What size car trailer for a 2nd Gen??

[AKcharger]

Quick question, what is the best size enclosed trailer to haul your car around in? To be honest I don't even know standard sizes. Anthing special to look for or "must have" when purchasing?

I'm little over a year out from retirement (I'm really going to do it this time) and plan on buying a Ram 2500  Diesel and enclosed trailer to haul my '70 back up here to Alaska...want to get smart on trailers

[Charger-Bodie]

Quick question, what is the best size enclosed trailer to haul your car around in? To be honest I don't even know standard sizes. Anthing special to look for or "must have" when purchasing?

I'm little over a year out from retirement (I'm really going to do it this time) and plan on buying a Ram 2500  Diesel and enclosed trailer to haul my '70 back up here to Alaska...want to get smart on trailers

I dont own one,but Ive used one to haul my 68. It was a 28 foot,and had the side door so you can open the drivers door. That is what I will go for when I buy one.

[AKcharger]

28 foot huh? Sounds kind of big but considering I plan on dragging back a bunch of parts, it may be just right.

[69bronzeT5]

Which way you plan on going when you head back with the Charger?

[suntech]

What ever you do, do NOT get one that you will find to small in a year

Dont worry about a few feet extra.........it is all behind you!

[AKcharger]

Which way you plan on going when you head back with the Charger?

Carlise PA-Wichita KS-Calgery-Edmenton-then up the ALCAN. I expect trip in Mar 2011

..Thanks for thetrip Suntech...I'm with ya' I plan for the trailer to also be my "storage garage" in the winter so want the car to be comfy!

[aussiemuscle]

28 foot huh? Sounds kind of big.

don't they have caravans that big? 

[69bronzeT5]

Carlise PA-Wichita KS-Calgery-Edmenton-then up the ALCAN. I expect trip in Mar 2011

Damn, you should come through B.C!

[Troy]

Considering the car is nearly 18' long, a 20' trailer is really almost too short - no room to adjust the position for weight or to easily get to the tie downs. I had a 22' once and it was still tight. A 24' seems about right for many people. If you want to install cabinets in front or haul a 4 wheeler or golf cart to shows then add another 4'-6'. Make sure you get the axles upgraded to 5,000 pounds (each) since the trailer will weigh 3,500 or more and a big block Charger is close to 4,000. Once you add some parts and tools you're pushing close to the 10,000 pound limit and have blown right past the 7,000 pound limit for most standard setups (3,500 pound axles). Make sure you have trailer brakes on both axles (required in some states but not others so you have to check the manufacturer) and a break away kit. I'd also invest in a weight distributing/anti-sway hitch. Mine was expensive but there's a world of difference towing with it. I never used one on the dually but it has a long wheelbase and outweighs the trailer.

A new tip I just learned... make sure it has good radials with a high load rating. Many trailers come stock with cheap bias ply tires which tend to fall apart.

Troy

[AKcharger]

....Didn't think about axles! See that's why I like this site!

[moparstuart]

Which way you plan on going when you head back with the Charger?

Carlise PA-Wichita KS-Calgery-Edmenton-then up the ALCAN. I expect trip in Mar 2011

..Thanks for thetrip Suntech...I'm with ya' I plan for the trailer to also be my "storage garage" in the winter so want the car to be comfy!

stop and say HI in kansas city  on the way to wichita      24 footer fits my birdible perfect .

[Aero426]

I have a 24 footer with a Superbird in it.  I have no cabinets and there is plenty of room in the front.  Even with cabinets, I'd still be OK.   I'd recommend a side door and get 6000 ib axles and a good trailer brake package.   Some cheaper trailers have 3500 lb axles which with a heavy car will max out the trailer.   The longer trailer you get, the more room you need to jockey it around too.   

