DodgeCharger.com Forum
October 17, 2021, 05:06:37 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: DodgeCharger.com decals are available here!
 
   Home   Help Calendar Login Register Chat  
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 16   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Pictures of my "easy to do" Charger from HLPAG  (Read 100733 times)
ramit
Senior Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 801



« Reply #50 on: October 05, 2005, 10:23:18 AM »

I need to stop checking out this thread because it keeps pissing me off!  Those guys make me fu***ng sick!
Logged
AirborneSilva
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,282



« Reply #51 on: October 06, 2005, 07:26:10 PM »

I just looked up the cost of the frame rails from TEXAS ACRES. If you save this car the used one like I used would be the best bet. Said $100.00 to $275.00 so figuer with it being a Charger $275.00 plus shipping so figuer a nother $100.00.

 Like I said when I did my Charger it took around 40 hours to install the frame rail's and new trunk floor. I reused my innner wheel well's, made patch's but in your case might want to add them to the list. Can you weld? Have a good air supply? Hardest part was cutting out all the spot welds from the doner parts.

 Not going to try to talk you into saving the Charger but after doing my self it not that tuff. Not like you have to be a brain surgon. It like doing a detail model car, parts are just a little bigger! Wink

 What do the front rail's look like and where the front bar's mount? My front rail's had some rust, but did not need to be replaced.

            Ken


Ken, yes I can weld and have a 110 hobart 125amp welder - I'm not the best of welders but I get the job done and had figured that I would have to do some welding on the car but not to the extent that I obviously have to.  Thanks for taking the time to check out the parts for me, I'm still not sure what is going to happen with the car, I may be stuck but only time will tell and of course the AG and BBB as well as e-bay. 

I have not looked at the front rails but the engine bay is in real good shape so if that is any indication then I'd say the front rails are not too bad.  I am in Calif. right now visiting friends and family so I can't look at it.  I am leaving things up to the wife right now, she is from NY and writes a mean business letter so she is drafting one up to send to HLPAG and is copying the AG and BBB.
Logged
AirborneSilva
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,282



« Reply #52 on: October 06, 2005, 07:29:02 PM »

They used the name vcode4406. ? The link to the auction is in the first post of this thread. ? http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,3584.0.html

Airborne, I'm in the Chicago area, and if you need anything delivered or filed in-person with the BBB or whoever, let me know and I'll do what I can to help out. ? I'd love to see those bums burn.

Thank you for the offer, it is very kind.  I will keep you in mind if things go that direction
Logged
bull
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 20,121


'68 383/2bbl/4spd 1 of 74


« Reply #53 on: October 07, 2005, 01:15:19 AM »

I don't know how practical this idea is but if things don't work out with you getting your money back from those crooks you might try spending some time getting the trunk area repaired and then reassess your interest in the project at that point. It's not like you're going to screw it up any worse than it is and it will give you some practice with your welder. Maybe cut out all the cancer, weld in the rails and start patching in the new metal and maybe it will take shape. At that point maybe you could sell it for $5k or $6k or keep on restoring if it's going well. I don't know. I'm just trying to give you some hope I guess. Undecided
Logged

AirborneSilva
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,282



« Reply #54 on: October 07, 2005, 07:55:25 AM »

I don't know how practical this idea is but if things don't work out with you getting your money back from those crooks you might try spending some time getting the trunk area repaired and then reassess your interest in the project at that point. It's not like you're going to screw it up any worse than it is and it will give you some practice with your welder. Maybe cut out all the cancer, weld in the rails and start patching in the new metal and maybe it will take shape. At that point maybe you could sell it for $5k or $6k or keep on restoring if it's going well. I don't know. I'm just trying to give you some hope I guess. Undecided

Thanks Bull, if a refund doesn't work out (and I don't have a lot of faith in the system), that is what I'm going to do.
Logged
BB1
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2,432


« Reply #55 on: October 07, 2005, 07:58:39 AM »

Yeah good point bull, just start having fun with it, that's what I'd do. Can't hurt it anymore.   yesnod
Don't forget to measure and find a friend with a Charger to reference off of.
Logged

Delete my profile
AirborneSilva
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,282



« Reply #56 on: October 07, 2005, 08:04:48 AM »

Yeah good point bull, just start having fun with it, that's what I'd do. Can't hurt it anymore.   yesnod
Don't forget to measure and find a friend with a Charger to reference off of.

