DodgeCharger.com Forum
November 28, 2022, 09:45:51 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: Please remember: this is the place to discuss Chargers - NOT the place to discuss politics. Political posts will be locked or deleted at the Moderator's discretion.
 
   Home   Help Calendar Login Register Chat  
Pages: 1 2 [All]   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Vent Window Assembly How-to: Time to Reassemble!  (Read 31237 times)
bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« on: January 07, 2008, 08:07:32 AM »

OK, just got this stuff back from the chrome platers. Time to put it all together. For those members who have never done this before, it really is quite easy. All you need are some simple hand tools.

Shown here is everything for the vent windows, stripped down. The chrome plater separated the "V" shaped galvanized pieces from the pot metal frame, & chromed them both. The "V" piece is supposed to be plain galvanized steel, but is really not even seen once it is all together. He chromed it anyway. Oh, well.
There are "nubs" inside the pot metal frame that are peened over that attaches the "V" piece. There are extra ones used as locators. We'll use those as the new attaching posts. For added strength, I sanded/scuffed the mating surfaces & also used 3M's panel bond adhesive as I didn't want to rely on just the old posts alone. A thin chisel & small hammer is used to peen over the posts, in an "X" pattern.
WARNING! Be careful! You must properly support the pot metal piece while you are tapping with the hammer or else you will leave dimples on the other side! (Don't ask me how I know this, past experience over the years has taught me lessons).  brickwall  I like to use a flat metal body dolly with a rubber squeegee taped to it for support. Don't use wood, please. The rubber is just enough cushion not to mar the surface, & the metal is strong support. The second photo shows the nubs peened over.



* 20080106_007_Small.jpg (37.7 KB, 640x480 - viewed 8630 times.)

* 20080106_008_Small.jpg (39.89 KB, 640x480 - viewed 7055 times.)
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2008, 08:15:08 AM »

Next we'll assemble the vent window glass. The glass is attached to these pot metal channels with black gaskets. Luckily, I was able to save these gaskets, which become quite brittle over the years. This would be a great part to reproduce! I can only describe these gaskets as being made out of a thick tar paper-like material. And, there are right & lefts!!
I reinstalled the gaskets & used a few small dabs of windshield urethane for good measure. I applied some more small dabs along the bottom edge of the vent window glass. Using a soft rubber or plastic mallet, gently tap the glass back into the channel. The urethane acts as a lube to help slide the glass in better, & once dry it'll make a stronger bond.

The vent window handle slides over the post along with a wavy washer, & is held in place with a roll pin. Use a small hammer with a small punch to install the pin, & a use little dab of grease on the post as well.


* 20080106_009_Small.jpg (36.2 KB, 640x480 - viewed 6929 times.)

* 20080106_010_Small.jpg (27.65 KB, 640x480 - viewed 6905 times.)
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2008, 08:19:24 AM »

Next we'll assemble the vertical window run channels to the vent window frame. These channels get attached at the top with a special threaded screw, & riveted at the bottom. The rivets were drilled out for disassembly prior to chroming. I used 1/8" rivets with a backing washer to reattach them. You want the rivet head to be in the vent window channel, it must sit flush to clear the gasket.


* 20080106_011_Small.jpg (44.12 KB, 640x480 - viewed 7141 times.)

* 20080106_001_Small.jpg (32.8 KB, 640x480 - viewed 6944 times.)

* 20080106_005_Small.jpg (28.29 KB, 640x480 - viewed 6837 times.)
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2008, 08:29:42 AM »

Finally, we'll install the vent window glass in the frame. First, install the gasket. This snaps right into place, & there are right & left sides. I was able to re-use an original set I had that was in very good condition. You can use some rubber or tire dressing as a lube to help reinstall these.

Then, slide the vent window glass down into the frame. A little more grease on this post is a good idea for easier operation. This post gets held in place on the bottom with another small roll pin that sticks out, which also aids as a stop. A small sheet metal screw is also used to adjust the tightness of the window.

Up top, the vent window has a small pivot. The original gaskets were fubar, so I made some using a small piece of rubber tubing & some rubber neoprene washers, all for about a buck. This is similar to the 1/4 glass window attachment as well. The second photo shows the original fubar'd gaskets with the new ones.

Then, we install the top rubber window stop. There are rights & lefts. I'm not sure if these are being reproduced either, but I had some good ones lying around. This is another much needed part.

Last one shows the finished product. A very simple job.
I'll be installing these hopefully in the not too distant future along with the door glass, when I do I'll try to snap a few pics on how these are installed.


