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rusty metal question?

Started by 1BAD68, October 29, 2008, 09:11:49 AM

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after I cut the lower quarter panel rusted area out, I was surprised at how solid the trunk extension is. It looks like I can just wire brush it clean.
Whats a good coating to put on here to prevent it from rusting later as this area is going to be covered when finished?

The holes just above where its cut were apparently someones way of pulling a dent years ago.


I would say replace it since you are that far. It looks pretty pitted to me. You will never get all that cleaned up. I bet you will have holes if you start cleaning it up  :Twocents:
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its definately pitted but very solid, the drain plug really did a good job over the last 41 years. But either way, I know there's areas I'll need to coat with something as I rip the rusty metal out.


I'd replace it if you can just to be sure, that's just me. but there's products like Picklex 20 which is a rust coverter, Zerorust which deprives the rust of oxygen which keeps metal from rusting (both work well together), and things like that that can help in certain areas along your resto.  But, nothing makes you feel better than knowing the rust is dead or gone.  I'd make it gone.   :Twocents:  Ted


POR-15 seals out water and air. It is like $50 a pint.

I have used the brush on product in engine bay and trunk and it worked
very well. The stuff is tough, When I first drove my car the master cylinder cover leaked, the fluid went through the finish coat and primer under the leak but did not phase the POR-15.
68 MM1 (Turbine Bronze) R/T


It looks way to pitted to leave behind. No matter what type of coating you put on it, in several years it will be small pin holes.
I think the best thing to do is repair/replace it while you are in that area.

Nothing to see here folks, its just a Bluesmobile


My questions are budget, how extensively are you doing the resto, etc....
My gut is you are there and replacements are not that much to get rid of it, but like I said, what are your plans for the outcome of the vehicle?
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Mike DC

If the original stuff really doesn't have holes all the way through it, then I'd say keep it. 

The thing to keep in mind is that it's not really a question of:  "Make it solid or leave it pitted?" 

It's really a question of:  "Do I want pitted-but-solid original metal that's all original from the factory?  Or do I prefer cheaper-grade Asian steel, made with different tooling, that's been re-cut & welded in by a body shop recently?" 

We have to look at it on a case-by-case basis and decide when the Asian replacement becomes the better end result than the compromised original metal.  IMHO it's not always such a clear-cut thing to judge.


The voice of reason strikes again.  Good point Mike :cheers:
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?


put a wire wheel on it and you will have Swiss cheese.


I wire wheeled it and it was fine, only in the very bottom corner it was thin so I cut out a small area and welded in some 22 gauge steel.
The paint store had SEM rust convertor and the guy recommended it so I sprayed the whole area with it and it turned black.
Now for the outer skin, he recommended copper weld thru primer, so I have some now and am wondering if that will protect the back side of the outer skin from future rusting?


After you wire wheel it id use a product called miracle rust remover from bill hursch automotive love the stuff only thing ive come across that works as good then i usually use por 25 or something similar to seal it up


Anyone who runs any Brake Fluid other than DOT 5 silicone in their classic car lives in the Stone age !!! silicone is the ONLY brake fluid to use ...........

Silver R/T

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722


I used to swear by por 15 when I started using it a few years ago. Now I will not use in on my wheel barrel. Its JUNK. It does not stop rust. The rust eats up the metal under the paint. I properly prepped dozens of areas by removing scale and wire brushing area and then using was & grease remover. I did this on my charger 2 years ago. The car has been GARAGED since the coating was applied, and never left outside 1 day, never been wet or washed. As of a few months ago, Not even 2 years since the coating was applied the rust has came right through the por-15 on every panel I used it on. I scraped the por -15 off and it was rusting badly under the paint. The stuff is so cheap you can PEAL it off in strips! I now use OSPHO rust converter. Its basically phosphoric acid. SEM brand is also good. I spray the rust and let it sit for 12 hrs and turn black. The rust is chemically dead. Then it can be painted with ANYTHING, you can use regular automotive self etching primer, no rust stoping paint needed on a ospho treated panel. POR-15 just COVERS rust, and does not convert it! Also there is alot of rust converters on the market. The eastwood is not very good. I used it and rust came back immediately, even after por-15 was painted over the converter. The stuff autozone sells is also junk.
68 Charger original SS1 paint with matching # 383hp


99 % of Eastwood  items in the catolog is way overpriced and most can be bought from Harbor freight for a fraction of price . Bottom line on rust , sandblast is best ! If you can , acid is next best .