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refinishing bolts

Started by yeahitsgotahemi!, January 23, 2009, 12:14:10 AM

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yeahitsgotahemi!

I just wanted to get some input on what people did as far as putting a finish on old bolts. Of course, the various fender bolts and stuff just got some body color, but what about the other stuff. I have tons of rust dirty suspension hardware that needs to be cleaned up and refinished. Lately, I've been using POR-15 on various old nuts/bolts ect. Is there something better, preferably something that can be done at home?

Thanks everybody!
"I don't advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, they just always worked for me"  - Hunter S. Thompson

gasoline_24

For the black phosphate bolts and nuts I used the eastwood metal blackening kit with pretty good success.  For the zinc and cad stuff I used Dawson Bros.  They did a great job.

Back N Black

I usually clean using a wire wheel,then paint the appropriate color. if they were bare metal, i clear coat to prevent rust.

Finn

I second the wire wheel. I shot mine with black self etching primer afterwards since that stuff holds up very well and doesnt flake or chip off when you go to put them on.
Ive also heard of people putting them in rock tumblers :shruggy:. Not sure what solution goes in with them but the end results looked good.
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

Dodge Don

Quote from: Finn on January 23, 2009, 01:58:01 PM
I second the wire wheel. I shot mine with black self etching primer afterwards since that stuff holds up very well and doesnt flake or chip off when you go to put them on.
Ive also heard of people putting them in rock tumblers :shruggy:. Not sure what solution goes in with them but the end results looked good.

I have a pair of parts tumblers from Eastwood, seemed like a good idea at the time but honestly it was a waste of time. I use my bench grinder with a wire wheel.

Finn

Good to know, I was thinking of picking on up but it sounds like I should stick to the wire wheel. Thanks!
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

69hemi

I have a rack for my media blaster to hold all sizes of nuts & bolts so they go in there then over to the fine wire wheel for a quick polish then some pant or clear.  The reason for the blast first is it strips off the rust/gunk way faster and you don't have to worry about launching that bolt off the wire wheel into the family jewells so much.  I also have an Eastwood vibrator polisher and it works great for stainless items.  Use the brown media and put your small stainless stuff in there for a couple of hours and it comes out great!
http://www.69hemi.com
1969 Hemi R/T Charger
1969 440 GTX
1965 Hemi A/FX Plymouth
1964 Hemi Superstock Dodge
02 Ram
95 Ram

Finn

What would be some examples of small stainless? I'm trying to think of parts from my 68 and I'm drawing blanks...
1968 Dodge Charger 440, EFI, AirRide suspension
1970 Dodge Challenger RT/SE 383 magnum
1963 Plymouth Savoy 225 with a 3 on the tree.
2002 Dodge Ram 5.9L 360
2014 Dodge Dart 2.4L

yeahitsgotahemi!

Thanks for the replys. Yeah, as far as the tumbler goes, I bought a harbour frieght one, and was not very happy with it. Instead the bolts go straight to the blast cabinent.
I haven't had any luck with spray bombing bolts. The paint always comes off when I install the bolts. The POR 15 works well, very chip and scratch resistant, but its a tedious process painting them by hand.
I like the eastwood blackening kit idea. I looked it up and its simply a parkerizing finish. The stuff is commonly used as a finish on guns and can be bought at a gun store. I guess the trick is to oil the part after parkerizing to keep it from corroding agian.
 
"I don't advocate drugs, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone, they just always worked for me"  - Hunter S. Thompson

runningman

I have been using Eastwood's clear for bare metal after I blacken them, I don't have my car on the road yet so not sure how it holds up though....

bordin34

I have an idea for blackening don't know how well it would work. Just dip the bolt in used motor oil then take a torch to it.  :shruggy:

1973 SE Brougham Black 4̶0̶0̶  440 Auto.
1967 Coronet Black 440 Auto
1974 SE Brougham Blue 318 Auto- Sold to a guy in Croatia
1974 Valiant Green 318 Auto - Sold to a guy in Louisiana
Mahwah,NJ

Hemidoug

Quote from: gasoline_24 on January 23, 2009, 12:44:00 AM
For the black phosphate bolts and nuts I used the eastwood metal blackening kit with pretty good success.  For the zinc and cad stuff I used Dawson Bros.  They did a great job.
Do you have any contact info on them? I'm looking to get some stuff done.
71 R/T 440 6pak, 4spd Mr Norms GSD

gtx6970

Actually, I will be sending several pieces in the morning to Neil at  http://www.dynamicrenovation.net/

hemi-hampton

Coincedence, I was just talking to these guys a couple of hours ago at that Detroit area Mopar show & discussing the Services. They never mentioned any nut or bolt replating or refinishing & I did not know? LEON.

68pplcharger

Is Dynamic Renovation resonably priced?

Chatt69chgr

What I do to blacken bolts is to first clean them up using my drill and a wire brush attachment.  It's a tedious process and the blast cabinet would probably be a better way of doing this.  Then I wash the bolt with soap water and blow it dry with the air compressor.  Next, I degrease the part using laquer thinner.  Then I blacken the bolt using gun blueing I get at Walmart.  Next, I use some 0000 steel wool and soap water to clean the part off and get the whiteish looking haze off and finally I put some motor oil on the part.  I suppose you could spray the bolt with a clear laquer too.  Obviously not as good as sending the part out to a professional place but works pretty good for the garage shop.

BlueSS454

I've been sandblasting bolts and repainting them.  The biggest problem is after they're dired and you install them, they tend to get marks on them from whatever took used to torque em down.  I'm glad to see there has been some success with the Eastwood Metal Blackening system.  I've been considering trying it out.
Tom Rightler