* 20080106_003_Small.jpg (34.94 KB, 640x480 - viewed 6850 times.)

* 20080106_002_Small.jpg (21.39 KB, 640x480 - viewed 6772 times.)

* 20080106_004_Small.jpg (34.19 KB, 640x480 - viewed 6808 times.)

* 20080106_Small.jpg (35.07 KB, 640x480 - viewed 7402 times.)
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
69 OUR/TEA
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2,489



« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2008, 08:39:31 AM »

Real nice job Bill !!!! cheers
Logged
daytonalo
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4,350


32 SKATER


« Reply #5 on: January 07, 2008, 08:49:43 AM »

What did it cost you for gaskits and to re-chrome parts ??


Larry
Logged
bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #6 on: January 07, 2008, 09:17:26 AM »

Gaskets: $2.00

Chrome work: $480.00 (this includes the frames, handles, channels, etc).

Chrome prices are variable depending on where you are, company used, etc. The detail lines on these are still crisp, many "bargain" platers do not retain these lines & grind them smooth. Bottom line is you get what you pay for with chrome work.
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
resq302
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,656


Whats black and white and red all over.......


« Reply #7 on: January 07, 2008, 09:56:11 AM »

Wow, nice job Bill. 2thumbs
Logged

Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto
Back N Black
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 3,792



« Reply #8 on: January 07, 2008, 11:27:30 AM »

Great pics and description, as always.  cheers
Logged
The70RT
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 7,014


KANSAS MAFIA MEMBER


« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2008, 11:31:02 AM »

Bookmarked.........thanks Bill
Logged

<br /><br />Uploaded with ImageShack.us
bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2008, 05:46:09 PM »

You're VERY welcome!  thumbs
I always try to be as helpful as possible. Even if it helps only one person, I feel I've done my job.
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
Brock Samson
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 15,567


Scaring Ricers & Setting off Car Alarms since 1984


WWW
« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2008, 06:12:32 PM »



  Wait!    Shocked

 You'r gittin paid for this?!!!   flame




  TROY!!!!





 seriously,..  great post!  Thanks!
Logged

daytonalo
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 4,350


32 SKATER


« Reply #12 on: January 07, 2008, 10:35:36 PM »

Thanks Cupcake !!!!!
Logged
bear
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 289



« Reply #13 on: January 08, 2008, 08:26:25 PM »

Great job and thanks for posting already added it for future reference.
Logged
Lord Warlock
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2,036


Off to college w/o her, been together ever since!


WWW
« Reply #14 on: January 08, 2008, 09:11:03 PM »

 eek bookmarked for future reference, i'll have to rechrome my driver's side channel as well, not looking forward to taking it all apart, its gonna have to wait a bit yet. 
Logged

69 RT/SE Y3 cream yellow w/tan vinyl top and black r/t stripe. non matching 440/375, 3:23, Column shift auto w/buddy seat, tan interior, am/fm w/fr to back fade, Now wears 17" magnum 500 rims and Nitto tires. Fresh repaint, new interior, new wheels and tires.
Shakey
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,015


1969 Dodge Charger R/T SE - 440 AUTO


« Reply #15 on: January 09, 2008, 07:31:37 PM »


They look great Bill!   2thumbs
 
I also had issues with my rechromed pieces.  I did mine a bit different but the end result is the same.
Logged
8WHEELER
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2,378



« Reply #16 on: January 09, 2008, 11:34:59 PM »

Book marking this for sure. I also had issues with my rechromed pieces, and the bone
head I hired to do the hole job. I took him 4 complete sets, to make 3 mint sets out of.

Same old story, he said 3/wks and they will all be done   smilielol smilielol smilielol  well its
been a year and four months now, and the pieces are at there third chrome shop, and they
have been there for 8months now. Last Friday we went in and gave them one more week to
get them done, or we will be taking the parts to the fourth chrome shop   rotz rotz brickwall

Dan
Logged

74 Dart Sport 360, just for added fun.
69bronzeT5
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 13,042


Canada, eh?