[Chatt69chgr]

I hauled my 69 home on a 16 ft flatbed trailer and the rear of the car stuck out over the back.  The rear wheels sat right on the point of the ducktail with the front of the car a foot or so away from the front of the trailer.  At a minimum, a 18 ft would be preferred.  Need dual axles and trailer brakes.  I like the recommendations for load equalizing hitch and radial tires on the trailer.  An aluminum trailer can reduce the weight considerably but at twice the cost of the trailer.  They make deflectors that fit on the front of the trailer to keep rocks from flying up and hitting your car.  And built-in tie down points on the bed of the trailer make chaining down the car much easier.

[694spdRT]

A 24' enclosed trailer is what we use. We added a side door on the driver side a couple years ago. Your cummins won't even know it is there power wise. I get about 14mpg loaded with my Dodge 2500.

Like Troy mentioned, if you want a golf cart or ATV, then you will need more room in front than a 24' offers. With our luggage, tools, tents, blah, blah....there is not much room left in front of the car. You could probably fit a scooter in there. Most motel parking lots can be a pain with 24' so I doubt the longer ones make it any easier. Plan ahead in that regard.

If I were getting another one it would be a 5th wheel setup and not a bumper hitch.

BTW: Again like Troy mentioned, we blew an original tire off coming back from Monster Mopar 2 years in a row...so check those tires out.

[69rtse4spd]

Got a 5th. wheel trailer, 32-33 foot if I remember right. Just put 2 new 7000 axles with brakes on both of them & 10-ply tires.   Do not use the factory tires that come on most of the trailers, one good size pot hole & it will be flat. Have thought about upgrading to an enclosed trailer, but do not want to spend the money right know. Can not stress enough what others have said about heaver axles & brakes on one or both axles. Good tires heavy axles & one or more spears. Also try to pick a trailer rim bolt pattern the same as the truck your pulling it with.

[Troy]

If you're springing for accessories and you use the trailer often - it's helpful to have lights in the floor so you can see what you're doing when securing the car. Make sure you have good locks (and hinges) too. A good brake controller inside the truck (I use a Tekonsha Prodigy) really does make a difference. A door in the side is helpful so you can actually get out of the car after driving it in - otherwise a winch so you don't even have to deal with it. If you get a door make sure your inner fender wells aren't so high that the block the car door or the whole thing is pointless. I've seen guys put block of wood on the floor to get the car up high enough to clear so don't rule it out if you find a nice used trailer.

If money is an issue then spend it on the safety items mentioned above instead of "neat" but mostly useless doodads.

Troy

[R2]

24' should be fine,,,,,i have this size,,,with front cabinets,,,,workbench,,etc,,,,
Put a winch in it,,,,,you wont regret it....
Unless you need to have a ATV,,,etc,,in front of the car,,,,the 24' should be ok....re-sale value is also good for this size trailer.

[alcusswhen]

I use a 30' 5th wheel and I'll never go back to a bumper trailer. And if you get the chance to pull and "back" both kinds you'll understand why.

[AKcharger]

A 5th wheel sounds neat...but I suspect the price goes up considerably?

[whitehatspecial]

20' will work fine. 22 or 24' will give you more room for other stuff, like parts, luggage or a porto-potty.

[69 OUR/TEA]

Back in Sept I was in the market for an enclosed trailor,did alot of research,talking to people who had them,etc.First things I was told was do not get a 20' ,and the 3,500lb axles!A 20 footer  puts the car almost right up to the front wall with little room left over,and with the 3500lb axles the trailer could be weighing in at 3500-3900lbs therefore the car you can put in can only be 3,100-3,500lbs.
I ended up buying an American Hauler,24' V-nose(perfect extra little room for the winch),5,000lb axles,and has the side escape door.When going from the 3500lb to 5000lb axles,it goes from 10'' 5 lug rims to 12'' 6 lug rims.As for my side door,I heard the same things about the fender well being high enough where your door is going to hit it.Well,with this brand I bought the fender well is only 9 1/2'' off the floor which is plenty of room for your charger door,and alot of other models, to open(they measure around 12-13'' and up depending on your car).I then added a Superwinch S5000 and made a hitch plate mounted to the floor so it is removable.
Lastly,this is for your preference,was advised not to get white as the staining from the aluminum bleeding down the sides is very hard to get off,and black absorbs alot of heat and makes the inside get quite hotter than white or other colors.By luck,the place I got mine had them in a pewter color which matches my truck very well.The dry weight of mine is 3350lbs,GVW is 9900,payload cap is 6640.
Another perk of an enclosed is you gain another garage space!!!Good luck with your purchase.

