Help! How are my 'Birds vacuum headlights SUPPOSED to work?

[70Sbird]

OK,
I'll start at the beginning and maybe someone can tell me where I'm going wrong.
I know some of you have to have sorted this issue out before!
     
Ever since I hung the nose back on my bird in 2002 I have never had headlights that operated like they should. I put everything back in place including the knuckle skinning springs and all was well while driving, but as soon as the car was shut off, the headlights would open fully within 10 minutes. I took the springs out to eliminate that issue, but then the headlight buckets would never open fully on their own, I thought due to the poor leaky condition of the actuators. I put this project on my to-do list for this winter and purchased a new set of actuators last week.
I tried to bench test them and even connected both to the vacuum system on the car with the car running. I could not get vacuum to build or the actuator rod to extend with 15 to 17 in of vacuum applied to the front (rod end, or opening end) of the actuator. If I apply vacuum to the back (closing end) It pulls the rod in tightly and holds the vacuum both with a vacuum gun and engine vacuum.

Is this the correct operation of the actuators? my old ones extend with vacuum applied to the front (well one of them does anyway). I asked a similar question a few months ago, and a few of you said that your cars were running without that springs installed. I suppose if I put the springs back in, and had them "open" the headlights, then the vacuum actuator would only be responsible to keep them closed, but then I would be right back where I was in 2002, just more frustrated and out the cost of the actuators.

Shouldn't the rods extend when vacuum is applied to the front and retract when the vacuum is applied to the rear?

Also before you ask, I have a vacuum gauge reading at the core support connections of full engine vacuum at the rear actuator connection when the headlight switch is off and full vacuum to the front of the actuators with the headlight switch on. With this tidbit of information, I have to believe that everything is working correctly from the engine, through the can, through the switch to the actuators.
What am I missing? and are these new actuators acting like they should?

[nascarxx29]

I removed the headlight springs before.Didnt like the creeping up headlights .But the lights still worked.The springs are only a fail safe..But if they are wound to tight that might limit opening.Dont know exactly what causing your troubles .But starting at the source the headlight switch had the white plastic vacuum switch.That leaks internally from age.From there check your vacuum lines and the connections at the can and condition of the can under the battery tray..And your vacuum source line is tapped in the the Intake manifold fitting.The 961 vacuum actuators are what it should have came from the factory with.From there pull vacuum on each port on the actuator.It should pull in and not bleed out .And push out and not creep down .Vacuum line with green stripe goes to the vacuum canister under the battery tray , the yellow stripe one goes to the top of the headlight vacuum motor & the plain one goes to the bottom of the motor

[69_500]

I could be wrong on this, but I thought that the springs were to open the headlights, and that the vacuum lines were to close them. So in other words the vacuum should make the rods come in, to close the headlights. Which would be why when there is a vacuum leak on the older unrestored cars that the headlights have a tendency to creep up as the day goes on.

[A383Wing]

I was understanding that the springs were a "fail safe" system in case vacuum was lost to open the headlight buckets. When I built our car, I left the springs off....lights open and close as they should.....I have a friend up here with a Hemi 4spd 'Bird (original) that after a week of sitting, the headlights are open becuse holding vacuum was lost........

Bryan (could be wrong)

[Aero426]

Vacuum applied to the rear fitting retracts the pushrod. 

Vacuum applied to the front fitting extends the pushrod to open the lights.

The springs are a fail safe and can be backed off.

The dashboard switch diverts the vacuum to either the open or close circuit.

Are these the BE/A repro actuators or rebuilt ones from Wilson Products?

[nascarxx29]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,19205.0.html

[70Sbird]

I'm assuming that everything is OK with the rest of my system (not talking about bleed down now) since I do have full vacuum from the switch at the rear of the actuator with the headlights off, and full vacuum at the front of the actuator with the headlight switch on.
The actuators however are not moving to open position with the rod extended when the switch is "on"
At this point I can only assume that the actuators are not working properly??

[Aero426]

At this point I can only assume that the actuators are not working properly??

If you have full vacuum in the both positions, and the pushrod will not extend when you bench test it, something is wrong with the actuator. 

[Daytona R/T SE]

Hmmm...


http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,42592.0.html

[BigBlockSam]

 

[JR]

Maybe theres too much caffene in the gasoline and it can't sleep.

Try some low octane fuel.


Sorry, I ate too much sugar today. Good luck with it.