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Author Topic: Need pics of 69 Hemi torque boxes  (Read 2195 times)
Daytona R/T SE
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« on: October 20, 2006, 09:51:10 PM »

I'm getting ready to install my "Hemi" torque boxes on my car and would like to see some close-up pics of original cars with these installed, just to make sure I get them on right...a shot of the pinion snubber reinforcement and the rear leaf sring hanger reinforcement plates would be nice too...  Grin
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daytonalo
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« Reply #1 on: October 21, 2006, 11:13:36 AM »

Are you going to use sub- con on your daytona ? I used the u.s car tool trim to fit and they look and fit awesome . The factory should have done it this way , no comparsion to any other sub -con.
                                                                                                                          Larry
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Daytona R/T SE
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« Reply #2 on: October 21, 2006, 03:31:17 PM »

Are you going to use sub- con on your daytona ? I used the u.s car tool trim to fit and they look and fit awesome . The factory should have done it this way , no comparsion to any other sub -con.
                                                                                                                          Larry

Larry, I'm using the U.S Cartool subframe connectors AND the hemi torque boxes and b-body convertible frame braces from Harms auto...You can never get it too stiff  Wink


* BBody-Hemi--Convertible.jpg (5.85 KB, 267x200 - viewed 655 times.)
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THE CHARGER PUNK
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« Reply #3 on: October 21, 2006, 03:50:25 PM »

sorry bud i spent half the night lookin 4 pics and nothing came up, ill keep tryin tho-MATT
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daytonalo
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« Reply #4 on: October 21, 2006, 10:21:32 PM »

I guess , with the us car tool I think the boxes wont add any stiffness , just my two cents .
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Daytona R/T SE
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« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2006, 11:26:48 PM »

I guess , with the us car tool I think the boxes wont add any stiffness , just my two cents .
                                                                                                   Larry

Yeah, but they look cool, so what the hell Wink
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #6 on: October 25, 2006, 10:07:15 PM »

I just added some of these to a 70 Cuda. They pretty much fit in one area only. You cant be off by to much. LEON.
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Daytona R/T SE
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« Reply #7 on: October 25, 2006, 10:30:55 PM »

I just added some of these to a 70 Cuda. They pretty much fit in one area only. You cant be off by to much. LEON.

Yep, found that out! They kinda only go one way! Embarrassed
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #8 on: October 26, 2006, 09:05:32 PM »

Heres what they look like on 70 Cuda. LEON


* cudatorqueboxes.jpg (45.23 KB, 576x432 - viewed 740 times.)
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hemi-hampton
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« Reply #9 on: October 26, 2006, 09:12:40 PM »

Not sure if you can see in pic but look at the very back middle & you'll see my Home made Pinion Snubber reinforcement plate. About 1/4 inch thick steel with solid continuous weld. Aint going anywhere, Should take a beating. Homemade Subframe connectors also since after markets are made straight with out the curve you need to fit right. LEON.
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daytonalo
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« Reply #10 on: October 27, 2006, 07:40:55 AM »

As far as sub-con , check out my post on the U.S car tool install , they weld to the floor ,unlike yours and the orig pair I had . They look factory and makes any other method like like toothpicks !
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lilwendal
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« Reply #11 on: October 28, 2006, 06:14:45 AM »

Daytona RT. Call Scott back at Harms 509-922-9115 and ask him for some pics.  He sent me a couple close ups of original installs and the TQ boxes he sells installed on various cars. Helped me with getting mine in. I cant seem to find the file on my computer .
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Daytona R/T SE
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« Reply #12 on: October 28, 2006, 06:46:39 AM »

Daytona RT. Call Scott back at Harms 509-922-9115 and ask him for some pics.  He sent me a couple close ups of original installs and the TQ boxes he sells installed on various cars. Helped me with getting mine in. I cant seem to find the file on my computer .

Good idea, Thanks!...
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AutoRust
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« Reply #13 on: November 02, 2006, 03:59:42 PM »

I guess , with the us car tool I think the boxes wont add any stiffness , just my two cents .
                                                                                                   Larry

Actually,  sub frame connectors and torque boxes work in 2 totally different ways
Sub frame connectors work in transferring loads front to rear, ( beaming)
Torque boxes work in stiffening twisting loads ( torsional)
You want maximum strength, use them both.

