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Author Topic: Operation HOOK...the frame ties are in!!! (w/pics)  (Read 33531 times)
Hemidoug
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« Reply #25 on: September 17, 2009, 02:50:50 PM »

Wow...I didn't know this got stickyed....

Here is some follow on with the caltracs....some good info........I'm heading up to Island this weekend...hopefully get my 11 sec time slip.....I'll post back here with the results.. Cheesy

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,61485.0.html

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71 440 6pak, 4spd & 69 Hemi, 4spd
green69rt
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« Reply #26 on: September 28, 2009, 01:33:33 PM »

I'm getting ready to install a set on my 69 and I notice that the fuel line and the brake line holes in the torsion bar bracket end up being covered by the connectors.  How are you guys handling that?  Doing it that way and then reinstalling the lines seem difficult, need several splices.   I've thougt about drilling new holes for the lines to get them from under the connectors.
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elacruze
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« Reply #27 on: September 29, 2009, 08:00:56 PM »

I'm getting ready to install a set on my 69 and I notice that the fuel line and the brake line holes in the torsion bar bracket end up being covered by the connectors.  How are you guys handling that?  Doing it that way and then reinstalling the lines seem difficult, need several splices.   I've thougt about drilling new holes for the lines to get them from under the connectors.

I will most likely drill holes in the connector and pass the lines through the side and through the original holes in the crossmember. It may require an additional connector or two but it will avoid having them exposed to the road passing underneath. With properly grommeted holes and clamped to the connectors they'll be very secure.
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1968 505" EFI 4-speed
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green69rt
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« Reply #28 on: September 29, 2009, 08:03:05 PM »

I'm getting ready to install a set on my 69 and I notice that the fuel line and the brake line holes in the torsion bar bracket end up being covered by the connectors.  How are you guys handling that?  Doing it that way and then reinstalling the lines seem difficult, need several splices.   I've thougt about drilling new holes for the lines to get them from under the connectors.

I will most likely drill holes in the connector and pass the lines through the side and through the original holes in the crossmember. It may require an additional connector or two but it will avoid having them exposed to the road passing underneath. With properly grommeted holes and clamped to the connectors they'll be very secure.


Please post pictures when you get it done.  I'm very interested!!!!
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Patronus
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« Reply #29 on: March 01, 2010, 02:21:44 PM »

Please post pictures when you get it done.  I'm very interested!!!!
 iagree
Would you guys say the US tool connectors fit better than the XV?
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RIDELIKEHELL
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« Reply #30 on: April 02, 2010, 07:29:40 AM »

Looks stellar Doug...understand why you went the route you did so you could take em out. Btw I love that car !
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oooobarracuda
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« Reply #31 on: May 25, 2010, 01:07:04 AM »

solid looking job!!!!!!
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71rm23
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« Reply #32 on: November 09, 2010, 02:27:12 PM »

WOW! GREAT JOB.  I think it would be hard to weld between where the tie and the torsion bar mounts to.
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Magnumcharger
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« Reply #33 on: October 27, 2011, 08:33:09 AM »

I did something very similar with my Charger.

What I did differently was to open up the rear frame rails at the front, and insert the tubing into the frame rail a few inches, and did a lap weld on the sides of the rail, rather than a butt-weld which would have shear loading. I then did a plug-weld through a drain hole (pictured).

On the front of the connector, I inset it into the cross-member in a similar manner, and since my floorpan was out, I welded the tubing inside of the cross-member as well.

Overkill? maybe! icon_smile_big


* my subframe connectors.jpg (80.5 KB, 819x614 - viewed 2830 times.)

* my subframe connectors (1).jpg (91.09 KB, 819x614 - viewed 3823 times.)

* my subframe connectors (2).JPG (107.74 KB, 1028x579 - viewed 2688 times.)

* my subframe connectors (3).JPG (155.47 KB, 1211x685 - viewed 4001 times.)
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1956 Plymouth Savoy 227 V8 Powerflite
1967 Plymouth Fury III convertible 383 auto
1968 Dodge Charger R/T 426 4 speed
1968 Plymouth Barracuda S/S clone 426 Hemi auto
1969 Fargo Custom 100 shortbox 383 auto
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1971 Dodge Charger R/T 440 auto
1972 Dodge C600 318 4 speed
1979 Chrysler 300 T-top 360 auto
2001 Dodge RAM Sport Offroad 360 auto
2010 Dodge Challenger R/T 6 speed
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miller time
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« Reply #34 on: November 08, 2011, 07:47:48 PM »

Hemidoug, i didnt see anyone ask, how much did he charge for the frame ties alone? i might want a set exactly like yours from your guy they look amazing!
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1969 Charger r/t se 440 727 3.55 posi buckets consule shift, 1995 wranger on 36s and 10inches of lift built from ground up in the driveway 4.2 carb 5speed 4.11s very naughty
BOSSHEMI
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« Reply #35 on: November 29, 2011, 06:44:24 PM »

Doug, very nice job done there

is that a 4spd with and overdrive unit on your car?