[AKcharger]

Good tips sir...how much should I expect to pay for somthing like that?

[resq302]

I fit my 69 charger nicely into our 24' enclosed trailer

[DodgeChargerNeeded]

A friend of mine hauled one of my Chargers in a 24' Enclosed Trailer and it worked good.

[69 OUR/TEA]

The one I described that I bought goes for around $7,500.00,but a good friend of mine does alot of business with the dealer and got it for me for $6,800.00.Thought that was a real good price for a brand new trailor so went with it.

[Lifsgrt]

I have a 20' enclosed trailer, I'll second R2's comment - you'll be happier with at least a 24' trailer. 20' works, but it's tight.  You'll have the truck to pull more, you won't be sorry if you go with a 24' or larger.  If you go with a bumper pull, I highly recommend a weight distribution hitch with anti-sway bars.  That makes an incredible difference.

[R2]

You can get a 24',,,,new,,,,anywhere from 5K and up,,,eg 9K,,,depends on how fancy you want it.  I would seriously look for a used trailer,,,lots of good deals out there,,,,and often alot of the "upgrades" (winch, cabinets, lights, flooring,etc),,,have been installed by the previous owner....
I like my 24',,,and believe it or not,,,,i wouldnt want anything more than that,,,
Doug

ps, hey Jerry... 

[AKcharger]

One additional question, what size wheels do trailers have?

[AKcharger]

14's or 15's?

[R2]

Most are 15",,,,some are 16",,,,
dont think i have seen any 14"..........

[bakerhillpins]

Going to wake up an older thread rather than start up a new one.




Looks like I am going to be buying a new 8.5 x 24' 9900# enclosed trailer for the Charger. After a year and a half of seriously watching craigslist/etc I don't really see the point in buying used as it averages in at a 1k savings from one off the lot new. Which would then have new tires and a warranty and not come pre soiled. This then begs the question of ordering a trailer (and the up charge of doing so). If I were to do so I was thinking of only a few options but wanted to bounce "what options you would get" off the forum.

I'm looking to pick up a Sure-track STRCH Pro Series Round Top Car Hauler. Click on "more" at the bottom of the features list to see the complete list of standard features.

9900# 2 spring axles (yes, spring. comments welcome)

What would you add? I've been considering:
- Escape door
- Roof Ventilation
- rear jacks/stabilizers
- bar locks on standard RV style doors

Should I worry about roof ventilation? It's a single membrane roof and I get nervous punching a hole or 2 in it? What's the chance it's just going to leak in the future?
Do I need to get measurements to tell them where to put the escape door? Would a winch be a better solution rather than a door?

Thanks all!

[69rtse4spd]

Keep the escape door, ask them how much to put the winch mounting points in. You can always put the winch in later, I like springs, never had one break yet, rubber torsion axels wear out over time, have to replace whole axel I think when needed. I-69 trailer place is 15 min. away from me, they sell Sure Track, if you want can get Jim's number for you, he knows everything about trailers, only guy I have been dealing with for years, great guy.   

[bakerhillpins]

Keep the escape door, ask them how much to put the winch mounting points in. You can always put the winch in later, I like springs, never had one break yet, rubber torsion axels wear out over time, have to replace whole axel I think when needed. I-69 trailer place is 15 min. away from me, they sell Sure Track, if you want can get Jim's number for you, he knows everything about trailers, only guy I have been dealing with for years, great guy.   

Yes, torsion need to be replaced as a complete unit. Springs can be repaired.

Winch plates are listed as ~$114.  If it's just under the flooring it seems silly to add this, but if it's welded into the frame that's different.

I suppose it depends on where you are. I'm in NH so if you are too far off I would probably just be wasting his time unless he could get it to me somehow?