Yeah, if/when I start to cut and weld on that thing I will certainly be asking for pictures and probably measurments so if/when that happens I hope you guys are patient with me  icon_smile_big
Logged
Old Moparz
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 9,118


Newburgh, NY


« Reply #57 on: October 07, 2005, 09:31:10 AM »

I hope things work out okay, it is quite possible. The legal system can be a PITA & sometimes a joke, but it does work if you're patient. I had a bad experience in a body shop about 18 years ago & got stiffed. I ended up paying for bad body work, paying for work that wasn't done at all, performing some carpentry services in the body shop building, & laying out the expense of the building materials. (We had worked out a partial trade in services.)

I documented everything possible, had a good lawyer who took the case on contingency, (meaning he doesn't get paid unless he collects the damages) & actually won in court. The A-Hole shop owner never appeared, & went out of business. I was awarded $13,000 through a civil suit, (3 times the actual damages) but never saw a penny because the guy disappeared & didn't own anything on paper.

It wasn't a small claims case, & my lawyer told me to make it a civil suit against both the shop, & the owner personally. He said so because the shop actually could not provide certain services I was promised, & it was the owner who mislead me. (Here's why having a lawyer is very important.) This was in New Jersey at the time, but it might be very similar elsewhere.

Good luck, Bob
Logged

         ______Bob          ______



                                             That's How I Roll!
cudaken
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3,366



« Reply #58 on: October 07, 2005, 05:09:06 PM »

 Tony, to bad you are so far away, I would do the rear rails for $800.00. Like I said, 40 hours worth of work. If I can make $20.00 a hour and pay no tax I am a happy man.

 If you take 40 hours X say $52.00 a hour that = $2080.00 Or if you got to a high end shop say $80.00 a hour X 40 = $3200. I would shot for say $2500 back and save her. You would be doing the Mopar world a favor, one more R/T not made into beer cans.

 By the way, have you checked the hidden vin's to make sure it is a real R/T? Dash pad's can be replaced. Well, infact they all can be changed with skill labor. Saw a solid 71 Charger 318 become a 71 Super Bee, not me I will add. But 110% sure the hack's you bought yours from would never go that far.

                                             Ken 
Logged

I am back
AirborneSilva
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,282



« Reply #59 on: October 08, 2005, 07:15:49 AM »

Ken, if I can atleast get some money back outta these guys I might have to see if we can work something out here.  If it is possible I would like to save her, but we will see what's going to happen. 

Where can I find the hidden vin#'s?  I did think of them changing the dash pad #'s but it looks like that unless they changed out the whole dash pad it doesn't look like that has been changed - but then again what do I know  icon_smile_big
Logged
694spdRT
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3,044



« Reply #60 on: October 08, 2005, 08:10:16 AM »

The numbers Cudaken referred to are located on the front radiator and rear trunk lip. They are stamped into the metal and should match the Vin# on your dash and title.

The first pic shows where to look on the radiator support. Mine is on the back side of the support but, they are also found on the top rail.

The second pic is where to find the trunk number. I didn't look to see on your car but, this is often hid by the weatherstripping


* radiatorsupport#.JPG (50.64 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1559 times.)

* Vin#location.JPG (65.87 KB, 640x480 - viewed 1519 times.)
Logged

1968 Charger 383 auto
1969 Charger R/T 440 4 speed
1970 Charger 500 440 auto
1972 Challenger 318
1976 W200 Club Cab 4x4 400 auto 
1978 Ramcharger 360 auto
2001 Durango SLT 4.7L (daily driver)
2005 Ram 2500 4x4 Big Horn Cummins Diesel 6 speed
2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 5.7 Hemi
Charger Aficionado
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,404


Charger Fanatic


WWW
« Reply #61 on: December 01, 2005, 08:03:54 PM »

Good luck sir, I hate to see that happen. I'd go after the false advertising about the trunk being "cut-out" that implies it was intentionally done to resore. Since it corroded out that is completely diffrent and fraudulent...you know I'm thinking of making up some HLPAG voodo dolls and selling them on e-bay, I bet I'd make a fortune!
  Good Idea!  You also may raise awareness Smiley
Logged

AirborneSilva
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,282



« Reply #62 on: December 01, 2005, 09:15:17 PM »

The numbers Cudaken referred to are located on the front radiator and rear trunk lip. They are stamped into the metal and should match the Vin# on your dash and title.

