aftermarket gauges in stock dash?!?!?

[Aussiemadonmopars]

Well it looks like they have sold a few on e-bay. I'm  still going to wait till I here of someone from the board here who has bought one and is happy with it.

[comet_666]

What about these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAKOTA-DIGITAL-68-70-Dodge-Charger-Super-Bee-Dash-Instrument-System-VHX-68D-CHG-/371130759800?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item56691dfa78

Not sure I like the look of the gauges themselves but to have a fully functional brand new system for $1k is probably less than I would spend to re do mine with the standard gauges.

[myk]

What about these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAKOTA-DIGITAL-68-70-Dodge-Charger-Super-Bee-Dash-Instrument-System-VHX-68D-CHG-/371130759800?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item56691dfa78

Not sure I like the look of the gauges themselves but to have a fully functional brand new system for $1k is probably less than I would spend to re do mine with the standard gauges.

I was wondering if all of the products we're looking at are from the same manufacturer? 

[Dino]

What about these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAKOTA-DIGITAL-68-70-Dodge-Charger-Super-Bee-Dash-Instrument-System-VHX-68D-CHG-/371130759800?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item56691dfa78

Not sure I like the look of the gauges themselves but to have a fully functional brand new system for $1k is probably less than I would spend to re do mine with the standard gauges.

Those are sweet!  It's  a lot of money but you'd never have to worry about gauges again!

You could redo yours for a lot less than a grand though.  I'm not talking about painting chrome, nice repro bezels are available, but redo your own gauges or buy them new.  Once calibrated they're not bad at all.

[comet_666]

I was working on my cluster last night and one of the pins on the circuit board is missing and another is flopping around. I also noticed that I need a new alt gauge and mine is missing a tac, just has the blank. I could spend $125 on a new circuit board and $80 on a alt gauge and another $200 on a tac in there but just to replace those is around $400-$500 plus I don't know if any of the other gauges work correctly or at all. I was also going to get all new wiring harnesses for the car from YO which will cost about $1000. The way I see this Dakota one is I will not need a dash harness, just a painless kit for the whole car which is around $600.

Thoughts?

[Dino]

I was working on my cluster last night and one of the pins on the circuit board is missing and another is flopping around. I also noticed that I need a new alt gauge and mine is missing a tac, just has the blank. I could spend $125 on a new circuit board and $80 on a alt gauge and another $200 on a tac in there but just to replace those is around $400-$500 plus I don't know if any of the other gauges work correctly or at all. I was also going to get all new wiring harnesses for the car from YO which will cost about $1000. The way I see this Dakota one is I will not need a dash harness, just a painless kit for the whole car which is around $600.

Thoughts?

The circuit board can be fixed very cheap but yes the rest does add up.  Let me ask you this, which type of dash would you prefer to have?

[comet_666]

That is a tough question. I do really like the original one as far as looks and I am all for keeping it original looking, however the way I am redoing my car the main focus of it is going to be I want to drive the hell out of it. I have owned it for 20 years and in all that time have put probably 3000 miles on it, mind you for the past almost 9 years it has been in restoration limbo but I want functionality.
Boils down to looks vs functionality. I don't love the look but I would love the accuracy and functionality.

[Brock Lee]

We are currently working with one of these sets.



We just started the project yesterday. I will post my experience. I am not too crazy about the extreme mods that had to be done to the original cluster housing. But if that is the worst part, I can live with it.

[TexasStroker]

I have my entire dash disassembled (albeit in the car) for a lot of changes.

Classic was to send me the black one to showcase and I went out and got the CF to have both on hand so people could see the difference and make the call.  I got the run around from them on why they hadn't shipped it...then last communication from earlier this year was that the guy was going to the warehouse to personally send one.  I tried touching base with them a week ago in terms of a match for the look of CF they have to use elsewhere and got nothing.

They were pretty good to work with early on and the guy I found who had ALL the pieces they wanted got his prototype taken care of...We had agreed I would showcase the dash (unboxing and install), but that is a bit hard to do when they never send one out.  I bought the CF on my own, in good faith that the black dash was coming.

