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Console Glove Box Door ...can't get it to line up properly

Started by Dodge Don, June 18, 2006, 06:34:59 PM

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Dodge Don

I'm reassembling my console and I can't get the freaking glove box/stowage door to close properly. It just won't allign. It was fine when I tore it apart now I'm at my wits end with this puzzle. Any words of wisdom.

I've adjusted it 8 ways from Sunday and it wont line up right at all.

694spdRT

Is it pretty close or way off?

I don't know if there is a prefered method but, this worked for me as I just put my new L & P console in and had to do it from scratch. What worked for me was first using the screws in the console body for lining up the front and back edge while making sure the cover was flush on the passenger side. I tightened them just enough to hold but not so much that I couldn't persuade it a little. After that I used the acorn style nuts in the lid to adjust the side to side clearance so the door would shut properly and look right. I did the same tight but not too tight approach there. Last thing was adjusting the latch on the console body to pull the console door as tightly closed as possible.

I have not seen many of these "perfect" in cars but, it looks as good as I can get it without fine tuning it by bending the top over my knee.  :icon_smile_big:   
1968 Charger 383 auto
1969 Charger R/T 440 4 speed
1970 Charger 500 440 auto
1972 Challenger 318
1976 W200 Club Cab 4x4 400 auto 
1978 Ramcharger 360 auto
2001 Durango SLT 4.7L (daily driver)
2005 Ram 2500 4x4 Big Horn Cummins Diesel 6 speed
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Hemi

Just 6T9 CHGR

Mine is not perfect either but at least it closes & opens :thumbs:
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


resq302

I think it has to do with the tension of the spring.  I had a broken spring hinge on my car and the console door closed and lined up perfectly.  The new spring hinge I installed was causing it to keep the one corner of the door up just a bit enough to make it noticeable and frustrating.  I am seriously thinking about taking the spring out to make it sit flat.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

CCHARGER

hey 694spd rt, would you happen to have a pic of the console door lock striker( or what ever you call the part the lock locks to)?

thanks in advance

ccharger

694spdRT

I can try to get one tommorow. It is a small piece of metal approximately 1" x 1" with two screw holes.
1968 Charger 383 auto
1969 Charger R/T 440 4 speed
1970 Charger 500 440 auto
1972 Challenger 318
1976 W200 Club Cab 4x4 400 auto 
1978 Ramcharger 360 auto
2001 Durango SLT 4.7L (daily driver)
2005 Ram 2500 4x4 Big Horn Cummins Diesel 6 speed
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Hemi

CCHARGER

hey 694spdrt, any luck with the pic of the console latch/striker?
thanks

CCHARGER

694spdRT

Sorry, I spaced that one ccharger and now the car is all buttoned up to leave for the Charger Registry meet. I will get one posted when I get back.
1968 Charger 383 auto
1969 Charger R/T 440 4 speed
1970 Charger 500 440 auto
1972 Challenger 318
1976 W200 Club Cab 4x4 400 auto 
1978 Ramcharger 360 auto
2001 Durango SLT 4.7L (daily driver)
2005 Ram 2500 4x4 Big Horn Cummins Diesel 6 speed
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Hemi

TylerCharger69

Here's a thought....when you remounted the console.....where it screws onto the brackets.....since the whole unit has some flexibility to it, you may have to go in and kinda shift the console around, and retighten the screws until it's straight....It took a few times with mine  to get the alignment correct on the door.   But...I've removed that since then  so I don't even deal with that console anymore....lol

Dodge Don

I got it to work. I figured out that the metal rod that goes through the hinges and curves up against the end of the hinge assembly was too stiff and was bending the upper portion of the hinge assembly causing the whole lid to be off kilter. So I held my breath and cut the curved section off.....tad da....it worked. Lines up nice. No tension on the door when you open & close it but what the hell. At least it looks correct when closed.

AKcharger

Hey don if you can remember back 15 years about was that a new hing or the orignal one? I'm battling with this now, looks like hinge is "warped"

charger Downunder

Quote from: TylerCharger69 on June 30, 2006, 02:56:28 PM
Here's a thought....when you remounted the console.....where it screws onto the brackets.....since the whole unit has some flexibility to it, you may have to go in and kinda shift the console around, and retighten the screws until it's straight....It took a few times with mine  to get the alignment correct on the door.   But...I've removed that since then  so I don't even deal with that console anymore....lol
This is so true a couple of spacer between the console and bracket, i had to put mine in and remove it a few times before getting it good.
[/quote]

AKcharger

I see what your saying..but was your door like this? seems like hinge is bad?

AKcharger

As soon as I "de-sprung" the hinge it fits fine. It's the torque of the hinge spring that's the problem

charger Downunder

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