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Author Topic: I need some daytona measurements , Please  (Read 17514 times)
BigBlockSam
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« on: July 28, 2005, 01:57:39 PM »

hey guys
   i had all these   measurements. in a folder that i saved all the threads from the old board. now there gone. so i need     Daytona wing placement. how far from the rear of quarter panel . size of trunk lid and were the trunk begins. you know, how far from the gas cap ring to the beginning of trunk opening. and any other ones you guys think i may   need to put this vega window plug in . thanks Rene

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Old Moparz
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« Reply #1 on: July 28, 2005, 02:21:42 PM »

 popcrn  First time I ever used the popcorn guy.
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hemigeno
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« Reply #2 on: July 28, 2005, 05:40:09 PM »

I can get you the measurements sometime tomorrow if no one else posts them.   Let me know specifically what other dimensions you need and I'll measure 'em up for you.
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BigBlockSam
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« Reply #3 on: July 28, 2005, 07:34:18 PM »

thanks hemigeno
 i think that should do it i'm starting with the back cause it looks the hardest. Rene
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« Reply #4 on: July 28, 2005, 07:54:52 PM »

I would have measured the rear deck lid for you, but the car is at my parents house for the week. I wouldn't have been any use on the measurements of the wing however.
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« Reply #5 on: July 28, 2005, 09:46:31 PM »

Contact David Patik at Performance Car Graphics:    CarGraphix@aol.com   He makes a set of Daytona location templates. I got the set from him, it includes the wing location template, template for cutting the front fenders for the valance, and the template for cutting the holes in the fenders for the scoops!  The best part? It's FREE boogie to Winged Warriors/National B-body Owners members-you ARE a member AREN"T YOU?   I did have to pay $12 for the UPS though, WELL worth it!!!!  Made my wing install a BREESE  yesnod
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BigBlockSam
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« Reply #6 on: July 28, 2005, 09:59:13 PM »

why YES I AM a member of the winged warriors.  i called him about a month ago and they said that he would be back july 18. i forgot about him. thanks. i will call him tomarrow. i still need the other measurements . Rene
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Daytona R/T SE
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« Reply #7 on: July 28, 2005, 10:17:47 PM »

The trunk lid should be in the neighborhood of 21 1/2 inches long, from front to back, but from what I understand this is not the best size for every car, the trunk lids were all made the same, but the cars differed. Once installed, some trunk lids were WAY off ! My trunklid is the next thing I'm going to do on mine, I'll have the quarter end caps bolted in place and the rear window plug installed, THEN I'll measure for the length of the trunklid.
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BigBlockSam
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« Reply #8 on: July 29, 2005, 10:49:00 PM »

i'm just tring to get a general idea of the specs. thanks
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« Reply #9 on: July 29, 2005, 11:11:15 PM »

To make the trunk lid look absolutely correct, it needs to have a radius to it. It shouldn't be cut straight accross like a regular trunk lid. If you look closely at a real 500 or a Daytona you'll see what i'm talking about.
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Daytona R/T SE
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« Reply #10 on: July 29, 2005, 11:17:15 PM »

To make the trunk lid look absolutely correct, it needs to have a radius to it. It shouldn't be cut straight accross like a regular trunk lid. If you look closely at a real 500 or a Daytona you'll see what i'm talking about.

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Daytona Guy
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« Reply #11 on: July 29, 2005, 11:44:03 PM »

Hey, Daytona R/T SE, do you have any pics of your progress? What are you using for the plug? It will be nice to follow someone else's progress.

 
 
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« Reply #12 on: July 30, 2005, 12:27:17 AM »

I'm using Janak's parts. I'm going to add some bracing to the fiberglass plug, hopefully I'll be able to prevent the cracking some people have experienced, I know some others have had good results useing the glass plugs. I'll post some pictures when it actually starts to look like something.
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BigBlockSam
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« Reply #13 on: July 30, 2005, 08:45:42 AM »

Quote
  it needs to have a radius 

yes, i agree also. i have lots of pics of realones that i've taken at shows. i will have to build it up in spots to get it correct. i have i picture of one done incorrectly also. what not to do. i'm really excited about this. should be alot of fun. Rene   boogie
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« Reply #14 on: July 30, 2005, 12:18:04 PM »

I've never checked out a cloned car using a Vega hatch, but does it come down flat? Or does it have a radius to it?
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hotrod98
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« Reply #15 on: July 30, 2005, 05:59:47 PM »

The Dayclona guys quoted me $500 to convert my deck lid plus the cost of the reinforcement piece. After studying a Charger 500 deck lid at a show a few weeks ago, I think that I just might let them. That bend at the back is going to be very difficult to do correctly. It's a 90 degree bend, but at the same time it's in an arc across the back edge...kind of hard to explain. It doesn't break completely over like you would expect. I guess since it's a clone, you could do whatever you want since 99% of the people out there would never know the difference.
As for the vega plug I'm going to wait until I've got the deck lid finished so that I can complete the rear trough and then cut and blend the plug in to match. It's the only logical way to do it to make everything align up.

