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Tips & tricks to restore fasteners to Black Oxide Phosphate

Started by C O D Y, August 13, 2016, 04:45:41 PM

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C O D Y

Although I appreciate and dream about B bodies, I'm a hardcore E-body guy.  But wanted to share a video I made about restoring original bolts and fasteners that might help my fellow Mopar brothers.  

https://youtu.be/7vTn6l5h67A

Always appreciate the positive feedback and thumbs up!  Thanks for letting me share my love and passion for Mopars!
Cuda Cody (your friendly E-Bodies.org brother)

Lennard


charger chris

i am a fair person and up frount person and try to help if i can. i love my mopars thats. all i ever owned first car was my 69 charger at the age of 15.

1969 charger Daytona clone
1969 charger sadly stolen
1970 charger rt
1972 road runner clone


Chargerguy74

WANTED: NOS or excellent condition 72-74 4 speed shifter boot for bench or centre armrest car, part number 3467755. It's a rubber boot that looks like it's sewn up leather.

WANTED: My original 440 blocks. Serial # 2A188182 and 3A100002

1970Moparmann

Very cool!   Thanks for sharing.  :cheers: 

Where did you buy the black Oxide?
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

C O D Y

Cuda Cody (your friendly E-Bodies.org brother)

sdweatherman

Excellent job Cody. I used the Eastwood kit to do up some of my hardware - but it comes with a lot of fluff and hence costs a little more. Carefully cleaning your hardware, using the  Caswell solution, then using WD or oil to seal will save a lot of cash in the long run. I will be sharing this video over on the Road Runner Nest.
Scott.
1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus GY8/318/Auto
1971 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus GB7/318/Auto factory Sunroof
1972 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus EV2/400/Auto factory Sunroof

Just 6T9 CHGR

Nice DIY video.  Easy to follow & produced a great result!
Chris' '69 Charger R/T


DixieRestoParts

Dixie Restoration Parts
Ball Ground, Georgia
Phone: (770) 975-9898
Phone Hours: M-F 10am-6pm EST
mail@dixierestorationparts.com
Veteran owned small business

The Best Parts at a Fair Price

bill440rt

Excellent how-to video!
I've used the Eastwood blackening solution before as well, looks to be a similar product? Worked great, easy to do at home too. It can be used on many parts, not just nuts and bolts. A lesser soak can duplicate heat treating on cast suspension parts, steering arms, etc.
WD-40 is a great sealer, I've also used a matte clear with excellent results also. They've retained their finish for many years.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

1970Moparmann

Since this is such a great thread....  :cheers:

What about doing something something similar with silver and natural colors?    :popcrn:
My name is Mike and I'm a Moparholic!

PlainfieldCharger

I have been painting bolts for years.  :2thumbs: This is faster, more durable, and just so easy!! Thanks for posting!!

tan top

Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
  http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.0.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

mopar4don

How would this work for bolts that would need to be painted? I assume not well, as they will have traces of oil.

Weren't all the fender bolts painted from the factory?

Will this process eliminate rust?

C O D Y

Yes, you would not want to do this to any bolt that you plan to paint.  The best way to paint a bolt is the same way you paint a car. 

This method is a fast affordable way to get a factory correct looking bolt without having to send it out to be professionally phosphated.  It will hold up okay to rust, but even the factory bolts rusted over time.  If you really like the look and do not want to use oil, you can clear coat them with a satin clear in place of the oil.

Quote from: mopar4don on August 24, 2017, 02:39:53 PM
How would this work for bolts that would need to be painted? I assume not well, as they will have traces of oil.

Weren't all the fender bolts painted from the factory?

Will this process eliminate rust?
Cuda Cody (your friendly E-Bodies.org brother)


C500

Video and outcome looks great. I've just been trying to get my hands on some black oxide, but been told by a supplier that this is not a good option for bolts under tension, and that they would suffer from "hydrogen embrittlement"  :'( Anyone with educated opinions on this?  :popcrn:
"An aggressive exterior with power to match was enough to pull in the performance boys-especially when abetted by a pair of pipes blaring out the back, and brawny red-sidewall rubber hitting the pavement."  

"........the four speed box changes cogs with the precision of a sharp axe striking soft pine."

5wndwcpe

I'm usually more concerned about smaller parts with embrittlement than bolts, but I'll pop them in the oven (when the  wifes out, natch).

Post-plating baking: Baking the part immediately after plating can reverse the effects of hydrogen embrittlement in most cases. General guidelines call for baking the part for four hours at a temperature of 375º F within one hour of plating. Most steels typically require a lower temperature in the range of 200-300º F.

MaximRecoil

The title of that video is odd, since black oxide and phosphate are two different types of finishes. Black oxide is also known as "bluing;" it's the same finish that's traditionally used for firearms. Phosphate is also known as "Parkerizing;" which is commonly used on military firearms, starting around WWII.

If you just want black oxide it's easy to do at home and you probably don't have to buy anything; it's especially easy if the bolt you started with originally had a black oxide finish (rather than Parkerized) and just has some light surface rust (red oxide). In that case, you just boil the bolt in ordinary water. The heat converts the red oxide to black oxide. This is the original/traditional method of bluing; it's known as "rust bluing;" people have been doing it for hundreds of years. If starting with bare steel you would rapidly induce rust with some solution (e.g., hydrogen peroxide and salt), then you would boil the steel part, then you could card off the excess oxide with, e.g., steel wool, and repeat the process until it's as black as you want it. There's an article about the process here:

http://mypeculiarnature.blogspot.com/2014/08/quick-rust-bluing-back-in-black.html