[69rtse4spd]

IND., you can bring up their web site, (I-69 trailer center) they do deliver. For 114.00 I would do it, but only if it is welded to the frame, which it should be, but ask. Here is their toll free number-1-866-582-6900, ask for Jim. 

[6pkrtse]

I have a 28' enclosed to hall my Chargers, Road Runner & Challenger in. I have a steel 6' bench on the left front wall & enough room on the right front for my golf cart. I would never go any smaller than that. It's nice to have a little bigger to haul more than just the car when needed.

[bakerhillpins]

I have a 28' enclosed to hall my Chargers, Road Runner & Challenger in. I have a steel 6' bench on the left front wall & enough room on the right front for my golf cart. I would never go any smaller than that. It's nice to have a little bigger to haul more than just the car when needed.

28' is bigger than I need and probably want to have to deal with. 22' is probably perfect but I wonder if it's worth the small savings in cost and room. (looks like about $160) Not sure if I will ever want cabinets.

IND., you can bring up their web site, (I-69 trailer center) they do deliver. For 114.00 I would do it, but only if it is welded to the frame, which it should be, but ask. Here is their toll free number-1-866-582-6900, ask for Jim. 

The winch plate is welded in. Turns out it's $75.  I wonder how they would deliver that from IN to NH. Even if they just drop shipped from the factory (I'm going to have to order) any kind of delivery issues would probably be a hassle to deal with.

[bakerhillpins]

Anyone comment on escape door size:

Is 4'x4' sufficient?
Do I need to worry about how high off the interior wheelhouse the door sits?

Should I pay up the $50 for bar locks on the side and escape door?

Thanks

[6pkrtse]

They are nice to have. To me the escape door is just another point of entry for thieves though. When loading I always pull as far to the right as possible. These leaves just enough room to squeeze in & out. If the thieves want it bad enough, they will take what they want anyway. My buddy stored his trailer at a self storage lot protected by security camera's and key card locked gates. The thieves cut through the chain link fence behind his trailer & used a cordless sawzall and cut a big hole in the side of the trailer at the rear & took everything that fit thru that hole. They didn't cut the locks because up near the front camera's would have caught them going thru the man door.

[bakerhillpins]

I was planning on adding bar locks to both the standard RV door but regardless, you are correct. If they want it bad enough it's going to leave. 

[gtx6970]

For me a 24' is more then enough.  Ive used a 20' and its to small for a B body IMO.  And the longer it is, the more limited where you can park it or backing it up.
Friend of mine has a  22', and he has to make a really sharp 90 degree turn with very limited space across the street for the truck to swing out to back it in his driveway. Any longer and he couldnt do it.

Add the winch plate and forget about the side access door. Yes add the door bars to any door

Add a external plug and 110 lighting inside and out. Makes it nice when its sitting in the driveway and you want to work inside or beside it .

5k  or 5500 lb axles and radial tires are a must. Changing wheel bearings along side the road is not a fun job

[bakerhillpins]

For me a 24' is more then enough.  Ive used a 20' and its to small for a B body IMO.  And the longer it is, the more limited where you can park it or backing it up.
Friend of mine has a  22', and he has to make a really sharp 90 degree turn with very limited space across the street for the truck to swing out to back it in his driveway. Any longer and he couldnt do it.

Add the winch plate and forget about the side access door. Yes add the door bars to any door

Add a external plug and 110 lighting inside and out. Makes it nice when its sitting in the driveway and you want to work inside or beside it .

5k  or 5500 lb axles and radial tires are a must. Changing wheel bearings along side the road is not a fun job

To clarify your point for my understanding. Are you saying that 24 is essentially overkill and 22 is the best OR...  24 is the way to go unless you have space issues and then don't go less than 22?

So you feel a winch is a better solution overall? Not really having any experience with door vs winch (or either individually for that matter) if a winch is a better choice it's probably going to save me some $$ as the door is $500.  It would seem the only advantage a door has over a winch is it's faster (drive it in). 

