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Author Topic: Hey experts can you (update) follow my paint plan so I don't mess up  (Read 11280 times)
AKcharger
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« on: October 16, 2020, 01:57:58 PM »

OK, well looks like I'm going to paint it now, I only seem to do painting every 5 years so just long enough for things to get "fuzzy" so here's plan

- Body work is about 98% complete, anything left will be a glaze dab here and there
- clean/degrease and sand to 320 grit and Epoxy prime
- wait 4hr then Poly/build prime
- Wait 12 hours then block sand to 500 grit and hit any high/low spots found re poly prime and block over worked areas
- Degrease, cheese cloth and base/clear
- Going with PPG Shopline...am familiar with PPG and have had good results

Did I miss anything?
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Canadian1968
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« Reply #1 on: October 16, 2020, 06:46:16 PM »

Well if that's what the TDS sheets recommend fo grit and dry time, then should be fine

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BLK 68 R/T
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« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2020, 09:17:22 PM »

Only thing I donít see, and donít know if itís required, sealer on the primer just before base coat gets applied?
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AKcharger
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« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2020, 09:50:42 PM »

Thx Blk, the Epoxy primer is supposed to sever as the sealer between the old substrate and new, and high build is supposed to be compatable with top coat

Canadian, automotive paints is one of the few times I read the instructions lol!
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Canadian1968
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« Reply #4 on: October 18, 2020, 09:01:19 AM »

Only thing I just noticed. You keep saying "poly" prime. Is that polyester or polyurethane primer .  If it's polyester , which is more or less a sprayable putty . You SHOULD put a sealer coat of some sort down before base coat. 
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AKcharger
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« Reply #5 on: October 18, 2020, 08:15:15 PM »

Correct, fill primer.. Ah, ok let me check, said it was suitable for top coats but ill double check!
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #6 on: October 18, 2020, 08:53:43 PM »

The Polyester Primer like the old featherfill & newer Slick Sand is catylized with a small clear tube of catylist similar to what you see in fiberglass resin. usually 4 tubes per gallon. Once this stuff kicks, in about a hour or 2 you can usually start sanding soon after. if you are using this they prefer you use a courser grit to prime over then regular primer to avoid bridging, if you know what that is. Instructions should be followed.  LEON.

P.S. I have a habit of sealing everything I paint if it needs it or not. Some people never seal anything. I know people like that, and seen them run into problems because of it.
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AKcharger
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« Reply #7 on: October 19, 2020, 06:43:06 AM »

Yup, using slick sand. Well seems like cheap insurance just to shoot some sealer over it...thanks HH!
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Canadian1968
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« Reply #8 on: October 19, 2020, 10:59:54 AM »

Sealer / Primer .

My preference is to spray your final coat of sealer/primer . Let it cure , and finish sand for base coat application  .

I prefer this over wet on wet process.
 In case there are any problems or defects when spraying the sealer / primer they can be sand out and your base will lay down nicer on the prepped surface rather whatever the sealer laid down like out of the gun.  Not to mention the potential problem of  incorrect flash time of the sealer which will effect everything you put on top.   
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #9 on: October 19, 2020, 09:32:32 PM »

Some prefer to seal, add 1 or 2 coats of base, let that dry, then sand, then reapply base. It's called denibbing. scratchchin Twocents
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Canadian1968
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« Reply #10 on: October 20, 2020, 06:37:23 AM »

Some prefer to seal, add 1 or 2 coats of base, let that dry, then sand, then reapply base. It's called denibbing. scratchchin Twocents

And for a beginner , can open up an endless chance for other errors to happen.    shruggy

I doubt you will admit it, but by avoiding the wet on wet process it compley eliminates a whole group of potentail problems.  The wet on wet is more a production process than anything.

The OP does not do this for a living or eveyday . I doubt has a spray booth and probably does not have all the tools that a professional shop does. Any chance to remove a potential problem that will not effect the finished result seem like a no brainer . Twocents

If your in the US and are still able to get solvent based  - base coat the denibbing is ALOT easier. Here in Canada we must use waterbourn base coat. This stuff is NOT user friendly for denibbing . Better to start with a nice CLEAN  prepped surface, apply base and clear end up with a nice beautiful finished product that requires little to no buffing or polishing .
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AKcharger
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« Reply #11 on: October 21, 2020, 03:25:13 PM »

Thanks guys, I was going to let 1st coat of base dry throughly and run a tack cloth over it to see if it catches on much dirt, if so was going to hit it lightly with 600 and then press with remaining coats of base followed after appropriate time by clear
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AKcharger
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« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2020, 06:50:14 PM »

Well on Schedule, start blocking tomorrow.  2thumbs
Next question, since its apart would there be any consequences for base coating a few panels at a time since it's all apart?  I know I had to HUSTLE all day to get those two sets of primers...I'm to lazy for that lol!