The first pic shows where to look on the radiator support. Mine is on the back side of the support but, they are also found on the top rail.

The second pic is where to find the trunk number. I didn't look to see on your car but, this is often hid by the weatherstripping

I checked the radiator support, the numbers match, but the one on the trunk lip is rusted gone  Sad so I am convinced this is a true R/T
Logged
cudaken
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3,366



« Reply #63 on: December 02, 2005, 06:20:44 AM »

 Well Tony at less it is a real Rusted / Trash. Grin Told you that what R/T stands for Grin


                    Ken
Logged

I am back
AirborneSilva
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,282



« Reply #64 on: December 02, 2005, 07:43:03 AM »

Well Tony at less it is a real Rusted / Trash. Grin Told you that what R/T stands for Grin


                              Ken

I'll never doubt you again Ken  icon_smile_big
Logged
chargervert
Old Timer
*****
Online Online

Posts: 1,216


« Reply #65 on: December 10, 2005, 10:51:10 AM »

Air borne,take my advise,I do all my own bodywork,welding,and painting. Cut your losses on that one! I am from New England,and have repaired more than my fair share of rotted Mopars.Thats way more of a project,than you want to get into. If you could do the job yourself,you may think about it,but to have to pay someone else,you would be better off to get a clean southern,or western body!I know Ken said he would help you out,but you are looking at about 250 hours of bodywork,to put a rear clip on that correctly! I know there are some really good guys here,but you cannot expect Ken to do 250 man hours of bodywork for free!I bought a 70 Charger body from Texas last year,it had some rust arond the rear window,and the trunk floor was cut out,and one from another car was ready to be welded in,but the rest of the car was flawless,as far as rust was concerned!I paid $3500.00 delivered to me in Rhode Island! I gave the car to a friend of mine who was going to restore one from New England,that looked just like the one you bought from that a$$hole!If you want to see that car that I bought from Texas,It was on the cover of the Mopar Collectors guide,September 2005.It is now the replica of the watermelon Daytona That Mike from Dayclona built! You are always better off to start with the best body you can find!I would'nt touch that car,just put it aside,and get a lawyer to get you yuor money back!Do you have anything from them describing the condition of the car,in there writing,or on there letterhead? If you do then thats your amo,go get em!
Logged
cudaken
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3,366



« Reply #66 on: December 10, 2005, 11:55:26 AM »

 Chargervert, if Tony can get the used parts cut like mine was it would take me about 40 hours to get the rails in. If I go out my goal will be to get it rolling with no wood beams holding up the ass end. Key will be if we can get a used 69 Charger subframe with the tail light panel still in places. If we can't, I can still work around it.

 Here is now I cut up my doner car rear frame.

                          Cuda Ken


* New_ass_12-10.JPG (105.51 KB, 493x370 - viewed 1367 times.)
Logged

I am back
chargervert
Old Timer
*****
Online Online

Posts: 1,216


« Reply #67 on: December 10, 2005, 03:38:19 PM »

Ken,Thanks to the good people like you in this hobby,it really helps make up for the scumbag ripoff artists like the A hole who sold him that rust bucket! Last winter I put frame rails,trunk floor,trunk extensions,wheel wells,and rear quarterpanels on my friends 68 Satelite convertible. It took about 250 hours to do the whole job.That Charger that he bought is in a lot worse shape than the Satelite was! The rest of the Satelite was rock solid,just the tail end was wasted. I'm not saying that you guys couldn't do the work,but what I'm saying is that I think he can get a better body for the money he put out,and it would be to his advantage to pursue legal action against that jackass,than to take the hit on that car,and spend a tremendous amount of time and labor on that rust bucket! If you guys seen the thread about the guy who bought that yellow R/T for $750.00,then you guys know there are far better bodies out there for the same money that Tony paid or less!
Logged
AirborneSilva
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,282