Yea, I'm going with 10k.

[Troy]

I'm lazy and in a hurry most of the time so no way am I going to deal with the hassle and time of winching a car - as long as it's actually driveable! I tow inoperable cars more often than not so I would install a winch but only use it when I had to. Most enclosed trailers have a pretty shallow ramp so you can usually push a "roller" on fairly easily. I can get in and out of a car without a side door but the door would come in handy. If you're ever working on the car inside the trailer (like trying to get it started) then the door is even handier!

The only enclosed I have ever owned was 22'. It felt reasonably short behind a 1 ton dually. Very maneuverable! However, it was extended height and had a concession type door (plus the bracing required for the door) so it tipped the scales at 4,800 pounds and felt like pulling a barn down the road with all the wind resistance. A 24' is about the most common and I doubt prices vary much. It gives enough room to position the car safely and have storage space for extra stuff (popup tents, cleaning supplies, spares, etc.). Much longer and the trailer empty weight can become an issue (ie you can no longer carry a fully loaded big block B-body and some tools without exceeding the axle limit).

Most garages are 20' so think about how much space you have between the garage door and the front wall. A 22' only gives you an extra 12" at each end. If your winch sits on the floor, make sure you don't need to roll the car so far forward that you have to worry about mashing the valance on it.

Troy

[NHCharger]

You need a 24 footer. Otherwise you won't have enough space in the trailer to haul your 69 plus all the parts for your next project car home from Carlisle 

[bakerhillpins]

You need a 24 footer. Otherwise you won't have enough space in the trailer to haul your 69 plus all the parts for your next project car home from Carlisle 

LOL... Should I stick with Silver or pay up to get that Blue?

Any opinions on the rear drop down stabilizers/jacks?

[NHCharger]

How much extra for the blue?
Mine doesn't have the drop down stabilizers in the back.
I'm eventually going to have a side door cut in. I'm going to be 60 next year so climbing in and out of the car window in the trailer isn't as fun as it use to be. When I trailer the car a long distance I always make sure it's centered in the trailer so there is not much room to squeeze out the car door

[gtx6970]

For me a 24' is more then enough.  Ive used a 20' and its to small for a B body IMO.  And the longer it is, the more limited where you can park it or backing it up.
Friend of mine has a  22', and he has to make a really sharp 90 degree turn with very limited space across the street for the truck to swing out to back it in his driveway. Any longer and he couldnt do it.

Add the winch plate and forget about the side access door. Yes add the door bars to any door

Add a external plug and 110 lighting inside and out. Makes it nice when its sitting in the driveway and you want to work inside or beside it .

5k  or 5500 lb axles and radial tires are a must. Changing wheel bearings along side the road is not a fun job

To clarify your point for my understanding. Are you saying that 24 is essentially overkill and 22 is the best OR...  24 is the way to go unless you have space issues and then don't go less than 22?

So you feel a winch is a better solution overall? Not really having any experience with door vs winch (or either individually for that matter) if a winch is a better choice it's probably going to save me some $$ as the door is $500.  It would seem the only advantage a door has over a winch is it's faster (drive it in). 

Yea, I'm going with 10k.

For me it would be a 24 ft ( maybe a 26' if the deal was right ) with  110 lighting ( Inside and outside ) and a winch added . Also, make sure its got brakes on both axles which I am pretty sure it would for that size. 

I MIGHT consider a 22' If I got a screaming deal on a USED one.   And even then only as  long as everything else matched my criteria . But anything shorter than that  I'll pass, regardless of price.

If I'm buying a new one, its 24' or 26' only. Anything bigger than that I would look at a 5th wheel trailer due to overall length,, backing it up would become a pain.

Something else to consider is what your pulling it with . Anything over say a 20' or maybe a 22' , IMO you better have a 2500 or bigger truck.  With good brakes and a rear sway bar, and 10 ply tires helps

I know someone who used to pull a 22' with a single cab 8' bed 1500 truck and I was never comfortable using it that way

[bakerhillpins]

Bill, thanks for the clarification!     I do plan on pulling it with a 14 1500 RAM for which I added all the towing options I could get. It's rated at 9900#.