Here's a pic of an unfinished piece that I found somewhere on the net.


* vegaplug.jpg (96 KB, 576x432 - viewed 753 times.)
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hotrod98
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« Reply #16 on: July 30, 2005, 06:09:00 PM »

BTW, bigblocksam
Here's a pic of my donor car. Real R/T SE triple black auto. The only part that I don't like is that it has an a/c firewall. I'll probably just fill in the hole where the condensor lines come through the firewall and use the a/c style housing. There may be a way to hook up the a/c on a hemi car but don't think so because lines come out right behind the right head. Thank God my chal convert isn't an a/c car.


* vernon26.jpg (101.96 KB, 640x427 - viewed 746 times.)
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BigBlockSam
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« Reply #17 on: July 30, 2005, 07:39:03 PM »

nice car! it definitely makes it easier when you start with a good body. i like that blue roadrunner. that blue is great. i have a 69 satellite, with a 440 4 speed, thats a fun car to drive. i look forward to seeing your hemi daytona, very cool. METAL   today i made a cardboard template of the rear window area and the sail area. now I'm getting a clear picture of what material i have to remove from the back of the vega hatch. i want to contour the sides a bit so it fits like a glove and i get the correct radius.   without using alot of bondo. all metal . I'm having a blast . it's like building a big model car.
   hey hotrod98 send me another email so i can save your address.
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BigBlockSam
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« Reply #18 on: July 30, 2005, 08:00:30 PM »

i have that picture to. thats Dane's car. your never gonna get it exact to an original. it's just gotta look good.. i think i should install the plug first. then cut  out the top edge of the trunk opening. move it down to where you want it. i 'm gonna have to reinforce where i cut it out of, for strength . then channel the trunk to fit. seems easier that way but plans may change when i do it. thats plan A . i 'hope  i will not  have to go to a plan B . alot of people get the correct radius with bondo. yes, i will have to use some but i want to keep it down to a minimum.

hey is that your  garage in the picture?  Rene
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« Reply #19 on: July 30, 2005, 08:34:59 PM »

Rene, for me that is why I'm making a 70 daytona clone. I really do not have the skill level to do the rear plug and I know my limitations. I would love to have the rear plug and make a 69 daytona, but it's a lot easier for me to just do a 70 clone.  Keep us up to date on your progess.
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BigBlockSam
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« Reply #20 on: July 30, 2005, 09:34:43 PM »

hey thallium
  good to see ya here. don't worry i'm gonna take alot of pics and when its done i should be able to tell you step by step what i've learned. i'm trying to find an aluminum foundry to cast some wings from mine for the future. did you get that six banger in your daytona yet?  cheers     Peace-- Rene
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« Reply #21 on: July 30, 2005, 10:58:52 PM »

bigblocksam,
That's my shop at the house. It's a 40 x 50 and has a lift. Makes it easier to remove the engine and tranny from the bottom like mother mopar intended. Unfortunately, I outgrew the shop immediately. I have a two car garage attached to the house and another two car garage behind the big shop and they're full. My basement is full of e and b body parts.  We're planning to build a 4 car garage at the other end of the house that is 12 feet tall so that I can put 4 double stack lifts in. I'll keep 4 of the cars that we don't drive as much on top and another 4 on bottom. I need the shop space for other projects. My challenger convertible is in there waiting on the hemi install. I'm currently restoring a 67 GTX matching numbers hemi 4 speed at the dealership where I work. It will have to come home to be reassembled soon. The money for my projects comes from the resto work. Fortunately, I have 4 acres so we can grow as time and money allows. I'll send you an e-mail.
BTW, I have the superbee twin to the runner.


* 69bee02a.jpg (10.48 KB, 500x375 - viewed 717 times.)

