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Author Topic: Hard start & fuel boiling > Some interesting carb insulating data  (Read 51816 times)
Dino
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« Reply #75 on: June 21, 2015, 08:18:04 AM »

Will a half inch spacer clear the hood on a big block with an m1 intake On a 68?

That shouldn't be a problem.  You can always get a drop base for the air filter.

Got kids?  Borrow some playdough and smack it on the air cleaner lid.  Close the hood and see how much room you have left.  This works with several products like that crush foam stuff you can find at hobby stores.
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68charger440
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« Reply #76 on: July 30, 2015, 09:21:07 PM »

I HAVE THE BLOCKED CROSSOVER, AND 1/2 INCH PHENOLIC SPACER, BUT STILL ON 90 DEGREE PLUS DAYS IT STILL VAPOR LOCKS SOMETIMES ON STOP AND GO DRIVING.  Sorry, just noticed caps lock.  Anyway, what about the fuel vapor separator?  Has anyone been able to fix the vapor lock problem by adding that to the mix?  I never used one before.
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myk
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« Reply #77 on: July 30, 2015, 10:52:50 PM »

It helped my situation, but I never had much of a vapor lock problem anyway.  My car just took a couple of extra seconds to fire when it was hot...
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graybo
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« Reply #78 on: September 14, 2015, 11:53:02 AM »

OK dumb question time!!!!   Can you block the heat crossover without removing the intake?  And...can I machine (cut down) the cast intake to make room for a carb spacer? shruggy
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graybo
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« Reply #79 on: September 14, 2015, 12:02:26 PM »

OK dumb question time!!!!   Can you block the heat crossover without removing the intake?  And...can I machine (cut down) the cast intake to make room for a carb spacer? shruggy


OR...Does anyone know If I can buy and aluminum intake manifold that is lower that the factory cast intake.  1970 440  with Edelbrock 800 cfm carb.
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303 Mopar
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« Reply #80 on: September 14, 2015, 01:06:00 PM »

OK dumb question time!!!!   Can you block the heat crossover without removing the intake?  And...can I machine (cut down) the cast intake to make room for a carb spacer? shruggy


OR...Does anyone know If I can buy and aluminum intake manifold that is lower that the factory cast intake.  1970 440  with Edelbrock 800 cfm carb.

Edelbrock CH4B and Holley Street Dom intakes are the lowest profile that I know of, and I would suggest the FelPro 1215 gasket set to block the heat crossover.  Obviously you need to remove the intake to apply.
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68charger440
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« Reply #81 on: September 14, 2015, 07:08:38 PM »

 iagree The felpro 1215 is sure easier and cheaper than any other option for the crossover. 
I have an Edelbrock aftermarket air cleaner on top of my Edelbrock RPM intake and 1" spacer, so it can be done, but it sure is tight.
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b5blue
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« Reply #82 on: September 15, 2015, 04:03:12 PM »

I HAVE THE BLOCKED CROSSOVER, AND 1/2 INCH PHENOLIC SPACER, BUT STILL ON 90 DEGREE PLUS DAYS IT STILL VAPOR LOCKS SOMETIMES ON STOP AND GO DRIVING.  Sorry, just noticed caps lock.  Anyway, what about the fuel vapor separator?  Has anyone been able to fix the vapor lock problem by adding that to the mix?  I never used one before.
Vapor canister return should help it designed just for that. Per some recommendations I had drilled 1/8 holes in the heat blocking intake gaskets to allow some heat to the divorced choke on my 6BBL intake. Don't do that...when I pulled the 6BBL to install a CH4B and Proform 750 4BBL I found the holes had allowed the intake gasket to burn away to next to nothing. Despite the fact that over 5-6 years the blocking had burned away, I didn't have any vapor lock issues due to installing the return system at the same time. (The new Proform 750 has electric choke so heat is fully blocked now.) You'll need to have the return line tube on your fuel gauge sending unit in the fuel tank.   
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68charger440
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« Reply #83 on: September 15, 2015, 09:25:48 PM »