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Canadian1968
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« Reply #13 on: October 25, 2020, 07:11:26 AM »

Well the " ultimate job " is to do it with the panles off so there are no tape lines.  But that comes with its own challanges especially when spraying a metallic.

If I was in your position I would cut-in all the panles. So that means inside door jambs , underhood , trunk , back side of hood and trunk , inside edges of fenders . You basically have to do this regardless because I don't think you have the opportunity to paint the panle inside and out in one shot.

Cut everything in one day ( base and cleared ). Let dry for a few days. Then hang all your panels and paint the car as one .  Tape lines will be minimal if done correctly .  To me this better than painting panels off then trying to hang everything and pray that you don't bump scratch or chip an edge your fresh paint. Because now you have opened a new can of worms not going to be happy with !

It's looks like your doing an amazing job. Don't rush the process or get impatient .
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AKcharger
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« Reply #14 on: October 25, 2020, 07:32:03 AM »

...If I was in your position I would cut-in all the panles. So that means inside door jambs , underhood , trunk , back side of hood and trunk , inside edges of fenders .

...To me this better than painting panels off then trying to hang everything and pray that you don't bump scratch or chip an edge your fresh paint. Because now you have opened a new can of worms not going to be happy with


Huh...I REALLY like that idea! I was absoultly scared about reassembly after paint..plus I can get the fenders/hood adjusted/rigged without fear of buggering anything up! Brillient!

So just sand down the over spray base clear and spray away right?
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Canadian1968
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« Reply #15 on: October 25, 2020, 08:22:45 AM »

well depending where you are in your sanding
 If you have not started all your panles yet.

Start with the inside first. You don't have to be as crazy with the sanding. Typically  i just use 3M red scotch  Brite pads since there are so many different edges / angles. 

Don't sand the outside yet . for the most part you won't get much over spray on the other side excepts maybe on the fenders. A simple border of 1 1/2" back taped will eliminate almost all over spray .

Once cut in just flip over and block out as normal.

If you have already blocked everything I would do some masking so you don't get a heavy edge of over spray that you would have to block out  or even over the whole car. Which you would have to resand again !

Masking is easier than re sanding eveything again !
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AKcharger
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« Reply #16 on: October 25, 2020, 09:11:49 AM »

Yup, yup yup...I'm following you. Havent started any blocking yet, Altering plan. Have brother in law helping me for a few days on the sanding, will paint,  assemble THEN block! great advice thanks Can!
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #17 on: October 25, 2020, 11:08:35 AM »

I like to paint all my metallic cars with all the panels together. I do the solid colors separate sometimes. LEON.


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AKcharger
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« Reply #18 on: October 25, 2020, 05:44:46 PM »

Wow HH nice work!, I wish I had a set-up like that!
Yup the more I think about it with metalics you could have a panel appear lighter or darker based on how flakes sit... plus I'm not that good. Any hoo, plan now scuff inner areas, and have those painted by tomorrow night and reassemble Tuesday morning and continue the block party!
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AKcharger
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« Reply #19 on: October 26, 2020, 04:51:08 PM »

OK, insides done. went well thought I was VERY Suprised how transpartent the B/O was over the primer, 4/5 coats!  Still on schedule, reassembly tomorrow and block!


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Canadian1968
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« Reply #20 on: October 27, 2020, 03:32:53 PM »

Looks great !   

Generally speaking red and blue metallics are a nightmare for coverage ! 

A couple shades either way sometimes makes all the difference . But sometimes just got to work with what you have !

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AKcharger
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« Reply #21 on: October 27, 2020, 07:56:20 PM »

Yup, discover that on coverage
Car back together. I am SO GLAD I did it that way. Even being careful I still had a chip here or there but not in any critical areas. In addition, I really had to case my tail on fender/door gaps. I marked the shims but Maybe they were off originally?? In any event gaps good and block sanding in-progress, unfortunately off to work for. Few day


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AmadeusCharger500
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« Reply #22 on: October 27, 2020, 10:18:40 PM »

Wow I canít believe how fast youíre working. You had no body work?
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AKcharger
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« Reply #23 on: October 28, 2020, 06:49:59 AM »

The rear 1/4 had some dents I needed to work and some other spots here and there but nothing big. only real pain was the back window area as I had lots of welding there
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AKcharger
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« Reply #24 on: November 03, 2020, 09:43:45 PM »

Well tomorrow is the big day! hope I don't screw it up!  Oh, for the very last few ding repairs I mixed the last of the poly primer and "rolled it on" thick. I thought it was a good idea  scratchchin Anyway sand those few spots, seal and paint!


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