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Author Topic: Vent Window Assembly How-to: Time to Reassemble!  (Read 31236 times)
bill440rt
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« on: January 07, 2008, 08:07:32 AM »

OK, just got this stuff back from the chrome platers. Time to put it all together. For those members who have never done this before, it really is quite easy. All you need are some simple hand tools.

Shown here is everything for the vent windows, stripped down. The chrome plater separated the "V" shaped galvanized pieces from the pot metal frame, & chromed them both. The "V" piece is supposed to be plain galvanized steel, but is really not even seen once it is all together. He chromed it anyway. Oh, well.
There are "nubs" inside the pot metal frame that are peened over that attaches the "V" piece. There are extra ones used as locators. We'll use those as the new attaching posts. For added strength, I sanded/scuffed the mating surfaces & also used 3M's panel bond adhesive as I didn't want to rely on just the old posts alone. A thin chisel & small hammer is used to peen over the posts, in an "X" pattern.
WARNING! Be careful! You must properly support the pot metal piece while you are tapping with the hammer or else you will leave dimples on the other side! (Don't ask me how I know this, past experience over the years has taught me lessons).  brickwall  I like to use a flat metal body dolly with a rubber squeegee taped to it for support. Don't use wood, please. The rubber is just enough cushion not to mar the surface, & the metal is strong support. The second photo shows the nubs peened over.



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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bill440rt
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« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2008, 08:15:08 AM »

Next we'll assemble the vent window glass. The glass is attached to these pot metal channels with black gaskets. Luckily, I was able to save these gaskets, which become quite brittle over the years. This would be a great part to reproduce! I can only describe these gaskets as being made out of a thick tar paper-like material. And, there are right & lefts!!
I reinstalled the gaskets & used a few small dabs of windshield urethane for good measure. I applied some more small dabs along the bottom edge of the vent window glass. Using a soft rubber or plastic mallet, gently tap the glass back into the channel. The urethane acts as a lube to help slide the glass in better, & once dry it'll make a stronger bond.

The vent window handle slides over the post along with a wavy washer, & is held in place with a roll pin. Use a small hammer with a small punch to install the pin, & a use little dab of grease on the post as well.


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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bill440rt
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« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2008, 08:19:24 AM »

Next we'll assemble the vertical window run channels to the vent window frame. These channels get attached at the top with a special threaded screw, & riveted at the bottom. The rivets were drilled out for disassembly prior to chroming. I used 1/8" rivets with a backing washer to reattach them. You want the rivet head to be in the vent window channel, it must sit flush to clear the gasket.


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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bill440rt
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« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2008, 08:29:42 AM »

Finally, we'll install the vent window glass in the frame. First, install the gasket. This snaps right into place, & there are right & left sides. I was able to re-use an original set I had that was in very good condition. You can use some rubber or tire dressing as a lube to help reinstall these.

Then, slide the vent window glass down into the frame. A little more grease on this post is a good idea for easier operation. This post gets held in place on the bottom with another small roll pin that sticks out, which also aids as a stop. A small sheet metal screw is also used to adjust the tightness of the window.

Up top, the vent window has a small pivot. The original gaskets were fubar, so I made some using a small piece of rubber tubing & some rubber neoprene washers, all for about a buck. This is similar to the 1/4 glass window attachment as well. The second photo shows the original fubar'd gaskets with the new ones.

Then, we install the top rubber window stop. There are rights & lefts. I'm not sure if these are being reproduced either, but I had some good ones lying around. This is another much needed part.

Last one shows the finished product. A very simple job.
I'll be installing these hopefully in the not too distant future along with the door glass, when I do I'll try to snap a few pics on how these are installed.


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69 OUR/TEA
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« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2008, 08:39:31 AM »

Real nice job Bill !!!! cheers
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daytonalo
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« Reply #5 on: January 07, 2008, 08:49:43 AM »

What did it cost you for gaskits and to re-chrome parts ??


Larry
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bill440rt
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« Reply #6 on: January 07, 2008, 09:17:26 AM »

Gaskets: $2.00

Chrome work: $480.00 (this includes the frames, handles, channels, etc).

Chrome prices are variable depending on where you are, company used, etc. The detail lines on these are still crisp, many "bargain" platers do not retain these lines & grind them smooth. Bottom line is you get what you pay for with chrome work.
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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
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« Reply #7 on: January 07, 2008, 09:56:11 AM »

Wow, nice job Bill. 2thumbs
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Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto
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« Reply #8 on: January 07, 2008, 11:27:30 AM »

Great pics and description, as always.  cheers
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The70RT
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« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2008, 11:31:02 AM »

Bookmarked.........thanks Bill
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bill440rt
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« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2008, 05:46:09 PM »

You're VERY welcome!  thumbs
I always try to be as helpful as possible. Even if it helps only one person, I feel I've done my job.
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Brock Samson
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« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2008, 06:12:32 PM »



  Wait!    Shocked

 You'r gittin paid for this?!!!   flame




  TROY!!!!





 seriously,..  great post!  Thanks!
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daytonalo
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« Reply #12 on: January 07, 2008, 10:35:36 PM »

Thanks Cupcake !!!!!
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« Reply #13 on: January 08, 2008, 08:26:25 PM »

Great job and thanks for posting already added it for future reference.
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Lord Warlock
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« Reply #14 on: January 08, 2008, 09:11:03 PM »

 eek bookmarked for future reference, i'll have to rechrome my driver's side channel as well, not looking forward to taking it all apart, its gonna have to wait a bit yet. 
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« Reply #15 on: January 09, 2008, 07:31:37 PM »


They look great Bill!   2thumbs
 
I also had issues with my rechromed pieces.  I did mine a bit different but the end result is the same.
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8WHEELER
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« Reply #16 on: January 09, 2008, 11:34:59 PM »

Book marking this for sure. I also had issues with my rechromed pieces, and the bone
head I hired to do the hole job. I took him 4 complete sets, to make 3 mint sets out of.