I'll keep that as an option if the bypass regulator doesn't do the trick. 
Right now I still have to get that regulator dialed in.  The oil filled gauge is jumping all over and the pressure seems to change when it warms up.  I think maybe the 5/16 return line I used is too much for the pump to keep up with? shruggy I am going to put in a 1/4 inside diameter small piece of fuel line to restrict it to see if that helps.
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b5blue
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« Reply #84 on: September 16, 2015, 03:59:36 AM »

The oil filled gauge should be replaced with non oil filled per others advice here. (I've got one for my 440 but not installed yet, about 15.00 on eBay.)  scratchchin I know your pain, it's hot down here in FL. most of the year! (The 6BBL had hot restart issues a long time before figuring out what was happening.)
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68charger440
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« Reply #85 on: September 16, 2015, 07:55:12 AM »

I will look for a different gauge.
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myk
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« Reply #86 on: September 16, 2015, 07:58:30 AM »

I'd be careful with a fuel pressure gauge, if that's what we are talking about here.  I've heard of too many instances where a less sturdy gauge failed and leaked gasoline all over a hot, running engine...
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cdr
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« Reply #87 on: September 16, 2015, 11:32:05 AM »

yes the oil filled gauge reads wrong when it gets hot,,, also with the return system at idle the fuel pressure will go up & down as the pump pumps & fuel is returning to the tank, also it needs at least 5/16 return line.
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68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
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68charger440
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« Reply #88 on: September 16, 2015, 12:39:02 PM »

I think I will order a new 3/8 steel line and use the 5/16 for the return line and then get rid of the preexisting 3/8 rubber line.
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303 Mopar
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« Reply #89 on: October 02, 2015, 04:38:18 PM »

I thought I would post some pics of my CH4B intake and Proform 750 carb swap yesterday on my 440. To keep the fuel as cool as possible, I bought the Cool Carb shield and spacer (total thickness is 3/8" made from 2 layers of aluminum and one poly insulator).  I also decided to custom build and 3/8" hard line up and over the valve cover to a 3-nipple filter (2 in, 1 out to carb and 1 out to 5/16" return line) mounted to the inner fender.  I then wrapped it all with the DEI heat shield  basically from the the fire wall to the dual feed line.  A Firecore distributor, coil and wires are next.






















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68charger440
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« Reply #90 on: October 02, 2015, 10:04:30 PM »

Looks pretty cool...pun intended. lol
Do you have a leaky heater core?
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cdr
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« Reply #91 on: October 02, 2015, 10:47:41 PM »

DMT sells rebuild kits for that heater valve.
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68 Charger 512 cid,9.7to1,Hilborn EFI,Home ported 440 source heads,small hyd roller cam,COLD A/C ,,a518 trans,Dana 60 ,4.10 gear,10.93 et,4100lbs on street tires full exhaust daily driver
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myk
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« Reply #92 on: October 03, 2015, 03:15:59 AM »

I thought I would post some pics of my CH4B intake and Proform 750 carb swap yesterday on my 440. To keep the fuel as cool as possible, I bought the Cool Carb shield and spacer (total thickness is 3/8" made from 2 layers of aluminum and one poly insulator).  I also decided to custom build and 3/8" hard line up and over the valve cover to a 3-nipple filter (2 in, 1 out to carb and 1 out to 5/16" return line) mounted to the inner fender.  I then wrapped it all with the DEI heat shield  basically from the the fire wall to the dual feed line.  A Firecore distributor, coil and wires are next.
[/quote

What a coink-y-dink; I'm planning a CH4B swap as well.  Are there any tricks to it?  Is it really just prying the old manifold off and then slapping the new one on?  I hope we'll feel the difference with the CH4B...
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303 Mopar
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« Reply #93 on: October 05, 2015, 08:10:13 AM »