It is a very nice, much needed piece and I think if you go direct thru their site you won't have issues.  It is probably just a selective ignoring on my end, lol.  The guy I dealt with was very nice and professional up until we got to the "send out the free dash for helping part."  I'd be fine with them telling me they couldn't hold their end, or didn't have the ability to take a loss etc., but I am not a fan of getting the run around and BS for several months.  If you search the net this thread, one on my LSM site, and the video are their best advertisements for the product (at least in my opinion).

My honest advice for anyone looking to get this is to order it thru Classic Industries when it is on sale.

The finish is very nice, but there are a few shortcomings.  The entire trim piece above the glovebox has no studs, so you'll likely have to use epoxy/velcro etc.  I also think the radio plate should have been a stand alone piece, although it looks good with no seam.  You also have no indicator light openings (turn and brights), but that could be conceived as them wanting to keep the dash clean and allowing the end user to customize the dash (factory location, separate plate etc).

I had already modded a factory cluster housing to accept aftermarket gauges from the stock dash, so it isn't a big deal to me...But as Brock cited, you do have to trim that back...My piece,  probably the first one Classic Ind. shipped out (literally had to get them to add the product to their site, then order it) does not have any form of instructions or advice...

If you look back at this thread, this is an update I have wanted for  a LONG time.  To date, this is the slickest offering imo.  I am not a fan of the price of the Dakota Digital offering (if it included the bezel at that price, I would leave it to personal preference).  My only complaint, aside from a few omissions is that they made the 4th gauge down below the top 3.  In our initial communications I had stressed how important it was to the respective buyers that the dash should be as close to stock as possible and have 4 gauges in-line (I know it can be done...a few in this thread have done it and that is without a from scratch piece).  What I suggested they do is have 2 offerings for buyers:
-Option 1: Four Gauges in sequence just like the factory
-Option 2: Four Gauges across the top, and 1 down below for guys with Boost/Trans. Temp/AFR etc.

What they made is very nice and will fit the bill for folks like myself.  It does require some irreversible modifications to your housing, but I figure most won't care, or have a spare on hand to modify (that's what I do anyway...I can go back to stock anytime).  I think, once I reassemble everything, I will be happy and like the aesthetics of the update in the Charger...as long as that happens it is all good.

If I get time this weekend, I can post some pics...my hold up right now is my plan for the dash frame AND possibly replacing the wiring etc.

I'm not bashing Classic Dash...I approached them with this idea...found a guy with all the pieces...and had a deal to showcase the new product with an unboxing and install...They simply seem to have opted out on their end.  I still credit them for working with Edward and myself to bring this to the market...even if I had to buy the thing, lol. Ironically I planned to use the black one they were sending...I ordered in CF to make a better showcase vid and loved it.

I wish I could show everyone the two side-by-side, but I need the cash for wiring, not a bezel.

Sorry for the long post...I will still make a fairly detailed install vid to help everyone out and let you decide if this is right for you etc.

[Brock Lee]

We are going to use the same screws all around and use a washer and nut on the above the glovebox area. That way all the screws match. There are a couple screw holes that are not aligning perfectly with the cluter housing, but I am not sure if it is a deformation in the housing now that most of the metal has been cut away. There are areas that feel kind of clumsy.

I assumed they left the signals out so you could put them where you want them. They gave us LED's, so just a small hole needs to be drilled.

Did you get their gauges as well?

[TexasStroker]

You got LEDs with the panel?!  I sure as heck didn't...

I agree though, I think they left that out so as to allow the end user the chance to replicate the factory positions, mount them on a steering column plate, under the dash, etc.

I got the blank panel...I already have my gauges.  My initial plan was the black panel with my ES gauges (have all but the speedometer).  I am going to put what I have in place and decide if I want to paint the bezel's on the ES, or go with something else like the Sport Comp II.  Had I known I would have the CF Panel I would have gone that route to begin with...I think there is still potential for the ES line though.  I know they are "red" but to me they glow orange...maybe it's just being biased, haha.