WWW
« Reply #17 on: January 10, 2008, 12:40:01 AM »

Thanks for posting the how to! At first I didnt think it would be useful to ME but now that I think of it, theres a chance I might have to take them apart and re-assemble them when the car goes to the body shop, depends on if the shop will mask it off of or what but like I said, thanks for the how-to! I'm taking notes on all this stuff like all the how-tos cheers
Logged

Feature Editor for Mopar Connection Magazine
http://moparconnectionmagazine.com/



1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1971 Charger R/T: B5 Blue 440 Automatic
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #18 on: January 10, 2008, 09:25:13 AM »

Again, totally my pleasure!  cheers

Dan, I feel your pain with your re-chrome blues. Finding a competent shop is tough. While the shop I used did a great job on these vent windows, the job they did on my tail light bezels wasn't so hot. The bezels weren't that good to begin with, but they didn't really do anything to fix the defects. They're now perfect for an above average driver or local show car, but not for my '69, so I'm going to probably sell them & get a just set of repros.

Oh well. Stay tuned for more assembly progress.  icon_smile_big
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
moparjohn
Senior Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 676


Yeah,I drove it to Texas! TWICE!!


« Reply #19 on: January 10, 2008, 12:16:16 PM »

Great job there Bill. Now for the bad news- they do repop those rubber vent window gaskets, I haven't seen a set first had though. One question, my drivers side vent is loose- I've tried to tighten the srew but it wont so is that the only thing that will do it? John
Logged

Happiness is having a hole in your roof!
bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #20 on: January 10, 2008, 02:22:49 PM »

Great job there Bill. Now for the bad news- they do repop those rubber vent window gaskets, I haven't seen a set first had though. One question, my drivers side vent is loose- I've tried to tighten the srew but it wont so is that the only thing that will do it? John


Hey John, thanks!
Yeah, I know those gaskets are being repro'd. But, I had about 4 sets of vent window assemblies here to pick & choose which ones I wanted to use for this car, & I managed to come up with a mint pair of gaskets to use. Guess I got lucky.  scratchchin

That Phillips screw on the bottom is really the only thing that will tighten these. As an idea, you could try placing a thin rubber tube over the post to give it a little more "bite." Windshield squirter hose would do the trick. Or even electrical tape, just to give that post a little more "girth." You may have spread the housing a little or remove the vent glass to do this.
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
Paul 500
Full Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 315



« Reply #21 on: January 10, 2008, 02:54:10 PM »

Me and my friend took one apart today, i wish i'd seen this first, it would have made the job a lot easier.
Logged

68 Charger R/T
69 Charger 500
Dodge Don
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2,255


70 Charger R/T SE 440 Six Pack Toronto Canada


WWW
« Reply #22 on: January 14, 2008, 08:51:26 AM »

I'm in the middle of reassembling mine. I wouldn't classify this as one of the easier projects  brickwall

What a pain in the derrier.

I had my stuff re-chromed and the pivot rods are now too large to fit the window pivots...In the process of discovering this I bent my pivot rod on the passenger assembly. Now I just need to straighten it out...pry off the pivot assembly and then grind down the rod so I can get the assembly on and rotating freely.  flame

And then do the drivers side.

Bill....I noticed your pivot rod was chromed as well....did you have the same trouble?

Also....if you order the pivot kit......take notice that the pivot assembly is NOT CORRECT for a B-Body, but the grommets and hardware is fine.
Logged

bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #23 on: January 14, 2008, 10:07:33 AM »

Don,
Both pivots, upper & lower, fit fine on mine. I could see how that snag could definitely cause this to be a major PiA!!!!  flame
Grease on the pivots did aid in assembly.

I also noticed the replacement pivot kits were not correct, although the bushing are. You only see the very outer edge of the washers when the glass & pivots are installed, so I couldn't justify the $40 cost instead for a set of $2 rubber washers at the hardware store & some small pieces of tubing.
 Twocents
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
Dodge Don
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2,255


70 Charger R/T SE 440 Six Pack Toronto Canada


WWW
« Reply #24 on: January 14, 2008, 10:52:56 AM »

Don,
Both pivots, upper & lower, fit fine on mine. I could see how that snag could definitely cause this to be a major PiA!!!!  flame
Grease on the pivots did aid in assembly.

I also noticed the replacement pivot kits were not correct, although the bushing are. You only see the very outer edge of the washers when the glass & pivots are installed, so I couldn't justify the $40 cost instead for a set of $2 rubber washers at the hardware store & some small pieces of tubing.
 Twocents


Both upper and lower were chromed on mine too. The bottom fit fine....unlike Shakey who had the same problems but on the lower pivot....mine went in fine. The upper was the problem. Tonight I'll try to bend back the pivot (hopefully without snapping it  Shocked) and then pry off the pivot assembly without ruining the chrome......then grind off the chrome on the rod. Another exciting evening in the garage.  RantExplode
Logged

bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #25 on: January 14, 2008, 11:07:03 AM »

Good Luck, Don!!!!   2thumbs
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
Shakey
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,015


1969 Dodge Charger R/T SE - 440 AUTO


« Reply #26 on: January 14, 2008, 11:30:41 AM »

When I had mine done, the upper pivot had a bit of chrome on it which I had to gently grind down with a file and then clean up with an emery cloth.  I also had to clean the inside of the pivot with a thin rat tail file and some emery cloth.  The same was the case with the pivot for the handle, file and clean it up as well as clean the inside of the handle.