I thought I would post some pics of my CH4B intake and Proform 750 carb swap yesterday on my 440. To keep the fuel as cool as possible, I bought the Cool Carb shield and spacer (total thickness is 3/8" made from 2 layers of aluminum and one poly insulator).  I also decided to custom build and 3/8" hard line up and over the valve cover to a 3-nipple filter (2 in, 1 out to carb and 1 out to 5/16" return line) mounted to the inner fender.  I then wrapped it all with the DEI heat shield  basically from the the fire wall to the dual feed line.  A Firecore distributor, coil and wires are next.
[/quote

What a coink-y-dink; I'm planning a CH4B swap as well.  Are there any tricks to it?  Is it really just prying the old manifold off and then slapping the new one on?  I hope we'll feel the difference with the CH4B...

The manifold was a pretty straight forward swap with a little rubber mallet persuasion. My old valley pan did not have the heat cross over blocked, nor ANY gaskets or sealant.  I did over look a hole in the manifold on the passenger side that initially caused a vacuum leak, so be sure to plug it.  I test drove the car around and it made a big difference in quickness, power on the top end and even exhaust sound.  Just waiting for the Firecore distributor (they sent me one for a 383) and then I will post more pics.  Good luck with your install!
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AKcharger
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« Reply #94 on: June 24, 2016, 07:11:12 AM »

I thought I would post some pics of my CH4B intake and Proform 750 carb swap yesterday on my 440. To keep the fuel as cool as possible, I bought the Cool Carb shield and spacer (total thickness is 3/8" made from 2 layers of aluminum and one poly insulator).  I also decided to custom build and 3/8" hard line up and over the valve cover to a 3-nipple filter (2 in, 1 out to carb and 1 out to 5/16" return line) mounted to the inner fender.  I then wrapped it all with the DEI heat shield  basically from the the fire wall to the dual feed line.  A Firecore distributor, coil and wires are next.

And did it all work???  popcrn
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303 Mopar
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« Reply #95 on: June 24, 2016, 09:49:40 AM »

I thought I would post some pics of my CH4B intake and Proform 750 carb swap yesterday on my 440. To keep the fuel as cool as possible, I bought the Cool Carb shield and spacer (total thickness is 3/8" made from 2 layers of aluminum and one poly insulator).  I also decided to custom build and 3/8" hard line up and over the valve cover to a 3-nipple filter (2 in, 1 out to carb and 1 out to 5/16" return line) mounted to the inner fender.  I then wrapped it all with the DEI heat shield  basically from the the fire wall to the dual feed line.  A Firecore distributor, coil and wires are next.

And did it all work???  popcrn

Sorry I never did post the updates.  Yes, this did fix my fuel issues.  I do not have any vapor lock issues, and measured the carb to be about 20 degrees (15%) cooler with the Cool Carb spacer.  The CH4B is a big improvement over the Eddy Performer intake, and I highly recommend the Proform carb which is very easy to adjust and is the best bang for your buck.
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AKcharger
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« Reply #96 on: November 29, 2016, 09:08:44 PM »

I too did the new intake gasket to block of the heat risers, aluminum intake and the cool carb spacers....seems to be working well!
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« Reply #97 on: June 26, 2017, 01:38:06 PM »

When installing the Fel-Pro 1215 is gasket sealant recommended and if so what type?
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Dino
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« Reply #98 on: June 26, 2017, 01:39:45 PM »

When installing the Fel-Pro 1215 is gasket sealant recommended and if so what type?

Permatex Ultra Copper. I apply a thin bead all around and smooth it out with my finger to get a thin even coat. Apply and snug the bolts down but don't torque them until the next day.
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« Reply #99 on: July 05, 2017, 12:30:30 PM »

Has anyone had trouble using the 1215 gasket with the stock intake manifold? It is a thicker gasket and the bolts are not going in right. The intake is now a little higher so that the bolts that go in at an angle will not start.
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