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Paint Restoration and Oxidization Repair

Started by BrokenHero, February 03, 2021, 12:58:02 AM

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BrokenHero

Has anyone paid to have their old oxidized paint buffed and restored by a detailing shop?

Basically what's shown here in this Chemical Guys video
https://youtu.be/s8v5ssdQ0WQ

My paint is very oxidized and sun faded. Wondering if it's even partially fixable and with the 500 or so bucks.

Thanks!
Ted
1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

70 sublime

next project 70 Charger FJ5 green

BrokenHero

Whoa, that's a great thread, thanks!
The burgundy looks great after buffing, etc.
1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

BrokenHero

I used the orbital electric polisher with Chemical Guys v36 cutting compound then v38 polish on the trunk lid. Looks better, but still has a white haze from certain angles.

I'm wondering if I used too much cutting compound, or used the pad too much after it was soiled with compound and old paint. Need to clean it before I do the next section. It's gone from orange to red.

If anyone has any tips, please let me know. Was hoping for slightly better results, although it is an improvement overall.

Thanks!
Ted
1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

WHITE AND RED 69

What type of pads are you using?

Looks like there is a buildup of compound which is leaving the haze. With that heavy oxidation you'll need to do a couple passes with the compound before moving to the polish and clean the pads constantly to see any results. If you have access to compressed air, give the pad a shot of air to blow out the junk after every panel. Once they are clogged up they aren't very effective so keeping them clean is a must.

1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

BrokenHero

Sounds good, thanks WHITE AND RED 69!

For pads I'm using Chemical Guys orange medium to heavy cutting lad with the v36 cutting compound then a white, lighter pad with the v38 polish.

I don't have compressed air, but washed my pads last night and am ready to try again on the same patch. (Trunk lid)

Would you suggest using less cutting compound since there is a buildup, or just spend more time with the buffer before wiping it off with the microfiber towel?

Or, give me this build up should I try to use water and a clean pad before buffing with more compound? Wondering if I should try to remove this buildup or just start again with the same five dots of compound on the pad per 2 by 2 foot area.

Thanks for your help!
Ted
1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

WHITE AND RED 69

The cleaner the pad the better it'll work. I'd go with the same amount of product but go with a 1x1 foot area to see if the results are better. This way there will be less buildup of junk in the pad and it'll let the compound do the work.

1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

73rallye440magnum

I'm a little late to this thread.

Ted, get aggressive with a wool pad and heavy compound. Even the cheap wool pad from Harbor Freight will give you great results.

Wool and compound will remove your oxidation and restore some depth.

If this platform wasn't so abysmal at pic sharing, I'd drop some photos of my buff and polish on my Coronet convertible. Car was resprayed late 70s, neglected, and I brought it back to life.
Current- 70 Charger XH29G Y3, F8, F8

Past- '73 Rallye U code, '69 Coronet 500 vert, '68 Roadrunner clone, XP29H8, XP29G8

BrokenHero

Thanks, guys! Much appreciated.

Do you think these wool pads would do the trick? Using on a 6 inch hook and loop/velcro polisher/buffer.

https://www.amazon.com/Polishing-Compound-Motorcycle-Refrigerator-Furniture/dp/B07YKBGWW8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=32TC0Y5OLBWSQ&dchild=1&keywords=wool%2Bcutting%2Bpad%2B6%2Binch&qid=1613674181&sprefix=wool%2Bcutting%2Bpad%2Caps%2C209&sr=8-5&th=1

Do you think I could keep using Chemical Guys V36 (https://www.chemicalguys.com/v36-optical-grade-cutting-polish/v36-cutting-polish.html) or should I switch it up to Meguiars Ultimate Cutting Compound or M110. The guy with the burgundy 68 (ribeye) used Meguiars M110 but I'm wondering if it creates too much dust for an apartment complex garage.

Thanks!
Ted
1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

73rallye440magnum

Buy the cheap Harbor Freight buffer, or Amazon equivalent. Do you share your garage with others?
Current- 70 Charger XH29G Y3, F8, F8

Past- '73 Rallye U code, '69 Coronet 500 vert, '68 Roadrunner clone, XP29H8, XP29G8

BrokenHero

Okay, gotcha. Yeah other people park directly to the left of me but the right side is clear.

Thanks!!
1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

BrokenHero

Here are some much better results with a wool pad.

Thanks for the pointers! Any further pointers are appreciated.

Should I take multiple passes to make it better or quit while I'm ahead?

https://youtu.be/eTZh45qdmkQ

1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA

BrokenHero

Do people think this white haze is over buffing and burning through to primer or just oxidation that hasn't been removed?

https://youtu.be/YeQaK5IKWVc

Thanks. Much appreciated
1968 Dodge Charger
383 4 barrel
PP1 red, black vinyl top
Los Angeles, CA