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Author Topic: Project '69 Windshield, Back Glass, & Moldings Installation! **UPDATED**  (Read 31025 times)
bill440rt
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« on: May 05, 2008, 06:18:29 PM »

OK, now that after the dash is in it was time to move on to the windshield & back glass.
So far, I've done everything on this car mostly myself, with the exception of the sandblasting & rebuilding the rear end center section. Installing the glass was something I thought to leave to a professional for several reasons: 1) Risk of leakage, 2) Risk of breakage, 3) I didn't want to do it twice.
I called around to several glass shops that came highly recommended, they all wanted the same price to install a windshield & back glass: $125 each. That's the going rate around here. I went with a company called Pro Auto Glass, they have several locations throughout NJ. They knew exactly how to install them, were very neat, & nothing got damaged.
Here's how it went:

1) First, the windshield gasket is laid into place around the windshield opening. Then, it was sprayed with glass cleaner & the windshield was laid on top of the gasket, starting at the bottom. The glass cleaner aids in sliding the glass into the gasket.

2) Then, using a plastic tool, it is run around the gasket & windshield allowing the glass to slide into the gasket.

3 & 4) Liquid urethane was then pumped in around the gasket along the base & up both sides, until it oozed out. This ensured a leak-proof seal.




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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bill440rt
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« Reply #1 on: May 05, 2008, 06:21:48 PM »

After the urethane was applied, it was time to seal the gasket lock-strip. This will force any excess urethane out, & provide a tight seal against the windshield. More foamy glass cleaner was applied to help slide the lock strip into place.

After closing the lock strip, the excess urethane was cleaned up.


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bill440rt
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« Reply #2 on: May 05, 2008, 06:28:51 PM »

Now, onto the back glass.
The guys at Pro Auto Glass liked to use a foam 1/4" glass dam to set the height of the back glass. Small rubber spacers were used at the bottom also to hold the glass in the proper position.

1) This is the foam dam & rubber blocks installed. Pinchweld primer was applied to the pinchweld area & onto the outer edge of the glass as well. This ensures maximum adhesion of the urethane.

2) The back glass was then test-fitted.

3) The glass was then removed, & a bead of urethane was ran all along the foam glass dam. This glass company preferred urethane, as it gives a more water tight seal. Butyl ribbon tends to dry out over time thus no longer flexing with the body, causing cracks & leaks. This will not leak.
The glass was then put back in place, & the urethane smoothed out, forcing it also under the glass.


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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bill440rt
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« Reply #3 on: May 05, 2008, 06:39:47 PM »

OK, these were allowed to dry overnight. Now, on to the moldings.

1 & 2) I started with the upper right back glass molding first. Mark the clips with tape, that way you know where to apply pressure to get them to seat. A rubber mallet wrapped with a rag works great to set the moldings. I hit the other side of the mallet with my hand to clip the molding in place.
I then did the upper left molding, & then finally the lower with the corner pieces. The corners are the hardest.


3) Then, I moved to the drip moldings. The 1/4 panel belt moldings must be installed first. Then the drip molding. I found it easiest to set the top part of the molding on first, then snap the bottom into place. Work from rear to front, starting at the 1/4 belt molding. The rag & mallet works good here, too.

4) Finally, install the A-pillar molding the same way. Then, the little corner piece.


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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bill440rt
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« Reply #4 on: May 05, 2008, 06:43:35 PM »

The driver's side was installed the same way.

I need to finish off the roof vinyl top moldings at the 1/4 panels & rear window. Also, the door belt moldings. Hopefully I can get to those tomorrow & post more progress pictures.

I'm at a standstill with the windshield moldings. Turns out I need the upper windshield molding. The one that came with the car was trashed, & a spare that I had planned on using fits terrible. So, the hunt is on.

I need to concentrate on the engine now, here's where things get really slow...  icon_smile_dissapprove


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Shakey
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« Reply #5 on: May 05, 2008, 07:00:30 PM »


What a great thread!  I'm hoping to do this at one point in 2008.   rotz

Thanks for the pointers.
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Back N Black
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« Reply #6 on: May 05, 2008, 07:04:12 PM »

Great job! thanks for the explanation and pics. Cars looks awesome.  cheers
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Just 6T9 CHGR
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« Reply #7 on: May 05, 2008, 08:38:34 PM »

Sweeeet!  Another great progress thread.   Bill did you test fit the vinyl top check moldings?  The reason I ask is because when they installed my rear window they used a too large diameter butyl tape so the window is further out of the channel.  This caused my check moldings to but up & bend at the rear window chrome rotz
By the looks of your chrome trim around the rear window it looks like yours will fit correctly.  Your trim is recessed at the roof line....mine is flush with it.

