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Questions for people with car trailers

Started by AKcharger, November 28, 2021, 05:55:56 PM

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AKcharger

I'm taking my '70 to Carlise in July and decided to trailer it up for show.  Plan is tow with 2014 Jeep Gran Cherokee Diesel, with tow package (good for 7200lbs) and use an open full-size trailer like below. Trailer weight advertised at 1900 and car 4000 so 6000lbs gives me a 1200lbs safety margin

- Thoose trailers have electric brakes right?
- Is there a trailer type to look for or avoid? I'd like a lighter one of course
- Would love enclosed but too hevey

Anyway, looking for any tips or suggstions.



DownZero

I believe that jeep requires a WD hitch for anything over 3500 lbs. Depending on how much you load the jeep. You may end up over your payload capacity. You'll probably end up with 700-900 lbs toung weight.

birdsandbees

Pulling any trailer with a B body or any similar weight on it you should be using a weight distribution hitch period and yes you definitely better have working brakes on that trailer or you'll push that jeep right out of the way on the first panic stop.
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

AKcharger

Thanks Kern Dog and appreicate the tips!

:scratchchin: weight distribution hitch...I've on;t seen those with RV's...that's on the TRAILER side right?  my hitch is the factory one, not sure how I'd work that




birdsandbees

Yes, buy the unit complete from receiver out. Make sure you use the sway control, especially behind the short wheelbase of that Jeep. WD unit shown in the picture can be acquired through Costco online cheaper than anywhere else on the planet. I bought mine through Costco.ca here in Canada for 1/2 the price of any supply house.
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

Kern Dog

Usually I can look at something and understand how it works. I'm going to need to see a weight distribution hitch in person to make sense of it. The picture is clear but I don't see how it functions.

birdsandbees

Think of it as two leaf springs joining the truck and trailer. Instead of the tongue weight lowering the ass end of the truck and nose of the trailer the bars tie the two together and distribute the weight through both units.
1970 'Bird RM23UOA170163
1969 'Bee WM21H9A230241
1969 Dart Swinger LM23P9B190885
1967 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S
1966 Plymouth Satellite HP2 - 9941 original miles
1964 Dodge 440 62422504487

Kern Dog

Interesting. I'm even more curious. I still need to see one up close.

Mytur Binsdirti


AKcharger

Quote from: birdsandbees on November 28, 2021, 11:53:59 PM
Think of it as two leaf springs joining the truck and trailer. Instead of the tongue weight lowering the ass end of the truck and nose of the trailer the bars tie the two together and distribute the weight through both units.

Ah! thanks, I always wondered about that too but was scared to ask  :laugh:

hemigeno

I've used WD hitches before - and if you have the bar's link chains adjusted WAY too tight, you can literally lift the rear tires completely off the ground when cinching it down.  100% transfer of the tongue weight (and back half of the truck) to the front axle.   :o


Dano 1

I've trailered quite a few vehicles over the years, most recently my '69 during a move. I bought a Cam Superline 18' trailer for moving tools/equipment and the Charger and would highly recommend them if they're available in your area.

B-Bodies are heavy vehicles so I would get the beefiest trailer you can find. Typically car trailer axles will be rated for either 3500lbs or 5000lbs each and with two axles that nets you a gross weight rating of 7000lbs or 10000lbs, subtracting the trailer weight of around 2000lbs gives you 5000lbs and 8000lbs payload ratings. For a b-body I would recommend a 10000lb capacity trailer since you will be pushing the limits on a 7000lb unit. Larger capacity trailers usually have brakes on both axles and heftier frames as opposed to only one braked axle on lower weight units.

My wife's daily is a 2014 Durango (basically the same platform as the jeep) which we used during the move to pull the car trailer with garage equipment/tools and I can confirm they are very sensitive to tongue weight. I used my F250 to pull the trailer with the Charger and did not use a weight distribution hitch. The truck is rated for much more tongue weight and could handle the Charger just fine.