* shopcuda1a.jpg (16.77 KB, 500x375 - viewed 710 times.)
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« Reply #22 on: July 30, 2005, 11:20:06 PM »

Bigblocksam,  I ended up getting myself a little car to make the commute and I will be sticking with the original plan of a 440.
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Daytona Guy
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« Reply #23 on: July 30, 2005, 11:49:09 PM »

bigblocksam,
That's my shop at the house. It's a 40 x 50 and has a lift. Makes it easier to remove the engine and tranny from the bottom like mother mopar intended. Unfortunately, I outgrew the shop immediately. I have a two car garage attached to the house and another two car garage behind the big shop and they're full. My basement is full of e and b body parts.   We're planning to build a 4 car garage at the other end of the house that is 12 feet tall so that I can put 4 double stack lifts in. I'll keep 4 of the cars that we don't drive as much on top and another 4 on bottom. I need the shop space for other projects. My challenger convertible is in there waiting on the hemi install. I'm currently restoring a 67 GTX matching numbers hemi 4 speed at the dealership where I work. It will have to come home to be reassembled soon. The money for my projects comes from the resto work. Fortunately, I have 4 acres so we can grow as time and money allows. I'll send you an e-mail.
BTW, I have the superbee twin to the runner.

I'm impressed  drool5 2thumbs punkrocka
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BigBlockSam
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« Reply #24 on: July 31, 2005, 09:36:58 AM »

holy molly! your a lucky man. i can't believe you have that bee. when i was 15 , my next door neighbor had that same color and yr bee. he was 19yrs old and had a job that took him away for weeks at a time. so he left the keys with me to start it up  and warm it up every couple of days. I'm was  15 with keys to a killer superbee. i use to take it to school and back. i never abused it or filled it full of my friends. i did use  it alot though. i was 15 it was great. so that is on my list to buy sometime in my life. it has to be b5 blue with a white stripe.
  i live in the inner city. i have one garage and it is full of motorcycles. i do all my work outside, it's a bitch. i store my cars in may yard covered and i have two outdoor car capsules for the winters . they work well.
 me and my wife are looking for land to build our dream house, her dream kitchen and my dream garage. 50/50.  i got my eye on a piece of land in jackson NJ. 5 acres. then the fun really begins.   boogie
 
thallium , thats the way to go your a gear head that needs "more power sotty" i small car with good gas mil. and good tunes to keep you awake.

 seeeeee yaaaaa Rene
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BigBlockSam
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« Reply #25 on: July 31, 2005, 09:38:55 AM »

hay 69_500

Dane's car was done with a vega hatchback. it looks real good too
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Old Moparz
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« Reply #26 on: July 31, 2005, 11:39:01 AM »

I had exchanged emails with the foundry that originally cast the wings from 1969 called "Hackett Brass" & I know I posted the name on D-C.com, but we all know where those posts went. I initially emailed someone on Moparts.com ("wingcars69/70" named Dave) about Ted Janak's wings & the conversation led to who made the originals. The person at Hackett Brass told me they don't have the molds, but if they had another wing they can do it again. I never persued it because I didn't have an original one, & Dane hooked me up with one when he was having his made.

Here's their site:

http://hackettbrass.com/specitem.htm

Bob
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« Reply #27 on: July 31, 2005, 01:00:18 PM »

I had the 500 out yesterday and this morning for a few hours of driving pleasure and got to thinking about the rear deck lid. So I got out a tape and measured it, on the corners it is 21 1/2 inches from front to back. As well as 21 1/2 inches in the center of the trunk. However at the 1/4 and 3/4 marks from left to right the trunk lid is 3/4 inches shorter. Then I got to measuring the window plug. From the bottom of the window to the trunk lip it is was 12 1/2 inches in the center and edges, but 11 3/4 at the 1/4 and 3/4 marks from left to right. So it is a pretty significant bend going acrross there.
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hemigeno
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« Reply #28 on: July 31, 2005, 05:50:18 PM »

Here's a couple of pics I posted shortly before D-C.com flatlined...

You can clearly see the curvature that the decklid has.



* TrunkLip01small.JPG (44.59 KB, 784x523 - viewed 712 times.)

* TrunkLip03small.JPG (59.4 KB, 784x523 - viewed 724 times.)
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hotrod98
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« Reply #29 on: July 31, 2005, 06:13:56 PM »

I'm assuming that the trunk reinforcement finisher is only available as a fiberglass component. That bothers me because it really seems that it would be critical for that part to be steel so that it can be welded in as the originals were. Otherwise it seems that it would seperate. Things like this make me almost think about leaving the back glass alone altogether. You don't know how much I wish that Dodge had left that back glass stock. lol

bigblocksam
I say go for it. Get out in the country and build that dream garage. We're not getting any younger and the cost of land and construction just keeps getting higher.