One day Ill get the gumption to pull the trim, get a new repro back glass ( mine is scratched badly) & redo it.   While I'm at it maybe Ill get the front windshield resealed as well...

Those guys come out to SI, NY?  They looked like they knew what they were doing.... thumbs
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Chris' '69 Charger R/T

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« Reply #8 on: May 05, 2008, 09:31:36 PM »

Very cool to see it and read it all together. Nice. Thanks
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Corellian Corvette
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« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2008, 12:46:45 AM »

Bill - great thread! I'm going to be having this done soon. You mention something called a "lock strip" for the front? Is this a different piece that what comes with the rubber seal? I have the seal but nothing else don't want the guy to come here and not have all the parts! Thanks!
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bricklayer
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« Reply #10 on: May 06, 2008, 05:00:02 PM »

Bill did you get new glass? if so did the shop buy it or did you ? if so where did you get it ? One more question please where did you get the vinyl top and did you install thanks  tom Lititz PA.
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bill440rt
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« Reply #11 on: May 06, 2008, 07:58:34 PM »

Thanks, guys!  2thumbs

Sweeeet!  Another great progress thread.   Bill did you test fit the vinyl top check moldings?  The reason I ask is because when they installed my rear window they used a too large diameter butyl tape so the window is further out of the channel.  This caused my check moldings to but up & bend at the rear window chrome rotz
By the looks of your chrome trim around the rear window it looks like yours will fit correctly.  Your trim is recessed at the roof line....mine is flush with it.

One day Ill get the gumption to pull the trim, get a new repro back glass ( mine is scratched badly) & redo it.   While I'm at it maybe Ill get the front windshield resealed as well...

Those guys come out to SI, NY?  They looked like they knew what they were doing.... thumbs


Thanks for pointing that out, Chris. Yes, I tested the check moldings & they fit perfect. Nice & flush. I WILL update this thread once I finish installing the roof moldings. However, not to point out the flaws, but check out the rear window moldings at the roof. It's higher on the driver's side upper corner, & everything is clipped tight. These cars were less than perfect when new, but I wish it fit better.
The glass guy said installing these windows are actually fairly easy to do, so removing the glass & re-installing new ones should be cake for them. They might come out to S.I., not sure.

Bill - great thread! I'm going to be having this done soon. You mention something called a "lock strip" for the front? Is this a different piece that what comes with the rubber seal? I have the seal but nothing else don't want the guy to come here and not have all the parts! Thanks!

Thanks, CC. Yes, the lock strip is an integral part of the windshield gasket. It's molded in. Basically, once the glass is in place one side of the gasket is tucked into the other, a little rubber ridge holds it in place. That's the lock strip.


Bill did you get new glass? if so did the shop buy it or did you ? if so where did you get it ? One more question please where did you get the vinyl top and did you install thanks  tom Lititz PA.


Hi Tom,
The windshield is new, the back glass was a good original. The windshield is made by Pilkington, I got it at a local swap meet from a classic car glass vendor. You can probably get a Pilkington windshield from any good glass vendor, or a classic car glass vendor. It was under $200. Also, the glass installer even said the Pilkington's are the best for these cars. The current PPG windshields are not good, even the glass guy agreed. They are thinner, more defective, & more prone to leakage. The Pilkington name is not correct for a concours resto, but for a modified car or driver it was fine for me.
I got the vinyl top from Dante's, it's made by Legendary. And yes, I installed it myself.
Here's the thread on the vinyl top installation:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,30095.0.html
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« Reply #12 on: May 07, 2008, 01:32:17 AM »

Thanks Bill.....be sure to give me their name at E-town thumbs
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bill440rt
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« Reply #13 on: May 15, 2008, 06:31:29 PM »

OK, I finally got some free time to finish up installing the roof trim.

1 & 2) The two rearmost clips are threaded with speed nuts, the others just clip in thru the holes.

