, 04:37:28 PM
I don't have money for an aluminum driveshaft and export it to Venezuela LOL. Mostly sure some local shop could make it, but my money must go to another priorities right now.

There are A LOT of Fans of the MSD around and will post their positive opinions. Is true a faster start up and a cleaner gas burnt could be achieved. But still, I'm not a lover of it, but because I'm a stockish look guy. Before get my car into the body shop I was running the Rev-N-Nator ign module. But they are having stock issues as far I know.

How do those rev-N-nator ignition module work out for you is it pretty good quality also what kind of ignition coil would last long.. right now I have MSD blaster I was thinking of switching it to a ACDelco

Michaelgt450

Quote from: RallyeMike on February 05, 2022, 07:58:36 AM
Awesome story.....  and love the 10 inch slots  :icon_smile_big:

Denny's Driveshafts (search on-line) makes really nice aluminum driveshafts.

Thanks. are they good quality I will search online have you run aluminum driveshaft was it worth it??

Michaelgt450

Quote from: ODZKing on February 05, 2022, 10:21:43 AM
Agree with Nacho on the MSD. First I believe they are less reliable than the Mopar boxes. I have had about 6 acquaintances get rid of them because they failed, some away from home.
Second the Mopar box is available just about everywhere so IF you break down on the road, you walk into an Auto Zone or Napa and pick one up. I have one on both my Chargers and only had 1 issue after all these years.
Just my  :Twocents:

Thanks I will consider this maybe I'll just keep my stock one on for now I bought my stock ignition module NOS what ballast resistor works any?? I have a 5 point ignition module