Anyone out there have comments on placement measurements of the escape door for a 2nd Gen on a 24' trailer? The sales guy felt that Sure-Trac's default would be fine but I'd hate to have it not work out. I'd hate to guess as it's got a lot to do with centering the load. Probably changes with the trailer COG too.  Should I be worrying about this?

[69rtse4spd]

No clue on the door placement, but 24-26 footers would also resale faster if you ever wanted to. On another note does a V-nose really help in the mileage, anybody know.   

[NHCharger]

I'll check my trailer tomorrow. I have a piece of carpet taped to the side wall so when I open the car door to wiggle out I don't have to be concerned about chipping the paint off the edge of the door.

[bakerhillpins]

No clue on the door placement, but 24-26 footers would also resale faster if you ever wanted to. On another note does a V-nose really help in the mileage, anybody know.   

No. You have to do a bit of google searching but the best shape for fuel economy is the teardrop. Take a look at a lot of the new campers forward profile or better yet look up articles on aeronautics (airplane design). The problem with the teardrop is that we want to be able to put a car (or other crap) inside the trailer.  IIRC the biggest drag issue we have is the flat and tall back of the trailer. That's what creates the biggest portion of the CD.

If you're board this might be interesting to you: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-economy/aerodynamics.htm

If you add one of the "bubbles" to the top of the standard box trailers you will reduce the drag (turbulence is drag).  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfTv8Nt-x6o

The V nose actually increases the forward facing surface area and thus drag over the flat front. About the only useful element of a V nose is taking advantage of the space on the tongue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mRNjU0wYgg

If you spend some time digging through youtube there are some decent videos in there.

The drag (CD) is really just a small factor in the equation for us non commercial towers, it mostly boils down to the total weight and not driving like a maniac. 

[bakerhillpins]

After talking with the MFG no one seems to be able to tell me where the default escape door cut is.  Apparently I'm the only person to ask this question. Folks just know and spec it or go with whatever falls off of the back of the truck.   

I have one set of data for where a door hits on a 24' but no info for an actual door cut for a 2nd gen. Anyone out there with an escape door on a 24' and a tape measure?

I'm getting the feeling that I'm just to needy. 

[6pkrtse]

One bad thing I know even about the escape door that it is above the trailer fender wells so it is usually to high up the wall to be able to open the car door anyway since the car door hits the trailer inner fenders. Most cars sit too low. I have never loaded a car & not been able to get out of the drivers door inside my ole junk 28' Hallmark.

[bakerhillpins]

One bad thing I know even about the escape door that it is above the trailer fender wells so it is usually to high up the wall to be able to open the car door anyway since the car door hits the trailer inner fenders. Most cars sit too low. I have never loaded a car & not been able to get out of the drivers door inside my ole junk 28' Hallmark.

I've transported my 69 on several different open spring axle trailers and have not had an issue with the door being obstructed by the wheel fenders. There has always been a few inches of clearance. That' being said each trailer is different. I can always put down 2x runners to raise the car. Wanted to avoid that though.

All of this would have been moot if I had been smart enough to ask this question when a 24' escape equipped unit was on the lot. 

[sccachallenger]

I'm sure your tired of hearing about the escape door by now, but.....
I saw a trailer where the escape door was like a concession door, hinged at the top, flips up with gas struts to support it.
Why would you like this? Gee, I can think of a few reasons, when up it provides shade when it's hot, and shelter when loading/unloading in the rain.
The extra air flow with any escape door is very nice on a hot day.
Good luck!

[Troy]

I'm sure your tired of hearing about the escape door by now, but.....
I saw a trailer where the escape door was like a concession door, hinged at the top, flips up with gas struts to support it.
Why would you like this? Gee, I can think of a few reasons, when up it provides shade when it's hot, and shelter when loading/unloading in the rain.
The extra air flow with any escape door is very nice on a hot day.
Good luck!