3) I installed the "V" potmetal trim first, leaving it loose on the bottom so the stainless trim can just slide into in. Then, the stainless molding gets clipped into place. Be very careful, it's easy to dent this piece. I also like to use electrical tape to protect the paint vs masking tape, there's less tendency for it to tear.


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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
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« Reply #14 on: May 15, 2008, 06:33:50 PM »

looking better all the time Bill!!  2thumbs
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
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« Reply #15 on: May 15, 2008, 06:36:51 PM »

The door belt moldings were the last pieces. They get unique clips that are graded in size, & color coded. The old ones were decent, so I just re-used them.
The clips are also bowed in profile, not flat. And, the "arrows" are actually angled, not straight. If you're holding the molding in front of you, they need to be pointing outward toward the skin of the door, not towards the inside. Otherwise, they'll hit the inner frame of the door & not seat properly. The rearmost clips gets a 10/24 threaded nut on the underside. This is a special open cap nut, zinc plated.



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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
bill440rt
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« Reply #16 on: May 15, 2008, 06:38:33 PM »

looking better all the time Bill!!  2thumbs


Thanks, Brian!!  wave
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« Reply #17 on: May 15, 2008, 06:40:54 PM »

Awesome! Looks beautiful! drool5
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1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1971 Charger R/T: B5 Blue 440 Automatic
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
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« Reply #18 on: May 15, 2008, 06:41:03 PM »

looking better all the time Bill!!  2thumbs


Thanks, Brian!!  wave

Its deserved Bill!!!......now if I can just get you talked into slapping them skinnys back on you red 68.  nana  Cheesy
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
bill440rt
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« Reply #19 on: May 15, 2008, 06:49:08 PM »

looking better all the time Bill!!  2thumbs


Thanks, Brian!!  wave

Its deserved Bill!!!......now if I can just get you talked into slapping them skinnys back on you red 68.  nana  Cheesy


They may just stay on after this weekend's Atlantic Mopar Nats show here in NJ!  rofl    I hope to bring it to Carlisle looking like that. We'll see.




Awesome! Looks beautiful! drool5

Guess it's still not good enough for your "Member's Restoration" thread?  shruggy  nana
Do a search here using the words "Project '69" & you'll find many useful "how-to" threads pertaining to this car. I know you know how.  Cheesy 2thumbs
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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
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« Reply #20 on: May 15, 2008, 06:54:49 PM »

looking better all the time Bill!!  2thumbs


Thanks, Brian!!  wave

Its deserved Bill!!!......now if I can just get you talked into slapping them skinnys back on you red 68.  nana  Cheesy


They may just stay on after this weekend's Atlantic Mopar Nats show here in NJ!  rofl    I hope to bring it to Carlisle looking like that. We'll see.

Good , thats how i hope to see it at Carlisle!!
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68 Charger R/t white with black v/t and red tailstripe. 440 4 speed ,black interior
68 383 auto with a/c and power windows. Now 440 4 speed jj1 gold black interior .
My Charger is a hybrid car, it burns gas and rubber............
69bronzeT5
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« Reply #21 on: May 15, 2008, 07:42:12 PM »

Guess it's still not good enough for your "Member's Restoration" thread?  shruggy  nana
Do a search here using the words "Project '69" & you'll find many useful "how-to" threads pertaining to this car. I know you know how.  Cheesy 2thumbs

I add them as I find them. I'll add the ones regarding your resto asap 2thumbs
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1969 Charger: T5 Copper 383 Automatic
1971 Charger R/T: B5 Blue 440 Automatic
1971 Charger Super Bee: GY3 Citron Yella 440 4-Speed
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« Reply #22 on: August 11, 2014, 05:10:48 AM »

Thanks Bill, you're thread really help!  cheers
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Quentin
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« Reply #23 on: September 29, 2014, 09:06:23 AM »

Just a question Bill,
You put liquid gasket all around the windshield or as told in the manual ?
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Quentin
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« Reply #24 on: September 29, 2014, 03:33:56 PM »

Just a question Bill,
You put liquid gasket all around the windshield or as told in the manual ?


Hey PR,
I watched the glass installer put urethane along the entire base and about halfway up the pillars.  2thumbs
He did not use the "stay tacky" stuff outlined in the manual, but actual windshield urethane.
No leaks still.
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"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce
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