The lower pivot, the one on the bottom of the frame the glass sits in had no chrome on it where it should.  I will have to build that up with a thin piece of aluminium wrapped tightly around the lower pivot to avoid any rattling or vibration.  Sure I will tighten the screw, but I'll need to build it up so I can tighten it properly.

As far as assembling the vent frame itself, I chose to use a screw at the bottom to ensure everything is snug.  Like everyone else, I had six points on my frame where four were peened over at the factory and two were left unused.  I utilized the two unused ones and put a screw down at the bottom.  I clamped everything down, drilled a hole through the frame and into the chrome and tapped it.  I then used a nut between the frame and the chrome to ensure it would stay tight.  It worked out really good.





* DDDDSC00111.JPG (131.05 KB, 640x480 - viewed 4129 times.)
Logged
Big Sugar
Senior Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 717


Where did the Time Go ...


« Reply #27 on: January 14, 2008, 09:57:25 PM »

Bill ....Great Work ! I'll be at that stage this spring with my 66 Charger,

Can you give us a Detailed installation of the vent window assembly into the door with door glass.
That would be a big help !




Ron


Logged




[img]<table border="0" cellpadding="0" style="border-collapse: collapse" width="182" id="table1" height="202" bordercolorlight="#ECEBF1" bordercolordark="#E9DFD1" b
BigBlockSam
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8,036



« Reply #28 on: January 23, 2008, 01:30:45 PM »

great thread , i did that to my 68 . i wasn't able to re use the bottom vent window gaskits . nobody reproduces them . so i assembled it without them until i can figure something out .   any ideas? thanks Rene
Logged

I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img
six-tee-nine
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1,804


'69 R/T white - red stripe


« Reply #29 on: January 23, 2008, 02:15:48 PM »

For those who (like me) bookmark this. I'd be very happy to add this :

http://www.69hemi.com/outsidetrim.html

Maybe some extra pictures and stuff to this subject.
Many thanks Bill we all learn here  2thumbs
Logged

Greetings from Belgium, the beer country

NOS is nice, turbo's are neat, but when it comes to Mopars, there's no need to cheat...

Dodge Don
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2,255


70 Charger R/T SE 440 Six Pack Toronto Canada


WWW
« Reply #30 on: January 23, 2008, 04:24:03 PM »

great thread , i did that to my 68 . i wasn't able to re use the bottom vent window gaskits . nobody reproduces them . so i assembled it without them until i can figure something out .   any ideas? thanks Rene

Use glass tape. Works like a charm. Got mine from restoration specialties.

http://1970chargerregistry.com/70messageboard/viewtopic.php?t=1551&highlight=vent
Logged

BigBlockSam
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8,036



« Reply #31 on: January 23, 2008, 04:39:44 PM »

thank you sir. that looks like it will work perfectly . Rene
Logged

I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img
MRCHARGER
Junior Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 62



« Reply #32 on: August 14, 2011, 08:36:57 PM »

For anyone searching this topic here is an update. There are 2 places where glass comes into contact with metal. The bottom of the vent glass and the door glass edge to the stainless trim that meets the 1/4 glass. I have yet to find these reproduced but have since learned that it is called "glass setting tape". You can get it a your local glass shop. Fold it over the edge of the glass, put the glass into the channel (with some force), then trim off excess tape with a sharp utility blade.

If you are restoring a 2nd gen Charger you will find that bill440rt has the best how-to theads on this site. He is also very helpful with questions.
Logged
bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #33 on: August 15, 2011, 06:54:21 AM »

Hey, thanks!  cheers
I just try to help whenever I can.