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daytonalo
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« Reply #14 on: November 02, 2006, 04:43:07 PM »

Auto -rust ,Ii would like to hear what you have to say about the US car tool sub conn ? I think they make using square a total waste of time.
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lilwendal
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« Reply #15 on: November 02, 2006, 05:19:28 PM »

Daytonalo,  I agree the US Car Tool product is the way to go. A more professional looking product when installed compaired to traditional Square tubing  connectors.  The fact that is welded to the floor the entire Length as well greatly increases overall structure rigidity.  drive a charger without these then hop in 1 with. What a difference.
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Daytona R/T SE
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« Reply #16 on: November 02, 2006, 05:38:05 PM »

I guess , with the us car tool I think the boxes wont add any stiffness , just my two cents .
                                                                                                   Larry

Actually,  sub frame connectors and torque boxes work in 2 totally different ways
Sub frame connectors work in transferring loads front to rear, ( beaming)
Torque boxes work in stiffening twisting loads ( torsional)
You want maximum strength, use them both.


Interesting! I'm putting the whole set in! Plus the reinforcing plates back by the leaf spring shackles! Should be a stiff one!

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daytonalo
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« Reply #17 on: November 02, 2006, 06:03:52 PM »

Damn right , great product , one of those items , (why didn't I think of that ) , just wanted hear someone in that buss opinion
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AutoRust
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« Reply #18 on: November 03, 2006, 08:27:57 AM »

I like the look of the US Car Tool connectors, I suspect they might be a bitch to install, unless its on a car that is sandblasted clean. There are an awful lot of nooks and crannies to fit up to. And if your floor pans have been replaced, the stamped ones are not correct like an original, so it could be a challenge. I presume the bulk of strength would come from having the steel welded completely to the pan, no gaps or stitch welding. Ever try to weld heavier steel to a thin floor pan? Its not difficult, but takes a skilled individual, no doubt.
As for the structural effect of them, I do not think they are as effective as using tubing. Its easy to think they are better by the fact they are welded to the floor pan. Look at what you have then, a 3 sided length of steel, with 2 bends (I think its 14 Gauge steel? ) and then welding it to a thinner piece of steel. That they are now welded to a section does not ad any substantial strength. your structural strength comes from the 2 lower bends. Now look at using a section of 2 x 2 tubing, regardless wall thickness. You have essentially 4 bends that are transferring loads. From an engineering point of view, they would be considered substantially less effective.
I do think they look cool though.
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« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2006, 08:54:34 AM »

A quote from Mopar Action article by E-Booger in Dec 2006, "Take the XV Challenge"

"And, Of course, the well known torque boxes are added, as well as a set of laser-cut frame rail connectors, which hug the floor pan. In actuality these probably don't work quite as well as the more common full rectangular tubing, but make for a much neater installation."

What the article does say though, if you want maximum strength, buy there lower radiator support, there is a ton of strength to be gained there.
It makes a lot of sense, the two front rails are always trying to twist in opposite directions, maybe its a small amount, but flex isn't good.
Its what the two front torque boxes do also, help minimize the twisting of the front rails.



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daytonalo
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« Reply #20 on: November 03, 2006, 09:45:59 AM »

I first installed square tube , front to back and then slid the US car tool right over the square tube . Go ahead let me hear I made it weaker . I also welded in square tube up and over the rear floor section . When I installed Square tube I just don't weld them onto the front and rear bracing , I plasma cut a hole slide the tube in as far as it will go and plug weld where possible .
                                                                                                       Larry
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AutoRust
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« Reply #21 on: November 03, 2006, 03:59:49 PM »

I first installed square tube , front to back and then slid the US car tool right over the square tube . Go ahead let me hear I made it weaker . I also welded in square tube up and over the rear floor section . When I installed Square tube I just don't weld them onto the front and rear bracing , I plasma cut a hole slide the tube in as far as it will go and plug weld where possible .
                                                                                                       Larry


I think you solved an awful lot of the concerns I had. I would think you have the best of both worlds.  Grin
What are the interior dimension on them? How do they tie in at the rear frame? What is the exact gauge on them? What do you mean " up and over the rear floor section"?

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daytonalo
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« Reply #22 on: November 03, 2006, 04:08:09 PM »

I slid the tube into the rear frame rails then I ran the tube in the cavity to the rear or the rear seat area then tied them into the tubes run front to back . To weld them together I had to make a access cut in the rear seat area .
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