I had one - and actual concession door. The extra weight is a lot more than you'd think! You need extra steel beams in place to hold the weight of the door so I'm sure it also adds a fair amount to the price. (I got mine used so I don't have exact figures other than the weight.) That style but with a smaller door may not be as bad.

My car doors clear my open trailer detachable fenders fine. Not sure if I have tried opening them with the fenders mounted. It does seem common that enclosed trailer fenders seem to cause problems. Taller tires? Maybe they are able to mount the floor lower? Or maybe open trailers tend to have a higher floor and steeper ramps for some reason? I'd start with centering the car in the trailer (or a box the size of the trailer) and measuring where the car door would be. Remember the door moves forward so the back doesn't have to align with the back of the door but the front needs to be at least aligned or farther forward. You'll really only be able to adjust the car 1-2' in either direction. Even with a 24' trailer you don't want the bulk of the car in front of the axles - especially if you go in front first as all that engine weight is going to end up on the tongue.

Troy

[bakerhillpins]

I had one - and actual concession door. The extra weight is a lot more than you'd think! You need extra steel beams in place to hold the weight of the door so I'm sure it also adds a fair amount to the price. (I got mine used so I don't have exact figures other than the weight.) That style but with a smaller door may not be as bad.

I seriously considered asking about it but figured the costs would go up and couldn't justify it. So I went with a standard door.

My car doors clear my open trailer detachable fenders fine. Not sure if I have tried opening them with the fenders mounted. It does seem common that enclosed trailer fenders seem to cause problems. Taller tires? Maybe they are able to mount the floor lower? Or maybe open trailers tend to have a higher floor and steeper ramps for some reason? I'd start with centering the car in the trailer (or a box the size of the trailer) and measuring where the car door would be. Remember the door moves forward so the back doesn't have to align with the back of the door but the front needs to be at least aligned or farther forward. You'll really only be able to adjust the car 1-2' in either direction. Even with a 24' trailer you don't want the bulk of the car in front of the axles - especially if you go in front first as all that engine weight is going to end up on the tongue.

Troy

I did almost that... I went out and measured from the top of the latching door jamb (b pillar? which isn't really there on a hardtop.. so  ) to the rear of the car. I got ~7'4" to the lip of the trunk and if you add in the bumper it's probably just over 7'6".  Most feedback I got was charger sat ~1' off the rear door. So that puts the door swing at about 8'6" from the back of the unit. playing CSI with photos of 24' units they had 6 lengths of aluminum skin on the outside (4' sheets) and 24" on center roof bows and standard sheet goods (also 4') on interior walls. So that gave me a reasonable guess at the standard location for the door at about 8' + say about 3-4".    But you have to subtract the dept of the rear door too. So flying by the seat of my pants I'm going with about 8'2" +/- off the rear door. Which should be fine. I'll post back when I pick it up and see how close I got it.

Thanks, for the feedback everyone.   

[69rtse4spd]

No clue on the door placement, but 24-26 footers would also resale faster if you ever wanted to. On another note does a V-nose really help in the mileage, anybody know.   

No. You have to do a bit of google searching but the best shape for fuel economy is the teardrop. Take a look at a lot of the new campers forward profile or better yet look up articles on aeronautics (airplane design). The problem with the teardrop is that we want to be able to put a car (or other crap) inside the trailer.  IIRC the biggest drag issue we have is the flat and tall back of the trailer. That's what creates the biggest portion of the CD.

If you're board this might be interesting to you: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/fuel-efficiency/fuel-economy/aerodynamics.htm

If you add one of the "bubbles" to the top of the standard box trailers you will reduce the drag (turbulence is drag).  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfTv8Nt-x6o

The V nose actually increases the forward facing surface area and thus drag over the flat front. About the only useful element of a V nose is taking advantage of the space on the tongue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mRNjU0wYgg

If you spend some time digging through youtube there are some decent videos in there.

The drag (CD) is really just a small factor in the equation for us non commercial towers, it mostly boils down to the total weight and not driving like a maniac. 

Thanks.