I am waiting to see if I'll be free and can progress this weekend, or not.  Looking forward to seeing yours finished since it sounds like that will happen!

For those curious as to how things look, here are some rough-in shots:

[Brock Lee]

Yes, I got the LED's. But we also bought the whole shebang. Gauges, wiring, etc. They probably were part of that package. It should be done sometime next week.

[TexasStroker]

Nice, I will have to spring for some on my own...I'm thinking I'll use factory locations.

Looking forward to seeing it wrapped up...Are you going to tap into the factory harness, or wire from scratch?  I'm thinking I'll just go from scratch and terminate everything so I can easily remove the cluster.

[Brock Lee]

The plan is to wire from scratch. The whole dash came out for this project, so we are going to do some wiring work while everything is out anyway. Get rid of butt connectors and other hacked old repairs.

[TexasStroker]

That is basically where I am at.  I have the dash frame in the car, but it is totally stripped down.  There are a lot of questionable splices and what not so I have been debating going aftermarket with Ron Francis/AAW, or modifying M&H.

I think most folks would have paid a little extra for Classic Dash to include a harness of some sort.  I would still wire it myself, but the more plug-and-play the dash/gauge set it is the better it will move.

[mopar0166]

Started mine, im using 2" small gauges and 5 " big gauges.

only obstacle I see beside cutting up a dash is the two big 5 " gauges will need a custom touch to make squeeze into the stock spots. 

ill post some pics this week. 

[TexasStroker]

Started mine, im using 2" small gauges and 5 " big gauges.

only obstacle I see beside cutting up a dash is the two big 5 " gauges will need a custom touch to make squeeze into the stock spots. 

ill post some pics this week. 

Good luck.  I got burned out trying to make a satisfactory "modified" factory cluster and hit up CD about making the panels earlier in the thread.  I had the most trouble with the 4 gauges as the bezels would rub.  I have a few wooden panels I made where they fit perfect, but the factory orientation just never allowed me to mount them as clean as I would like.  A few of the early, early pics in this thread were hit on the bezels with a belt sander to flatten the edges out and allow them to clear...you honestly can't tell if you get the radius right imo.

[mopar0166]

I think I got the 4  2" gauges nailed, im on to the 2 5" gauges and having them fit between the stock directionals

[mopar0166]

so i made templates last night and laid out everything into a stock dash bezel.  going to two 5" gauges will create a small fitment issue with the left stock direction but it seems to be only about an 1/8 inch that has to shaved on the part of the bezel.  I think if I shave down the areas of the small gauges that conflict as well , I can get it all to fit rather well and keep a semi stock looking dash , instead of moving gauges.   should be done by the end of the weekend , will have new pics to post. 

[TexasStroker]

Cool deal, looking forward to seeing it!  If anyone could repop a dash pad that didn't suck I'd have mine in as well.  Bottlenecks always happen where you least suspect them.

[mopar0166]

ok, did some fab work this weekend, finished modifying the metal dash case,  took a lot of materal of the stock bezel, but I got everything to fit good.

now I have to make a backing plate for the gauges to secure to and finish the fab. 


the is a pic of a rough look at the two 5 " gauges in the stock bezel obviously loose but its all coming to gether nicely


no plug and play here. 

[mopar0166]

my phone went dead or I would have more pics,

I designed so the two big gauge's are outside the bezel and the 2" gauges will be inside the bezel kinda like the stock ones

[oldcarnut]

Not to get off topic too much but I've been thinking of having my 70 Woodgrain steering wheel done in real wood.  Doesn't seem like it would be too hard with a lathe capable of that dia.  Is yours real wood and I see its riveted like my Firebird wheel was.  Anyone done theirs in real wood?

[mopar0166]

I went with an after market one,  it was the closet style to stock tiny bit smaller but real wood and I love it.  Wasn't had to put in

[mopar0166]

JAAKS was a lot of help and his method of installing the small 2" gauges worked wonderful.  im glad I didn't try to reinvent the wheel with the small gaagues, ill be working on the mounts for the big gauges then making everything look pretty