1969 Charger 383 2bbl, R4 red, White hat special project

Check out my website for 3D printed restoration parts and accessories.
www.nextgendesignsnc.com

RallyeMike

Your Jeep has the equivalent tow rating of a 1/2T truck, but with the disadvantage of unit body construction and short wheelbase. I would go with a lighter weight trailer with premium brakes. You don't want the tail wagging the dog. If you find yourself towing more often, I would consider and upgrade to your tow rig. It makes all the difference.

Aluminum would be awesome but is more spendy. Tilt decks are convenient and can lessen the possibility of damage loading/unloading.
1969 Charger 500 #232008
1972 Charger, Grand Sport #41
1973 Charger "T/A"

Drive as fast as you want to on a public road! Click here for info: http://www.sscc.us/

69F8C500

Depending on where you live you have to put hills into consideration. PA is not the flattest state so you might have to tackle some hills.

AKcharger


Todd Wilson

I would not pull a B body with the Jeep at all.......................


Todd


HPP

At first glance it does appear a Cherokee pulling a Charger is a gross mis-match. However, I'd bet your Jeep is in the neighborhood of 5000+ pounds. This helps the equation a bit. The shorter wheelbase is not ideal, but manageable. Not sure of the specs on the diesel engine, but it should be able to pull adequately to not be a rolling road block. Obviously hills and twisting roads can be a concern while interstate travel should be no big deal.

It certainly can be done. Adding the equalizing hitch will help with weight distribution, cornering and blow by of semi trucks. Make sure you have electric brakes on the trailer, a controller in the Jeep, and give yourself adequate stopping distance and you should be okay.

Aero426

Quote from: HPP on November 30, 2021, 09:19:51 AM
At first glance it does appear a Cherokee pulling a Charger is a gross mis-match. However, I'd bet your Jeep is in the neighborhood of 5000+ pounds. This helps the equation a bit. The shorter wheelbase is not ideal, but manageable. Not sure of the specs on the diesel engine, but it should be able to pull adequately to not be a rolling road block. Obviously hills and twisting roads can be a concern while interstate travel should be no big deal.

It certainly can be done. Adding the equalizing hitch will help with weight distribution, cornering and blow by of semi trucks. Make sure you have electric brakes on the trailer, a controller in the Jeep, and give yourself adequate stopping distance and you should be okay.

I think this is accurate and good advice.   It would not be my first choice for long distance towing.   Biggest deal is the wheelbase compared to the length of the trailer and weight.   It's not that it won't pull it.   It just leaves you less of a margin of safety.  

My friend recently sold his 1955 Packard on Bring a Trailer.   The transporter (relative of the new owner) showed up in a Chrysler minivan and a U-Haul trailer (no electric brakes).    He pulled it 1200 miles back to Houston.    The guy was very experienced and the van has some brake and suspension upgrades.    But there's no way I would have attempted this.   There is also a V8 engine block in back of the van.  

Mytur Binsdirti


nvrbdn

70 Dodge Charger 500
70 Duster (Moulin Rouge)
73 Challenger
50 Dodge Pilot House

DownZero

Very experienced in what? Certainly not in towing. Anyone with an iota of knowledge would not attempt such a fool hardy idea. You can only upgrade a mini van so much.

b5blue

Why not a car dolly? Just remove the drive shaft.   :scratchchin: 

AKcharger

Quote from: b5blue on November 30, 2021, 04:05:12 PM
Why not a car dolly? Just remove the drive shaft.   :scratchchin: 

I liked the idea of just driving it on/off and being done, I might go that route

1970Moparmann

I drive A LOT with work and have seen some crazy things on the road with SUV's towing a large trailer.    Even though your Jeep can technically do it, I would only do it on side type roads and not the expressway.   I'm sure you would be careful, but your talking a lot of miles and if it is windy, good luck.  Your stress wouldn't be worth it.   The last crazy thing I saw is a Mercedes SUV towing a boat that was about 24' in length.   He drove past me at about 80 mph, and about 45 minutes later traffic was all backed up because he lost control and the boat, with the trailer, landed upside down and his SUV in a ditch.....

I have towed about 40,000 miles worth with cars and personally wouldn't do it with anything smaller than a 1/2 ton crew cab, or extended cab pickup.   My older F150 even struggled with my Charger when going through hill country.   Just my  :Twocents:   
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!