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« Reply #30 on: July 31, 2005, 09:37:49 PM »

Things like this make me almost think about leaving the back glass alone altogether. You don't know how much I wish that Dodge had left that back glass stock. lol



I'll second that. I don't like the rear window on the Daytona & will leave it alone so it's the standard recessed window which looks a lot better to me. I would like to have an authentic looking car, but I don't want to go through all that work to achieve something I don't really care for. The car won't be anywhere near stock anyway, so I'm going to enjoy it.
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hotrod98
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« Reply #31 on: July 31, 2005, 09:57:54 PM »

It's funny how you can go back and forth on something like this back glass issue. I'm still trying to buy a superbird so I might just want to convert this car back some day. I guess if it wasn't an R/T SE car, I'd just go ahead and do it. It's not just the back glass thing though, it's doing the deck lid where it will fit right and getting the hinges to work right. Then you have to worry about the interior trim pieces. It's not really the cost, but it's the amount of time that it will take away from working on my customer's cars. This is not my final answer though.
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« Reply #32 on: July 31, 2005, 10:40:54 PM »

hi  guys
 did you hear my printer going. snag those 2 piics. see that trunk lid in that pic. mine will not look like that. it will be straight across.same as the stock 69 charger trunk lid.  if you look at all the clones there straight across. the radius that i'm talking about is at the bottom and sides of the plug. it has to be rounded into the top of the quarters.
  hey hotrod that charger of yours is a money car. worth alot . its a real rt. you can find a plane jane roller cheap and go to town on it. bringing back history, even clones eduacate younger people about mopar history .
  your rite most people see the wing and nose and have no idea about the rear window  scope
plug.  we don't need no stinking plug. i'm building it to have fun. burn the tires off of it.  drive i think that little guy has a gas problem  blush2
  the window plug makes it for me. makes it real.  for me. it's your car do what you want as long as your happy.
 i find it fun to figure things out and then see them come alive.
 i emailed Chris from the 70's board. he has a friend with a killer daytona. there's a place near here called the whiskey. i like that name.  cheers   he said there's been acouple of daytona's there every weekend. so i'm gonna clean the 39 and go there next sat. i'll get some good pics.
  here is a picture of the plug done wrong.  see the square lines. should be rounded smooth. Peace-Rene
 



* wrong.JPG (19.75 KB, 450x244 - viewed 684 times.)
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« Reply #33 on: July 31, 2005, 11:14:03 PM »

Not all clones have a straight trunk. My Red one had a very small radius, but my Yellow one has an accurate radius if you can tell from this pic. It is interesting reading all this. As you can tell, adding that rear window is a job that will take the life out of you. I have only done about half my clones with the plug. Those I did not do, I still had a ball driving them. The back plug does add value, but not everyone is after that.

I do not want to advertise this to much, but I am looking at making another wing for myself, I try to stay one step ahead on my parts, and if someone is wanting a cast wing, I can see how many this foundry will do. Any takers email me. DGjesdal@aol.com

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« Reply #34 on: July 31, 2005, 11:17:02 PM »

bigblocksam,
I see what you mean. When I brought my vega plug home, I set it on the back aprrox where it would fit. I was more than a little surprised at how wide the plug is. It's going to be real tricky getting that roundness in there. I realize now that you weren't talking about the radius of the front edge of the deck lid.
Last year at the Monster Mopar Weekend was the first time that I really paid attention to the Daytonas. I learn a little every time I look at one.
I'm really not worried about the body work, it's just the time factor for me. I spent the entire day today in the paint booth painting the inside and the underside of the 67 gtx hemi car that I'm restoring now. I still have many hours of blocking before the rest of the car is ready to shoot.
I want to finish painting the fenders and valances for my own chal convert but can't find the time. I'm not taking on any more customer work until my convert is together and I hear that hemi come to life.
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« Reply #35 on: August 01, 2005, 08:40:57 AM »

since i will be using the stock charger trunk opening lip, the trunk lid won't be totaly straight. it'll have alittle radius. Rene
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« Reply #36 on: August 01, 2005, 12:44:12 PM »

My trunk opening lip is real solid and I planned to do the same thing. Just move it back as one piece if possible. Of course the deklid would not have much radius. Will you use the f/g deck lid reinforcement piece?
I still think that you should alter the deck lid first, move the trunk lip second (tacked in of course) and then cut the plug. Maybe that's the way you planned to do it all along.
Are you using wing washers and did you make them yourself? They look like they would be pretty easy to make and would certainly keep the top of the quarters from stress cracking. You have to allow for their thickness when making the wing supports.
BTW, as soon as I hear back on the Superbird that I'm trying to buy, I'll decide on ordering that wing. I may go ahead and order it anyway. The Superbird's a long shot and I would have to mortgage the house just to buy it.  As much as I love Daytona clones, I would still take a real bird over one. (if the costs are similar that is)
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« Reply #37 on: August 01, 2005, 01:03:52 PM »

Hope this helps - This is a crude sketch to show how it can fit. Also, before you put the plug in - put the headliner (modified charger rear window headliner fittings) hardware on around the back window. Once it is in you will never be able to put it on, then you will have to get creative.

