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lets build a dragster!

Started by 68chargerboy, September 17, 2009, 08:17:48 PM

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68chargerboy

so this is for a 66 monaco app, yes a monaco.  im turning this boat into a dragster because no one else does and i want sumting different.  so what i am asking from you guys is what would you do? ive made a few motors, trannys, and rear ends now and its time i get serious.  so post up some suggestions for anything from weight savers to cam grinds.  this is what i have as of now laying in the garage.  1968 440 block ready to go 40 over bore.  forged crank for it and the original heads.  a 727 with a 2500 stall convertor, and a 8 3/4 locker with 410's.  i am not too sure weather or not to do another stroker build or just put a blower on it, who knows maybe both? i want to here your guys's thoughts!!! send em at me!!!

ill do polls after i get some feed back as to what YOU guys decide. and i build this car from what you guys say.  thought this might be fun and probably be able to make a better car then if i just went with all my one sided opinions lol

thanks in advance

Zach

elacruze

How about good rods and pistons, a cam with lots of exhaust flow, and a 500hp nitrous kit? You'll save lots of time! :icon_smile_question:
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

68X426

The forum will have lots of ideas. This should be a great topic.  :popcrn:

One word: Dana. Must have a Dana rear end.

Second: get Danica to drive it. Best possible way to save weight.  :icon_smile_tongue:


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my73charger

Is this strictly a drag car?  How fast do you want to go?  What is your budget?  If this is strictly a drag car, yank out the heater, heater core, front seats (add racing seats with 5 point harness) rear seat, inner fenders (if possible), sound deadener, carpet, inside bumper brackets, exhaust pipes.  Will you be caging the car?  Can you get a fiberglass hood and fenders?  Does it have power steering?  Think about converting to manual.  I would also yank the gas tank and convert to a fuel cell.  Put the battery in the trunk and add a kill switch.  I think I would go with at least a 3000-3500 (maybe more) stall converter depending on your power band.  Add a line lock on your brake system.  Wanna launch it real hard?  Add a transbrake.  This should be a good start.   :icon_smile_big:

68chargerboy

Quote from: 68X426 on September 18, 2009, 01:15:48 AM
The forum will have lots of ideas. This should be a great topic.  :popcrn:

One word: Dana. Must have a Dana rear end.

Second: get Danica to drive it. Best possible way to save weight.  :icon_smile_tongue:
haha this is going to be a mans machine! no females aloud to drive lol
Quote from: my73charger on September 18, 2009, 08:01:48 AM
Is this strictly a drag car?  How fast do you want to go?  What is your budget?  If this is strictly a drag car, yank out the heater, heater core, front seats (add racing seats with 5 point harness) rear seat, inner fenders (if possible), sound deadener, carpet, inside bumper brackets, exhaust pipes.  Will you be caging the car?  Can you get a fiberglass hood and fenders?  Does it have power steering?  Think about converting to manual.  I would also yank the gas tank and convert to a fuel cell.  Put the battery in the trunk and add a kill switch.  I think I would go with at least a 3000-3500 (maybe more) stall converter depending on your power band.  Add a line lock on your brake system.  Wanna launch it real hard?  Add a transbrake.  This should be a good start.   :icon_smile_big:
already have everything you said on and done  :coolgleamA:.  except for the cage thats this winters project.  it is going to be 90% drag and 10% cruise night car.  the show i go to is about a 10 minute drive on a bad day and only once a week :)


my73charger

Wow you have a good start.  Can you afford to buy some aluminum heads and have them worked over?  Buy good forged pistons and decent rods.  I would also go with an MSD 6AL and buy a decent tach with a shift light.  What shifter will you be using?

68chargerboy

Quote from: my73charger on September 18, 2009, 10:17:17 AM
Wow you have a good start.  Can you afford to buy some aluminum heads and have them worked over?  Buy good forged pistons and decent rods.  I would also go with an MSD 6AL and buy a decent tach with a shift light.  What shifter will you be using?
i can afford a set of heads and my buddy owns a machine shop that has a flow bench so i can get them worked over for nuthin. also already have the msd 6al and also have tach and shift light. as far as the shifter goes no too sure what i am going to use yet what would you suggest? and also as for good rods/pistons r u recomending i stay N/A or stroke it or stay a 440?

thanks

Zach

my73charger

I have a B&M Star Shifter.  It is a good all around street and strip shifter.  It has the rachet setting so you can hit your shifts.  Are you going with a reverse manual valve body?  Don't know how it would work with that.  I would stroke it for sure.  Just don't buy a cast or hypereutectic piston.  I had a friend buy the Keith Black hypereutectic pistons and they didn't last to long before one came apart on him at the track.

68chargerboy

Quote from: my73charger on September 18, 2009, 10:37:18 AM
I have a B&M Star Shifter.  It is a good all around street and strip shifter.  It has the rachet setting so you can hit your shifts.  Are you going with a reverse manual valve body?  Don't know how it would work with that.  I would stroke it for sure.  Just don't buy a cast or hypereutectic piston.  I had a friend buy the Keith Black hypereutectic pistons and they didn't last to long before one came apart on him at the track.

thanks for the advice on the pistons.  what do u think a 496 or what? ill look into that shifter too.  as for the valve body im not to sure im thinking of possibly putting one in but how do these 727's hold up? i have my doubts but i will never drive anything unless its a mopar even have the tattoo to prove it lol.  also im goin to do this build section by section for example, build frame, then rearend, then trans, etc.  doesent have to be in that order but thats my plan so im not all over the place. however the trans and weight reduction is a good place to start.

