Re: Restoration of my B5 Blue 4Spd Charger 500... Blue Thunder debuts...Finally!

[The70RT]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,32617.msg360034.html#msg360034
  here is a picture , it's suppost to bond to the metal and become one , after five-six years it was peeling off i huge strips we had to peel it all up 
     if you look at the passenger side cockpit floor pan , that is were we had used  POR-15  rust product on the new floor pans installed 5 some years ago . By the time ed my new body man got the car it was all peeling up .  Not so impressed with Por-15 any one else had good or bad experiences ?
the rusty surface on the floor is where i had started to peel it up and then it started started surface rusting right away . 

I just hit a few places on mine. Mostly inside hidden places such as frame rails, rear cross member, behind the rear valance, etc. I used the eastwood rust encapulator. Probably the same stuff? I seen where some did the whole bottom but mine was pretty much rust free so I didn't have too.

[BigBlockSam]

hey
i've used eastwood rust encapulator . works well even years later and i used rust bullet. i like ita lot better then por 15 . less prep  and 6 yrs later , no peeling. Rene

[moparstuart]

hey
i've used eastwood rust encapulator . works well even years later and i used rust bullet. i like ita lot better then por 15 . less prep  and 6 yrs later , no peeling. Rene

i think rust bullet may be what they used to replace the por 15 stuff on my car, I know i spent a fortune on that por 15 stuff with no results
 

[FJMG]

that is were we had used POR-15 rust product on the new floor pans installed 5 some years ago

I thought POR-15 was not to be used (useless) on clean, bare metal or painted surfaces, only rust???

[moparstuart]

that is were we had used POR-15 rust product on the new floor pans installed 5 some years ago

I thought POR-15 was not to be used (useless) on clean, bare metal or painted surfaces, only rust???

maybe thats the way it is now but our instruction said it would bond to clean new metal to prevent it from rusting ? I purchased several different product from them for different surfaces and problem . Like i said i spent alot of money with them !!!!!

[BigBlockSam]

i was told that por 15 was good on new metal surfaces too  but I've read several people that have had problems . they say that the problem was that the metal wasn't prepped right . rust bullet needs no prep . I'm gonna do the floors and inside roof with it in my challenger . the floors on my rr still look great . I'll applie it with a brush there
  when i put the new trunk floor in my 68, i sprayed rust en capsalator from underneath . like a primer then put the paint on top. lets see how it holds up . Rene

[xs29j8Bullitt]

i was told that por 15 was good on new metal surfaces too  but I've read several people that have had problems . they say that the problem was that the metal wasn't prepped right .

That is what I though might be the problem... maybe floorboard patch panels need to be blasted or scuffed up noticeably for the stuff to adhere.  I expect prepping the new metal surface to give the material being applied a place to grab onto is a good idea with any of the products.

Stuart - What type of surface prep was done on the new floorboards?

Looks like I have another learning curve to start on... BTW, Good Discussion! 

Allen

[SFRT]

I had a few por issues....seems it needs somehing to grip too and it should be warmer than 50 degrees when applied, else it just peels right off.

[moparstuart]

i was told that por 15 was good on new metal surfaces too  but I've read several people that have had problems . they say that the problem was that the metal wasn't prepped right .

That is what I though might be the problem... maybe floorboard patch panels need to be blasted or scuffed up noticeably for the stuff to adhere.  I expect prepping the new metal surface to give the material being applied a place to grab onto is a good idea with any of the products.

Stuart - What type of surface prep was done on the new floorboards?

Looks like I have another learning curve to start on... BTW, Good Discussion! 

Allen

  not positive what the prep was , it was my former body shop who ripped me off .  But i know it was prepped and even where the new floors were welded in and ground down it did not stick . Or there words bond and become one with the metal !!! ?

[moparstuart]

I had a few por issues....seems it needs somehing to grip too and it should be warmer than 50 degrees when applied, else it just peels right off.

this guy only worked on my car in the summer so the cold would not be an issue .  100 plus degrees maybe .!!!!

[xs29j8Bullitt]

I started a thread about the subject over on Moparts... lets see what the gurus over there say.     

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=4127244&an=0&page=0#Post4127244

Allen

[69_500]

They have guru's over at Moparts?  We need to get some of those people over here. I get lost trying to find threads over there. They need to expand the locations of posting over there instead of just general discussion. Then threads get axed after a few weeks too.