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« Reply #38 on: August 01, 2005, 01:17:01 PM »

See, that's vital information. I didn't think about the gap at the top. I hadn't got to that line of thought yet.
I keep telling you that you should put together a book. It doesn't have to be fancy, could even be photocopied on heavy paper.  With drawings, measurments photos, etc., I bet a lot of guys would donate pics of their projects at no charge just to be a part of it. I'll buy the first copy. I think that if you could find a vendor at the nats, carlisle, etc, they could sell a bunch of them. Just a thought.
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« Reply #39 on: August 01, 2005, 01:17:21 PM »

<<My trunk opening lip is real solid and I planned to do the same thing. Just move it back as one piece if possible. >>>

Here will be your problem. The Charger drip rail has just the opposite radius. This sounds kind of a dumb way to describe it but the drip rail on the charger is a frown   Sad, and the Daytona is a smile   Smiley PLus by the time you move it back - it will not be wide enough.

Here is the problem with the steel plugs that Dayclona and anyone else that is making them. They look like they are just the skin. You weld those in with out any reinforcements and your drip rail all the way across will be flopping. Look under your charger and see what is there for reinforcement. The Vega is a hatch back lid and is made with three layers of steel. In fact, on a Vega, the ridge that the window sets in has two layers of steel. The steel reproduction ones are one layer, and of what kind of steel? - I do not know. Once you cut the bottom off the Vega, you will need to weld those layers back together. That will give you your strength. When that trunk lid closes, with your trunk rubber seal installed, it will not flex.

<<I still think that you should alter the deck lid first, move the trunk lip second >>>

This is a good idea. If you have Dayclona do the lid, then do this by all means.



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« Reply #40 on: August 01, 2005, 02:13:33 PM »

so you  make your drip rail from the vega plug  metal and leave the stock one in place.  is that what your saying? how did you get those bends in the bottom of the hatch? thats hard to do that nice. did you use a brake? Rene
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« Reply #41 on: August 01, 2005, 02:35:40 PM »

hey 69_500,  thank you for the measurements  of the trunk.  cheers
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« Reply #42 on: August 01, 2005, 03:08:54 PM »

Yes, leave the old drip where it is. That is exactly what the Daytona did. I have made a drip rail out of glass and metal before. My recommendation is to find another car and cut it out. I have been told that some of the four door Dodge cars are close. For that matter find any car and look for the correct radius and weld it on.
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« Reply #43 on: August 01, 2005, 05:42:46 PM »

No problem on those measurements. If you need anymore let me know .I typically get the car out at least 2 times a week, so if you need any pictures of the rear window plug, or deck lid let me know.
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« Reply #44 on: August 01, 2005, 06:24:34 PM »

thanks Guys
   OK, switching to plan B already. i have a feeling there will be a plan   x, y, and z before i'm done. makes sense. that will leave everything structaully stronger. Thank you Dane. i can just make the rail out of metal and add it on. cool. Dane you wanna do mine for me   bow
 just kidding. i luv this. check out the pic, it shows the rail i need, well. Peace Rene


* Dayclonaparts%20029_xLarge.jpg (17.27 KB, 700x525 - viewed 647 times.)
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« Reply #45 on: August 01, 2005, 11:16:23 PM »

No problem on those measurements. If you need anymore let me know .I typically get the car out at least 2 times a week, so if you need any pictures of the rear window plug, or deck lid let me know.

You know the pic I would love to get is under the drip rail. Showing the back side of the plug. I have seen it but I seem to forget some of the details. I know that is an awkward picture to ask for, but it would be cool.
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« Reply #46 on: August 02, 2005, 08:05:04 AM »

Ask and ye shall receive...

This is a picture of the passenger side intersection/corner where they cut out a piece of the old driprail, and welded the plug into the old driprail.



* DripRailRSCorner.JPG (51.89 KB, 523x784 - viewed 638 times.)
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« Reply #47 on: August 02, 2005, 08:06:20 AM »

This one is a shot across the back of the driprail edge, and looking at the Driver's Side corner/intersection.



* DripRailLS.JPG (58.13 KB, 784x523 - viewed 644 times.)
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« Reply #48 on: August 02, 2005, 08:10:30 AM »

This last one is where I shoved the light and the camera up above the old driprail to get a shot of the reinforcement at the bottom edge of the Daytona Back Glass channel.  This is the Right (Passenger's) side corner.  You can see the curvature of the glass channel, and you can see the red paint left on the sail panel, plus the bend/edge of the plug where it fits against the sail panel.

