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Author Topic: getting extremely frustrated!  (Read 1804 times)
1BAD68
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« on: March 23, 2007, 11:34:39 AM »

When I bought my car someone previously repainted it, they must have just scuffed and painted and unfortunately used some really aggresive sand paper on a DA, so I sanded down to the factory paint and mostly past that to factory primer. I couldnt see any more swirly scratches but sprayed high fill primer anyway and sanded again w/220 grit, then sprayed black primer and fixed little imperfections, then sprayed two more coats of black primer and wet sanded w/400 grit. Everything looked great so I tested an area on the fender by spraying gloss black and I see the little swirly scratches again.
How do you get rid of these?
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MichaelRW
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« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2007, 12:45:26 PM »

Hmmmmm? What you did should have worked unless the metal is deeply gouged. But if the metal was deeply gouged there would not be any factory paint left on the car. So I don't understand what is happening. I have seen some guys use grinders to remove old paint and they have ruined the surface of the metal. Finishing with 400 should be good for either single stage or BC/CC paint.
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1BAD68
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« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2007, 01:35:06 PM »

after my test paint dried, I wet sanded it with 1000 grit and then polished and now you cant see the little swirly's but I see scratches that look like fine hair (must be from the 1000 grit) will 2000 grit wet sand remove those? Or what grit for a final wet sand should I use before polish? I'm using gloss black so it really shows everything.
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MichaelRW
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« Reply #3 on: March 23, 2007, 03:14:38 PM »

Yes, the fine lines are from the 1000. I recommend using 1500, then 2000 and then polish since you're working with black. Also, make sure you are using a name brand sandpaper.
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jordyjim
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« Reply #4 on: March 25, 2007, 12:25:32 AM »

you know what i would do,i would da the whole car again with a 400,then i would give a good coat of 2 pack primer,then i would wet sand it with 1500,if you still have scratches,just paint the car give it 2 or 3 dry coats to build it up then a wet coat,let it dry completely wet sand with a 600 got to give it a key and repaint again,time consuming but it will work,i do this day in day out a ajob,remember you wont see the swirls untill the paint is dry,are you using base and clear or single stage?if its base apply the clear even if you are going to repaint it helps fill the scratches,,jim
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1BAD68
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« Reply #5 on: March 25, 2007, 10:26:57 AM »

ok I think I got the hang of it, after wet sanding 1500 then 2000 on the final paint all scratches are gone except for the 2000 grit lines, I dont have a power buffer but tried polish by hand again and it still has the fine little spider web thin lines sort of like a haze, will a power buffer and fine rubbing compound get rid of those?
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jordyjim
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« Reply #6 on: March 25, 2007, 02:24:34 PM »

possibly,use a g3 compound by farecla,it will take forever by hand,have you machine polished befor?
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Silver R/T
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« Reply #7 on: March 25, 2007, 02:57:50 PM »

you have to buff it with different compounds, agressive, medium and fine.
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DPL
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« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2007, 12:47:15 PM »

After the 2000 wet sanding (using higrade paper only of course), you will want to do a deep cut polish, minor cut polish and then a final wax.  On my car I did a 4 stage polish before wax.  It looks great but lots of work. 

I used Maguires.
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1BAD68
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« Reply #9 on: March 28, 2007, 12:57:33 PM »

how many coats of paint should be on the car for all that polishing, I am worrying about getting too far through the final coat
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65post
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« Reply #10 on: March 28, 2007, 07:28:28 PM »

how many coats of paint should be on the car for all that polishing, I am worrying about getting too far through the final coat
If you are using base - clear you should have at least 3 good coats of clear on it if you are going to rub it out.I always put 4 coats on if I am planning on rubbing it out.just to be on the safe side.
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