Glass setting tape will work well, or butyl tape stretched out. Liquid urethane will also work, but it's more permanent.
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bad88t-top
Junior Member
**
Offline Offline

Posts: 172



« Reply #34 on: December 28, 2011, 05:59:58 PM »

Hey guys,
Unlike Bill440RT, I don't have a pair of lower vent window gaskets to use so I attempted to set the glass in the chrome channel this afternoon using windshield urethane and what a mistake that was.  By the time I was done I had more on the chrome and my hands then where it needed to be.   After 3 hours I got everything cleand up again for round 2.   Tomorrow I'm going to look around for "glass setting tape" as mr Charger mentioned above.   Without the gaskets the fitment of the glass is very loose so I'm going to need something to build up the sides.   I'll keep you posted.  If anyone else has any idea's let me know.    What a pita.

Thanks
Logged

TX9 70 Charger RT: 6 pack, 4 speed, A33 Saddle interior, red stripe
EB7 70 Charger RT SE: PS, PB, PW, PSunroof, Defogger, Air, loaded
FC7 70 Charger RT: 440 4 speed, Dana, white longitudinal, black vinyl
EB5 70 Charger RT: 440 4 speed, Dana, B5 interior, white long stripe
EB5 70 Charger RT SE: V code 4speed A34, charcoal interior, loaded
F8 69 Charger: Power Sunroof Car
13 Duramax 2500HD: Tow Rig
17 Durango RT
BigBlockSam
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8,036



« Reply #35 on: December 28, 2011, 06:32:52 PM »

the tape should tighten up the fit . 1/8 inch tape wrapped around the bottom of both sides of glass . should be just about right . cheers


 Cheesy i still haven't done mine
Logged

I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img
bill440rt
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6,775



« Reply #36 on: December 28, 2011, 08:41:19 PM »

Hey Bill,
Yeah, that liquid windshield urethane is some ultra-messy stuff. Try using butyl glass setting tape, same stuff that the back glass is put in with. It comes in a roll, 3M is one company that makes it.
It's black & very sticky. You can stretch it out, roll it into shape, etc.
Break off a piece, & roll it into a thin string about 3/16" thick. Go 1/4" if you need to. Stick it to the bottom of the vent glass, let a little go up the bottom edge of the glass on the sides too. Tap it into place on the lower pivot using a rubber mallet. The butyl will ooze up the sides. Once it's bottomed out you can cut whatever excess off with a razor blade.
It's sticky, & once the vent window is assembled the glass won't go anywhere.

Good luck, & post pics!  2thumbs
Logged

"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
BigBlockSam
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 8,036



« Reply #37 on: December 29, 2011, 12:08:21 AM »

Quote
Try using butyl glass setting tape


 cheers good idea  scratchchin that stuff is great  and i happen to have a roll in the shed . thanks bill  cheers
Logged

I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

  [IMG]http://i45.tinypic.com/347b5v5.jpg[/img
rickcharger500qc
New Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1



« Reply #38 on: April 27, 2012, 06:44:01 PM »

Great info in this thread, I bookmark it.

Does someone have pics or instruction on How to disassemble the vent window?

I need to change the rail under the vent glass with the lock handle (my lock handle is missing red circle on the pics).

I need info from removing the door pad to get the vent glass out of the frame. I also want to know what will possibly broke during the process. This is my first project on the car since I bought it last summer.

Thanks in advance.

Rick


* 063_low.jpg (116.22 KB, 800x600 - viewed 3567 times.)
Logged
DC_1
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2,028



« Reply #39 on: April 27, 2012, 07:02:52 PM »

Great info in this thread, I bookmark it.

Does someone have pics or instruction on How to disassemble the vent window?

I need to change the rail under the vent glass with the lock handle (my lock handle is missing red circle on the pics).

I need info from removing the door pad to get the vent glass out of the frame. I also want to know what will possibly broke during the process. This is my first project on the car since I bought it last summer.

Thanks in advance.

Rick

Taking it apart is pretty straight forward. Use the search function and there are plenty of threads talking about how to remove the window frame. Shakey did a good thread on assembly http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,28517.25.html
Logged

bull
Old Timer
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 20,128


'68 383/2bbl/4spd 1 of 74


« Reply #40 on: February 22, 2014, 11:48:29 PM »

This thread is an oldie but a goodie and I want to add one suggestion into the mix regarding glass setting tape. I used heat shrink tubing cut lengthways and it worked quite well. I cut the tubing down its length, slid it onto the bottom of the glass and then heated/shaped it to conform. I then warmed it up again to install it and once in place I trimmed the extra with a box knife. It's a tight fit for sure but it turned out good.
Logged

68pplcharger
Senior Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 818



« Reply #41 on: August 12, 2014, 02:10:25 PM »

.
Logged
Pages: 1 2 [All]   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.11 | SMF © 2006-2009, Simple Machines LLC Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.09 seconds with 17 queries.