Blown70

727 can take as much as you want to spend..... average will take upto I would say 600.... there after you will be spending a ton in better internals for it.... if yoiu are going to make a ton of power, I may suggest a powerglide........just my opinion, but again you willl be spending some $$ on that too.

68chargerboy

who sells the kits to convert it to a powerglide?

lisiecki1

you should be able to source everything you'll need for a powerglide through summit or jegs.
Remember the average response time to a 911 call is over 4 minutes.

The average response time of a 357 magnum is 1400 FPS.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52527.0.html

68chargerboy

i have 3 727's a 67,68, and 69.  so i kind of want to use one of them so i can get some more space lol.  has anyone used a manual valve body or brake in their 727?

Blown70

Quote from: 68chargerboy on September 18, 2009, 02:35:17 PM
i have 3 727's a 67,68, and 69.  so i kind of want to use one of them so i can get some more space lol.  has anyone used a manual valve body or brake in their 727?

John_knukel (spelling?)  and RD are very good resources for 727 info... I have one of Jamey (RD's) trannys 

68chargerboy

ill have to look into those.  thanks!

lisiecki1

i built my own manual valve body with a stage 3 kit......cheetah makes a good reverse manual valve body also, i believe they have some that are set up for transbrakes also.
Remember the average response time to a 911 call is over 4 minutes.

The average response time of a 357 magnum is 1400 FPS.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,52527.0.html

greenpigs

 Isn't a transbrake a bit overkill and not needed just yet. What about the front bumper bracket? The chargers is HEAVY.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

elacruze

Quote from: greenpigs on September 20, 2009, 10:29:16 AM
Isn't a transbrake a bit overkill and not needed just yet. What about the front bumper bracket? The chargers is HEAVY.

If it's all too heavy, and this is a track car, why not just lose them altogether?
1968 505" EFI 4-speed
1968 D200 Camper Special, 318/2bbl/4spd/4.10
---
Torque converters are for construction equipment.

68chargerboy

i kind of want the outside to look like a complete car, thats why im trying to make a fiberglass set

68chargerboy

so after a long break and adding things up a new idea has popped into my head.  i think this would be awesome, cheaper then the original plan, and as far as i know i would be the first to ever do this in a c body.  two words VIPER SWAP.  for the price i can find these engines and transmissions for i would be able to save a TON of money.  this would also save me a good 100+ pounds off of the front end, give me a very reliable 600hp and allow me to drive this anywhere and everywhere without having to worry about it.  also has anyone seen one of these babies in a c-body??? so what do you guys think? im still looking for some info on these motors so any info you guys may have any it would be much appreciated. 

thanks   :cheers:

Zach

greenpigs

  I would think it would take some fabrication skills to pull off correctly. For the price you could build a NICE 500 wedge and have no issues. For a 90% drag car I wouldn't bother with the Viper mill unless you like challenges. Glad to hear you haven't given up as it's been a bit since you posted about this.
1969 Charger RT


Living Chevy free

Blown70

Are you speaking of a VIPER or truck  V-10.  A viper engine with tranny is still a relativly good chunk of $$ and need fuel system and Engine control electronics.... so to me this depends on your terms of "cheap"  or what price you can get on these parts.  :shruggy:

I HUGE "think" someone did this to a New yorker.... I guess I dont remember becasue really was not my cup o tea.  But your time and $$ to do what you want with.

I personally I would stick with your first plan......

Tom

LeadfootBob

There's a '67 Fury in Finland with a twin turbo wedge mill in it, into the eights IIRC. SICK car  :o
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68chargerboy

Quote from: Blown70 on November 09, 2009, 11:33:04 AM
Are you speaking of a VIPER or truck  V-10.  A viper engine with tranny is still a relativly good chunk of $$ and need fuel system and Engine control electronics.... so to me this depends on your terms of "cheap"  or what price you can get on these parts.  :shruggy:

I HUGE "think" someone did this to a New yorker.... I guess I dont remember becasue really was not my cup o tea.  But your time and $$ to do what you want with.

I personally I would stick with your first plan......

Tom
its a real "viper" motor and it comes with all electronics/wiring however i do need a fuel pump,  i get it all for 8k.  so do you think i could still build a stroker with 600+hp for the same price?  you guys got me scared when we started talking about my blocking splitting in half around that hp.  also the viper motor weighs a lot less then a 440 block so i was thinking that would be another benefit to drop a good 100+ pounds off of the front end.  gove me some input as to what your all thinking.

thanks

Zach

motorcitydak

I know its relatively not thought of but what about de-stroking it? If you can find the crank and turn the 440 into a 377 and you can wind that thing up to 9-10.000 and throw a pair or turbo's on it. Get a good cam for it and a custom blow thru carb.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/destroked-400-a-113759.html

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