I took 4 other pictures, but they didn't turn out worth a flip.  You gotta fold up like a double-bladed jacknife to get in that sorry excuse for a trunk opening.  I'm glad no one had a camera on me while I was taking these pics   Embarrassed

Hope this helps!!



* WindowPlugReinforcement.JPG (79.36 KB, 784x523 - viewed 651 times.)
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« Reply #49 on: August 02, 2005, 10:33:51 AM »

I just keep learning new stuff.
You just changed an entire train of thought in my head. No wonder everybody scratched their head when I mentioned moving the rear trunk lip forward. It stays right where it it is. Time to regroup. Now I need a detailed pic of the trunk lip from the outside. 
If anyone can remember, someone, somewhere mentioned a set of hinges from a late model car that would work perfect. May have been a full size Phord but I can't remember for sure. They said that they were darn near a bolt in/weld in deal.Only slight mods were needed. Maybe it was one of my Daytona dreams of which there are many.
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« Reply #50 on: August 02, 2005, 10:49:14 AM »

Hemigeno - Priceless, absolutely priceless! You are the man. I do understand your fetal postion. Been there.
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« Reply #51 on: August 02, 2005, 10:55:47 AM »

This last one is where I shoved the light and the camera up above the old driprail to get a shot of the reinforcement at the bottom edge of the Daytona Back Glass channel.   This is the Right (Passenger's) side corner.   You can see the curvature of the glass channel, and you can see the red paint left on the sail panel, plus the bend/edge of the plug where it fits against the sail panel.

Now that makes sense. Just having a steel plug made with out those reinforcements will not cut it. You lean on it or but pressure on it and something will have to give with out those. Look at that under the back glass, wow, that reinforcement goes all the way down to the old Charger   (above the old trunk). Boy, describing stuff is so difficult.

You can see the curvature of the bottom back glass - That is what boggles my mind about how amazing it was to find that the Vega worked so well. To many things just worked out.
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« Reply #52 on: August 02, 2005, 11:30:51 AM »

One tends to forget that back then they were doing basically the same thing that we're attempting to do today, that is the conversion of an existing body style.
If the correct back glass and moldings were available, I think that I have enough info now to make the transformation with the Dayclona panel.
I've always wondered what would be so difficult about manufacturing a correct back glass. I don't think the molds are that expensive to build.
And, someone at Dayclona told me that either they or someone else was working on making the exterior moldings.
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« Reply #53 on: August 02, 2005, 01:02:51 PM »

The molding are really not that bad. If you use their plug, just get a complete charger get and an extra piece and have them welded on. A good stainless steel guy can make it perfect. My concern is the glass. I would never want to pay that much money for a back plug and end up with a piece of plastic for my back window. They scratch and can sag.
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« Reply #54 on: August 02, 2005, 01:25:29 PM »

The back glass is available - even date coded correctly if you want.   Now, I'm talking about a glass piece capable of fitting the original Daytona plug - I have no idea how close a Vega hatch piece comes to the original profile though.

If anyone needs, I can look up the contact info.   I hadn't heard about the window trim being repopped yet, but it makes sense that someone will have to do that sooner or later, or figure out how to modify some old stuff to fit.

How have you guys been handling the front wheel lip moulding?   All Daytonas had F/R wheel lip mouldings - if you see a real one without it, they've lost their originals.   A friend of mine and I are considering whether a regular Charger piece can be straightened to fit the profile with the valance.   Straightening it out WITHOUT making a cut in the leg, that is...

Glad you guys could make some use of the pics - I'd have hated to play contortionist if it weren't so...
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« Reply #55 on: August 02, 2005, 01:44:39 PM »

I was told of a back glass that's available, but it's laminated like a windshield and can break very easily.
The guys at Dayclona said that no one makes a tempered back glass at this time. Just what I've been told.
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« Reply #56 on: August 02, 2005, 02:10:39 PM »

I don't think that because it is laminated that it is therefore more fragile.  Heck, I wouldn't exactly call a windshield easy to break.  If anything, it's safer glass to use since if it does break it won't shatter - it will stay together (the whole purpose of using laminated glass).  Is it a safety thing, where the glass Co's. won't make tempered auto glass anymore?  I honestly don't know - but it could be that.  If it could be reproduced, Roger Gibson & Frank Badalson would have it.

Here's the link from Roger Gibson's website that mentions the glass:

http://www.rogergibsonautorestoration.com/availability.htm
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« Reply #57 on: August 02, 2005, 04:08:45 PM »

Your door glass is much harder to break than your windshield. If you get a rock chip in your door glass or back glass it's just a chip. If you get a rock chip in your windshield, it will crack.
If you bump a windshield against a metal edge it will break, if you bump a door glass or back glass against a metal edge it might make a small chip. Being a body shop manager, I deal with it every day.