Same old story, he said 3/wks and they will all be done   smilielol smilielol smilielol  well its
been a year and four months now, and the pieces are at there third chrome shop, and they
have been there for 8months now. Last Friday we went in and gave them one more week to
get them done, or we will be taking the parts to the fourth chrome shop   rotz rotz brickwall

Dan
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« Reply #17 on: January 10, 2008, 12:40:01 AM »

Thanks for posting the how to! At first I didnt think it would be useful to ME but now that I think of it, theres a chance I might have to take them apart and re-assemble them when the car goes to the body shop, depends on if the shop will mask it off of or what but like I said, thanks for the how-to! I'm taking notes on all this stuff like all the how-tos cheers
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1971 Charger R/T: B5 Blue 440 Automatic
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bill440rt
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« Reply #18 on: January 10, 2008, 09:25:13 AM »

Again, totally my pleasure!  cheers

Dan, I feel your pain with your re-chrome blues. Finding a competent shop is tough. While the shop I used did a great job on these vent windows, the job they did on my tail light bezels wasn't so hot. The bezels weren't that good to begin with, but they didn't really do anything to fix the defects. They're now perfect for an above average driver or local show car, but not for my '69, so I'm going to probably sell them & get a just set of repros.

Oh well. Stay tuned for more assembly progress.  icon_smile_big
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« Reply #19 on: January 10, 2008, 12:16:16 PM »

Great job there Bill. Now for the bad news- they do repop those rubber vent window gaskets, I haven't seen a set first had though. One question, my drivers side vent is loose- I've tried to tighten the srew but it wont so is that the only thing that will do it? John
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bill440rt
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« Reply #20 on: January 10, 2008, 02:22:49 PM »

Great job there Bill. Now for the bad news- they do repop those rubber vent window gaskets, I haven't seen a set first had though. One question, my drivers side vent is loose- I've tried to tighten the srew but it wont so is that the only thing that will do it? John


Hey John, thanks!
Yeah, I know those gaskets are being repro'd. But, I had about 4 sets of vent window assemblies here to pick & choose which ones I wanted to use for this car, & I managed to come up with a mint pair of gaskets to use. Guess I got lucky.  scratchchin

That Phillips screw on the bottom is really the only thing that will tighten these. As an idea, you could try placing a thin rubber tube over the post to give it a little more "bite." Windshield squirter hose would do the trick. Or even electrical tape, just to give that post a little more "girth." You may have spread the housing a little or remove the vent glass to do this.
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« Reply #21 on: January 10, 2008, 02:54:10 PM »

Me and my friend took one apart today, i wish i'd seen this first, it would have made the job a lot easier.
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« Reply #22 on: January 14, 2008, 08:51:26 AM »

I'm in the middle of reassembling mine. I wouldn't classify this as one of the easier projects  brickwall

What a pain in the derrier.

I had my stuff re-chromed and the pivot rods are now too large to fit the window pivots...In the process of discovering this I bent my pivot rod on the passenger assembly. Now I just need to straighten it out...pry off the pivot assembly and then grind down the rod so I can get the assembly on and rotating freely.  flame

And then do the drivers side.

Bill....I noticed your pivot rod was chromed as well....did you have the same trouble?

Also....if you order the pivot kit......take notice that the pivot assembly is NOT CORRECT for a B-Body, but the grommets and hardware is fine.
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bill440rt
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« Reply #23 on: January 14, 2008, 10:07:33 AM »

Don,
Both pivots, upper & lower, fit fine on mine. I could see how that snag could definitely cause this to be a major PiA!!!!  flame
Grease on the pivots did aid in assembly.

I also noticed the replacement pivot kits were not correct, although the bushing are. You only see the very outer edge of the washers when the glass & pivots are installed, so I couldn't justify the $40 cost instead for a set of $2 rubber washers at the hardware store & some small pieces of tubing.
 Twocents
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« Reply #24 on: January 14, 2008, 10:52:56 AM »

Don,
Both pivots, upper & lower, fit fine on mine. I could see how that snag could definitely cause this to be a major PiA!!!!  flame
Grease on the pivots did aid in assembly.

I also noticed the replacement pivot kits were not correct, although the bushing are. You only see the very outer edge of the washers when the glass & pivots are installed, so I couldn't justify the $40 cost instead for a set of $2 rubber washers at the hardware store & some small pieces of tubing.
 Twocents


Both upper and lower were chromed on mine too. The bottom fit fine....unlike Shakey who had the same problems but on the lower pivot....mine went in fine. The upper was the problem. Tonight I'll try to bend back the pivot (hopefully without snapping it  Shocked) and then pry off the pivot assembly without ruining the chrome......then grind off the chrome on the rod. Another exciting evening in the garage.  RantExplode
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