« Reply #68 on: December 10, 2005, 04:11:20 PM »

Chargervert, I do apreciate your input and I am pursuing legal matters with these nice individuals who sold me the car (through the Illinois AG), but, even if I lose I can not nor will I just give up on the car.  I have a bit over $6K into it (that includes the price of getting the car shipped to me), so just writing it off is not an option.  If you know of an R/T that I can get for $750 PLEASE tell me, I will buy it today!!  As for Ken helping me out, I hope and pray that when the time comes I can get him out here to help me out but can't do anything until after the AG's findings.  Also, Ken and I have discussed compensation and no I never have expected him to do anything for free but the compensation is between him and I (but he is giving me a hell of a deal on his labor).  Also, yeah if it werent for guys like him in this hobby/love of the Mopar then I'd really be screwed...
Logged
TruckDriver
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 10,148


From; Lomira, Wisconsin USA


WWW
« Reply #69 on: December 10, 2005, 04:17:35 PM »

I don't know if they have parts you can use, but if you look at what they show in the pics,   they have frame rails and front clips. Might be worth a try.

http://www.texasacres.com/parts/metal.html

Logged

PETE

My Dad taught me about TIME TRAVEL.
"If you don't straighten up, I'm going to knock you into the middle of next week!" Tongue
chargervert
Old Timer
*****
Online Online

Posts: 1,216


« Reply #70 on: December 10, 2005, 04:55:16 PM »

What I meant by write it off,was to get your money back,and get a better car! Tony, I have fixed some really rusty cars, over the years. But all B.S. aside, I cut up two 69 R/T SE Chargers,that werent as bad as that car that they sold you! One of them was a trpple black electric sunroof car! Where are you from,because I get calls all the time about cars for sale! If you want another body, I can get a hold of you if something decent comes up! Last year, I bought three Mopars,I bought a 68 Charger roller,for $100.00,I bought a 70 R/T Challenger,383,4 speed(turn kry car with a non matching,rebuilt 383,and an 18 spline Hemi trans) solid car for 5 grand,and it came with a truck load of extra parts,and another 68 Charger complete solid driver for 4 grand.There are still lots of good deals left out there!As far as Ken helping you out, the point I was trying to make,is that if you do all that work,even if Ken gives you a huge break,you will still have more into that car than it will be worth!If the AG cant do something for you than get a lawyer,and take him to court!Even if all you get out of him is a better car!
Logged
cudaken
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3,366



« Reply #71 on: December 10, 2005, 05:59:36 PM »

 Tony, have you been looking for parts, subframe with tail light panel like I posted. Contact the yard and see if you can get one. Better be looking, 69/70 (could use) are going fast.

                                        Ken
Logged

I am back
dkn1997
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3,372


Long Island, NY


« Reply #72 on: December 11, 2005, 09:32:05 PM »

hey tony, I know it does not make a difference, but i sent them an email telling them what scumbags they for jacking you like that.

Truly sad.  I don't know how ebay still lets them sell cars.  maybe nobody complains.  The usually F everyone, but not usually as bad as they got you.  They always lie about thier cars, but they are usually clever enough with the wording to kinda sorta leave themselves an out.  But I think you will get them this time.  bold face lies.

and unlike the previous guy who sued and got no money from the bodyshop, you will get money from them.  They certianly have it.  how could they not?  they drag cars in that they probably got for free and filp them for 5k each.
Logged

RECHRGED
Carlwalski
Junior Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 114



WWW
« Reply #73 on: December 12, 2005, 07:51:02 AM »



Man, that thing was a mess. I certainly couldn't tackle or have the know how to restore a car in that condition.  icon_smile_sad
Logged

sean68charger
Junior Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 121


Wales U.K. 68 Charger R/T


« Reply #74 on: December 12, 2005, 04:08:26 PM »

i nearly bought a charger from those loosers Angry, just imagine seeing the stunning photos they sent me over the net then waiting 3 months for it to arrive hear in britain and finding it in that condition, man i`d want to kill someone flame
i am so glad i went with the charger i got
Logged

68 Charger 440 R/T<br />Burnout Bandit!!!
Pages: 1 2 [3] 4 5 ... 16   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.071 seconds with 17 queries.