I don't have a clue about Gibson's glass. It may be tempered since they're selling door glass as well.
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« Reply #58 on: August 02, 2005, 11:21:32 PM »

I have been under the impression that this piece is not "Glass" but plastic. If it is glass, I do not see a problem with it at all. By the time you get that back window you will be out 1000.00 bucks with shipping I bet.
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« Reply #59 on: August 03, 2005, 05:03:01 PM »

Vega hatch is going in my car this time...Here is a pic of the chunk of trunk cut from my last clone.


* 000_0195.JPG (89.77 KB, 816x616 - viewed 596 times.)

* 000_0196.JPG (94.92 KB, 816x616 - viewed 593 times.)
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« Reply #60 on: August 03, 2005, 10:45:57 PM »

I have been under the impression that this piece is not "Glass" but plastic. If it is glass, I do not see a problem with it at all. By the time you get that back window you will be out 1000.00 bucks with shipping I bet.

I'm not sure how old this info is, but here goes:

Daytona rear glass $700
  OEM Glass
Bloomington, Illinois

1-800-283-2122
I also have these numbers for OEM:

309-662-2122
309-663-7474
Not sure which #s are current

I also have info on another source:
 Iowa Glass 1-800-553-8134,ask for Rick.
Price $650 plus shipping, or have your local body or glass shop order for you and save the shipping.

OEM owns the molds for these windows, they also offer Superbird rear windows. I'll be buying one of these for my car yesnod
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« Reply #61 on: August 03, 2005, 11:13:09 PM »

Wetfeetmi,
Keep us posted on your progress. Sounds like it will be your second go-round on a Daytona project. Would love to hear more.

Daytona R/T SE,
Thanks for the info. Still undecided on direction to go. I have the vega plug and it's tempting to use it because of the cost. The $ could go for a couple of the other parts in steel. You may have read that my clone will be an R/T SE version since it's already an R/T SE car. I have the car up in storage. I go up and start it every couple of weeks. Not enough room in my shop for it yet. One of my painters decide that he wanted to get the car out of storage and do some body work and paint it back black. Told him that he could drive it and show it if he did. I guess he lost interest and left it in primer for me. It was safer with the old black paint on it. I'll get some pics in a few days and post them. It looks a little sad right now.


* vernon26.jpg (101.96 KB, 640x427 - viewed 640 times.)
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« Reply #62 on: August 03, 2005, 11:22:35 PM »

I have been under the impression that this piece is not "Glass" but plastic. If it is glass, I do not see a problem with it at all. By the time you get that back window you will be out 1000.00 bucks with shipping I bet.

I'm not sure how old this info is, but here goes:

Daytona rear glass $700
   OEM Glass
Bloomington, Illinois

1-800-283-2122
I also have these numbers for OEM:

309-662-2122
309-663-7474
Not sure which #s are current

I also have info on another source:
 Iowa Glass 1-800-553-8134,ask for Rick.
Price $650 plus shipping, or have your local body or glass shop order for you and save the shipping.

OEM owns the molds for these windows, they also offer Superbird rear windows. I'll be buying one of these for my car yesnod

That is great. I did not know that. So glass : 700.00 + shipping, Steel Plug 2400.00 + shipping, Deck lid alt: 500.00.  Rear trim welded and fitted 200.00 . If money is not an issue, then go this rout. It will be virtually undetectable. If you can swallow the cost. For me spending 4000.00 extra dollars on the rear window is not my bag. Plus I keep coming back to the fact that it is a clone. Here is another thing that I have noticed. People tend to lose interest when the bucks start to add up. For example - I know of not one Daytona clone that has gone the expensive rout (using all steel) and is finished. Not one. If there are those finished,  I would love to see them, honestly. I think they would be an absolute awesome piece work.

Maybe in 10 years and I have that much money to play with I could go that rout, just not right now. My hat is of for those that can. Good luck.
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« Reply #63 on: August 03, 2005, 11:34:39 PM »

When you add it up like that it does seem a little insane doesn't it?  Especially since I found a perfect plug for $60.00. No scratches on glass or trim. Just keep me on track, Dane. I get a little blinded sometimes. lol   Besides, I already spent my money on a new motor.


* hemi02.jpg (67.72 KB, 640x427 - viewed 658 times.)
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« Reply #64 on: August 03, 2005, 11:38:24 PM »

Now that is money well spent. Now there is a steel part that we all can agree on. That is what I am going to work toward for my Yellow one.