I always find the word "guru" as something to laugh at. Heck I find it hard to call anyone a guru. I'd have a hard time calling Naismith a guru of basketball, and he invented it.

[xs29j8Bullitt]

Well, gurus or not, the Restoration Forum on Moparts gets a fair amount of traffic... so I thought I would give it a try!

Someone posted a link to Rust Bullet's testing results page:

http://rustbullet.com/IndTesting/NTS/NTS.htm

Allen

[NMike]

that rust bullet looks pretty good. i think i'm going to try it out myself.

i did my truck frame about 10 years ago in POR15. after a few years of daily driving, it was peeling and the rust bled trough the coating.

[hemigeno]

I think the success of POR-15 hinges on the surface preparation.  We sandblasted and followed (nearly) all of the POR-15 recommended prep procedures on the entire frame & suspension components on my 2-ton truck's restoration.  Later on, we were trying to clean off some parts that had been inadvertently painted the wrong color with that stuff.  The sandblaster was still sitting around so we fired that up thinking it would make quick work of the paint/finish.  Wrong.  The sand just bounced off of that stuff.  Wouldn't touch it, and a wire wheel took forever to get it back down to metal.

There has been hydraulic & brake fluid plus every other vehicle lubricant on my frame, axles and/or wheels and it hasn't phased that stuff a bit.

[terrible one]

I vote for Zero Rust. It's been good to me all the way!

[Daytona R/T SE]

I've used POR-15 on my car trailer, my car, and my friend's cars. The only way to get it off after it has cured is to GRIND IT OFF. 

Tough stuff.
Never a problem.
I wouldn't waste my time even trying anything else, even if "the other stuff" was free.

[The70RT]

Most bare metal comes with some kind of protective coating on it, usually an oily base of some kind. If you don't get it all removed you definitely will have problems.

[xs29j8Bullitt]

Looks like all the products have their pros & cons, but POR-15 is taking a beating on the Moparts thread...

I have decided to try Rust Bullet on the C500.  I plan to go to see the C500 later today and talk to Joe about the product.  With the continuing long 11-13 hour days at work this week, I haven't seen the car in the last week.

Allen

[xs29j8Bullitt]

I went by the paint shop this afternoon... MoProgress has been made!  The C500 is no longer a Flintstone car... Floorboards are in!

Until now, when progress was made the car looked worse because of it... now it is slowly starting to look MoBetter! 

Although not fully dressed up yet, the installation looks very good.  More heavy rust pitting and other small issues were found on the driver's side, so the decision was made install the full length of the repair panel on that side.  Doing so uses factory seams on 3 of the 4 sides, with the transmission tunnel side being the only seam needing to be concealed.  The smaller passenger side repair has to have the rear seam concealed in addition to the trans tunnel seam.  When fully dressed out the repairs will be invisible, not just covered by the carpet.

Some pictures taken today...

Allen

[xs29j8Bullitt]

Pictures from the underside of the car... note the clean trimming of the repair panel where the 4 spd shifter hump is installed...

Allen

[tan top]

 nice work  ......... starting to look good now ..........    

[xs29j8Bullitt]

    nice work ..................

Thanks... Joe does good work. 

The Classic Body Designs reproduction quarter panels have been unboxed and are being cleaned and prepared for primer and sound deadening application.  The heavy oily protective coating did its job well, but getting it all off is proving to be a pain.  Still, it is great the quarter panels come with the coating!!!

I am also getting a closer look now at the detail of the quarter panels... Everything looks GREAT!  Thanks to Ron Lushia of CBD! 

If they fit as well as they look, the quarter panels will be worth the investment...

Allen

[69_500]

Starting to look better.  The better it gets looking the less likely you are to get fed up with it and finally break down and sell it to me. 




Keep up the work Allen. I love seeing the progress photos'. Odds are mine will never make it to those stages, I don't know if I could go without driving it for long enough to do all that.

[xs29j8Bullitt]

Starting to look better.  The better it gets looking the less likely you are to get fed up with it and finally break down and sell it to me. 

 

First a few "action" shots from today... removing some of the quarter panel edges left when the quarters were cut off.  Also melting out the quarter panel to roof panel seam lead.

A little change in schedule... doing a few things before sending to the media blaster, but it should go there in the next week or two.  Some of these changes should make the media blaster's job a bit easier...

Allen