Stephen
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kamkuda
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« Reply #36 on: May 13, 2012, 09:49:27 PM »

Nice job on the loop and connectors
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cjw916
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« Reply #37 on: September 11, 2013, 06:09:04 AM »

Hey guys. You all can answer this question for me.

I was considering the Hotchkis subframe connectors. I understand these US & XV connectors are boss for track use. But, would the Hotchkis connectors suffice for a street only car? If they're garbage I'll go with 'The Full Monty'.

Also, I was looking at welding in the front bracket on the Hotchkis, but then bolting through the hole through the connector, in the front, so that they'd remain removable. Would this completely negate any stiffness added? Are they a must weld-in in the front to see any benefit?

Thanks, Christopher
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Ghoste
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« Reply #38 on: September 11, 2013, 08:40:09 AM »

Personally I would only go with the welded ones. Twocents
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JB400
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« Reply #39 on: September 11, 2013, 10:00:13 AM »

I would have to agree with Ghoste if you want the full benefit of the connectors.
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cjw916
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« Reply #40 on: September 11, 2013, 11:32:32 AM »

OK, I admit that I was doubting the front bolts would suffice. . .

Do any of you think the Hotchkis would suffice for a street car? They bolt to the four bolts of the rear spring in the back, then they weld to a bracket that welds to the front cross support.

Are they worth the effort of the install?

Or are the fully boxed tall frame rails the only ones worth installing?

Thanks,

Christopher


* IMG_1571.JPG (61.49 KB, 1024x576 - viewed 2116 times.)

* IMG_1572.JPG (50.31 KB, 1024x576 - viewed 2140 times.)

* IMG_1573.JPG (42.06 KB, 1024x576 - viewed 2184 times.)

* IMG_1575.JPG (60.21 KB, 1024x576 - viewed 2152 times.)
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JB400
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« Reply #41 on: September 11, 2013, 11:38:33 AM »

I say the Hotchkis would be sufficient, but I would permanently weld them in.  Just use the bolt holes of the spring hanger to hold them up while you weld them.
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cjw916
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« Reply #42 on: September 11, 2013, 01:44:43 PM »

That's a good point about welding them in the back, too!

Now you've got me thinking that making side plates, on one, or both sides, and boxing them up to the pans as much as possible would severly increase their effectiveness. Heck, even just a couple plates along the gap would dramatically increase the rigidity they offer. ? . ?
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72Charger72
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« Reply #43 on: April 28, 2014, 05:58:09 PM »

Dang I am so far from there...hahaha looks awesome!
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alfaitalia
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« Reply #44 on: December 15, 2016, 10:14:38 AM »

Hemidoug . Hi....any idea how much weight your ties have added to the car.....just curious about doing something similar.
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BIGBLCK11
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. . . . .


« Reply #45 on: December 15, 2016, 10:26:37 AM »

Hemidoug . Hi....any idea how much weight your ties have added to the car.....just curious about doing something similar.

Hi, You might want to try a pm, maybe he'll see the email notification.  He hasn't been active since 2010.   He sold it, but the current owner is a member here.  Have not seen many posts on it though.  Great car!!
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alfaitalia
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« Reply #46 on: December 15, 2016, 10:52:41 AM »

Serves me right for not looking at the posting dates! icon_smile_big
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Kern Dog
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« Reply #47 on: February 10, 2017, 07:06:50 PM »

The weight of the metal that I used couldn't have been much more than 20lbs. I used .120 wall 3x3 for mine. I've seen .090 wall used and that is probably plenty enough.


* 1G.JPG (137.06 KB, 775x1037 - viewed 486 times.)
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HPP
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« Reply #48 on: February 11, 2017, 10:06:06 AM »

...and the stock frame structure is built with .060, so you could go lighter, just tie things in and fully weld.
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Petebell68
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« Reply #49 on: March 18, 2017, 10:17:37 AM »

Those look really good my car is also silver . Just  curious if I may ask what was the cost because that looks great completely painted and clean .
What do you mean by it feels like a different car ?

Thanks Pete
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