Way to go man.
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« Reply #65 on: August 03, 2005, 11:41:54 PM »

So, who has the best price on the newly retooled Crate Hemi ?  I've seen prices in the magazines from just under 12K all the way up to 15K  That's a chunk of change for sure, but I haven't ruled this out yet  Roll Eyes
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« Reply #66 on: August 03, 2005, 11:51:08 PM »

I ordered mine from Summit last September. They had them listed for $11,999. They promised that the price wouldn't change. When they were told that their cost was going up by MP, they cancelled all existing orders. When I complained that I had been promised no price increase they let me have the second one that they receved in Feb. for their cost of $12,300. Shipping was around $200 or maybe less. One of the valve covers was dented so they orderd a new set. I asked them if I could pay the difference and get the correct black ones for my 70 and they agreed. The motor now has the correct black valve covers. The difference was $200. This motor is actually for my 70 chal convert, but I may pull it later on and replace it with my six pack motor and use the hemi in the Daytona clone.
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« Reply #67 on: August 03, 2005, 11:52:09 PM »

Wetfeetmi,
Keep us posted on your progress. Sounds like it will be your second go-round on a Daytona project. Would love to hear more.

Daytona R/T SE,
Thanks for the info. Still undecided on direction to go. I have the vega plug and it's tempting to use it because of the cost. The $ could go for a couple of the other parts in steel. You may have read that my clone will be an R/T SE version since it's already an R/T SE car.


You're welcome, Hotrod .   In case you haven't guessed by now, I'm building my Daytona clone on an original 69 RT/SE too.   The "Number Nazis" are going to hate us both   Wink
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« Reply #68 on: August 03, 2005, 11:56:30 PM »

I ordered mine from Summit last September. They had them listed for $11,999. They promised that the price wouldn't change. When they were told that their cost was going up by MP, they cancelled all existing orders. When I complained that I had been promised no price increase they let me have the second one that they receved in Feb. for their cost of $12,300. Shipping was around $200 or maybe less. One of the valve covers was dented so they orderd a new set. I asked them if I could pay the difference and get the correct black ones for my 70 and they agreed. The motor now has the correct black valve covers. The difference was $200. This motor is actually for my 70 chal convert, but I may pull it later on and replace it with my six pack motor and use the hemi in the Daytona clone.

If I could get one of the new ones for around 12K I'd probably do it, I'll probably have close to half that in my old 440 by the time I get it the way I want it, anyway.   I'll have to see how the piggy bank looks after I get the Daytona conversion done and get it painted-this ain't going to be cheap   Roll Eyes
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« Reply #69 on: August 03, 2005, 11:58:04 PM »

Hey Man, It's your car. Live it up.
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« Reply #70 on: August 04, 2005, 12:26:50 AM »

I think I have nearly $5000 in my six pack motor and that was with me finding a brand new set of nos carbs for $400 that a Phord guy had sitting around and a new six pack alum intake and original air cleaner for $300 that another guy had sitting around. I have over $1000 in the heads alone.
The hemi was ordered for my cuda originally, but after a lot of thought I realized that it would be better to install it in my chal convert since it's a non a/c car anyway. I didn't want to disassemble my 71 cuda and with the 340 4-speed it gets 17 mpg.  It's an a/c car, but I had to remove the compressor when I put the shaker hood on.
My wife beats me in the mpg department though with her 73 cuda with the 5.9 liter o/d tranny setup.


* 73cudasandy24.jpg (97.09 KB, 640x427 - viewed 621 times.)
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« Reply #71 on: August 04, 2005, 04:26:20 AM »

Anybody need a plug? I will use one of these and get rid of the rest.


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« Reply #72 on: August 04, 2005, 06:58:38 AM »

You probably should keep one for replacement glass and trim. The salvage yard that I bought mine from had 6 or 7 but they all had deep scratches in the back glass from people scraping ice with kitchen utensils. We don't get much ice and snow here so a lot of people don't own an ice scraper. The sheet metal was rust free though.
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« Reply #73 on: August 04, 2005, 07:50:50 AM »

My first clone was a '70 R/T 440 4 speed car, and I caught a little crap from purists. It is yours to do with what you please. I would like to see 1,000 clones driving all around my home town!
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« Reply #74 on: August 04, 2005, 09:06:17 AM »

hey wetfeet i would take one of those hatches.. just take it to greyhood put it under a bus and i'll get it out here. i'm serious. my clone is a real se. i got the bottom end of the 440 at a machine shop. the 906   heads are at a friends shop being polshed, ,oversized valves, roller rockers. the works mans. i want about 450hp. i got the whole sixpack setup when i bought my 68r/t came with the car.   i don't want to go anymore than that because of the air restriction of the daytona nose.
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